How to Build an RSQ5

[a=m/s2]

Good morning. I bought an S Q5, a B8.5. Love to the car stock, But I want a few more horse and torque so I added APR stage one and an open air breather. Great addition, couldn’t be happier.

I’ve been asking about break upgrades, peoples experience with stage two, etc., but today I saw an RS 7. After reviewing the comments online about the car and seeing the package, it occurred to me that I didn’t wanna piece the car’s performance together, but wanted to build against the concept of an entire package. There’s no such thing as an RS Q5. However, that’s what I want to build.

That said, I’d really like to know what the community thinks an RS Q5 should look like and what an integrated performance package would look like including any details you all could offer: brakes, suspension, transmission, engine mods, etc. my goal is to come up with a top line build design and put one together to be a Herculean performance car. Granted, this is an SUV so it will always have heavyweight bias. That written, being an suv, it has the perfect amount of space utility for me so a smaller car just won’t do.

Open to any ideas right down to the wheels and lowering it a bit. I want it to be aggressive without being an overstated rally Group B matchbox.

I look forward to your comments all.

[WV_B8S4]

3.0T to 4.0TT/2.9TT swap, CCB's, coilovers, and some carbon fiber accoutrements... Thats basically the S>RS formula

[a=m/s2]

Ok. It’s a start. Practically speaking, a swap to the 4.0 is no dice. By the time I get there, I’m thinking I could pickup a used RS5 for near the same money with selling my car.

Stage 2 is going to take engine most of the way. What about breaks - Brembo Big? Coil overs - ok. Which? Cross car beam (CCB) - how do I spec it?

I am a 1 month newbie with little background knowledge.

[RoofRails]

So here is what I would suggest for a RS level upgrade.

ECU: APR Ultra Charger STg2 dual pulley.

TCU: HP tuners/BG SQ5 ZF8 tune (shifting @ 7200 @ WOT). Make Drive more exciting(less boring) but not over the top and set up Sport and Manual mode for maximum fun. Sport mode hanging revs between 2 and 3K before the upshift during normal throttle inputs and Manual mode set up with a 7400K redline and the auto downshift turned down for a truly manual experience. This is how my tune is set up and it's extremely fun drive.

Heat exchanger: Merc Racing or any of the other major Manufacturers out there if you want it to be shiny and silver.

Grill: E Bay RS with the Quatro bage on the lower portion

Exhaust: Gutted stock cats or test pipes with a AWE touring (hit up Mops) or even stock exhaust. Either one needs to exit in a pair of large oval tips centered in where the daul tips would go in a SQ5 rear valance. I can't remember if you own a SQ5 or a 3.0T Q5.

Suspension: Bilstien PSS10 coilover kit (hit up Mops).

Supporting suspension mods: 034 rear sway, 034 tranny inserts and 034 aluminum X-Brace Chassis reinforcement.

Brakes: Voshmods upgrade with Cadillac CTV (Brembo) and Gyrodisc rotors. Look up Ignition tubes build thread to get the skinny on these, it's the last video he just did. Paint the calipers the same anthracite gray that Audi uses on all its RS calipers and add a the RS/Audi Sport decal. The one in the attached picture is a full carbon ceramic but you don't need to spend that kinda money. You get your choice of paint color with the Vosh Mods set up and it's probably the best bang for the buck going in a BBK.

Rims: hang out on the RS classified pages and scope up a set of used OEM RS rims. Or find something else you love and get it 10 inch wide so you can run a 295 tire.

You already have APR STG 1 so you may as well stick to APR unless there is something about I.E or one of the others you have to have. But once the Cats are out of the way a APR Ultracharger STG 2 is going to give you just about all the power your going to get before you start running into having to blend Ethonal or run Meth injection.

Ok. It’s a start. Practically speaking, a swap to the 4.0 is no dice. By the time I get there, I’m thinking I could pickup a used RS5 for near the same money with selling my car.

