The dreaded P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder...

[lunder03]

Have the P0300 code w/ misfires on cylinders 4,6&5. No “intermittent” or “Voltage too low” warnings. 2003 A4 B6 3.0l

Completely rebuilt heads aside from valve guides, springs, & intake cams. Replaced PVC system and all the brittle black hose lines. Timing belt set-up, w/ water pump. Serpentine belt & tensioner. Coil packs, spark plugs & all four 02 and cam sensors and rebuilt the spark plugs...meaning new o-rings and filter. New battery. Finally, necessary gaskets, etc.

Pulled fuel pump fuse, cranked/ turned her over a bit to build compression...replaced fuse, started her up, ran really rough...knew pretty much at least one cylinder wasn’t firing right or at all by the way the motor shook.

Ran VCDS had 11 codes just for the motor, cylinder misfires on 5&6, intermittent and low voltage warnings...cam sensors warnings. Codes for the tranny, breaks etc. Saved the results, cleared the codes, started her again. Ran a bit smother as in not shaking as much, but def. not right. Let her run just long enough for the engine warning light to come on...ran VCDS again and only a very few codes came back on...none to really worry about, BUT the misfires.

Any idea’s??? No one thus far that I can locate any information on, has solved this on their car.

I’m going to first pull the spark plugs and run an endoscope down to make sure nothing is in there, or broken or possibly looking like it might. I’m doing this due to related posts I’ve read as a precautionary measure. If all looks good I’ll do a compression test. Next I’ll check the power to the packs with a test light or voltage meter; even though I doubt that’s the issue, same with the plugs...they are all new. Plugs are all gapped the same out of the box and 1/2 of the motor is running properly...still, will double check.

From there I’ll check the injectors...I did notice the rebuild kit had different shaped o-rings for the top, those are all round doughnut shaped, not the flat shaped o-ring like oem. Again, half the motor is running with the same parts. Probably should move on to fuel compression and try to check the fuel trim. Seen other suggestions in regards to leak down test. Hope there wouldn’t be anything since all have been replaced new. Also seen a post on it being one of the combi’s/EGR being stuck open. Not sure on the fuel trim readings as there’s no history to go off of and the car is not drivable as is, nor do I really wish to keep trying to run her under the current conditions after seeing what happened to another guy with a 4.2...

Any help, direction or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Can post the VCDS results if necessary.


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[lunder03]

So, ran the endoscope and checked all three cylinders, didn’t see anything out of the ordinary. Checked for power to all the wires, i.e. packs, injectors, cam sensors, etc. All have continuous power. Fuel rail is sending fuel, and all injectors are working as I swapped them from one side to the other. With same VCDS results for the engine.

I did not swap the packs or spark plugs to the other side, just swapped them around on the side there were misfires...No, not logical, but to be honest I sincerely doubt it’s the packs or plugs since they’re all new and were installed out of the box at random.

I did notice, after pulling the s.plugs that the cylinder 6 s.plug Did Not smell like gas at the spark end whereas 4 & 5 did. Actually, 4 & 5 looked a bit saturated and the car set for almost 48 hrs. Hence, Fuel rail seems to be working properly as mentioned, but not sure of fuel pressure; I don’t think I have a fuel pressure measuring tool...in fact I know I don’t.

But anyway, gas on the plug might have been due to flooding??? I noticed today when I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked her to build compression due to pulling the plugs I could smell gas around the rail/injectors. Double checked I had pulled the right fuse; was right. Made sure everything was secure and seated properly after swapping everything around. No gas smell after fuseless crank this time.
Ran the same as yesterday and only ran it long enough for the engine check light to come on. Pulled the VCDS faults and roughly the same as yesterday, but had some new codes for the CAN BUS to instrument cluster and some others. See VCDS results below...

Sunday,31,May,2020,18:34:11:32670
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 20.4.0.1 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20200331 DS317.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAULT68E73A349756 License Plate:


Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WAULT68E73A349756 Mileage: 227230km-141194miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06C-909-559-ASN.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 909 559 E HW: 8E0 909 059
Component: 3.0L V6/5V G 0004
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 372B2D61635A7D53A28-5160

4 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -
16688 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected
16689 - Cylinder 5
P0305 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl
Part No: 8E0 927 156 Q
Component: AG5 01V 3.0l5V USA 0912
Coding: 0001002
Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 3C21324D5A7C5E0B4FA-5160

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 8E0 614 517 H
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 2328
Coding: 04497
Shop #: WSC 06435
VCID: 2D070F099406C783C84-51F2

1 Fault Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85); Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
Part No: 8E0 820 043 L
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1116
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 2A0D0415A5E8D0BB2D6-5160

1 Fault Found:
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0305
Coding: 00013
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 34311A6D772C964B87A-4B00

5 Faults Found:
01502 - Bulb for Rear Fog; Left (L46)
57-00 - Electric Circuit Failure
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01326 - Control Module for Multi-Function Steering Wheel (J453)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
79-10 - Please Check Fault Codes - Intermittent
01312 - Powertrain Data Bus
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 655 C
Component: Airbag 8.4EP 2000
Coding: 0010607
Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
VCID: 372B2D61635A7D53A28-5184

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 02041
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 3E25384549604C1B61E-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
Part No: 8E0 920 950 L
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D36
Coding: 03200
Shop #: WSC 03055
VCID: 323D1C758D38987B956-5160
WAULT68E73A349756 AUZ6Z0C0060064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr Labels: 8E0-959-760.lbl
Part No: 8E0 959 760
Component: Sitzmemory R2 F 0305
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 71BFD379488EE363ACC-4B3C

2 Faults Found:
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1311
Coding: 11852
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 72BDDC754DB8D87B556-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0003

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0003

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0003

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0003

3 Faults Found:
00955 - Key 1
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01561 - Rear left door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Rear right door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D09
Coding: 00060
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 04518AAD673CE6CB77A-4B5C

2 Faults Found:
01535 - Control Circuit for Right Headlight Range Adjusting Motor (V49)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01534 - Control Circuit for Left Headlight Range Adjusting Motor (V48)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 8E0 035 195 F
Component: symphony II NP2 0051
Coding: 01205
Shop #: WSC 03055
VCID: 2A0D0415A5D8D0BB2D6-4E62

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:11, VBatt start/end: 12.8V/12.7V)-----------

As far as what’s throwing faults for the headlights and hvac I’m not concerned...headlights are aftermarket and hvac was discharged so I could pull off the whole front assembly...will recharge later.

Going to perform a compression test tomorrow, will post the results. At worst, I may swap out the engine harness with the donor cars if it can be done. Not real sure if there’s a pin difference from A6 C7 to the A4 B6 when it comes to harnesses and where they connect to??? ECU??? Anyone know if that’s possible or plausible??? Obviously the ECU’s cannot.

