Vacuum Pump Install for B8 2.0T

[JDebo]

Hello! I'm a bit frustrated because I've tried searching the internet high and low for proper removal/install videos and instructions but can't find anything! Heck, I can't find anything on this site (I'm probably searching wrong).

So far, all I've been able to find is that I'll need a T30 Torx drive for one of the screws? Also, the vacuum pump is in the back of the engine, which I believe I've been able to locate from the B7 videos I've watched...What do I need to know to remove and replace the vacuum pump on an Audi A4 B8 2.0T? I did buy a replacement pump and gasket so I'm set on parts. Do you recommend any flexible/bendable wrenches since it is in a tight space behind the engine? Do I need to rub a little oil around the area where the gasket and new pump connect to the engine? (I ask because I used to see my dad do this when installing parts on his trucks growing up). Should I disconnect the battery first? Are there hoses I need to disconnect? I hear there's a hose that you have to be careful not to hit or else you will break it (maybe that's just on the B7)? How do you remove those hoses?

As you can see, I've tried to do my research and am quite frustrated lol. I've done as much research as I can do and although I'm asking a lot of questions, all I need is just a simple step by step write up. I just don't want to spend a grand at the dealership when this does seem somewhat simple to fix.

If someone can provide instructions, I will Venmo you $50. I promise!

Thank you all in advance!

[Novarider]

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine the vacuum pump is on the back left corner. You'll need a T30 or box wrench to remove the 3 screws that hold it to the block. They are the 3 screws that stick out in the pic you posted. There is also a vacuum line attached to the side of the pump that has to be removed. Mine had a crimp style hose clamp on it that had to be destroyed to remove. I replaced it with a worm style clamp after. I haven't had any problems but you may want to use the oem style.

The high pressure Fuel pump(HPFP) is bolted to the vacuum pump, 2 bolts hold it on and they are what's called tripple square. If you don't have tripple square sockets you're going to need to get some. I removed the vacuum pump and HPFP together. If you go that route you'll need to remove the hard fuel line from the bottom of the HPFP and the soft line attached to the end of it. Cover the pump/line with a rag, gas will squirt out.

There are 2 fuel lines and 1 vacuum line that are right in the way, you'll need to unscrew them from the block to get enough room to work.

Once it's off make sure to scrape/clean the block where the vacuum pump gasket sits so you get a good seal. No oil needed on the gasket.

Install is pretty straight forward except you have to install it with 2 of the screws inserted because there isn't enough space to install them once the vacuum pump is on the block, also the HPFP cannot be fully screwed onto the vacuum pump. If it is the follower sticks down into the vacuum pump and then it won't go onto the block. Speaking of the follower, don't forget to transfer it over to the new pump. The part that has the roller wheel goes into the vacuum pump. I only screwed the HPFP onto the vacuum pump about 3 turns of the screw during install, just enough to hold it in place but not push the follower down. A little oil on the HPFP gasket helps insert it into the vacuum pump.

If you're Mechanically inclined it's pretty straight forward. If not it'll be a bit difficult.

Feel free to ask questions if this doesn't make sense or you need clarification.

No need to send money, help/advice is what this forum is here for.

[JDebo]

apologies if this posts twice. I replied but it's not showing up. anyway - THANK YOU for the info! you have no idea how much it means to me!

Quick questions:
1. what size triple square socket and crimp style hose clamp will I need?
2. You mention removing the HPFP along with the vacuum pump. Is this absolutely necessary or does it just make it easier to work on the vacuum pump? And if I do have to remove the HPFP, will I need to buy a new gasket for it?

thank you again :) you're a life savor!

[Smac770]

The HPFP is mounted to the vacuum pump. So you're going to have to disconnect the high pressure fuel rail from the HPFP and remove the HPFP and cam follower from the vacuum pump to remove the vacuum pump.