Stage 2 is going to take engine most of the way. What about breaks - Brembo Big? Coil overs - ok. Which? Cross car beam (CCB) - how do I spec it?

I am a 1 month newbie with little background knowledge.

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[SlingshotSQ5]

If it's just cosmetics.... exhaust, tune, grill and change the caliper plates.

There are also RS badged shifters but if you go that deep, you need the seats and steering wheel badges also.
Meh.

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[Silver_Bullet]

RoofRails nailed it for the mods. But I’d also keep the Macan in mind, built on the Q5 frame, just everything upgraded for improved performance. You can also tune the 3.6 Turbo for more power. With the Macan you are starting from a higher point so maybe less mods to get To the desired performance levels.

[scottst]

RoofRails nailed it for the mods. But I’d also keep the Macan in mind, built on the Q5 frame, just everything upgraded for improved performance. You can also tune the 3.6 Turbo for more power. With the Macan you are starting from a higher point so maybe less mods to get To the desired performance levels.

Wife drives a Macan S. Only thing it has over the Audi is comfort and badge. The Turbo is the place to start and frankly it would need to be turned to be significantly faster than the sq stock. The SC engine is way more fun and more safely tunable.

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[SIQ5]

Agree with RoofRails except on the brakes. That all depends if you are going hard on the track. If not, just get high temp pads and fluid, SS brake lines.

See my build.

[SIQ5]

If it's just cosmetics.... exhaust, tune, grill and change the caliper plates.

There are also RS badged shifters but if you go that deep, you need the seats and steering wheel badges also.
Meh.

20200616_194945.jpeg20200616_194918.jpeg20200616_194904.jpeg20200616_194853.jpeg

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Also agree here exhaust, grill, not so much caliper plates. Plus intake, ECU flash, throttle body, heat exchanger, test pipes, HF CATs. I thought about going for the RS badging but I prefer the sleeper look. The soccer moms in their Macan S's never see me coming.

[krwalkman]

If I wanted to go to an RSQ5 style build I would look for a way to make it a wide body style as well. There are a couple companies that make fender additions to make them wider. Those companies also have what you could call RSQ5 style front and rear bumpers, but I think those are ugly and clearly look to be cheap aftermarket bumpers like you'd put on a civic.

https://fourtitude.com/news/aftermar...rom-caractere/

[Silver_Bullet]

RSQ8 Nürburgring 7:42 SUV record:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ANbhV6j05ys

This is where the big boys play. Not sure if Audi has ever run the SQ5 out there, probably doesn’t have the brakes and cooling. Musk trashed his car there, it needed a flatbed after failure.

A real RSQ5 will be able to survive the ‘Ring.

[CHEFS6]

Personally for an RS Q5 build (which I plan on doing eventually) I would keep the 3.0. I think swapping engines is a bit overkill and honestly lame (Think "fake it till you make it") because why put a 4.0 engine in it?
Anyway, the only front bumper that is clean looking to me is the XenonUK 'RS' style SQ5 front bumper conversion. I ran their 'RS' style bumper conversion for my 2017 S6 and honestly it looks very similar to that (which im stoked about haha). The XUK front bumper coupled with the Gloss Black MTM 2018 SQ5 RS rear bumper will give as close to an OEM+ RS style look for the Q5. Of curse you would need to get it retrofitted from a very prestigious body shop as it will probably take a lot of work, but it can be done.
Its been proven that full weight SQ5's can get low 11's in the 1/4 which is Stage 2 S6, Stock RS7 times. So Pulleys, tune, E40, HX, Downpipes, Throttle body, Ported blower for a DD Compact SUV is plenty fast. (And again, puts you at "RS level performance")

My 2017 S6 with XUK RS front bumper
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An SQ5 with XUK RS front bumper
20200602_235837.jpg

xuk rs5 2.JPG

MTM 2018+ (B9) RS rear bumper
20200619_161736.jpg

[SIQ5]

I think Chef brings up a good point. Are you looking for RS performance or RS performance and styling?