Note: Battery not fully charged, was on the charger. Checked mouse nest I pulled from the cabin filter and no wire insulation in the nest. Still hear the crackle, sizzle, pop or whatever it is near the ECU when key placed to on position; is that normal?


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[lunder03]

O-ring difference only due to having been in there so long. No leaks anywhere, whether it be fuel, oil or anti-freeze.


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[slacktide]

Hey, I recently went through something on my 3.0, maybe it helps you. I just did a major service, similar to yours. - Cleaned the intake manifold and changeover valve, new vacuum lines, cleaned injectors and replaced o-rings, replaced a bunch of coolant o-rings, new thermostat, new temp sender, new knock sensors, new front O2 sensors, replaced the PVC valve and lines, fixed a bunch of crappy electrical connectors.

At first it ran great - then after about 30 miles, it started running rough, really bad idle, CEL with a P0300 code for random multiple misfires. One thing I noticed is that from a cold start, it would rev up to 2000 RPM then settle to a a real low and bouncy idle.

After a bunch of poking around, my new PCV seemed really loose. In particular that one short line that goes under the intake manifold.... so I had to pull that damn manifold again, and this is what I found. The new short PCV line had split off it's hose barb. Serves me right for cheeping out and using discount eBay parts I guess. There isn't enough pressure in the crankcase to cause a blowout like that, so I suspect it was made from some kind of plastic that just couldn't take the heat. I replaced that section with some 3/4" heater hose, just came back from a test drive and it's running great.

So I'd suspect that you've got a large intake air leak somewhere after the throttle body. Either in the new PCV system, or something else that should be hooked up to the intake manifold or throttle body. There's a 2" long, s-shaped rubber hose on the back of the plastic duct that bolts onto the throttle body, it's really easy to miss. Also various other vac lines that could be missing.

[lunder03]

Hey, I recently went through something on my 3.0, maybe it helps you. I just did a major service, similar to yours. - Cleaned the intake manifold and changeover valve, new vacuum lines, cleaned injectors and replaced o-rings, replaced a bunch of coolant o-rings, new thermostat, new temp sender, new knock sensors, new front O2 sensors, replaced the PVC valve and lines, fixed a bunch of crappy electrical connectors.

At first it ran great - then after about 30 miles, it started running rough, really bad idle, CEL with a P0300 code for random multiple misfires. One thing I noticed is that from a cold start, it would rev up to 2000 RPM then settle to a a real low and bouncy idle.

After a bunch of poking around, my new PCV seemed really loose. In particular that one short line that goes under the intake manifold.... so I had to pull that damn manifold again, and this is what I found. The new short PCV line had split off it's hose barb. Serves me right for cheeping out and using discount eBay parts I guess. There isn't enough pressure in the crankcase to cause a blowout like that, so I suspect it was made from some kind of plastic that just couldn't take the heat. I replaced that section with some 3/4" heater hose, just came back from a test drive and it's running great.

So I'd suspect that you've got a large intake air leak somewhere after the throttle body. Either in the new PCV system, or something else that should be hooked up to the intake manifold or throttle body. There's a 2" long, s-shaped rubber hose on the back of the plastic duct that bolts onto the throttle body, it's really easy to miss. Also various other vac lines that could be missing.

I suspect you’re right, at a cold start mine hits around 1800 RPM or so and drops down to around 500-700 and will stall out after about 20-30 seconds. Also trying to give it gas does nothing. You wouldn’t know I even hit the gas, even if you quickly floored it.
I don’t let it stall anymore, just was letting it run long enough to flash the CEL and run VCDS.
Looking at your photos it looks like I have the two hoses that attach to the drivers side part of the throttle body swapped around. The two with the copper. Before I ever did the 1st start of the motor I did have them on the way yours are in the photo, but there was absolutely no way I could hook them up and there be room enough for the PCV hose that runs down to it’s connection under the intake manifold. I had test fitted the PCV hoses before ever putting on the intake and could tell straight away it wasn’t quite right. I too, cheated out on that part and bought it from amazon. Honestly, I didn’t care about that due to all the posts I read about the materials integrity even if oem. So, I had already cut off that tube along with the one that goes the the right side valve cover as you’re standing in front of the engine and replaced with real hose. However, due to needing maneuverability at the crank case cover connection under the intake I did not band/clamp that connection. It could have came off or is no longer seated properly.
I think it’s a mess by that throttle body anyway. Way too much crap going in, out and around that entire area. Pretty bad engineering design if you ask me. They should have made those two specific copper connections bend at 90 degrees just like the two brass one’s, but bent towards the firewall. Then there’d be some decent room for that hose to run up from under the intake up to the PCV.
Anyway, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your response and the photos; specifically, the one showing the hoses to the copper fittings on the throttle body.
I do have a favor to ask. Would you mind uploading a photo or two (whatever you feel is sufficient), showing where/how/what vacuum hose goes over to the right combi-valve as you stand in front of the engine, and where/how/what line leads up to the front of the motor past the fuel rail connection and makes that connection up front before t-ing off over to the right side through the small passage between/in front of the right side head?
I’ve seen quite a few pics. of different set-ups with their “y” & “t” connectors and lines going here and there but no clear shots of where their lines are running to or from at the plastic plate that sets on top of the throttle body. If necessary, I can post some photos of where/how mine are running.

Thank you though again, for your response and photos.

Regards


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[ar393]

Couple questions for the OP:
1) what is the condition of the gasket under the ECU tray? is that in place? you can also see/feel it if you take off the knee bolster, and get all the way in there and look up towards where the ECU is.
2) are you plenum drains clear?
2a) is the foam/padding around the dead pedal wet?
3) are the terminals in the a-pillar (between the dead pedal and the door, below the fuse box) clean/dry/corrosion free?

My thoughts are that you have water ingress issues. Likely your CECM (address 09 part 8e0 907 279 e, "behind" your light switch) is wet and shot (mine was, had many of the same errors, replaced it and the errors went away), and also your CCCM (address 46 part 8E0 959 433 BB, under the driver's feet) is likely wet or has damage to the wiring getting to it (which also could be the terminals in the a-pillar, as mine were)

ECU Gasket protects the hole pictured here:
DSC_1389.jpg

You can see the gasket from underneath here:
DSC_1327.jpg
DSC_1333.jpg
It was not in the proper spot, so water got in.
I hot glued the gasket into the base of the ECU case so it wouldn't move around or slip when I reinstalled the ECU housing base.

A-Pillar terminals:
38354.jpg
DSC_1404.jpg
Some of the connections I was able to clean up. There were a couple that I just bypassed and used butt connectors to make the connection outside the terminal.

Damage to CECM 8E0 907 279 E ("behind" fuse box), after taken from the housing:
DSC_1410.jpg
DSC_1411.jpg
Just to be UBER safe, I put a bead of hot glue around the "new" CECM housing and screws, just in case I didn't solve the problem (I am pretty sure I did solve it when I fixed the gasket under the ECU housing).

