B8 A4 Avant Manual Transmission Avant DIY

[jjvwg]

First off, I want to put some things out there...

• thanks to Pierre B's thread on audiworld for letting us know that this is a possibility without a bunch of electronic module issues!
• I am a big believer in factory repair manuals, Audi Erwin is a great resource and you cant beat it for the price. you should really have it if you are doing something of this nature (or any serious repair work for that matter) for things like wiring diagrams, torques specs, etc.
• I assume no liability for any persons car other than my own given the information that will be shared here. Different model years, engine codes, and trim levels/options can affect wiring/coding and parts needed.

Now that that's out of the way, I wanted to get this information out there since I know there are a lot of people that would like to carry this out. I am a wagon freak and mad that this was never an option here in the US. I want to see more of these happening!

The goal of this DIY is as follows:

• parts needed/part numbers (for the people that are needing to piece parts together as I am)
• wiring
• coding
• detail the pedal box removal/install (it took my friend and I 4 hours to strip my driveline from the parts car i robbed, 1 hour was just to get the pedal box out!)
• any significant items to point out with any hardware changes during the swap
• anything else i feel is pertinent to include along the way.

What this DIY wont cover is everything with a fine tooth comb. I do not plan on showing things like how to do an actual clutch job or most of the driveline swap (ECS tuning has a great set of instructions for that on their website and again, the factory repair manual is a great resource as well.

My swap is taking place in a 2011 CAEB avant, premium plus trim level with no keyless entry option/push start, 8 speed ZF trans with no paddle shifters. At some point down the line, i will probably look at wiring for B8's with the 6 speed auto and b8.5 allroads as I'm sure there are a lot of interested parties in that group as well but given that I don't own either of those vehicles it would be up to someone else taking that project on to discuss the specifics. Hopefully this can turn into a community thread for all things B8/B8.5 6 speed swaps as more people do this.

Parts needed (parts mentioned may be VIN specific)

• transmission with shifter box (and shiftknob) - let it be known that the stationary push rod is matched to the shifter assembly. There are part revisions D and E for 8K0-711-271 and E has a wider mounting bracket that attached to the shifter assembly, they cannot be swapped out.
• transmission mount (8K0-399-151-BD) and chassis cross member (8K0-399-263-AF)
• driveshaft
• rear differential
• axles - Per part numbers front axles are the same for manual and auto B8's. The rear axles will depend on the production date as there was a change in mid august of 2011. Depending on the production date of your car and your donor car you may need to get the rear axles as well.
• pedal assembly with clutch master cylinder
• slave cylinder and hydraulic line
• flex/drive plate (06H-105-323-H)
• clutch stack w/ flywheel (OEM DMFW the part number is 0B1-105-266-AG in case you need a replacement, south bend will resurface for $75 plus shipping or free if you purchase a clutch through them)
• miscellaneous bits and pieces: bolts for pressure plate, flywheel, flex plate, bellhousing bolts, needle bearing, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch fork assembly bits (release arm/clip/ball pin if necessary), input/output shaft flange gaskets (my input shaft seal is bone dry, i plan on replacing the left output shaft seal (0AW-409-399/0B4-409-399-D depending on VIN). I can post more part numbers for any of these items if people would like.

Trans/Diff options:

• The B8/B8.5 utilizes 6speed 0B2 transmissions with an intermediate drive ratio of 31:29 (1.069) and final drive ratio of 38:11 (3.455) on the 2.0T motors. There are quite a few transmission codes that carry these ratios that can be found in 2.0T A4's/A5's.
• individual gear ratios can be different between the different transmission codes and can also utilize different half shaft flanges and rear diffs. Can't say for certain but I would think that the half shaft flange differences are few and far between. information on all three of those items can be obtained from the audi parts catalog if necessary. It is always easiest to obtain a complete driveline from a single car but it is not absolutely necessary as long as you match up the proper parts
• drivelines can pulled from either A4's or A5's but as I recently learned while helping someone complete a 7spd DSG swap to 6MT on a south african market A4 sedan using an A5 driveline, the drives shafts are different lengths due to the different wheel base length. In this case, the proper drive shaft needs to be sourced still matching the chassis its going into.
• markets that received 6MT B8.5 allroads had longer final drive gearing (29:8/3.625) on those transmissions. I would assume that the B8.5 allroad just uses an a4 ECU as the B8 avants did but not sure if the ECU would adjust for the correct gearing if you code it for a 6MT and allroad body. it may default to the A4 gear ratios. not sure what effects that would have. There is at least one canadian market allroad that was swapped so it is possible.

[jjvwg]

Wiring

T6g (t6ag on S4's) is the 6 pin black connector at the clutch switch on the master cylinder
T17q is the red 17 pin connector in the ECU plenum
T32b is the 32 pin black connector at the J519 module

Early B8 cars (up through october 2011 production dates)

⦁ T6g/1 (brown) to ground (370 ground connection 5 in main wiring harness) - I ran this ground to the "639 - Ground connection on left A-pillar" which is the ground post behind the lower A-trim pillar just below the hood release latch.

