Disable Bulb Monitoring

[SinCio]

Is it possible? I assume through VCDS, but I can't find any information about what coding it requires.

[Kriskrk]

Don't think it can be done but read you could change bulb values via vcds, where and what to, I don't know.
C6 is very fussy for bulbs and difficult to deal with, when it comes them.

I was after same info but quickly been put off.

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[SinCio]

So to run LEDs I'd need to put in resistors? I tried with one of those canbus modules that supposedly cancel out errors but to no avail.

Unfortunately I put the LEDs on the flash to pass bulbs and now I have to remove the bumper to add the resistors if that would work.

[Kriskrk]

I have leds in each indicator, front fogs, reverse and rear number plate.
Front fogs wiring I managed to access from front wheel wells. Unbolted whole front part of wheel well lining and moved it away. All with wheels still on but I would advise to remove the alloys for less wiggle.
Cables have been located in the loom, spliced, resistors installed and secured to metal body parts. They will hear up so need to do that on screws/bolts.

Same done on front indicators and reverse lights and no dash errors.

For some reason, in rear indicators I didn't had to use resistors and still have no error.

Unfortunately, all above help with dash errors only but not with bulb check signal being sent to each bulb, every 30seconds, in sequence. So now, I drive around like a mini disco, strobing around.
Stopped being annoyed by it too much and had no problem with MOT. Probably because I was using friendly garage to make sure it passes with all I have done on the car (i.e. no dpf ect).

Bottom line, unless someone well experienced with vcds can advise on value change in bulb codings to adapt led bulbs, you might end up like me with above strobing

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[SinCio]

Thanks Kriskrk.

How are the resistors supposed to be wired? I just finished trying to install some 50w 6RJ and failed. Frustration took hold of me and I ended just splicing in the old H11 bulb and fastening that inside the bumper (heat taken into consideration). So, instead of strobing I now have very ghetto underglow (not really noticeable) but no fog light warning. We'll see how long the bulb will last half exposed.

The H7s I put in the FTP bulbs strobe and I only get a warning if I leave them on for more than 20s. I might en up doing the same thing again and splicing in a bulb to eat up the flashing and error. Not sure how soon that will happen though.

[-=zipp=-]

Or you can get the expensive modules from 7-lights to eliminate the strobing.

[Henning2710]

Or you can get the expensive modules from 7-lights to eliminate the strobing.

I talked to the guy who designed this. Sounds like it works well. He and his business partner both have C6 A6s and use them successfully. I ordered a set of four, two for the backup lights and two for fog lights. Haven't installed them yet, since they will be sent with my upgraded/refurbished headlight units when they're done. Here's the link.

[SinCio]

Do the modules from 7-Lights only correct strobing or do they also cancel out errors?

Also, I'm seeing that the module goes in parallel to the bulb, is it the same for resistors?

[Henning2710]

Do the modules from 7-Lights only correct strobing or do they also cancel out errors?

I was wondering that myself, but never asked. Since my headlight units should be delivered to them this week I'm sure I'll be in touch with him and I'll try to remember to ask about that.

Also, I'm seeing that the module goes in parallel to the bulb, is it the same for resistors?

Yes. Here's also a great instructable on that issue. They make a good point about merging the wires instead of using T-taps.

[SinCio]

Henning, In the diagrams you shared with me, I can see which wire supplies power to the main beam (FTP in my case, where I've placed an H7 LED bulb). Should I be able to splice the resistor to that wire and ground in the harness outside of the headlight instead of inside and still have the code erased? I'm thinking it shouldn't make a difference, but after my last failed attempt at getting the resistor to work I'm no longer as confident.

[Henning2710]

Henning, In the diagrams you shared with me, I can see which wire supplies power to the main beam (FTP in my case, where I've placed an H7 LED bulb). Should I be able to splice the resistor to that wire and ground in the harness outside of the headlight instead of inside and still have the code erased? I'm thinking it shouldn't make a difference, but after my last failed attempt at getting the resistor to work I'm no longer as confident.

I would go as close to the bulb as I can with the splice, but the C6 is generally very finicky about anything that has to do with the bulbs (and electronics in general), so there is never any guarantee it'll work out, even with a quality resistor. That's the whole reason I decided not to do anything with the lights myself on this vehicle and just leave it to the experts.