Drying out, CCCM box at the top, right of this pic:
DSC_1384.jpg

CCCM in the black box on the right:
DSC_1380.jpg

CCCM itself (8E0 959 433 BB):
38362.jpg
Mine was OK, but the CECM had to be replaced. 40 bucks on ebay.
You can get the E or F revision of 8E0 907 279.

You will need a VAGCOM cable to program the CECM to your car.

oh one more thing, if you see the green circuit breaker/fuse thing (one of three seen) at the top of this pic, the CECM is what the three of these are attached to. I can't recall if its 10mm or 8mm nuts, but two nuts hold the CECM there.
38362.jpg

You do need to move the knee bolster to get to it (3 8mm hex bolts) and I think it was easier if I unscrewed the fuse box (to get to the left bolt of the CECM).

[Turbo510]

I just did a major service, similar to yours. - Cleaned the intake manifold and changeover valve, new vacuum lines, cleaned injectors and replaced o-rings, replaced a bunch of coolant o-rings, new thermostat, new temp sender, new knock sensors, new front O2 sensors, replaced the PVC valve and lines, fixed a bunch of crappy electrical connectors.

I just finished doing pretty much the same on mine, except for the knock and temp senders, which were OK, and the PVC valve which I'd done a few years ago. But I really appreciate your clean engine, because I know how much time it takes to get it like that. I even removed the electrical connector mounts on the firewall so I could get them cleaned and wax the paint behind them, kind of pointless effort but I like the appearance. Thanks for posting those photos!

[ar393]

Checked mouse nest I pulled from the cabin filter and no wire insulation in the nest. Still hear the crackle, sizzle, pop or whatever it is near the ECU when key placed to on position; is that normal?

NO!!! It is not normal. What car have you ever turned on that sizzles or pops when you turn it on? obviously you have electrical issues. Also how clean are your battery terminals and posts? clean and re-attach those as well.

ECU or CECM?

ECU is in the plenum in the engine bay, the CECM is on the inside of the cabin, below the ECU.
ECU:
DSC_1355.jpg

If you look in the top right corner of the hole, you can see a silver bumpy part, with a black border. That is the CECM.
DSC_1389.jpg
CECM is also the thing in the top right corner of this pic as well, from below. The front of the car is to the left.
DSC_1333.jpg

Oh, the previous owner of my car, continued to show how dumb he was by drilling a hole into the ECU housing...causing tons of water to come into the ECU housing. These were the relays under the ECU.
DSC_1359.jpg
DSC_1362.jpg
You can see the gasket out of place in the bottom right of the photo above.

More evidence of saltwater entering the cabin from the ECU housing gasket that was out of place.
DSC_1368.jpg

[lunder03]

Sorry, I’m my first initial post of this thread in the first paragraph I wrote I rebuilt the spark plugs...it should have said, rebuilt the injectors.


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[lunder03]

NO!!! It is not normal. What car have you ever turned on that sizzles or pops when you turn it on? obviously you have electrical issues. Also how clean are your battery terminals and posts? clean and re-attach those as well.

ECU or CECM?

ECU is in the plenum in the engine bay, the CECM is on the inside of the cabin, below the ECU.
ECU:
DSC_1355.jpg

If you look in the top right corner of the hole, you can see a silver bumpy part, with a black border. That is the CECM.
DSC_1389.jpg
CECM is also the thing in the top right corner of this pic as well, from below. The front of the car is to the left.
DSC_1333.jpg

Oh, the previous owner of my car, continued to show how dumb he was by drilling a hole into the ECU housing...causing tons of water to come into the ECU housing. These were the relays under the ECU.
DSC_1359.jpg
DSC_1362.jpg

More evidence of saltwater entering the cabin from the ECU housing gasket that was out of place.
DSC_1368.jpg

Well I may have been a bit over dramatic with the snap, fizzle, pop or whatever and obviously I know it’s not normal, but it appears you have to play dumb on here at times to get people to respond.

Anyway, I assume that issue is inside the cabin as it sounds worse inside then when outside. Battery terminal is pretty clean on the negative, but has some corrosion on the positive...due more than likely because I’m always removing the negative terminal, but I’ll clean up the positive and start looking at the CECM and the ECU.
The ECU cover has obviously been removed/off before as the screw in the back which is hard to get to without removing the leaf guard is missing...same as the donor car. My car has a different setup than the pictures you’ve shown, as my ECU is on the other side of the firewall.
Greatly appreciate your feedback and input and I’ll post updates with photos.


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[lunder03]

Well I may have been a bit over dramatic with the snap, fizzle, pop or whatever and obviously I know it’s not normal, but it appears you have to play dumb on here at times to get people to respond.

Anyway, I assume that issue is inside the cabin as it sounds worse inside then when outside. Battery terminal is pretty clean on the negative, but has some corrosion on the positive...due more than likely because I’m always removing the negative terminal, but I’ll clean up the positive and start looking at the CECM and the ECU.
The ECU cover has obviously been removed/off before as the screw in the back which is hard to get to without removing the leaf guard is missing...same as the donor car.
Greatly appreciate your feedback and input and I’ll post updates with photos.


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[lunder03]

Couple questions for the OP:
1) what is the condition of the gasket under the ECU tray? is that in place? you can also see/feel it if you take off the knee bolster, and get all the way in there and look up towards where the ECU is.
2) are you plenum drains clear?
2a) is the foam/padding around the dead pedal wet?
3) are the terminals in the a-pillar (between the dead pedal and the door, below the fuse box) clean/dry/corrosion free?

My thoughts are that you have water ingress issues. Likely your CECM (address 09 part 8e0 907 279 e, "behind" your light switch) is wet and shot (mine was, had many of the same errors, replaced it and the errors went away), and also your CCCM (address 46 part 8E0 959 433 BB, under the driver's feet) is likely wet or has damage to the wiring getting to it (which also could be the terminals in the a-pillar, as mine were)

ECU Gasket protects the hole pictured here:
DSC_1389.jpg

You can see the gasket from underneath here:
DSC_1327.jpg
DSC_1333.jpg
It was not in the proper spot, so water got in.
I hot glued the gasket into the base of the ECU case so it wouldn't move around or slip when I reinstalled the ECU housing base.

A-Pillar terminals:
38354.jpg
DSC_1404.jpg
Some of the connections I was able to clean up. There were a couple that I just bypassed and used butt connectors to make the connection outside the terminal.

Damage to CECM 8E0 907 279 E ("behind" fuse box), after taken from the housing:
DSC_1410.jpg
DSC_1411.jpg
Just to be UBER safe, I put a bead of hot glue around the "new" CECM housing and screws, just in case I didn't solve the problem (I am pretty sure I did solve it when I fixed the gasket under the ECU housing).

