AMB to AEB conversion in progress

[Gunnarrrrr]

Figured I'd make a compilation of info here rather than reviving all of the old threads, and also clear up some new questions that may or may not have been addressed.

Thread: AEB Head on AMB block

Thread: aeb head swap questions

So far my understanding is that:

1) Swap over your exhaust cam gear
2) Swap over your CCT from your old head if you want to keep VVT (you can resistor out the connector to not throw a CEL)
3) Take stud off your AMB head for tensioner adjuster and swap onto the AEB head
4) Use an AMB timing belt kit
5) All the above must be done!

1. Assuming its a stretch bolt, it should be replaced with a new bolt - 06A109281A or the reusable ARP option ARP-06A-02
Might as well replace the seal as well since its off - 038103085C
2. Swapping CCT, keeping AEB cams as they're worn in together with the cam caps and head from the AEB already.
3. I have an IE tensioner, so reusing that stud instead IEBEVA5-S15
4. Reusing my Gates Kevlar belt TB306RB
5. Swap impulse rotor and cam position sensor from AMB as well 06B905234A might as well replace the front seal also. I'm assuming this isn't a stretch bolt, necessary to replace? N01024230
6. Reusing ARP bolts from my AMB, as 06A block=06A bolts ARP-204-3901
7. Intake Manifold Spacer adapter until I can source a good large port manifold 034-108-9000
8. Reuse valve cover from AMB
9. Delete SAI SAI System Delete

Am I missing anything?

[Gunnarrrrr]

[Gosser]

1. I've re-use cam cap bolts before with out issue, just make sure you dont over torque them when they go back in. Definitely put a new cam seal in.
2. I was under the impression to use the AMB cams, with the AEB caps. Shouldnt be an issue, people swap cams for BNIB cams all the time. If you are worried to could compare/measure AMB vs AEB journal dimensions.
5. Cam sensor bolt, I've reused that as well many times.
9. Did any AEB ever come with SAI? I didnt think they ever had provisions for it, so its naturally deleted.

Everything else looks good!

I would do the gasket and half moon seal under the CCT.

[Seerlah]

Cam "cap" bolts are not torque to yield bolts. The torque for those bolts are 7 ft/lbs and need be torqued down in a certain sequence. They also need to be removed in a certain sequence (really, just even distribution from the valve spring tension). The cam "gear" bolt is stretch to yield and should be replace every time. Can't recall tq spec off the top of my head, but something like 27 ft/lbs or something in that area. Cam tone ring bolt is also "not" a stretch bolt. I suggest loctitie on both external cam bolts.

You don't want to swap cam caps from head to head. If in a pinch, swapping one or two won't hurt anything when it comes to repair. But the caps must stay original to the head because they are line honed from the factory together. If you swap caps, you can cause major scoring on the journals if they are too much out of wack. And if not scoring, I assume your oil pressure would be greatly affected with the oil pressure hitting the head first. Since it is a closed loop system, loss of pressure in one area will effect another. It can can cause a domino effect of damage for other areas of the engine.

[Gunnarrrrr]

That was my understanding for swapping any cams or cam caps. On a previous head build I accidentally snapped a cam cap in two not following the tightening sequence.

That's also 7ft/lbs dry, and if any oil is on those threads you'll end up trying to remove them later down the road and snapping several T30's in the process.

[wdries]

I am in progress with the same project. I will let you know if I come across anything else.

[BumblebVR6]

Same cams can be used in the small port and large port head correct? Is the intake manifold bolt pattern the same as well on both heads? May pick one of these up for a later build.

[Gosser]

Same cams can be used in the small port and large port head correct? Is the intake manifold bolt pattern the same as well on both heads? May pick one of these up for a later build.

You can swap cams between AEB and AMB heads, with no issues. As mentioned, there might be concern with cams wearing into caps/the head, but I wouldn't be concerned with that to be honest. People upgrade and swap cams all day long without any issue. Just keep the cam caps OG to their respective head and position and you'll be fine.

You can use a small port intake on the AEB head, bolt pattern is the exact same. I believe 034 makes a tapered spacer to pick up on the port dimension variations. Otherwise you should taper the outlet on your small port intake manifold to match the AEB head ports. Not sure if there is enough material to do this to be honest. Other considerations is fuel injector rail, coolant pipe, and TB adjustments. I think the threads in the OG post touch on those items.

[prizmatik]

What’s the benefit to swapping from AMB to AEB?

[Gunnarrrrr]

What’s the benefit to swapping from AMB to AEB?

it took me a whole 5 minutes before even realizing this was my thread lmao but ummm this aeb setup moved a ton of air when I logged it. that’s just a quote from Dave at motoza.

I blew up my shitty eliminator and went to an AWM though. I’ll probably run an AEB for the next setup. Nothing wrong with more intake air and less exhaust bottleneck (to a point)


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[EuroxS4]

AEB head is a large port head vs the small port of every other 1.8t engine. That being said AEB flows more air but at a lower velocity. AEB is good if you plan on making alot of power as it will flow more at the redline vs a small port.

[Gunnarrrrr]

smaller turbo: AWM
anything bigger than a g25: AEB
planning on only lasting 20 miles: AMB


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[TobiqueSlang]

What’s the benefit to swapping from AMB to AEB?

The AMB head is prone to cracking between cylinders over time so most people will eventually swap it to a better one, usually an AEB because it's stronger and has larger ports.

[Mike Tries]

smaller turbo: AWM
anything bigger than a g25: AEB
planning on only lasting 20 miles: AMB


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Hey, easy on the AMB. They last at least A HUNDRED times as long as that in the real world!

[BumblebVR6]

Ended up building an AEB head to try out. Was time for a timing belt, and wasn’t sure of the condition of my current head. I know it had been replaced previously as there was no code stamped on it. It was a German cast small port head, that’s all I know. The exhaust guides were worn when I removed it, but looked ok for the most part. I had my machine shop go thru the head and they replaced the exhaust guides, installed Supertech valves, BC springs/retainers, then I installed new lifters and BC cams. Car runs well. Using a 28rs on APR manifold. Motoza tuned but nothing crazy since the bottom end is still original. I have a motor I built w/ AWP head on it currently with similar build to the AEB. Trying to keep this combo going till I can get a long enough break to swap the motor and do a few more supporting mods at the same time.







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