A4 '99 1.8 ADR timing belt and water pump replacement

[ExtremeLudvig]

Hi guys, Audi newbie here.

Just bought an A4 B5 '99 1.8L ADR that needs a timing belt replacement soon. I'm fairly new to tinkering on cars myself but I've changed some parts on my own and I'm ready to do a "bigger" repair.

I was wondering if anyones got any tips or recommendations or how-to for doing the repair myself? Is there anything I should be aware of before getting into it?
I'm looking at youtube tutorials but they are mostly for AVV, AWM or AEB engines. Since I have the ADR version, is there a big difference between them or should it be pretty much the same process?

Thanks! :)

[Blazius]

No, the block is the same as any other 058 block ( like the AEB). Infact you search for it on youtube there is a specific german tutorial with subtitles for ADR on timing belt. For WP change you gonna have to take the frontend off, no big deal. Side note: americans didnt get the non turbo 1.8.

[ExtremeLudvig]

No, the block is the same as any other 058 block ( like the AEB). Infact you search for it on youtube there is a specific german tutorial with subtitles for ADR on timing belt. For WP change you gonna have to take the frontend off, no big deal. Side note: americans didnt get the non turbo 1.8.

I see, thats great! I saw the german tutorial but tbh it was kind of hard to follow. I found this AEB one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay-PeW1LJMA that is easier to understand I think lol.

Does it matter at all if it's a turbo or non turbo? Sorry If I'm asking such stupid questions I just gotta make sure.

Again, thanks!

[Blazius]

I see, thats great! I saw the german tutorial but tbh it was kind of hard to follow. I found this AEB one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay-PeW1LJMA that is easier to understand I think lol.

Does it matter at all if it's a turbo or non turbo? Sorry If I'm asking such stupid questions I just gotta make sure.

Again, thanks!

Nope it does not matter, the procedure is the same, like I said.

[wangerang]

I just did the job on my 1.8t. First time as well. The FK DIY vid is fantastic-- just make sure you have a sheet of torque specs for the engine up. There's one on vw vortex that you can use. Just look up 1.8t torque specs.

Take your time and triple check everything. I had everything lined up last night and even tore it apart this morning to quadruple check lol. Paranoia is good here.

Blazius gave me the tip to leave the car in 5th gear when applying tension to the belt with the roller and grenade pin tensioner. It'll keep the crank from rotating away from TDC.

Also, if your cam gear is 1/2 tooth off FORWARD, that is ok. It's designed to do that from factory.


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[wangerang]

If you have issues with rust and your viscous fan won't come off, hold it real firmly from the middle and give it a good yank.

Use a breaker bar with a 12pt socket on it and another ratchet simultaneously (opposite directions) to remove the bolts on the harmonic balancer. Another hand might be helpful. Be careful with the bolts. I stripped one and had to order another set. I was shitting my pants because it had gotten so bad that I thought I was going to have to drill it out. In case it does, just hammer a T40 or T45 torx in, make sure it's seated and remove.

If you're freaking out because your water pump pulley's belt seems loose squeeze the belt on the right hand side and keep tightening the pulley. Since it comes in two pieces it'll push the belt and tension it that way.

I can't think of anything else I wish I knew at the beginning, but if you have any other questions feel free to pm.


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[ExtremeLudvig]

If you have issues with rust and your viscous fan won't come off, hold it real firmly from the middle and give it a good yank.

Use a breaker bar with a 12pt socket on it and another ratchet simultaneously (opposite directions) to remove the bolts on the harmonic balancer. Another hand might be helpful. Be careful with the bolts. I stripped one and had to order another set. I was shitting my pants because it had gotten so bad that I thought I was going to have to drill it out. In case it does, just hammer a T40 or T45 torx in, make sure it's seated and remove.

If you're freaking out because your water pump pulley's belt seems loose squeeze the belt on the right hand side and keep tightening the pulley. Since it comes in two pieces it'll push the belt and tension it that way.