Drying out, CCCM box at the top, right of this pic:
DSC_1384.jpg

CCCM in the black box on the right:
DSC_1380.jpg

CCCM itself (8E0 959 433 BB):
38362.jpg
Mine was OK, but the CECM had to be replaced. 40 bucks on ebay.
You can get the E or F revision of 8E0 907 279.

You will need a VAGCOM cable to program the CECM to your car.

oh one more thing, if you see the green circuit breaker/fuse thing (one of three seen) at the top of this pic, the CECM is what the three of these are attached to. I can't recall if its 10mm or 8mm nuts, but two nuts hold the CECM there.
38362.jpg

You do need to move the knee bolster to get to it (3 8mm hex bolts) and I think it was easier if I unscrewed the fuse box (to get to the left bolt of the CECM).

Well, this car has not seen rain in over three years, so there is definitely nothing wet currently. However, that does not negate there having been any water damage from the previous owner. As for the plenum drains, they’re probably in need of a good cleaning. I’ll pull the battery and the plate and take a peak, or I’ll just pull the battery and check with an endoscope. If I don’t see anything I’ll poor a bit of water and see if it’s draining properly at that plenum. Then move onto the one by the ECU.
After that I’ll pull up the carpet and check the wires and move onto to look over the ECU before going into the cabin to mess with with the fuse box and CECM and all that fun stuff. Obviously something or things have a short. You’re probably right on point though as to what’s wrong and in need of replacement/repair.
Hey, thank you for those photos and very detailed instructions along with your input...it’s invaluable to me.

Regards


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[lunder03]

Well, this car has not seen rain in over three years, so there is definitely nothing wet currently. However, that does not negate there having been any water damage from the previous owner. As for the plenum drains, they’re probably in need of a good cleaning. I’ll pull the battery and the plate and take a peak, or I’ll just pull the battery and check with an endoscope. If I don’t see anything I’ll poor a bit of water and see if it’s draining properly at that plenum. Then move onto the others.
After that I’ll pull up the carpet and check the wires and move onto to look over the ECU before going into the cabin to mess with with the fuse box and CECM and all that fun stuff. Obviously something or things have a short. You’re probably right on point though as to what’s wrong and in need of replacement/repair.
Hey, thank you for those photos and very detailed instructions along with your input...it’s invaluable to me.

Regards


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[slacktide]

I do have a favor to ask. Would you mind uploading a photo or two (whatever you feel is sufficient), showing where/how/what vacuum hose goes over to the right combi-valve as you stand in front of the engine, and where/how/what line leads up to the front of the motor past the fuel rail connection and makes that connection up front before t-ing off over to the right side through the small passage between/in front of the right side head?

I don't just have a photo... I have a PowerPoint. I did make one small change from the factory setup, I moved the Y-fitting that splits off to the combi valves from on top of the solenoid plate to underneath it. Just a cleaner look.

First, here's what it looked like before I messed with it, and the vac diagram. The vac system on this car is not too complicated compared to what cars looked like in the 1980s. Google the vac diagram for an RX7, or a carbureted Honda Civic.







Here's how I routed the vac lines at the front and back of the engine. I used 3.5mm black silicone line - I'm not into all that fluorescent stuff.

[Turbo510]

The vac system on this car is not too complicated compared to what cars looked like in the 1980s. Google the vac diagram for an RX7, or a carbureted Honda Civic.

Ha, my wife had a carburetor Civic when I met her, the thing developed a problem with right-hand turns, stalling the engine. She took it to the Honda dealer where she bought it, and they totally screwed us over. Someone there actually squirted fresh engine oil onto the clutch, then told her it needed a clutch in addition to the carb rebuild. I had driven it to the dealer that morning, then got my car from my wife and went on to work. She tried to drive it after I told her to just pay the diagnostic charge and leave, and it was barely drivable due to the clutch slippage. This was when I was young and didn't know how to deal with situations like this.

Later I worked for Mazda R&D during the RX-7 era, and yes, those Mazda carbs had a forest of rubber hoses.

[slacktide]

Later I worked for Mazda R&D during the RX-7 era, and yes, those Mazda carbs had a forest of rubber hoses.

Found the Honda diagram. Don't you miss the olden days when cars were simple like this? And so simple to troubleshoot with no OBD.

[slacktide]

Looking at your photos it looks like I have the two hoses that attach to the drivers side part of the throttle body swapped around. The two with the copper.

I don't think that would hurt anything - that's the coolant passage to warm up the throttle body.

[lunder03]

I don't just have a photo... I have a PowerPoint. I did make one small change from the factory setup, I moved the Y-fitting that splits off to the combi valves from on top of the solenoid plate to underneath it. Just a cleaner look.

First, here's what it looked like before I messed with it, and the vac diagram. The vac system on this car is not too complicated compared to what cars looked like in the 1980s. Google the vac diagram for an RX7, or a carbureted Honda Civic.







Here's how I routed the vac lines at the front and back of the engine. I used 3.5mm black silicone line - I'm not into all that fluorescent stuff.

Yeah that Civic vacuum diagram looks like a complete, orderly mess...like a hurricane of headache and frustration...lol.
I used to have an 04 Civic Ex...probably will be disgraced, outlawed and shunned for sharing that, but I really loved that car. I was almost done with all my upgrades. In fact, had just dry fitted and made a few grinding adjustments to my side skirts the night before it was wrecked. Had planned on vinyl wrapping them and putting them on when I got home from work. Unfortunately, the car never made it home. Man that car loved to run, didn’t matter how cold it was outside it started right up by the second crank every time. Black & Silver...there’s still posts of it in the “7th Gen. civic forum” I believe is the name.

Anyway, back to your post. It looks like I’ve run everything correctly with only slight variations. I ran mine from the back to the front along the fuel rail to make that T connection, but I think I’ll reroute some hoses like yours on the plate above the throttle body to clean a bit of that hose mess look up. Mine are 3.5 mm red, but I haven’t replaced the hose from the combi-valves as they’re 3.5mm black and you don’t see them until they’re on the (what I’ll refer to as), the throttle body top plate. I think I’ll split the hose though before it’s visible and make them red. I’ll also have to do the front again in red as I broke the long piece that slides into the intake (forgot the parts name, just remember it’s a bit pricey to replace), after I had replaced those lines. So, in turn I cleaned up the donor cars manifold and that led to painting the intake along with the valve covers. Will have to do some touch up on it thanks to the gas from the fuel rail when I pulled some injectors and hadn’t thought to move the whole fuel rail assembly over by the air box. Oh well.


Yeah, she was pretty dirty from dust, but I cleaned a decent amount of the car today along with some other things. Going to paint the rings and the V6 -3.0 and the outline the same color when I do the touch up work.