⦁ T6g/5 (violet/grey) to parking brake module (J540) T30a/25

⦁ T6g/4 (red/Brown) to 5A fuse at fuse position 10 (ST1, fuse panel C)(fuse slot fed from J329 terminal 15 power supply relay, will have power as this fuse currently powers shift lock solenoid and selector lever sensor system control module in auto car, will need to cut and splice into this wire to feed to T6g/4, per p.576)

⦁ T6g/6 (black/red) to 5A fuse at fuse position 2 (ST2, fuse panel C) (this fuse slot is empty on auto cars, power side of fuse slot to be fed from B146 positive connection 1 (87) in interior wiring harness, which ties into T17q/16) - The power feed from T17q/16 breaks off to multiple locations, one feeding to T17e/17 which is behind the red 17 pin connector behind the lower A pillar trim just below the hood latch. T17e/17 feeds the brake light switch. I tapped this wire to supply power to one side of the fuse as its nearby and the same size wire that should be feeding the fuse and closer to the fuse box.

⦁ T6g/2 (green/grey) to T94/43 at ECU (J623) via T17q/9**

⦁ T6g/3 (blue/grey) to T94/20 at ECU (J623) and T32d/28 at the CCM (J393) via T17q/12**

⦁T17q/11 (grey/white) wire from pin 1 on transmission range gear recognition switch (F208) to T32b/13 at J519 (vehicle electrical system control module)***

⦁ Pin 2 at F208 to 132 ground connection 3 in engine compartment wiring harness - I ran this ground to "12 - Ground Connection in engine compartment, left" which is the one just forward of the ECU plenum.

⦁ T17q/10 (blue/red) from pin 3 at F208 to T32b/21 at J519***

**T17q/12 feeds between the TCM (J217) and park selector switch (F305) on the auto car, both of these wires will need to be de-pinned on each connector half of T17q/12. for the manual trans wiring, the body harness side of T17q/12 will feed to T6g/3 on the clutch pedal sensor and will need to tie in to the wire removed from the body harness side of T17q/9 that goes back to T32d/28 at the CCM (J393), engine harness side will be get wire currently at T17q/9 which feeds to T94/20 at the ECU (see below).

**T17q/9 feeds to the CCM (J393) on the body harness side to T32d/28, and the ECU (J623) at T94/20 and TCM on the (J217) on the engine harness side in the auto harness. Note the ECU pin...this is where we need to run T6g/3 to via T17q/12. The existing black/blue wire at T17q/9 (engine harness side) should be moved to pin 12 and the body harness side should be de-pinned. with both connector halves now empty, T17q/9 can now be used to run between T6g/2 and T94/43. The original wiring from T17q/9 to the CCM T32d/28 needs to tie into the circuit at T17q/12 as described above.


***T17q/10 and T17q/11 are used for the gear selector sensor on auto cars. These wires will have to be de-pinned and new wires put in place to run the transmission range gear recognition sensor wiring.

****transmission neutral position sensor (G701) is used on cars with push button start. I have not been able to find anything in the wiring diagrams for this sensor

Following this wiring should allow for only two cuts into the existing wiring harness!

Fuses SB1 and SB12 can be found in the ST1 ECU plenum fuse box and they power the TCM. Both of these fuses can be removed.

For those of you that have the audi erwin wiring diagrams in PDF format:
parking brake module p. 196
clutch position sensor p.373
transmission range gear recognition sensor p.378
Auto ZF8 p.573-577

I took the engine/ECU plenum wiring from my donor car, so i have all of the wiring i need there, but for the additional wiring in the car the following wire repair kits are needed:

• fuse box fuse slot wiring: 000-979-023-E
• parking brake control module: same pin type as the ECU. i stole one from there.
• T32b connector at J519: 000-979-009-EA

drivers side fuse box


J519 T32b connector (under drivers side dash, tucked up behind another fuse box/relay holder)


behind this




parking brake module connector (passenger side trunk hatch, PB ECU mounted to floor of trunk)


T17q red 17 pin connector (ECU plenum, body harness side shown)


Late B8/B8.5 cars (production dates from november 2011 and on)

• T6g/1 (brown) to ground (370 ground connection 5 in main wiring harness)

• T6g/5 (violet/grey) to parking brake module (J540) T30a/25

• T6g/4 (red/Brown) to 5A fuse at fuse position 10 (ST1, fuse panel C)(fuse slot fed from J329 terminal 15 power supply relay, will have power as this fuse currently powers shift lock solenoid and selector lever sensor system control module in auto car, will need to cut and splice into this wire to feed to T6g/4, per p.569)

• T6g/6 (black/red) to 5A fuse at fuse position 4 (ST2, fuse panel C) (this fuse slot is empty on auto cars, power side of fuse slot to be fed from B146 positive connection 1 (87) in interior wiring harness, which ties into T17q/16)

• T6g/2 (green/grey) to T94/43 at ECU (J623) via T17q/9**

• T6g/3 (blue/grey) to T94/86 at ECU (J623) via T17q/12**

G604 gear recognition sensor (on transmission) wiring:

Pin 3 – grey/red wire to T94/52 at J623 (ECU)

Pin 2 – grey/white wire to T94/48 at J623 (ECU)

Pin 1 – The auto car should have a black/blue wire running from pin 3 of the brake booster pressure sensor (G294) to T94/59 at J623 (ECU). Pin 1 from G604 should get spliced into this wire.


