RS3 downpipe install

[ReallySlow3]

Watched a few videos for a DP install on the rs and it seems pretty easy tbh, ive gotten some quotes for around 900 for the install alone but i honestly think thats a crazy amount. Do you guys think it can be done without the need of a "professional"? If so any pointers or info would be greatly appreciated.

[PTeezy]

As long as you have an exhaust clamp for the driveshaft removal. Shouldn't that be difficult.

[TheContrarian]

https://youtu.be/QHLCDAWdLzw

[jd_rs3]

Just did another a few weeks back. Not bad with lift but will be a lot of work on your back. Hit me up if you have any questions. As I discuss in that video, one of the hardest parts is getting that damn top heat shield bolt off. Besides that not too bad.

Few suggestions:


Don't break your driveshaft.

Make sure you loosen subframe bolts enough so you can get the stock dp out.

Don't break your driveshaft.

Soak o2 sensors with pb blaster

Make sure to re-tighten sub frame bolts adequately

Have someone to help

Don't break your driveshaft





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[AudiRS#]

Just did another a few weeks back. Not bad with lift but will be a lot of work on your back. Hit me up if you have any questions. As I discuss in that video, one of the hardest parts is getting that damn top heat shield bolt off. Besides that not too bad.

Few suggestions:


Don't break your driveshaft.

Make sure you loosen subframe bolts enough so you can get the stock dp out.

Don't break your driveshaft.

Soak o2 sensors with pb blaster

Make sure to re-tighten sub frame bolts adequately

Have someone to help

Don't break your driveshaft





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So first thing he is supposed to do is break the drive shaft? Haha good post.


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[rodacollier]

I think $900 is fair in my area for that job, and would include a realignment.

I only have race ramps for work in my garage so I would never attempt it myself.

I noticed the Bull-X downpipe says

“Does not require you to remove heat shield over the bevel box”

Is that BS or a real time / frustration savings?

[jd_rs3]

If you want to get the stock dp out, that heat shield comes off period

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[ReallySlow3]

Thank you guys really appreciate the info

[AlexLP]

Hello I recently did this install on my 2018 TTRS and I’m wondering if anyone else is getting a sound when letting off the gas. It sounds as if something is scraping in a rotation so the slower speed the car is going the slower the scraping happens.


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[jd_rs3]

Hello I recently did this install on my 2018 TTRS and I’m wondering if anyone else is getting a sound when letting off the gas. It sounds as if something is scraping in a rotation so the slower speed the car is going the slower the scraping happens.


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Very common after downpipe install.

2 things to check.

1. Heat shields get bent, so make sure none are making contact anywhere they shouldn't.

2. Both of the bolts that hold the steering rack in place, as well as subframe bolts need to be tightened. I recommend re-torquing all of your subframe bolts.

[AlexLP]

Very common after downpipe install.

2 things to check.

1. Heat shields get bent, so make sure none are making contact anywhere they shouldn't.

2. Both of the bolts that hold the steering rack in place, as well as subframe bolts need to be tightened. I recommend re-torquing all of your subframe bolts.

I figured out what it was. It appeared to be the heat shield between the exhaust and drive shaft rubbing against the drive shaft. I bent a part of of back and it stopped doing it completely then came back a couple days later and now its the back part of the heat shield on a bigger spot and its leaving marks on the drive shaft. I have the IE catted downpipe/midpipe. Just bent that part downwards and i hope it doesn’t start doing it again. If so, what do you think I should do? There isnt much clearance between the drive shaft and the exhaust so i cant bend the heat shield down as much. Worried it will bend back up with the heat since the heat shield is basically touching the exhaust.


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[jd_rs3]

I figured out what it was. It appeared to be the heat shield between the exhaust and drive shaft rubbing against the drive shaft. I bent a part of of back and it stopped doing it completely then came back a couple days later and now its the back part of the heat shield on a bigger spot and its leaving marks on the drive shaft. I have the IE catted downpipe/midpipe. Just bent that part downwards and i hope it doesn’t start doing it again. If so, what do you think I should do? There isnt much clearance between the drive shaft and the exhaust so i cant bend the heat shield down as much. Worried it will bend back up with the heat since the heat shield is basically touching the exhaust.


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Are you positive it is the heat shield? I assume so, since it is making a mark. I recently installed the IE catted DP and there was plenty of clearance. We experienced a similar noise and assumed heat shields, but it ended up being the 2 forward subframe bolts that mount to the steering rack that needed torqued again. So make sure all of those bolts are torqued *again*. Beyond that, pics could help and maybe some others have suggestions. If the heat shields are bent where they should be, they should not be making contact. Is the noise worse when you are turning?