Anyway, I pulled the manifold today and my connection to the crank case was still seated, but I went ahead and clamped her down. Noticed, as I looked at the intake valves, what I thought was oil setting on the valves...at first I thought each new valve seal had came lose and was letting oil in, but immediately repositioned myself to highly unlikely. So, stuck my finger in and was relieved to find out it was gas. At least I know I did a good job lapping the valves, so that’s a relief.

Let’s see, I didn’t get to checking the plenum yet since I confirmed that area as well as the drivers side cabin floor is bone dry. So I moved onto the ECU box. Just as I suspected, someone had been in there before me and instead of removing the wipers and the leaf guard, they must have just broke it off so I’ll have to buy a new cover. I pulled out the ECU, but am still puzzled as to how to detach both connections. The main/big pin is accessible, but the other has a guard on it. So, I’m guessing remove the main connection and maybe it’ll give me room to remove the other. I’ll have to find out how to disconnect those properly so I don’t break anything.


Let’s see, I put that aside until I can locate my double jaw puller and remove the wipers, and leaf/debri-guard and did some cleaning before I went in to remove the fuse and two trim panels. Upon removing those and getting ready to remove the knee bolster, I noticed a few lines from an old sub & amp set up running to a small box with two terminals going into which I assume would have been from the amp. Of course there’s some wires coming out of that box (which looks cobbled) going into what appears to be the fuse panel. Now there’s some decent split wire connectors on there and the job almost looks professional until you see the wires coming out of the little box I mentioned and exactly what was spliced into remains to be seen. There was also one other flat and the color black 3/16 - 1/4” wide wire coming from not sure yet and leading on to who knows...which runs right up the floor board and firewall then disappears. Maybe to the back of the stereo??? Guess I’ll find out, but with one small frustration leading to another and another and finally, another I decided to stop there for the day.

Will get some pics up of what I find there tomorrow. And by the way...thanks a million for that easy to follow diagram...I forgot all about pulling photos into PowerPoint and being able to pretty much do anything with a photo...it’s been quite awhile since my college days. Kind of you lose it if you don’t use it.

Regards


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[lunder03]

I don't think that would hurt anything - that's the coolant passage to warm up the throttle body.

Are we talking about the same two? These two have copper fittings which lead right into the throttle body and I think help control the air & fuel mixture. The other two brass fittings just do a closed loop and lead into the coolant piping. In regards to the copper fittings, one sets closer to the manifold than the other. I got to thinking...I remember I had taken photos of when I tore the car down and placed the hoses as they were to go back on and the line coming from the left side (as you stand in front of the car), goes on top and the line coming from the right side goes below. See the lower left side of the pic.

Probably doesn’t really matter in regards to performance, but it does make a difference for me and the install of the PCV set up...lol.

I don’t know, what do you think? Think it matters which one really goes where for those fittings too???


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[lunder03]

NO!!! It is not normal. What car have you ever turned on that sizzles or pops when you turn it on? obviously you have electrical issues. Also how clean are your battery terminals and posts? clean and re-attach those as well.

ECU or CECM?

ECU is in the plenum in the engine bay, the CECM is on the inside of the cabin, below the ECU.
ECU:
DSC_1355.jpg

If you look in the top right corner of the hole, you can see a silver bumpy part, with a black border. That is the CECM.
DSC_1389.jpg
CECM is also the thing in the top right corner of this pic as well, from below. The front of the car is to the left.
DSC_1333.jpg

Oh, the previous owner of my car, continued to show how dumb he was by drilling a hole into the ECU housing...causing tons of water to come into the ECU housing. These were the relays under the ECU.
DSC_1359.jpg
DSC_1362.jpg
You can see the gasket out of place in the bottom right of the photo above.

More evidence of saltwater entering the cabin from the ECU housing gasket that was out of place.
DSC_1368.jpg

Well I’m not real sure how to detach the pin connection to the ECU yet...but after removing my two trim pieces in the cabin I found and old I think amp line running to a box that is tapped into one of these connections in your photo

Looks cobbled up to me. I also found another flat wire about 3/16-1/4” wide, it’s black running from the back somewhere and then up the drivers side and runs up the firewall somewhere? I assume from the old amp & sub setup...maybe it leads to the stereo? Not sure, will post a photo tomorrow. Pulled back the carpet and foam padding a bit and didn’t see any discoloration or water marks, but will pull the knee bolster tomorrow and take a close look at what was spliced into and see about removing it before going on to check all those connections. Will tackle the ECU again tomorrow after I put the intake back on and attach the throttle body and PCV connections again.

I guess my positive terminal is pretty clean too, thought I remember it being a little crusty. I’ll also being removing the power wire that’s attached to the positive terminal running power I assume to the amp that was in the trunk. Big thick nice wire, must have a pretty decent size amp judging by the gauge or wire used.

Heck I wouldn’t be surprised if this old set up isn’t the cause of the electrical issues considering what I’ve seen so far. Shit spliced into near the fuse box, wires in the trunk just cut and setting there. Some weird controller setting in the cubby hole by the stereo, which now that I think about, is probably where that flat black wire leads to?!

Time will tell.

Regards.


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[ar393]

I pulled out the ECU, but am still puzzled as to how to detach both connections. The main/big pin is accessible, but the other has a guard on it. So, I’m guessing remove the main connection and maybe it’ll give me room to remove the other. I’ll have to find out how to disconnect those properly so I don’t break anything.

I never actually disconnected my ECU, I just took it out and flipped it over and laid it on my intake manifold area.
DSC_1390.jpg


Also, make sure the previous owner didn't break your ECU housing and try to repair it like this:
DSC_1365.jpg
....also, get the missing screw, it is important to keep the housing watertight.

[ar393]

I’ll also being removing the power wire that’s attached to the positive terminal running power I assume to the amp that was in the trunk. Big thick nice wire, must have a pretty decent size amp judging by the gauge or wire used.

Heck I wouldn’t be surprised if this old set up isn’t the cause of the electrical issues considering what I’ve seen so far. Shit spliced into near the fuse box, wires in the trunk just cut and setting there. Some weird controller setting in the cubby hole by the stereo, which now that I think about, is probably where that flat black wire leads to?!

