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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    388791
    Location
    NM

    Do I need to get my rotors machined/resurfaced?

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    Hi all, just doing my second brake pad change and would like to know if I need to get my rotors machined/resurfaced.

    Got the car when it had 32,000 miles, did a front pad change at around 40,000, it is now 63,000 miles and the light has gone off. Last dealership trip (about 6 months ago) they measured all my pads at 5mm left on each. I decided to replace all of them now wondering if the rotors need some love.

    My next pad change, I may decide to replace all rotors and pads.

    20200608_164209.jpg20200608_164234.jpg

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings MSq5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    393251
    My Garage
    Toyota Highlander, Nissan Armada, Kubota M4030, Scag Tiger Cat 2
    Location
    Gulfport, MS

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt View Post
    Hi all, just doing my second brake pad change and would like to know if I need to get my rotors machined/resurfaced.

    Got the car when it had 32,000 miles, did a front pad change at around 40,000, it is now 63,000 miles and the light has gone off. Last dealership trip (about 6 months ago) they measured all my pads at 5mm left on each. I decided to replace all of them now wondering if the rotors need some love.

    My next pad change, I may decide to replace all rotors and pads.

    20200608_164209.jpg20200608_164234.jpg
    “Looks like light has gone off”. Do you mean it is on or off? Which light?

    Are you handy with basic tools? Do you have a set of dial calipers, or can borrow some? Unless they are scored deeply or otherwise damaged, measure their thickness with calipers. If out of spec, replace them. If not, continue to use them, I don’t have the thickness spec for your front or rear, but someone will come along with that information. Will probably need know what 6/7 model you have to find it.

    Visibly, I don’t see any reason to replace them. Looks like normal wear. Thickness is the key.
    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | 034 Stage 2+dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley - 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Magnaflow high flow downstream ceramic core bottle cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in "modified" stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 29 2017
    AZ Member #
    405974
    Location
    Tyler, Texas

    EDIT:

    So you replaced the pads 6 months ago but the sensor has tripped? What error are you getting? And seriously, if you do replace brakes buy the parts yourself and have a competent shop do it, if replacing rotors you will save thousands.
    2017 Audi RS 7 Prestige
    Glacier White Metallic | Carbon Optic | Black Alcantara | Driver Assistance | Sport Exhaust | 21" Wheels | Red Brake Calipers

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Vinng86's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 20 2018
    AZ Member #
    422758
    Location
    Toronto, ON

    Grab some calipers, and measure about 10mm inside, away from the outside radius of the rotor.

    Judging by your post history, you have an A7 TDI, which means you have 345mm steel front brakes and 330mm steel rear brakes.

    From the manual:

    345mm
    New = 30mm
    Wear Limit = 28mm


    330mm
    New = 22m
    Wear Limit = 20mm


    So if you measure less than the wear limit, replace the rotors. Also, measure in increments all the way around the rotor and if it varies by more than 0.06mm then you should replace the rotors also. Obviously clean everything up super well so rust doesn't affect your measurement
    2014 Audi A6 3.0T Technik(Prestige) S-line w/ Black Optics

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    388791
    Location
    NM

    Thanks for all your replies. I had the pads check out 6 months ago and the pads measured 5mm. Replaced front pads about 20k miles ago and the "BRAKE" light is on now, not sure if fronts or rears tripped it, but replacing all pads.

    Now about the wear limit. If I measure the rotor from the inside, it has a lip on the outer edges like this \_________/ if I were to do a cross section. Do I count the lip or do I have to get it machined off and I'm assuming I have to pull the rotor off to measure it correctly?

  6. #6
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 15 2020
    AZ Member #
    545309
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC

    You measure from inside your "valley" so to speak, the lip is normal. You want to find out how thin the rotors are. If they're too thin, you need new rotors.
    Generally you'd only machine them if they're really badly scored.

    I also thought German rotors can't be machined since they're already as thin as possible to save weight?

