Can you guys help me do my first oil change on my Audi

[Arese]

Hey everyone,

First time changing oil of my A4 2.0 T convertible.
However not my first time changing oil on a car, used to service myself my previous cars (VW & Alfa Romeo) so I'm familiar with the process but I heard that changing oil on B7 A4s was a little bit trickier than other cars.

- A couple of month ago I had found a nice DIY Oil Change tutorial in the tech section of this forum however the thread appears to have been removed? I couldn't find it despite using the search function
- Can you guys recommend any how-to/video that you know by experience is thorough and clear? For now, I'm looking at these tutorials at the moment https://www.audiworld.com/how-tos/a/...ine-oil-421190
https://blog.europaparts.com/audi-a4...0t-oil-change/

Remove Belly Pan:

- Can you guys confirm I only need a flat screwdriver to remove the belly pan?

Oil Filter:

- That's the tricky part I believe. The oil filter is housed in some sort of housing. According to my research, I need these tools is that correct?
https://www.europaparts.com/oil-filt...metalnerd.html
Regarding the oil filter housing drain tube I'm struggling to find one in Australia. Is there any Aussie here who could point to a local site selling the correct tube?
I only found that one but how can I cross match it is the correct one I need for my engine? https://www.australianonlinecarparts...-tool-42~25560

- For the oil filter socket, any standard 36mm socket will do it? It doesn't need to be a specific VW/Audi tool like below?
https://www.europaparts.com/oil-filt...rd-mnsh36.html

- Some tutorials recommend the use of an extension. Is it to for the oil filter housing? Is it hard to reach from underneath the car?


Oil Drain:

- I need a 19mm socket and after it's pretty much done.

Did I miss anything? Anything I should know to make my life easier when I'm under the car?


I would really appreciate any insights you guys may have.

Thanks

[vce1232000]

Use a plastic bag over the oil filter housing when you have it loosened to catch the overflow oil to avoid the mess you you cant find the drain down tube

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Here you go : Audi A4 B7 2.0T Oil Change

[Brillo]

Tutorial: The Blauparts video is accurate and can serve as a general guide.
Belly pan: Yes, the belly pan complicates the oil change a bit especially if you don't have a lift, but you get used to it. You need a wide flat blade screwdriver.
Oil filter: As you know a cartridge type oil filter is used. The oil filter housing drain tool is very helpful if you can find one but it's not necessary (your europarts link is the right one). You can use the plastic bag approach as vce suggests above, otherwise you'll get about 1/4 liter of oil spilling out as you loosen it. By far the easiest way to loosen the housing is a cheap (<$5 US) oil filter strap wrench for small filters. It's very easy to do from the top side and there is plenty swing room for the wrench handle. The next easiest is the 36 mm socket.
Drain plug: Can't remember the size but 19 mm may be right. I have an aftermarket magnetic drain plug that is 14mm. Use a new copper washer with the oil change plug at each oil change and don't over tighten as you're screwing into an aluminum housing.

[Ray1031]

I usually cut in half a milk jug to contain the oil from the oil filter, I tried the bag trick but I still made a mess with it....


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[vvenom800tt]

Don't over torque the drain plug!!!

Use a torque wrench.

Apart from that all the others advise is soot on.

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[Arese]

Tutorial: The Blauparts video is accurate and can serve as a general guide.
Belly pan: Yes, the belly pan complicates the oil change a bit especially if you don't have a lift, but you get used to it. You need a wide flat blade screwdriver.
Oil filter: As you know a cartridge type oil filter is used. The oil filter housing drain tool is very helpful if you can find one but it's not necessary (your europarts link is the right one). You can use the plastic bag approach as vce suggests above, otherwise, you'll get about 1/4 liter of oil spilling out as you loosen it. By far the easiest way to loosen the housing is a cheap (<$5 US) oil filter strap wrench for small filters. It's very easy to do from the top side and there is plenty swing room for the wrench handle. The next easiest is the 36 mm socket.
Drain plug: Can't remember the size but 19 mm may be right. I have an aftermarket magnetic drain plug that is 14mm. Use a new copper washer with the oil change plug at each oil change and don't over tighten as you're screwing into an aluminum housing.

Thanks I found the Blaupart video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spo0nKmVenQ (man how I would love to have a lift and be able to work underneath the car while standing)
Love the video, you can clearly see how to attach the oil filter drain tool to the oil filter housing and how to remove the housing. Really helpful
In the video, he mentions that we have to make sure that the new o-ring is installed in the housing with the "tab" facing up. I'm not sure what he's referencing to? I'll have a look at my oil filter and maybe I'll understand what it means when I see it.

You said my europart links was the right one, did you imply that this one wasn't the right one? https://www.australianonlinecarparts...-tool-42~25560
I emailed them and currently waiting on a reply

Thanks for the extra options to unscrew the housing. I think I'll go with a 36mm socket and long extension, if I can't find any I'll go the old fashion way and use an oil filter wrench as you suggested. Just to make sure, did you say that when using an oil filter wrench you can do it from the top?