The normal best starting place for how to take the car apart is the actual Audi repair manuals from erwin.audiusa.com. Pay for a day and get all the PDFs for your car. E.g., the vacuum pump process is in the repair manual - brake system, but the hpfp process is in the repair manual - fuel injection. The manuals will have the correct torque specs and sequences, what needs to be replaced each time you disassemble it (such as the HPFP o-ring), etc.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg...6j145100p~pie/
The outlet pipe that the vacuum hose is clamped to is held in by those two black tabs you can see in pics 1 and 3. Instead of messing with that Oetiker clamp, I have wondered if it would be sufficient to use a tool to release both those tabs and just pull the port out, such as in this video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUn2BVzGa_U

But I don't know if that o-ring is a must replace if released, ie, if not doing so is just begging for a vacuum leak. But the reseal kit form RKX is only $30:
https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/...09-a4-q5-a5-a6


If you prefer to keep the port intact to the pump, you'll need to cut off the old Oetiker clamp and have the correct tool to clamp a new one on afterwards. I believe it's a 21, the size is marked on the clamp itself.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../611-611070/#9
The diagram is terrible, but it's all there is. It implies the 4cyl clamp is the 21x7x.6, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n10201801/


As for the triple square, have a set. It's an Audi, you'll use the M8, M10, M12, and M14 at some point.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF5FAHO
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQQ2QL1
That set is nice because you can drive them normally with 1/4" or 3/8", or side turn them with a wrench. I have a Schwaben set that includes side turning triple square and torx, but it's about double that price. And you can't use a standard square drive with the Schwaben bits.

[Novarider]

The HPFP is mounted to the vacuum pump. So you're going to have to disconnect the high pressure fuel rail from the HPFP and remove the HPFP and cam follower from the vacuum pump to remove the vacuum pump.

The normal best starting place for how to take the car apart is the actual Audi repair manuals from erwin.audiusa.com. Pay for a day and get all the PDFs for your car. E.g., the vacuum pump process is in the repair manual - brake system, but the hpfp process is in the repair manual - fuel injection. The manuals will have the correct torque specs and sequences, what needs to be replaced each time you disassemble it (such as the HPFP o-ring), etc.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg...6j145100p~pie/
The outlet pipe that the vacuum hose is clamped to is held in by those two black tabs you can see in pics 1 and 3. Instead of messing with that Oetiker clamp, I have wondered if it would be sufficient to use a tool to release both those tabs and just pull the port out, such as in this video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUn2BVzGa_U

But I don't know if that o-ring is a must replace if released, ie, if not doing so is just begging for a vacuum leak. But the reseal kit form RKX is only $30:
https://www.rkxtech.com/collections/...09-a4-q5-a5-a6


If you prefer to keep the port intact to the pump, you'll need to cut off the old Oetiker clamp and have the correct tool to clamp a new one on afterwards. I believe it's a 21, the size is marked on the clamp itself.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4.../611-611070/#9
The diagram is terrible, but it's all there is. It implies the 4cyl clamp is the 21x7x.6, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/n10201801/


As for the triple square, have a set. It's an Audi, you'll use the M8, M10, M12, and M14 at some point.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JF5FAHO
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQQ2QL1
That set is nice because you can drive them normally with 1/4" or 3/8", or side turn them with a wrench. I have a Schwaben set that includes side turning triple square and torx, but it's about double that price. And you can't use a standard square drive with the Schwaben bits.

I didn't know the name of those clamps. I just bought a set and I'll replace the worm one I used on the pump. Thanks

[iceboss23]

I have an oil leak from this pump and the mechanic, who I generally trust fairly well, recommended that it be replaced rather than just replacing the gasket. Anybody have thoughts on why this might be better. Seems like the same labor $$$ to him either way. It also looks fairly straightforward to do myself as a fairly decent diyer. Any gotchas or warnings from people that have done this?

[JDebo]

Alright! Sorry for the delay but I've officially removed the vacuum pump! I haven't installed the new one because after removing the old one, I was exhausted (I went on a hike earlier today too so I blame that lol).

The HPFP doesn't seem to budge at all. Like, it just sits in place and I don't see any screws where I can free it so that I can properly slide it into the vacuum pump while simultaneously putting the new pump in place. How I got it off, seems like luck. Is this where I should remove the hard fuel line from the bottom of the pump and the soft line attached to the end of it? Are those two lines causing the fuel pump to not move?

One last question: When I took the old vacuum pump off, there were some little pieces of debris that I cleaned up and cleaned the area where the old gasket was like you noted. I noticed that there was a tiny bit of debris on the...vacuum part that is connected to the engine that the pump goes over (sorry I don't know what it's called exactly but it goes into the hole that isn't the hole the HPFP goes into). It was oily and I had to wipe it off because of the debris. Do I need to put a little oil on it again?

Hopefully, this is clear and makes sense as I'm exhausted while writing this but I am planning on finishing this tomorrow so would love some input before then.