[SIQ5]

Are you trying to do this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAo1YkH0ILU

[RoofRails]

When I posted something about my brake upgrade someone responded that I lost surface area in my rotors with them being drilled and slotted and I responded with I'm not trying to run a 7:42 around the Nurburgring. I wasn't sure if anyone else had seen this video and picked up on that little nugget LOL!

That driver was putting in some serious work getting that pig around the ring !

RSQ8 Nürburgring 7:42 SUV record:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ANbhV6j05ys

This is where the big boys play. Not sure if Audi has ever run the SQ5 out there, probably doesn’t have the brakes and cooling. Musk trashed his car there, it needed a flatbed after failure.

A real RSQ5 will be able to survive the ‘Ring.

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[SIQ5]

As I understand it getting drilled rotors is more cosmetic and for people that are not pushing the brakes hard. It looks cool but main downside is chance of cracking, rotor failure under stress. For everyday driving I am sure they are fine. Slotted reduce that failure risk and help disperse the gas that can build up between pad and rotor just as drilled can. This hurts braking performance.

I would be interested if there have been studies of having a drilled or slotted rotor (helps disperse gas) vs a solid rotor (more surface area) and which is better under which conditions.

All that being said, if/when I upgrade my brakes I will probably go slotted because I like the look and do not race on the track but once a year or less. When I did I got my stock pads literally red hot and heard all sorts of creaking and moaning as the system cooled once I finished my last run. Luckily, I never boiled my stock fluid but will certainly change pads, fluid, lines to help deal with the higher temps before I go again.

[a=m/s2]

Gorgeous. I do wish didn’t buy the Daytona Monsoon barf green/gray. Black or white would be so more fitting.

You have a great looking rig.

[a=m/s2]

When I posted something about my brake upgrade someone responded that I lost surface area in my rotors with them being drilled and slotted and I responded with I'm not trying to run a 7:42 around the Nurburgring. I wasn't sure if anyone else had seen this video and picked up on that little nugget LOL!

That driver was putting in some serious work getting that pig around the ring !


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An SQ5 did 7:42? Do you have the link to post?

[a=m/s2]

Never mind. See it was an RSQ8. Still, that’s a Cayenne Turbo S For all intents and purposes. And 7:42 is quite a feat.

[RoofRails]

No, it was a RSQ8. The link is a few posts above this one.

An SQ5 did 7:42? Do you have the link to post?

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[a=m/s2]

RS performance first. Bumpers and grills will be secondary.

[SIQ5]

Gorgeous. I do wish didn’t buy the Daytona Monsoon barf green/gray. Black or white would be so more fitting.

You have a great looking rig.

If that was for me, thanks. If not, thanks.

[MSq5]

RS performance first. Bumpers and grills will be secondary.

Then read the posts of BG SQ5. He has the quickest SQ5, to my knowledge, and has progressively tested and tuned each modification to optimize results. He’s been very transparent about his journey to be the quickest on this platform. I think he is right on the cusp of breaking into the 10s.

[SIQ5]

Then read the posts of BG SQ5. He has the quickest SQ5, to my knowledge, and has progressively tested and tuned each modification to optimize results. He’s been very transparent about his journey to be the quickest on this platform. I think he is right on the cusp of breaking into the 10s.

yes.

[a=m/s2]

Priced out about everything mentioned (sways, HX, Bilsteins, Phase 2, etc.) Looking at about $10k all in if I have the work done by a shop (which is about the only option as I am not very mechanically capable). This gives me pause for a decision: invest in a 5yo, 100k car knowing I’ll keep it until the motor/tranny die (and probably replace, keeping the car in perpetuity), or make a couple more basic mods and just enjoy. Not sure. But your ideas/suggestions have been very helpful. I am a boatload more knowledgeable now about tuning and modding than when I started and I know I’ll keep doing this until I am quite ancient. Full disclosure: I’m 51yo and just starting - great later-in-life hobby. With your support I’m having a blast.