[AlexLP]

Are you positive it is the heat shield? I assume so, since it is making a mark. I recently installed the IE catted DP and there was plenty of clearance. We experienced a similar noise and assumed heat shields, but it ended up being the 2 forward subframe bolts that mount to the steering rack that needed torqued again. So make sure all of those bolts are torqued *again*. Beyond that, pics could help and maybe some others have suggestions. If the heat shields are bent where they should be, they should not be making contact. Is the noise worse when you are turning?

Got it all figured out. Took it to my local exhaust shop and they adjusted the pipes and cat to the correct spots which resulted in more clearance which leaves the heat shield lower and problem solved. I currently have another problem now which is throwing these codes. IMG_2404.jpg
When I go and delete the codes the only one that stays is this one until i turn the car on again and the rest pop up again. IMG_2405.jpg
Even after I replaced the rear oxygen sensor and harness extension. Reason for replacing is because they were routed wrong and got extreme heat from the downpipe. Have new ones in place and still having problems with codes coming up. Really don’t want to take it to audi and have them make a big deal about it since it is aftermarket. If anyone can help or give me an idea of what it might be I’d appreciate it.


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[jd_rs3]

I'm wondering if your o2 sensors are swapped? Wrong wire going to wrong sensor? Are you sure both plugs are plugged in tightly to the connectors behind the intake? I think this is the upstream sensor and the important one.

[AlexLP]

I'm wondering if your o2 sensors are swapped?

I checked that as well and noticed it would be impossible to swap them since the connectors are not the same.


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[jd_rs3]

My best guess is you need a new sensor.

You can check resistance but I'm not sure what it should be? 8ohms maybe?

[tegxsi]

Did you have damaged wires on the o2 harness?
Have you checked the fuses? It should be fuse F8 for the o2 heater.

[Cloud IX]

For those who have done it, which part of the drive shalf should I be worried about? I have the removal tool but want to know which part of the shaft I should be extra careful around.

Thanks!

[Razzaa]

For those who have done it, which part of the drive shalf should I be worried about? I have the removal tool but want to know which part of the shaft I should be extra careful around.

Thanks!

All of it. Get a second pair of hands and keep it straight when you remove it


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[jd_rs3]

Make sure the joint does not compress or separate too much.

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[Cloud IX]

Make sure the joint does not compress or separate too much.

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That's what I was thinking. I mean, most of it is a pretty sturdy solid piece. Appreciate the response.

[AlexLP]

Did you have damaged wires on the o2 harness?
Have you checked the fuses? It should be fuse F8 for the o2 heater.

Been getting the idea that it might be a fuse since the o2 sensor and harness wires were literally melted. But the thing that confuses me is that when I took it to the dealer they checked it out and said both the sensors were working.


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[AlexLP]

Been getting the idea that it might be a fuse since the o2 sensor and harness wires were literally melted. But the thing that confuses me is that when I took it to the dealer they checked it out and said both the sensors were working.


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I assume the fuse is bad since the metal wire on the inside is disconnected or snapped unlike the other fuses which are together. Am I right? This is my first time pulling a fuse.IMG_2451.jpg


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[RaudiRS3]

Correctomundo, that is a blown fuse.

[jd_rs3]

I assume the fuse is bad since the metal wire on the inside is disconnected or snapped unlike the other fuses which are together. Am I right? This is my first time pulling a fuse.IMG_2451.jpg


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Great find on the fuse. Your Audi dealer techs are braindead idiots if they told you the sensors were working and didn't check/find that fuse. Absolutely fking idiots. It is 2020. Dealerships STILL haven't figured it out huh? Just glad I do all this work myself.

[WmRS3]

Dealers suck. Can someone post a picture of where the dp connects to the turbo with shields and everything installed? I need to add air fuel sensor port in my iroz dp and want to see where I should weld it in clearance wise. Thanks in advance.

[AlexLP]

Great find on the fuse. Your Audi dealer techs are braindead idiots if they told you the sensors were working and didn't check/find that fuse. Absolutely fking idiots. It is 2020. Dealerships STILL haven't figured it out huh? Just glad I do all this work myself.

I thought the exact same thing. They charged me $140 for a diagnosis and didn’t even do their job. How are they going to tell me that the sensors are working and getting power when the fuse is blown. Should I call and complain? Last time I take my car to that dealership for sure.


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[jd_rs3]

Sure, call and complain. It won't change anything and they won't do anything (such as refund your money). Cheap lesson learned - don't go back there. Good luck!