Thank you again, your step-by-step instructions allowed me to get this far :)

**Oh and a tip for anyone who has to work with fuel lines, courteous of my brother-in-law who is a master mechanic: "locate the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box. Don't remove it yet. Turn the car engine on and then remove the fuse. Rev the engine a little - This will cause the engine to run out of gas and make it easier to work with the fuel lines. It won't hurt the engine at all". IT WORKS! He sadly lives a handful of states over so he's unable to help me with this project.

[JDebo]

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine the vacuum pump is on the back left corner. You'll need a T30 or box wrench to remove the 3 screws that hold it to the block. They are the 3 screws that stick out in the pic you posted. There is also a vacuum line attached to the side of the pump that has to be removed. Mine had a crimp style hose clamp on it that had to be destroyed to remove. I replaced it with a worm style clamp after. I haven't had any problems but you may want to use the oem style.

The high pressure Fuel pump(HPFP) is bolted to the vacuum pump, 2 bolts hold it on and they are what's called tripple square. If you don't have tripple square sockets you're going to need to get some. I removed the vacuum pump and HPFP together. If you go that route you'll need to remove the hard fuel line from the bottom of the HPFP and the soft line attached to the end of it. Cover the pump/line with a rag, gas will squirt out.

There are 2 fuel lines and 1 vacuum line that are right in the way, you'll need to unscrew them from the block to get enough room to work.

Once it's off make sure to scrape/clean the block where the vacuum pump gasket sits so you get a good seal. No oil needed on the gasket.

Install is pretty straight forward except you have to install it with 2 of the screws inserted because there isn't enough space to install them once the vacuum pump is on the block, also the HPFP cannot be fully screwed onto the vacuum pump. If it is the follower sticks down into the vacuum pump and then it won't go onto the block. Speaking of the follower, don't forget to transfer it over to the new pump. The part that has the roller wheel goes into the vacuum pump. I only screwed the HPFP onto the vacuum pump about 3 turns of the screw during install, just enough to hold it in place but not push the follower down. A little oil on the HPFP gasket helps insert it into the vacuum pump.

If you're Mechanically inclined it's pretty straight forward. If not it'll be a bit difficult.

Feel free to ask questions if this doesn't make sense or you need clarification.

No need to send money, help/advice is what this forum is here for.

Alright! Sorry for the delay but I've officially removed the vacuum pump! I haven't installed the new one because after removing the old one, I was exhausted (I went on a hike earlier today too so I blame that lol).

The HPFP doesn't seem to budge at all. Like, it just sits in place and I don't see any screws where I can free it so that I can properly slide it into the vacuum pump while simultaneously putting the new pump in place. How I got it off, seems like luck. Is this where I should remove the hard fuel line from the bottom of the pump and the soft line attached to the end of it? Are those two lines causing the fuel pump to not move?

One last question: When I took the old vacuum pump off, there were some little pieces of debris that I cleaned up and cleaned the area where the old gasket was like you noted. I noticed that there was a tiny bit of debris on the...vacuum part that is connected to the engine that the pump goes over (sorry I don't know what it's called exactly but it goes into the hole that isn't the hole the HPFP goes into). It was oily and I had to wipe it off because of the debris. Do I need to put a little oil on it again?

Hopefully, this is clear and makes sense as I'm exhausted while writing this but I am planning on finishing this tomorrow so would love some input before then.

Thank you again, your step-by-step instructions allowed me to get this far :)

**Oh and a tip for anyone who has to work with fuel lines, courteous of my brother-in-law who is a master mechanic: "locate the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box. Don't remove it yet. Turn the car engine on and then remove the fuse. Rev the engine a little - This will cause the engine to run out of gas and make it easier to work with the fuel lines. It won't hurt the engine at all". IT WORKS! He sadly lives a handful of states over so he's unable to help me with this project.

[Smac770]

Actually, the Audi documented procedure for depressurizing the high pressure line is to start the car, pull the fuel pump fuse (in the left end of the dash), monitor the high pressure fuel rail pressure (just called fuel pressure, IDE00589) and turn the car off when it hits 800 (kPA). Do not let the engine just stall.

Yes, you have to disconnect the hard line (high pressure side) and the soft line (low pressure side) from the HPFP to unmount it from the vacuum pump. There are two screws that hold the HPFP to the vacuum pump, both triple square (M10 iirc). So I'm not sure what you mean about don't see any screws.

That's the end of the exhaust camshaft that fits into the vacuum pump to turn it.