    Can you measure the rotor thickness or is there a dust shield behind?

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings MSq5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 14 2017
    AZ Member #
    393251
    My Garage
    Toyota Highlander, Nissan Armada, Kubota M4030, Scag Tiger Cat 2
    Location
    Gulfport, MS

    Quote Originally Posted by Vinng86 View Post
    Grab some calipers, and measure about 10mm inside, away from the outside radius of the rotor.

    Judging by your post history, you have an A7 TDI, which means you have 345mm steel front brakes and 330mm steel rear brakes.

    From the manual:

    345mm
    New = 30mm
    Wear Limit = 28mm


    330mm
    New = 22m
    Wear Limit = 20mm


    So if you measure less than the wear limit, replace the rotors. Also, measure in increments all the way around the rotor and if it varies by more than 0.06mm then you should replace the rotors also. Obviously clean everything up super well so rust doesn't affect your measurement
    ^ ^ ^. This.

    If there is a dust shield behind the rotor, you may not be able to get calipers in without removing the rotors. But, try to see if you can find a place around the circumference to place the calipers.

    If the “brake” light is on, you might just be low on brake fluid. Check that. If not and the pads are that worn again, they will have to be replaced. Once a sensor is scraped with a pad, it will have to be replaced also, if it is separate from the pad.
    2017 Q5 3.0T S-Line | Brilliant Black | 034 Stage 2+dual pulley 93 octane tune | JHM 187mm crank pulley w/ EPL 57.6mm s/c pulley - 3.247 total ratio | Red Star shielded test pipes | Magnaflow high flow downstream ceramic core bottle cats | Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resos in place of OEM baby resos | aFe Pro 5R (part#10-10121) filter in "modified" stock air box | 034 silicone throttle body hose | HP Tuners custom TCU tuned ZF8 | Merc Racing HX | Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 255/45/20.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings FourRingThing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    77017
    Location
    Charleston, SC

    Do yourself a favor and get all new rotors and use Akibono Ceramic pads you will be set for along time. I did this like 50K miles ago and everything looks like new zero rotor wear not even the slightest lip I had a huge lip before I changed them. And no brake dust
    2021 B9 S5, Black optics, Sorts Package, Black door handles, spoiler wrapped black, IE intake and inlet pipe, ECS Tuning strut tower support.

    (sold) 2012 C7 A6 3.0T Prestige, Innovation Package, 20" Sport Package.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Valpo A7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 27 2018
    AZ Member #
    432008
    My Garage
    2018 Jeep Wrangler JLU; 2015 Mas Ghibli SQ4; 2005 Gulfstream Motorhome
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN

    You only got 23,000 miles from a set of front pads? You must be hell on brakes as they should not go out that fast unless you are on them all the time.

    It looks like you have a ridge on the rotor outside edge which is common. Based on the amount of ridge you have I would say you are probably at or below minimum thickness on the rotor. You will need a set of calipers to measure that though.

    If you are smooth when braking (no warped rotor feeling) and the rotor meets minimum thickness then you should be okay to reuse the existing rotor.

    All city stop and go I can see the brakes going in about 30,000 miles. A mix of city and highway should last closer to 60,000. Mostly highway will go even longer. My last car I did the fronts at 125,000 miles and the backs were original when I traded it in at 190,000 miles. Yeah I am almost all highway.

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    388791
    Location
    NM

    Changed my rear pads, the wear sensor wire looked like it was protruding out, and prematurely cut. I had about half of my pads in the rear and about 7mm left in the front.

    Ended up changing the rears while I was at it, probably could of lasted 90k miles
    20200616_190325.jpg20200616_190405.jpg20200616_190431.jpg

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 31 2009
    AZ Member #
    43131
    Location
    Austin, TX

    rule has always been you don't turn German car rotors like you do Hondas, Nissans etc.

    replace every other brake pad change on average also

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