Next up, tranny tune.

Thanks all.

[a=m/s2]

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

- - - Updated - - -

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

[scottst]

Two thoughts:
1) If you're asking for really subtle lowering, you may want to look into the ROW SQ5 springs. FWIW I now have a set in my garage. Considering swapping them in depending on how I end up liking the current H&R setup I'm running. The H&R setup looks amazing but is a bit low for my liking. And, I can't stop tinkering with my cars. So, ROW SQ5 plus the Bilstein B8s (which I love) may be next.
2) I test drove a new RS5 Sportback a couple months ago, thinking I might make the swap. Yes, they are fast, but frankly I feel like my Stage1 SQ5 with the new suspension setup is comparable from a driving fun POV. Lots of other things I prefer with the b8.5 SQ5 that I won't get into here.

Net: you don't need to be running 10s to be comparable to some of the RS cars.

[MSq5]

Priced out about everything mentioned (sways, HX, Bilsteins, Phase 2, etc.) Looking at about $10k all in if I have the work done by a shop (which is about the only option as I am not very mechanically capable). This gives me pause for a decision: invest in a 5yo, 100k car knowing I’ll keep it until the motor/tranny die (and probably replace, keeping the car in perpetuity), or make a couple more basic mods and just enjoy. Not sure. But your ideas/suggestions have been very helpful. I am a boatload more knowledgeable now about tuning and modding than when I started and I know I’ll keep doing this until I am quite ancient. Full disclosure: I’m 51yo and just starting - great later-in-life hobby. With your support I’m having a blast.

Next up, tranny tune.

Thanks all.

FWIW: I turned 70 back in April. Always had “hot cars” of some sort. I usually buy new and keep the car about 8-10 years until maintenance costs start getting too high. Difference is that I have my own shop and personally do all mods, maintenance and upkeep. My cars never see a dealer after the sale unless there is a mandatory safety recall. I guess I’d return for a warranty claim, but don’t recall ever having had a covered problem during the warranty period.

If you have to make choices in the overall modification plan you can always stick with the stock suspension (replacing struts and shocks as needed) and focus on power. Any good shop can do the HX upgrade and pulley upgrade at the same time while the bumper cover and grill are off and front pulled forward in service position. That keeps labor costs (time) to a minimum. Don’t let them double charge per flat rate manual for service position twice, as the crank and/or s/c pulleys are already exposed when doing the HX upgrade.

Yes, do the ZF8 tune. You are leaving a lot of power untapped at your stock 6,300 rpm upshift points. You’ll make good power to at least 7,000 rpm. Some would say 7,200 if you keep IATs under control. Maybe even up to 7,400 in Manual mode. (Potentially helpful to run out the 5>6 shift in the quarter mile, for example). And, AMAX can be made much stronger with higher stall speed and higher gear availability, among other enhancements such as shift pressures and timing in Sport and Manual modes.

[RoofRails]

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

- - - Updated - - -

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

DO NOT EVER add up all the mods you want prior to buying them ! Do like the rest of us crazy enthusiast do and pick off mods as you can afford them and enjoy each incremental step along the way. If anyone asks you how much you have invested in your Audi tell them you dont know and look at them in a way that will insure they never ask you that again ! This game is not about return on your dollar.

The European SQ5 springs lower our North American vehicles about 1 inchand that's about the minimum drop you can do. I went with Vogtland springs because amongst the aftermarket non OEM options it was the most subtle drop. It's a little less then 1.5 inches all the way around. They ride very nice with the stock shocks and give it a aggressive look without sacrificing ride quality.

As far as performance benefits you are lowering your center of gravity so you will feel that your vehicle is hanging in there better around corners.

