Checklist for Engine Swap

[englishbay]

Hi everyone, my engine has a suspected spun rod, so will be swapping with another engine, same part number, but potentially different revision (06E-100-038-UE) that has around 50k km on it. So am making a list of items to replace while we have the chance. Would like to see if there is anything else I should consider.

1. Replace Thermostat {ecstuning $54}
2. Replace Water Pump {ecstuning $185}
3. Replace Coolant Tube {Coolant Pipe ecstuning $126}
4. Replace PCV Valve {PVC Kit ecstuning $162}
5. Replace Engine Mounts ( installing the 034 Street Density ones )
6. Install Mertop Headers
7. Install Right angle 02 sensor (two Vibrant 11619 J-Style Oxygen Sensor )
8. Change Supercharger Oil
9. Carbon Clean (will be checking the valves )
10. Replace Spark Plugs
11. Rear Main Seal
12. Inspect and clean MAP sensors
13. Replace all pulleys (including tensioners)
14. Replace Head Gaskets

Not sure about these ones

1. Replace Coil Packs with RS ones

Decided not to do these items

1. Replace Timing chain and guard (not needed with a new engine) {Kit from ecstuning $613 USD}
2. Replace Timing Chain Tensioner, decided too much labour
3. Injectors {set of six $926.04 USD} can be cleaned instead of getting new ones for $45 each

What does everyone think?

[Tidi0x]

ill be honest, all that stuff seems like a big waste of money on an engine with 50k KM's on it.... PCV's are not a problem until you get thousands of miles out or they show themselves to be a problem; my original one went tits up at 80k Miles.

on top of that, if you swap out all those parts that did not have an issue previously you might end up chasing down a headach's worth of issues when you go to start up for the first time and you forgot to do something or didn't do it right.... if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I would just do the stuff you cannot normally do easily without the "engine out" pulleys, headers, mounts, front and rear seals. get the engine in and drive it; I would only pop off the supercharger for "Maintenance" if you intended to put in performance parts that you have to pull the supercharger.

[LocoLobo]

Are you going to pull engine & Transmission, or just engine? How much time are you expecting this to take to complete?

[englishbay]

ill be honest, all that stuff seems like a big waste of money on an engine with 50k KM's on it....

Thanks Tidi0x, this is the kind of advice I need, yes the milage on the used engine is pretty low so maybe I should hold off on doing so much.

[englishbay]

Are you going to pull engine & Transmission, or just engine? How much time are you expecting this to take to complete?

There are no issues with the transmission, so only looking at pulling the engine. The book time is 26 hours to replace long block. Hopefully this week or next will have a list of the additional items so can get a better idea of the time. The dealer here is doing the work (they are at $160 per hour), and their mechanic is not hourly so I can negotiate the install cost. Up to now their quote based on the total dollars and hourly rate is more than 26 hours.

[dubgli]

I'm more like your original mindset.

Especially after an engine failure, I'd do a lot of the items on the replacement motor for peace of mind. It's nice to know your replacement engine is in good shape instead of assuming it's in good shape.

Maybe not everything in your list, but I'd knock the pcv, water pump, thermo out of the way. If you're serious about headers and mounts then I would do those as well.

The only thing on your main list I might skip is replacing all the pulleys unless you see that they're damaged.

- dubgli

[Morritse]

Those o2 spacers will NOT fit, get lower profile ones.

[englishbay]

Those o2 spacers will NOT fit, get lower profile ones.

Yikes I got those based on the XLR8 reply in another thread. You wouldn't happen to have a Vibrant part number by any chance.

[m1k3d3]

ill be honest, all that stuff seems like a big waste of money on an engine with 50k KM's on it....

Thanks Tidi0x, this is the kind of advice I need, yes the milage on the used engine is pretty low so maybe I should hold off on doing so much.

I couldn't disagree more. If you're going through the hassle of an entire engine swap I would absolutely replace parts that are known to fail prematurely while you're in there. My waterpump and tstat went around 40k miles. I replaced the PCV while I was in there.

Do it once and do it right or pay to do it twice.

[byront8]

Are you going to pull engine & Transmission, or just engine? How much time are you expecting this to take to complete?

I did this recently on my S4 - engine and trans out was 8hours.

I spent around 20 doing all the work on the engine whilst it was out (mainly learning and going slow).

Engine in was 6 hours.

For me ignore the head gasket, you’d be splitting the heads off and then you should really do all the chains etc.

Headers, spacers (not need of you tune via 034), rear main seal, engine mounts, carbon clean, all pulleys and tensioners, pcv, t-stat, water pump - this is what I ended up doing and for piece of mind as I didn’t know the engine history was worth it in my eyes.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[englishbay]

Yikes I got those based on the XLR8 reply in another thread. You wouldn't happen to have a Vibrant part number by any chance.

Ordered these ones from Rakuten based on this thread. Hopefully these work. But I do have the APR tune and can get the test pipe file. We still need to have the sensors working don't we?

[Tidi0x]

I couldn't disagree more. If you're going through the hassle of an entire engine swap I would absolutely replace parts that are known to fail prematurely while you're in there. My waterpump and tstat went around 40k miles. I replaced the PCV while I was in there.

Do it once and do it right or pay to do it twice.

I will side with you somewhat on this because I though he was doing the swap himself initially, and a PCV replacement is a very quick and easy "engine in" job.

my only rebuttal to my originally statement is that if he is using a newer revision of the engine it should see the later part revisions and the effort would be redundant.

OP you should double check the revision code or manufacture date on that engine, the newest version I can find is L, but yours is labeled UE.

[englishbay]

OP you should double check the revision code or manufacture date on that engine, the newest version I can find is L, but yours is labeled UE.

They are telling me that the engine is from a 2016 S5.

[chi123]

If you're going to do all the work of replacing the head gaskets, I would do the timing chain and tensioners since that only requires the removal of the back cover. Or at least do the upper tensioners since they're known to fail. You'll have to remove them to remove the head to replace the gasket.

[englishbay]

would do the timing chain and tensioners since that only requires the removal of the back cover.

I was quoted $3k CDN to do the timing chains with the engine out, but there is a new development now. The engine that was received has some issues, so needs to returned and I am back to considering a new engine or a used one. New engines now for my 2015 are pretty bare, the dealership is not even certain if they include timing chains or not. There are not many used engines in my area and not looking forward to having one sent up from the USA.

[Morritse]

I was quoted $3k CDN to do the timing chains with the engine out, but there is a new development now. The engine that was received has some issues, so needs to returned and I am back to considering a new engine or a used one. New engines now for my 2015 are pretty bare, the dealership is not even certain if they include timing chains or not. There are not many used engines in my area and not looking forward to having one sent up from the USA.

Hit up landfill on here. :)