Lastly, I must confess I never replaced the oil drain plug after changing oil because I've always been confused about buying a replacement drain plug.
Can you give me the exact specs of the size of the drain plug for our cars?
I've done a little bit research and it seems I need a M14x1.5mm?
Like this one https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...mm/341731.html

I really appreciate your reply, it helps a lot and I have now a better picture of the job

Don't over torque the drain plug!!!

Use a torque wrench.

Apart from that all the others advise is soot on.

Sent from my SM-G981U1 using Audizine mobile app

Thanks, same never used a torque wrench but now I want to do things the right way. I'm definitely buying one

[Brillo]

Arese When you purchase your Mann or OEM VW oil filter cartridge it comes with a new rubber O-ring. It has a small tab on it - hard to miss. When you press the new O-ring into the housing, the tab goes up which is actually a bit of a no-brainer when you see it.

Your link shows another almost identical version of the oil housing drain tool. It should also work.

36mm socket should work just fine. Most folks probably do it this way. And yes, a smaller metal oil filter strap wrench works really well and can be easily done from from the top side of the engine bay.

You don't need to replace the oil drain plug, just use a new copper gasket with each oil change. They are really cheap at an auto parts store. The sump threads are aluminum so don't gorilla torque the drain plug back into the sump. A torque wrench is helpful for this. In my first post to you I merely stated that I replaced my oil drain plug with one that has a magnet sticking out of it, but to be honest I've never really pulled much metal filing off of it during an oil change. Here is what I bought and it also tells you the size of threads and shows the copper gaskets by the way: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../002201ecs02a/

[Charles.waite]

I use a 36mm socket for the housing and it works great. I always slap on a 6-10" extension just so I don't have to wedge my hands in there, its just easier.

And the drain tool is also extremely helpful but only really necessary if you don't want to make a mess. I got one from Europa I think that has a swivel and a 45° bend so its pretty easy. Be very careful threading it onto the plastic housing, at least if its metal. I crossthreaded mine the first time I did it and its a pain to get it on straight now, it always takes me like 10 tries to get it on right. Its not the end of the world, but frustrating nonetheless.

Otherwise, the DIY Hugh posted is solid. Its a simple simple job if you've got the right tools

[mc_hotmail]

I use a 36mm socket for the housing and it works great.

Yeah, I bought that sucker just for this job. I use a plastic cutting sheet to channel the nasty run out away from the cross bars and frames. The B7 oil filter housing is the worst design ever -- need a special tool just to drain the oil left in the housing . B8 redesign this so the oil filter points straight down and high above the bay. You can remove the filter standing up in front of the car, quick and clean .

[Charles.waite]

The b8 having the filter on the top is SO much better.

The b7s is where it is because the engine is almost the same as the 1.8t engines which have it in the same location. The cartridge housing is less messy than the 1.8t metal filter but, yea, extra steps and extra tools.

[Cyrik]

The b8 having the filter on the top is SO much better.

The b7s is where it is because the engine is almost the same as the 1.8t engines which have it in the same location. The cartridge housing is less messy than the 1.8t metal filter but, yea, extra steps and extra tools.

I'd rather have a spin-on filter rather than a cartridge filter any day of the week.

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[Brillo]

I'd rather have a spin-on filter rather than a cartridge filter any day of the week.

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I hear you Cyrik, most of us would too. Unfortunately, the trend is in the other direction. Too many used canister filters are ending up in landfills - not being recycled. the cartridge filters are cheaper to produce and vastly easier to recycle, so the story goes.

[Theiceman]

Yeah, I bought that sucker just for this job. I use a plastic cutting sheet to channel the nasty run out away from the cross bars and frames. The B7 oil filter housing is the worst design ever -- need a special tool just to drain the oil left in the housing . B8 redesign this so the oil filter points straight down and high above the bay. You can remove the filter standing up in front of the car, quick and clean .

let me tell you, its the ONLY thing good about that engine.

[Theiceman]

I hear you Cyrik, most of us would too. Unfortunately, the trend is in the other direction. Too many used canister filters are ending up in landfills - not being recycled. the cartridge filters are cheaper to produce and vastly easier to recycle, so the story goes.

people throw oil filters in regular garbage for land fills ? WTF is wrong with people ?? here in Canada oil places will not only take your used oil, they will take your filter for special disposal.

[Charles.waite]

I recycle my oil but toss my filter in the garbage. As far as I know stores here don’t accept filters for recycling. Just oil. They don’t even recycle the containers either. They just give them back to you. Which is an annoying kick in the nuts.

Maybe I’ll just stick the old filters in a ziplock and save them for the trips to the main hazardous waste depot.

[mc_hotmail]

let me tell you, its the ONLY thing good about that engine.

Hmm, do tell and may be start another thread, B7 vs B8. I have a FWD B8, and yes the CVT sucks. My B7 is quattro, so I don't have apple to apple comparison.

[Cyrik]

EPA in my area says that as long as you punch a hole in the top of the filter to let the extra oil out you can throw it away in the trash. Trust me I questioned it at first when I started working at my current shop but fortunately you'd be surprised how much oil actually comes out of em.

We have a hammer with a small nail welded on it just for canister filters, it's cute lol.