I would remove any of that old stuff that goes nowhere.

but just a heads up, here is a scan before I replaced the CECM:

VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.2.2 (x64)  HEX-V2 CB: 0.4508.4
Data version: 20200210 DS308.0

Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
          67 69 75 76 77
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06C-909-559-ASN.lbl
   Part No SW: 8E0 909 559 E    HW: 8E0 909 059 
   Component: 3.0L V6/5V      G   0004  
   Coding: 0016711
   Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
   VCID: 372B2D4A4352CFDF38F-5160

2 Faults Found:
16805 - Warm Up Catalyst; Bank 1 
            P0421 - 001 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
16815 - Warm Up Catalyst; Bank 2 
            P0431 - 001 - Efficiency Below Threshold - MIL ON
Readiness: 0000 1000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 614 517 H
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      1728  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 2615F00E91F84657939-51F2

3 Faults Found:
00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44) 
            30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded 
            35-00 - -
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85) 
            66-10 - Not Matched - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 820 043 L
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1116  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 2A0D043E85E06237B71-5160

1 Fault Found:
00710 - Defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V107) 
            41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  RDW 0305  
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 34311A46572424C71DD-4B00

1 Fault Found:
01753 - Windshield Wiper Motor (V) Stage 1 
            31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 655 C
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        2000  
   Coding: 0010607
   Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
   VCID: 372B2D4A4352CFDF38F-5184

1 Fault Found:
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 
            001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenksáulenmodul     0308  
   Coding: 02042
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 3E25386E6968FE97FB9-4B00

1 Fault Found:
01426 - Controls in Steering Wheel (E221) 
            49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 920 950 L
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D36  
   Coding: 03200
   Shop #: WSC 05314  
   VCID: 323D1C5EAD302AF70F1-5184
   WAUVT68E73A346543     AUZ6Z0C0063197

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr        Labels: 8E0-959-760.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 760 
   Component: Sitzmemory R2 F     0305  
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 71BFD352688651EF36B-4B3C

1 Fault Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393) 
            79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
   Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortgerát T7B    1311  
   Coding: 12044
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 72BDDC5E6DB06AF7CF1-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
   Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0003  

   Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0003  

16 Faults Found:
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 
            29-00 - Short to Ground
00962 - Alarm via. Tilt Sensor 
            35-00 - -
01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch 
            35-00 - -
01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch 
            35-00 - -
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15 
            35-00 - -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side 
            35-00 - -
01572 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Passenger Side 
            35-00 - -
01574 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Right 
            35-00 - -
01573 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Left 
            35-00 - -
00955 - Key 1 
            35-10 - - - Intermittent
00956 - Key 2 
            35-10 - - - Intermittent
01403 - Glass-Break Sensors; Rear 
            36-10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387) 
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388) 
            53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01561 - Rear left door 
            59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01562 - Rear right door 
            59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range        Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
   Part No: 4Z7 907 357 
   Component: dynamische LWR       D09  
   Coding: 00060
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 04518A8647345447EDD-4B5C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 035 195 F
   Component: symphony II NP2    0051   
   Coding: 01005
   Shop #: WSC 03751  
   VCID: 2A0D043E85D06237B71-4E62

No fault code found.

End----------(Elapsed Time: 05:20, VBatt start/end: 14.4V/14.2V)-----------

Here is the scan after:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06C-909-559-ASN.lbl
   Part No SW: 8E0 909 559 E    HW: 8E0 909 059 
   Component: 3.0L V6/5V      G   0004  
   Coding: 0016711
   Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
   VCID: 372B2D4A4352CFD3A28-5160

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0010 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
   Part No: 4B0 614 517 H
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      1728  
   Coding: 04495
   Shop #: WSC 12345  
   VCID: 2615F00E91F8465B09E-51F2

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8E0-820-043.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 820 043 L
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1116  
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 2A0D043E85E0623B2D6-5160

2 Faults Found:
00710 - Defroster Flap Positioning Motor (V107) 
            41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 
            30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect.        Labels: 8E0-907-279-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 907 279 F
   Component: int. Lastmodul  RDW 0517  
   Coding: 00011
   Shop #: WSC 00000  
   VCID: 353727425C5E3DC3B04-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8E0-959-655-84.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 655 C
   Component: Airbag 8.4EP        2000  
   Coding: 0010607
   Shop #: WSC 63351 000 00000
   VCID: 372B2D4A4352CFD3A28-5184

1 Fault Found:
01222 - Crash Sensor Side Airbag; Passenger Side (G180) 
            011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 8E0-953-549.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenksáulenmodul     0308  
   Coding: 01042
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 3E25386E6968FE9B61E-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8E0-920-9xx-8E2.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 920 950 L
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D36  
   Coding: 01400
   Shop #: WSC 05314  
   VCID: 323D1C5EAD302AFB956-5160
   WAUVT68E73A346543     AUZ6Z0C0063197

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 36: Seat Mem. Drvr        Labels: 8E0-959-760.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 959 760 
   Component: Sitzmemory R2 F     0305  
   Coding: 00002
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 71BFD352688651E3ACC-4B3C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv.        Labels:. 8E0-959-433-MAX.clb
   Part No: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortgerát T7B    1311  
   Coding: 26444
   Shop #: WSC 12345  
   VCID: 72BDDC5E6DB06AFB556-4B00

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E1959801
   Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0003  

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8E1959802E
   Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0003  

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8E0959801A
   Component: Tõrsteuer.HL BRM 0003  

   Subsystem 4 - Part No: 8E0959802A
   Component: Tõrsteuer.HR BRM 0003  

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range        Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
   Part No: 4Z7 907 357 
   Component: dynamische LWR       D09  
   Coding: 00060
   Shop #: WSC 63351  
   VCID: 04518A864734544B77A-4B5C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio        Labels: 8E0-035-1xx-56.lbl
   Part No: 8E0 035 195 F
   Component: symphony II NP2    0051   
   Coding: 01005
   Shop #: WSC 03751  
   VCID: 2A0D043E85D0623B2D6-4E62

1 Fault Found:
00879 - Connection to Speaker Front Right 
            36-00 - Open Circuit

End----------(Elapsed Time: 01:42, VBatt start/end: 12.1V/12.1V)-----------

the remaining codes were due to the corroded connections in the a-pillar terminals. once those were butt-spliced, they went away as well.

[lunder03]

I never actually disconnected my ECU, I just took it out and flipped it over and laid it on my intake manifold area.
DSC_1390.jpg


Also, make sure the previous owner didn't break your ECU housing and try to repair it like this:
DSC_1365.jpg
....also, get the missing screw, it is important to keep the housing watertight.

Yeah, previous owner or whomever was in there broke the top cover, base is okay. And I managed to save all the screws. Glad I read your post as I had planned to just disconnect the ecu.


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[ar393]

If you want to really make your life easy... Well maybe not easy but more room, disconnect the linkage from the wiper motor (lookup resetting wiper bed position) and remove the whole assembly (once you get your puller to get the wiper arms off).

[03silverA4]

Thank you for all this awesome info! My A4 was sitting in the desert for 3 years before I bought it, gonna go check the CECM this weekend. I have had some weird stuff happen...

[Turbo510]

Found the Honda diagram. Don't you miss the olden days when cars were simple like this? And so simple to troubleshoot with no OBD.

If it wasn't for the fact that I'd actually seen that rats nest, I would think that was a joke diagram.

[lunder03]

I slacked off yesterday...heading to the car now to get back at it.


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[lunder03]

So, removed the windshield wipers and pulled the debri guard, then pulled the ECU out of its compartment and laid it on the valve cover so to speak. Detached the connections at the connection plate below where they had set. Noticed a little nick in one of the wires with the white connector so I fixed that w/ electrical tape. Moved into the cabin to take a pic. of the old stereo controller I had been promising. I believe those two red wires are the ground if I remember correctly?.

