B7 S4 Intake Manifold Bolts Part #? (2 types) (Valley Pan Gasket Change)

[jayden.world]

Hello all.

I'm going to do valve cover gasket replacement soon (oil check valves KIT DIY from ECS Tuning)

I checked the quality of the bolts and I fear that one or more bolts will not budge and get stuck due to being old.

Could I get the part number for the intake manifold bolt(Allen type bolt) and the valley cover bolt?
Also could I get the part number of the bolts for the mani fold cover bolts?(valley pan cover bolts? not sure but it is the torque/star shape, not allen)


I will attach an image here.





Also I found this image and it seems like I don't need to unscrew the star shape bolts and just lift the whole cover together by only unscrewing the allen bolts which hold the intake manifolds?
I was going to paint the cover anyway, so I m thinking of taking it out separately though.




Thanks for your help!

[Zolli]

Correct; you do not need to remove the top half of the intake manifold for this service. The green-circled Torx fasteners in your photo.

I don’t know the part number, but some others have simply replaced the bolts with new ones from Ace Hardware rather than the OEM ones. Doing so lets you use a different head pattern if you wanted.

[Zolli]

Oh! A tip, if you haven’t already heard: get a blower attachment for your compressor if you don’t already have one, and blow the crap out of the crap that has settled down in those grooves there. You do not want any particles or debris to fall into your combustion chambers (it’ll cause scoring)

[All_Black_A4]

Pretty sure It's part #8 in the drawing....or the ones in the purple circles in your picture. Yeah the intake isn't exactly like the B6/B7 S4 but the correct part # for it is in the list on the right side.
Check the link.


https://www.ilcats.ru/audi/?function...81&language=en

That website is actually pretty helpful for finding part numbers and such. The drawings are super helpful.
Maybe I'm late to the party and everyone's been using it for years but better late than never

[jayden.world]

Correct; you do not need to remove the top half of the intake manifold for this service. The green-circled Torx fasteners in your photo.

I don’t know the part number, but some others have simply replaced the bolts with new ones from Ace Hardware rather than the OEM ones. Doing so lets you use a different head pattern if you wanted.

Thank you for your reply.
I was actually thinking of painting the top cover because mine is not in dark grey but in old beige looking aluminum... so I think I will need those torx fasteners in the green circle.

And thank you again, I'm ordering the separate bolts from Amazon and it's significantly cheaper that way. Not sure if I should order HEX type or same Allen type though but HEX type seems to be much more pricy than the allen type.

- - - Updated - - -

Pretty sure It's part #8 in the drawing....or the ones in the purple circles in your picture. Yeah the intake isn't exactly like the B6/B7 S4 but the correct part # for it is in the list on the right side.
Check the link.


https://www.ilcats.ru/audi/?function...81&language=en

That website is actually pretty helpful for finding part numbers and such. The drawings are super helpful.
Maybe I'm late to the party and everyone's been using it for years but better late than never

Thanks! haha I've been looking for a site like that.


For me, I've been relying on the Audi PArts USA site but it is not that clear tbh when it comes to finding a part like that.

[jayden.world]

Oh! A tip, if you haven’t already heard: get a blower attachment for your compressor if you don’t already have one, and blow the crap out of the crap that has settled down in those grooves there. You do not want any particles or debris to fall into your combustion chambers (it’ll cause scoring)

I will try my best to clean everything and wipe out once I reveal the intake manifold and valley pan area (that's where you mean the groove right?).
Thank you for the tip as I was not fully aware of it.

I also saw another member mentioning that it's the best to turn on the engine after I do the oil check valves DIY for about 7-10 mins and then change the engine oil as the old engine oil will collect all the possible particles and debris.

[jayden.world]

Correct; you do not need to remove the top half of the intake manifold for this service. The green-circled Torx fasteners in your photo.

I don’t know the part number, but some others have simply replaced the bolts with new ones from Ace Hardware rather than the OEM ones. Doing so lets you use a different head pattern if you wanted.

btw it says M6 x 35 but I'm not sure about the threads...
Will any M6 x 35 bolt fit instead of the soft silicone audi bolts?

[VinnysS4]

btw it says M6 x 35 but I'm not sure about the threads...
Will any M6 x 35 bolt fit instead of the soft silicone audi bolts?

Yes. Go to the hardware store or Baxter auto if you have one, and buy some bolts of a better grade. They sell the exact size you have in the car. Hex head and all


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[Zolli]

I will try my best to clean everything and wipe out once I reveal the intake manifold and valley pan area (that's where you mean the groove right?).
Thank you for the tip as I was not fully aware of it.

I also saw another member mentioning that it's the best to turn on the engine after I do the oil check valves DIY for about 7-10 mins and then change the engine oil as the old engine oil will collect all the possible particles and debris.

Sure. And definitely change out the oil and filter. I added Liqui-Moly Engine Flush (2 cans for the V8) after the check valve service but before changing the oil. Run at idle (I didn’t drive it around so as to reduce the load on the motor) until warm (20-30 minutes) so the oil in all the little places has moved around, and then drain it all out. Then replace the oil. Liqui-Moly green or blue jugs work great, so does the Motul Excess 5000 or 5500 or 5100 or whatever the number is. I used to use Mobil 1, which was fine, but the LiquiMoly and Motul oils keep the engine quieter, which to me, is more fine. About two or three changes ago, I added two cans of LiquiMoly’s Ceratec because what the hell. Seems to work well based on the scientific experiments I’ve conducted with my right foot and third pedal.

[Zolli]

Yes. Go to the hardware store or Baxter auto if you have one, and buy some bolts of a better grade. They sell the exact size you have in the car. Hex head and all


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Vinny’s right. I’ve done this a few times myself. For bolts and related fastener hardware, I’ll just bring a good one with me to the store and match it. Sometimes the metric threads are 1.0 (1 thread 1mm apart), sometimes they are 1.25, 1.5..... you can measure yourself if you have a metric ruler. Occasionally the size is stamped on the head.

That said, some parts only seem to work if you get genuine Audi (one-time use bolts, vacuum valves and pumps, for instance).