I can't think of anything else I wish I knew at the beginning, but if you have any other questions feel free to pm.


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Thanks a lot! Really appreciate the advice. I might pick you up on PM's.

Just ordered the timing belt and waterpump kit. It should get here before the weekend.

[wangerang]

No problem. Another thing, if you don't have any magnetic bolt holders, definitely invest in some. Stay organized. There's a lot of bolts that you don't want to lose.


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[ExtremeLudvig]

Good news boys! I did it! Went for a test run just now, car runs fine.

Followed the FK AutoWorks tutorial, which was excellent. As someone whos fairly new to car repair, it was a god send. It took about 12 hours to complete the repair, with some challenges here and there.

A couple of things to note / ask:

- I reused all tensioners (which one really shouldn't do), so should I go back in at some point to change them out just to be sure? They all looked fine, atleast to my relatively inexperienced eyes.
- I managed to break a couple of 6mm bolts, luckily I got them out and had spare ones laying around. Should I change out screws in general to be sure they don't break on future repairs?
- I did actually freak out a little about the water pump belt being relatively loose and weird. I had to redo it a couple of times to make sure it was tensed up fairly well. The belt ran fine with the engine on so I figure it's fine.
- I also did invest in a magnetic bolt tray, it's such a cheap investment but easily forgotten by a newbie - thanks for the reminder wangerang!

Again, million thanks to you guys for helping out!

[wangerang]

You *can* reuse them but I would've replaced them all in one swoop. If they failed on you it'd be one expensive fuckup.

I won't lie I lost one of my timing tensioner screws and replaced it with another. I sold the car immediately after so I didn't care in that application. I don't know what the general consensus is here, but I'm sure anyone else will tell you to replace them with OE screws. What if one were to vibrate out and you jumped time? That'd suck.

With the water pump belt, how much can you twist it WITH tension on the belt? If it's ~30° and it feels tight you're fine I'm sure.

Good job on completing your first t-belt!


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[ExtremeLudvig]

Yeah I wasn't too comfortable with leaving the old ones in either but unfortunately the kit I got ahold of didn't come with tensioners, only a new t-belt pulley.
I think I'll order all new serpentine, ac and t-belt tensioners pretty soon just to be safe. I won't have to re-time the t-belt when just changing out the tensioner(s) right?

I'll also contact my local Audi dealership about new OE bolts/screws for the most crucial parts.

[wangerang]

You will need to retime


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[Blazius]

You should not reuse the tensioners neither the rollers, they got lifetime on them they arent spinning as freely as a new one which causes friction , friction destroys belts. Also belts dont like being reused either, in this case its fine but before you take it off, mark the direction of rotation and put it back in the same place( engine spins clockwise). As for bolts find the partnumbers and look them up local part store , prolly gonna be cheaper than direct from stealership.

Before taking the belt off , put the motor at tdc, car in 5th gear , if you do it right you might not need to full retime but I'd do it anyway.

[wangerang]

It's a tentative "can" lol. I agree, you should replace those tensioners as soon as you can.

I bought my bolts from AZAutohaus, I personally wanted to use OE parts and the stealership I visited didn't even carry bolts for B5's anymore.




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[ExtremeLudvig]

Just ordered new tensioners :) I've held off on contacting my local "stealership" as you say, as I have had experiences with them that would justify that name lol. They wanted the equivalent of $50 for a oil pressure sensor, ridiculous.

However, where can I find a spec sheet or something for the screws and bolts that I want to change out? I am thinking at least for the water pump, all tensioners, water pump belt pulley and probably a few more spots I can't think of right now.

[wangerang]

Bring the broken bolts and describe what they're for to the parts department at the dealership. They'll give you a parts number. Then from there I'd go to FCP or AZAutohaus online and purchase them there.

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[Blazius]

Year , and model of car( a4 or quattro) please.