Located all the stereo wiring and the guy who used to own this is lucky it never caught on fire! Look at this wire.



This ran from the drivers side a-pillar area, was spliced into an existing power wire, ran along the firewall over to the passenger side, then underneath all the base door trim, up under the back seat and into the trunk. Just about every foot of this is toast...can you say bigger gauge required. Didn’t cheap out on the main power to the positive terminal of the battery though. Here’s what was pulled from the old stereo set up.

Going to have to spray foam that boot there for the hvac lines to ensure water stays out. There’s two holes in it as I figure the installers first hole ran right into the lines so a bit to the left and down got him through. That ran to the back tucked in with the fried wire to the trunk. Pulled the other two lines which ran along the drivers side to the trunk. The flat wire about 1/4” was a CAT wire of some sort which ran to the cubby under the steering wheel to a little controller. The other was for the speakers or amp as near as I can tell which ran to another controller stashed in the footwell hidden by the cover plate which you see can see the controller in the 1st photo.

Anyway, removed the knee bolster which were 8mm bolts. Removed the foot plate and pulled the carpet & foam back a decent ways to look for water and visible wire damage. There was some rust at the clip connection at the base of where the plastic foot rest connects in...probably rain/snow water from drivers foot, but nothing that I could see along the floor had any damage to the wires or from water. Found a wire running to the steering column that had a little nick in it, but nothing that would cause a short, but I threw a little electrical tape on it too. As for the wire that was roasted, that was spliced into I believe a power wire which after removing the clip on connector left half the wire in use so will have to finish the damage and butt connect it back together.

I’m hoping this is my main problem. But I’ve located the CECM and I’ll pull that out tomorrow and look at it. I sincerely doubt it’s damaged.

So here’s a good question...if I reconnect the red wire for the ECU, can I check for power on the four connectors that set under the ECU or do I have to reconnect them and try checking them while clipped in from the top?

Oh, cracked my windshield taking off the drivers side wiper. Honestly, I’m not mad at all because I had planned on replacing it anyway because there’s a nice gouge line/mark on the passenger side from someone (probably previous owner) running the wipers while the passenger side wiper blade was gone and the metal wore a line in the glass. Just looks really annoying anyway and I don’t need it chewing up any new blade I put on that side. Cracked glass top right.



So, that’s where I’m at. Still haven’t put the intake back on yet...maybe tomorrow?

Lastly, where’s a good place to upload a video? I would like to post a video of the sound the car makes when I place the ignition to the ON position. Now that the ECU is disconnected I know it’s not coming from there...also, I can hear it more clearly now and it’s not a snap, fizzle or pop; it’s more like a click-click sound, but almost electrical. Hard to explain hence, a video.


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[lunder03]

Couple questions for the OP:
1) what is the condition of the gasket under the ECU tray? is that in place? you can also see/feel it if you take off the knee bolster, and get all the way in there and look up towards where the ECU is.
2) are you plenum drains clear?
2a) is the foam/padding around the dead pedal wet?
3) are the terminals in the a-pillar (between the dead pedal and the door, below the fuse box) clean/dry/corrosion free?

My thoughts are that you have water ingress issues. Likely your CECM (address 09 part 8e0 907 279 e, "behind" your light switch) is wet and shot (mine was, had many of the same errors, replaced it and the errors went away), and also your CCCM (address 46 part 8E0 959 433 BB, under the driver's feet) is likely wet or has damage to the wiring getting to it (which also could be the terminals in the a-pillar, as mine were)

ECU Gasket protects the hole pictured here:
DSC_1389.jpg

You can see the gasket from underneath here:
DSC_1327.jpg
DSC_1333.jpg
It was not in the proper spot, so water got in.
I hot glued the gasket into the base of the ECU case so it wouldn't move around or slip when I reinstalled the ECU housing base.

A-Pillar terminals:
38354.jpg
DSC_1404.jpg
Some of the connections I was able to clean up. There were a couple that I just bypassed and used butt connectors to make the connection outside the terminal.

Damage to CECM 8E0 907 279 E ("behind" fuse box), after taken from the housing:
DSC_1410.jpg
DSC_1411.jpg
Just to be UBER safe, I put a bead of hot glue around the "new" CECM housing and screws, just in case I didn't solve the problem (I am pretty sure I did solve it when I fixed the gasket under the ECU housing).

Drying out, CCCM box at the top, right of this pic:
DSC_1384.jpg

CCCM in the black box on the right:
DSC_1380.jpg

CCCM itself (8E0 959 433 BB):
38362.jpg
Mine was OK, but the CECM had to be replaced. 40 bucks on ebay.
You can get the E or F revision of 8E0 907 279.

You will need a VAGCOM cable to program the CECM to your car.

oh one more thing, if you see the green circuit breaker/fuse thing (one of three seen) at the top of this pic, the CECM is what the three of these are attached to. I can't recall if its 10mm or 8mm nuts, but two nuts hold the CECM there.
38362.jpg

You do need to move the knee bolster to get to it (3 8mm hex bolts) and I think it was easier if I unscrewed the fuse box (to get to the left bolt of the CECM).

Pulled the ECU and pulled the four connectors attached to the black plate under the ECU housing. All was bone dry, no crust or any visible damage aside from one wire in the white connectors wire group having a tiny nick which I wrapped with electrical tape just for piece of mind.

Have also pulled the CECM, there is no visible damage and the entire unit is pristine on the inside..outside nearly as good, but outside normal exposure conditions made a little difference on the metal plate that’s screwed down holding the circuit board. Nothing that concerns me. Posted some photos.








As for the CCCM I still have to pull that and check the wiring to that too. I guess I’ll just buy another CECM and see if it takes care of the problem...


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[ar393]

I guess I’ll just buy another CECM and see if it takes care of the problem...

Looks pretty clean to me. why throw money away. Have you cleared and checked the errors since pulling all the crap wiring?

[lunder03]

Looks pretty clean to me. why throw money away. Have you cleared and checked the errors since pulling all the crap wiring?

No, but I did check each circuit on the CECM circuit board and found that 3 or four were bad...soooo, it is faulty.
Actually found which one controls the hazard lights as testing it with a multi-meter activated them. Kinda cool.
Think I’ll pull the CCCM and Headlight range controller too. Just have to be sure the battery and connections to the c. board remain connected whether it requires any said boards removal from the housing or not. In the case of the CECM/CCM I had to remove the board. It’s kind of difficult to line up the connections to the pins properly.

Just steer clear of any capacitor(s). That’s the bigger circular object on the board in the pic. below.

So, my next question to you ar393 is...once I’ve replaced with a working one, how do I go about programming with VCDS? Have a legit cable and software.