Repair manuals, they are a helpful thing. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day and get all the PDFs for your car. Vacuum pump stuff is in the brake system manual. Says nothing about needing to reoil the vacuum pump tappet or the camshaft end. It get oiled anyway when the engine starts.

[JDebo]

Actually, the Audi documented procedure for depressurizing the high pressure line is to start the car, pull the fuel pump fuse (in the left end of the dash), monitor the high pressure fuel rail pressure (just called fuel pressure, IDE00589) and turn the car off when it hits 800 (kPA). Do not let the engine just stall.

Yes, you have to disconnect the hard line (high pressure side) and the soft line (low pressure side) from the HPFP to unmount it from the vacuum pump. There are two screws that hold the HPFP to the vacuum pump, both triple square (M10 iirc). So I'm not sure what you mean about don't see any screws.

That's the end of the exhaust camshaft that fits into the vacuum pump to turn it.

Repair manuals, they are a helpful thing. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day and get all the PDFs for your car. Vacuum pump stuff is in the brake system manual. Says nothing about needing to reoil the vacuum pump tappet or the camshaft end. It get oiled anyway when the engine starts.

Thanks for the reply! I'll have to share that info with my bro-in-law, so thank you!

Tomorrow, I'll work on disconnecting the hard and soft lines. I don't think I messed anything up taking the vacuum pump out the way I did. I just kinda wiggled it out and gently put pressure on the HPFP, which allowed me to get the pump out. Getting the new one back on...that's a different story, so I'll let you all know how it goes!

And yes - I should probably download the repair manuals from erwin but I also like the community and help this site gives.

[JDebo]

Standing in front of the car looking at the engine the vacuum pump is on the back left corner. You'll need a T30 or box wrench to remove the 3 screws that hold it to the block. They are the 3 screws that stick out in the pic you posted. There is also a vacuum line attached to the side of the pump that has to be removed. Mine had a crimp style hose clamp on it that had to be destroyed to remove. I replaced it with a worm style clamp after. I haven't had any problems but you may want to use the oem style.

The high pressure Fuel pump(HPFP) is bolted to the vacuum pump, 2 bolts hold it on and they are what's called tripple square. If you don't have tripple square sockets you're going to need to get some. I removed the vacuum pump and HPFP together. If you go that route you'll need to remove the hard fuel line from the bottom of the HPFP and the soft line attached to the end of it. Cover the pump/line with a rag, gas will squirt out.

There are 2 fuel lines and 1 vacuum line that are right in the way, you'll need to unscrew them from the block to get enough room to work.

Once it's off make sure to scrape/clean the block where the vacuum pump gasket sits so you get a good seal. No oil needed on the gasket.

Install is pretty straight forward except you have to install it with 2 of the screws inserted because there isn't enough space to install them once the vacuum pump is on the block, also the HPFP cannot be fully screwed onto the vacuum pump. If it is the follower sticks down into the vacuum pump and then it won't go onto the block. Speaking of the follower, don't forget to transfer it over to the new pump. The part that has the roller wheel goes into the vacuum pump. I only screwed the HPFP onto the vacuum pump about 3 turns of the screw during install, just enough to hold it in place but not push the follower down. A little oil on the HPFP gasket helps insert it into the vacuum pump.

If you're Mechanically inclined it's pretty straight forward. If not it'll be a bit difficult.

Feel free to ask questions if this doesn't make sense or you need clarification.

No need to send money, help/advice is what this forum is here for.

quick question - for the follower, can't I just put it into the hole that the HPFP goes into, once the vacuum pump is on the block? Then, put the HPFP into that hole?

[Smac770]

quick question - for the follower, can't I just put it into the hole that the HPFP goes into, once the vacuum pump is on the block? Then, put the HPFP into that hole?

That's exactly what you do. Mount vacuum pump, insert follower, mount fuel pump

[JDebo]

That's exactly what you do. Mount vacuum pump, insert follower, mount fuel pump

Awesome, that's what I did and I got her running! However, and maybe I need to let it run for a while? but, it's now making a bit of a loud sound. Here's a video of it. I only left the car on for a few minutes and it did seem to subside a bit but not sure what that noise could be? Also - When I started it, it was idling a little over 1000 RPMs. Usually, it's a little under that. https://vimeo.com/433852436/5e4078b193

[Smac770]

Cold start idle is 1200rpm, then it drops to the 700-800rpm standard idle.