I'm going to double down on the BG SQ5/HP tuners ZF8 TCU tune being your next mod.

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

- - - Updated - - -

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

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[SIQ5]

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

- - - Updated - - -

One other question: can I lower the platform about .5”? If so, how is it done. I think with a lowered stance and some aggressive yet tasteful rims, I can create the “prowling” look I want.

Also, any performance/handling implications for a lowered car?

Dropped my SQ5 a couple inches with KW V1's and it was like driving a different car. Much more in touch with the road. I look at old pics of my car when it was stock and it looks like it has go-go gadget shocks.

As far as pricing mods, I did, I like the planning process. I actually have a whole spreadsheet with prices I found and labor rates from my local shop. That being said I waited for a sale, or a can't pass up price on each component I bought. Some changes I delayed so I could assess the difference in performance that each incremental mod made as pointed out by RoofRails. And yeah, if someone asks you what it costs then whatever, it's a dumb question. We all make decisions on what we chose to spend our money on and what makes us happy.

[a=m/s2]

Amen. Appreciate all your thoughts gang. Really leaning to just keep on tuning this beast as a life hobby. Maybe pick up a newer Accord Sport for a daily and make 10s and sex appeal a personal stretch goal for the “SQ”.

I have to remember: enjoy the process as much if not more than the result. THAT is where the fun is. You spend a LOT more time training for a marathon than completing one. If I only focus on the outcome, I’d miss most of my life. 😉

[SIQ5]

Amen. Appreciate all your thoughts gang. Really leaning to just keep on tuning this beast as a life hobby. Maybe pick up a newer Accord Sport for a daily and make 10s and sex appeal a personal stretch goal for the “SQ”.

I have to remember: enjoy the process as much if not more than the result. THAT is where the fun is. You spend a LOT more time training for a marathon than completing one. If I only focus on the outcome, I’d miss most of my life. 😉

How's your mod journey progressing?

[Marc R]

Would a 4.0 TT V8 actually fit an SQ5 b9? I've never seen it

But i bet it would make a beast of a car.

[a=m/s2]

It’s been a few weeks. TCU upgrade in. Gaining proficiency in MPVI2 upload/download/logging.

TCU upgrade is great (ty MSQ5). More aggressive shifts in D and S so I hit the torque sweet spots for curve driving in S.

One hitch in the giddyup: rev limiter is still set at 6800. Total PITA. Talk to APR. They said it should be set at 7200 with their downloads; double checked that I have stage one installed and all the good stuff and they say yes indeed. Going to the dealership tomorrow to have it re-flashed. After reflash, I’m going to take it out and run a few quarters with the log on. Then we should be able to see if the rev limiter is indeed set at 7200. Don’t need to giving away useable torque.

One other thing: I had a P0491 code that popped on shortly after I installed the TCU upgrade last time. Code is for bank one exhaust gas ratio fault. Related to secondary air intake for the exhaust gases. Could’ve been the pump. Could’ve been the mixing valve. Checked the fuse. - good. Listened for the pump and valve actuation - all good. And then there was this slightly kinked hose off of the secondary air filter (presumably for the exhaust gas air take). After a few miles/minutes of taking care of the kink and cleaning the filter, codes gone. Thanks to the community and YouTube. Being a tuning newb, the resources out there to learn are incredible. Saved me the $150 diag fee and the inevitable pump/valve replacement.

Also, dropped in a set of NGKs. Looked like the plugs I pulled were original at 95k. Unsure if there’s a performance gain, but was knocking on #6 per the last log. Another thing to check after tomorrow’s Stage 1 re-flash.

Also replaced front and rear brakes with slotted/drilled rotors and ceramics. Here there was a fade difference: I drive hard curves on a 3000ft elevation-change local highway - all switchbacks and double/triple apex curves. North Carolina’s Nürburgring. I can run top to bottom to top over 20 miles without fade now. Handy. The ceramics need a bit more push, but the bite is better.