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[ar393]

Just steer clear of any capacitor(s).

Yeah, I learned that the hard way when I was about 14 and discharged one from a camera flash. it was about 10 minutes before I fully had use of that arm and hand again.

So, my next question to you ar393 is...once I’ve replaced with a working one, how do I go about programming with VCDS? Have a legit cable and software.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...riolet_(8E/8H)

[lunder03]

Turbo510 & ar393 is this part supposed to be whining, like a higher pitched noise after turning the ignition to the “ON” position. Or a noise at all for that matter. It’s not really loud, but if you’re in a quiet place you can hear it and I tracked down. The sound is more prevalent at the connector.

Will be putting in the new CECM either tomorrow or Sat. as it’s due to arrive tomorrow. As for the CCM, pulled that out looked it over...looked okay, but reconnected the circuit board to the connections and checked it with a multi-meter and it too had a few bad locations with no continuity. Unfortunately, that part is a few days behind the other.

Lastly, where’s a good place to upload a video so the sound it makes when I turn the to the “ON” position can be heard?

Staying patient...

Please see photos.

Regards.





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[ar393]

Youtube or vimeo are easy places to upload videos.

If you need I can take photos of my vacuum lines.

I know on my b5.5 passat with my 2.8l v6 30v motor, there is a diagram on the hood of the vacuum lines (I am actually replacing all those lines in the vw as I do the TN, t-stay, tstat housing, WP, camshaft seals/caps, vcgs (done a year ago with plugs, wires, coil pack, just bein
cleaned and put back) engine snub mount, aux coolant pump hoses, other coolant hoses, ps hoses). I would assume our A4s have it too. Let me know if you need pics.

[lunder03]

Youtube or vimeo are easy places to upload videos.

If you need I can take photos of my vacuum lines.

I know on my b5.5 passat with my 2.8l v6 30v motor, there is a diagram on the hood of the vacuum lines (I am actually replacing all those lines in the vw as I do the TN, t-stay, tstat housing, WP, camshaft seals/caps, vcgs (done a year ago with plugs, wires, coil pack, just bein
cleaned and put back) engine snub mount, aux coolant pump hoses, other coolant hoses, ps hoses). I would assume our A4s have it too. Let me know if you need pics.

Youtube or vimeo are easy places to upload videos.

If you need I can take photos of my vacuum lines.

I know on my b5.5 passat with my 2.8l v6 30v motor, there is a diagram on the hood of the vacuum lines (I am actually replacing all those lines in the vw as I do the TN, t-stay, tstat housing, WP, camshaft seals/caps, vcgs (done a year ago with plugs, wires, coil pack, just bein
cleaned and put back) engine snub mount, aux coolant pump hoses, other coolant hoses, ps hoses). I would assume our A4s have it too. Let me know if you need pics.

Oh no, I’ve run all my vacuum lines, those are good. I was wondering if that part that I circled in green in the picture is supposed to be making a pretty low, but distinguishable kind of high pitch whining noise when the key is placed to the ON position?

Yeah, Turbo510 provided that info. and I’ve made it a point to know where they all run. But I thank you just the same for the offer.

I will however, be looking into Vemo, and I think I have a YouTube account...if not I’ll make on and post the video.

Thank you!


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[lunder03]

Turbo510 & ar393

Please see video of odd sound.

Thank you.

https://youtu.be/p2jA2FNLtos

Note: this video is in relation to the clicking sound and Not the pitched sound coming from the device I’ve circled green in the photo.


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[ar393]

Turbo knows way way way way more than I do but I'm not really hearing anything "wrong". But again, I am a very green d-i-y mechanic.

[lunder03]

Turbo knows way way way way more than I do but I'm not really hearing anything "wrong". But again, I am a very green d-i-y mechanic.

That’s cool...I appreciate your responding all the same.


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[Turbo510]

Turbo510 & ar393 is this part supposed to be whining, like a higher pitched noise after turning the ignition to the “ON” position. Or a noise at all for that matter. It’s not really loud, but if you’re in a quiet place you can hear it and I tracked down. The sound is more prevalent at the connector.

I just went out to my car, and also heard the whine noise. But after disconnecting the secondary-air solenoid valve (item in your picture) the noise was still there. I'm sure that it is coming from the throttle actuator, and must be perfectly normal.

[lunder03]

I just went out to my car, and also heard the whine noise. But after disconnecting the secondary-air solenoid valve (item in your picture) the noise was still there. I'm sure that it is coming from the throttle actuator, and must be perfectly normal.

I just went out to my car, and also heard the whine noise. But after disconnecting the secondary-air solenoid valve (item in your picture) the noise was still there. I'm sure that it is coming from the throttle actuator, and must be perfectly normal.

Okay cool, thank you for confirming. Yeah, I’ve yet to actually drive this car...I’ve had it over oh, four to five years. Tore apart the upper motor for rebuild and it set roughly three years before I got back to it.

Just picked up another project...2000 Civic...don’t think the guy really knew what he had...bought for his son, but he didn’t get his license so it sat a bit. Dad was tired of son’s procrastinating and decided to sell it. Said he didn’t really care what it was really worth, just wanted what he bought it from a friend for his son for.

It’s decked out, previous owner had $20,000 invested. For the price I couldn’t pass it up; will be picking it up Fri. Interior is stock aside from the stereo, but a lot was done to the motor and body. Heck the paint job must’ve have cost quite a bit.

100,001k miles on the clock
Greddy turbo (not sure which one yet)
Edelbrock intake
In the trunk is a torsion or torque bar
Not sure which header or exhaust but exhaust is a single to duel, double split tip performance exhaust.
Forgot to check the suspension...was a lot to look at.
Msd ignition
Upgraded injectors (not sure what cc yet)
Carbon fiber hood
Rear spoiler
Body kit
Cold air intake
Performance rims & tires
Boost & MAF gauges
Etc., etc.
tinted windows all the way around
custom paint job
Interior stock as mentioned but clean.
Automatic blah, blah, blah
Stack of paperwork, receipts, etc.

This car has been tuned and is very quick, but there’s some issues with turbo lag and backfiring. Guy I bought from said the turbo alone cost $3500 at time of purchase.
Guy said he had his mechanic look at it, but he didn’t know much about tuned vehicles. I really hope the paperwork will tell me what stage tune it has as it will give some kind of idea as to the clutch plate in it. It runs and drives down the road...it looks like it has a turbo boost controller and some kind of stand alone management system...maybe fuel? I really don’t know yet...I want to see what’s under the valve cover. Missouri car, has no rust. DOHC...a stock motor of this particular 1.6l is 160hp. This has a lot more than that! I’ll know a lot more about it once I get my hands on the paperwork. Still wondering if it’s a vtec motor as well.

Sorry if I offend anyone who may read this for posting and talking about a civic on this forum.

If I mentioned how much I paid I think most would have bought it.






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