I couldn't hear anything unusual in the video, but you have to remember my frame of reference has 208k miles on it.

Did you oil the tappet before sliding it down into the vacuum pump? You are suppose to oil that. But by now it's going to be oiled.

[JDebo]

Cold start idle is 1200rpm, then it drops to the 700-800rpm standard idle.

I couldn't hear anything unusual in the video, but you have to remember my frame of reference has 208k miles on it.

Did you oil the tappet before sliding it down into the vacuum pump? You are suppose to oil that. But by now it's going to be oiled.

Tappet = cam follower, right? If so, I pulled it out of my old one and it was already pretty oiled up... but thankfully it didn't look worn or anything (I compared it to new ones online). I guess I'll go ahead and start it back up and let it run for a bit longer and then take it for a spin. It probably just needs to get nice and lubed up. I'll refresh this before I go out after dinner JUST IN CASE someone else chimes in and says "that noise means it's about to bloooow!" lol

Thanks for all the assistance. You and Novarider saved me a lot of money and I wish there was a way to repay you both. I was going to make a video of me installing the vacuum pump but my film partner has been swamped with work so I didn't have anyone to help. Next time though!

[JDebo]

Just wanted to post that my car seems to be okay! I started it up and drove about a mile or so around my area. It does seem to drive differently in terms of "power" but before, it would be really...jumpy/spunky? I don't know how to explain it but now it seems more "normal" I guess. I did step on the gas a bit so I can confirm the turbo still kicks in lol but I'll go hit the highway tomorrow and report back.

Just want to say again, thank you to those who helped me. I do consider myself mechanically inclined but I've never taken on a job like this before, nor have I followed the directions of internet strangers, so THANK YOU! Thank you for helping me gain the confidence to fix my car. I truly am grateful for this community.

Now that I've gotten familiar with the fuel pump, I am considering buying a new one to replace the old one, along with the tappet/cam follower. Does it need it? I'm not quite sure, but now that I know how to replace it, I'm going to because I want this car to last a long time. It's a 2011 Audi A4 B8 2.0T Premium with 69,890 miles on it. I love this car, and it's the 5th Audi that I've owned in my life (I'm 31 years old).

First car: 1996 Audi A4 2.8 FWD - 5 speed manual
Second car: 2005 Audi A4 3.0 Ultra Sport Quattro - 6 speed manual
Third car: 2001 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro - Automatic
Fourth car: 2002 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro - 6 speed manual
Fifth car: 2011 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro Premium - Automatic
Sixth car: ?? (hopefully an S5)

[Smac770]

Congrats on the operation well done. There's a lot that is not hard to do on the car, you just need the correct information to take the random guesswork out of how to do it. This is still an op I need to do, but holding off until I do the whole cylinder head cover reseal.

Which clamp did you end up using for the output tube? Was the 21x7x.6 the right one?

At 200k miles, my tappet looked just fine. If nothing stood out to you about yours when you were handling it, I'd say no reason to replace it. But the HPFP, it's not uncommon for that to need replacing at some point.

[JDebo]

Congrats on the operation well done. There's a lot that is not hard to do on the car, you just need the correct information to take the random guesswork out of how to do it. This is still an op I need to do, but holding off until I do the whole cylinder head cover reseal.

Which clamp did you end up using for the output tube? Was the 21x7x.6 the right one?

At 200k miles, my tappet looked just fine. If nothing stood out to you about yours when you were handling it, I'd say no reason to replace it. But the HPFP, it's not uncommon for that to need replacing at some point.

Thanks, appreciate it! I ended up going to Autozone and getting some flathead snake clamps. I got two sizes, one that was smaller but was adjustable to 21 and then one that was a little bigger that was also adjustable to 21, just in case. The small one seemed to work just fine but I'm going to keep my eye on it. I also hope I tightened it enough because I did see a YouTube video that showed the same noise that I was worried about and it seemed to be coming from that hose. I'll poke around and investigate a little more

[Eclipsegst97]

trying to see if any one has any insight here.
I removed the vacuum pump but..... lost one of the bolts.
I've searched for an hour.

any one know of the part # ( little frustrated right now and i'm going to do a google search right now)

if I cant find it I'll buy a new pump.
sigh

[Eclipsegst97]

Looks like it is
N10739401

Called the audi dealer, said ti does fit my B8 So we'll see
If I knew it was replaceable I wouldnt have spent 1 hr searching for it. and it 2$