Comparing coilovers (Bikstein/KW) and new wheels now. Getting stuck on the cosmetic side at this point: An RQS5 grill with aluminum honeycombs would look great.

This is turning into “What did you do to your SQ”. I’ll update after the reflash. Other coilover suggestions/watch outs are welcome. My concern is daily driveability - don’t want the car to turn harsh.

[MSq5]

It’s been a few weeks. TCU upgrade in. Gaining proficiency in MPVI2 upload/download/logging.

TCU upgrade is great (ty MSQ5). More aggressive shifts in D and S so I hit the torque sweet spots for curve driving in S.

One hitch in the giddyup: rev limiter is still set at 6800. Total PITA. Talk to APR. They said it should be set at 7200 with their downloads; double checked that I have stage one installed and all the good stuff and they say yes indeed. Going to the dealership tomorrow to have it re-flashed. After reflash, I’m going to take it out and run a few quarters with the log on. Then we should be able to see if the rev limiter is indeed set at 7200. Don’t need to giving away useable torque.

One other thing: I had a P0491 code that popped on shortly after I installed the TCU upgrade last time. Code is for bank one exhaust gas ratio fault. Related to secondary air intake for the exhaust gases. Could’ve been the pump. Could’ve been the mixing valve. Checked the fuse. - good. Listened for the pump and valve actuation - all good. And then there was this slightly kinked hose off of the secondary air filter (presumably for the exhaust gas air take). After a few miles/minutes of taking care of the kink and cleaning the filter, codes gone. Thanks to the community and YouTube. Being a tuning newb, the resources out there to learn are incredible. Saved me the $150 diag fee and the inevitable pump/valve replacement.

Also, dropped in a set of NGKs. Looked like the plugs I pulled were original at 95k. Unsure if there’s a performance gain, but was knocking on #6 per the last log. Another thing to check after tomorrow’s Stage 1 re-flash.

Also replaced front and rear brakes with slotted/drilled rotors and ceramics. Here there was a fade difference: I drive hard curves on a 3000ft elevation-change local highway - all switchbacks and double/triple apex curves. North Carolina’s Nürburgring. I can run top to bottom to top over 20 miles without fade now. Handy. The ceramics need a bit more push, but the bite is better.

Comparing coilovers (Bikstein/KW) and new wheels now. Getting stuck on the cosmetic side at this point: An RQS5 grill with aluminum honeycombs would look great.

This is turning into “What did you do to your SQ”. I’ll update after the reflash. Other coilover suggestions/watch outs are welcome. My concern is daily driveability - don’t want the car to turn harsh.

Is your ZF8 tune causing the 6,800-6,900 rpm upshifts? If so, it is going to need to be bumped up to match APR's engine tune.

[RoofRails]

My STG 1 APR was verified to be set @ 7450. There is a OEM limit of 6900 set in the TCU tune. Could that be what you are hitting? If you raise your shift points up past that OEM 6900 you will hit a transmission limp mode.

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[a=m/s2]

Correction: I thanked MSQ5 for my TCU tune. All apologizes to BG SQ5, who actually did the work. [Face buried in shirt in shame.]

[a=m/s2]

My STG 1 APR was verified to be set @ 7450. There is a OEM limit of 6900 set in the TCU tune. Could that be what you are hitting? If you raise your shift points up past that OEM 6900 you will hit a transmission limp mode.

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BG SQ5, what do you think?

[a=m/s2]

My STG 1 APR was verified to be set @ 7450. There is a OEM limit of 6900 set in the TCU tune. Could that be what you are hitting? If you raise your shift points up past that OEM 6900 you will hit a transmission limp mode.

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So Roof, did you have to change the TCU set point to 7500? Thinking BG Q5 can do.

[a=m/s2]

Scattered today. Question about TCU set point change answered in thread. (Day before vacation and I’m runnin’ and gunnin’ .)