**T17q/9 feeds to the CCM (J393) on the body harness side, and the ECU (J623) at T94/20 and TCM (J217) on the engine harness side. The existing black/blue wire at T94/20 (ECU, engine harness side) should be moved to T94/43 at the ECU (wire color will be wrong if that bugs you), and the wire on the body harness side should be spliced with the wire going to T6g/2 on the clutch position sensor.

**T17q/12 feeds between the TCM (J217) and park selector switch (F305) on the auto car, both of these wires will need to be depinned on each connector half of T17q/12. body harness side will feed to T6g/3, engine harness side will get wired to T94/86 at ECU (J623)

****transmission neutral position sensor (G701) is used on cars with push button start. I have not been able to find anything in the wiring diagrams for this sensor

[jjvwg]

Coding

The following coding differences are comparison between my existing coding and my fiance's 6 speed sedan coding. That being said, the coding itself on other cars may be different depending on whatever bits are selected in the long coding depending on options the car has. This will effect the hex coding on each byte. What will stand true for all B8 vehicles doing this swap would be the bits I call out that need to be modified. As stated earlier, others doing this swap may have additional options such as keyless start, hill assist, etc. that will affect the coding further. I cannot speak on those items.



In terms of the ABS coding, Byte 0 does not have any information available in the long coding helper but from knowledge of earlier chassis coding, this is affected by what transmission is in the car. Talking to Ross-Tech, they have suggested to use the coding that is present on the fiance's car. Unless Pierre can chime in on his coding or i can get someone from the otherside of the pond to give some input i will go this route and see if i get a code. again, per knowledge of older chassis's (and assuming the B8 is similar) the ABS coding is typically looking at chassis, body type, motor, brakes, transmission, etc. So theoretically the only thing it may throw a code for is incorrect coding given it would be coded for a sedan. We'll see what happens here.

***update 6-7-20***

Can confirm ABS coding from the sedan works. this is the only module you will have to log in with the security code before it will allows you to make coding changes to it.

Also, in addition to the above you will want to also, uncheck the auto trans module in the installation list in the CAN gateway so that the car no longer looks for the TCU module. Otherwise it will always pop codes in the auto trans and CAN gateway modules for no communication

[jjvwg]

Will be sure to keep this updated as I stated earlier. Have more part orders coming this week and should be sending out my DMFW for resurfacing next week. then i just need to get a clutch and get into the car to pre wire as much as i can. Once that is done I just need to figure out a good weekend to do this. Should happen by end of June the latest.

[jjvwg]

made some progress over the past couple of days. pulled my headliner to fix the sunroof leak (still leaks ), and got my wiring for the parking brake module in overhead.







[


Found a nice little surprise when going to wire into pin 25 of the PB module connector...im pretty sure the germans did this to spite any american doing this swap. The PB module connector is actually 2 seperate connectors bundled into one bigger connector. The connector for the smaller gauge wires is different between the auto and manual cars. As you can see in the pictures below the ones from my car (grey colored) does not have an actually pin space at 25, just a filled "dummy" hole. checking agaist my fiances car, she had a blue connector in hers that had that space open and a wire in it obviously.

while the design of the connector is somewhat two piece, the pins themselves lock into the larger black connector. In order to pull the smaller grey connector, the wires need to be de-pinned in order to pull it out. once I had done that, i drilled out the connector to pass a wire through. Because of the design, the hole does not need to be big enough to fit the pin through, i pushed the wire through the other end and then pushed the wire and connector into the larger connector at the same time.








updated my main post but the repair wire part number i got for this connector was wrong. the pin is the same as the ones in the ECU connector though so i stole one from there to make the connection.

Also added in the wiring for the new fuse at fuse position 2 and also the wires going to pins 13/21 at T32b. Also added the clutch position sensor harness into the car and ran it back into the foot well for now. Next weekend I'll add the transmission range sensor wiring into the main engine harness and tie in as much of this wiring as i can.



I chose to not go through the main portion of the rubber bung out of the ECU plenum as the goop it is sealed with is super nasty, sticky stuff. I popped out the side with the clutch sensor wiring harness and glopped silicon around the wires inside the boot to seal it up.






My flywheel should arrive at southbend tomorrow for refinishing and a new needle bearing. pushed my new pilot bearing into the drive plate today. Also drained the oil from the transmission in preparation for some new fluid. need to make a stop at my local dealer sometime this week. I had to order a new stud that the clutch lever in the bell housing sits on and the one i got per part numbers online is longer than the original. need to figure out whats going on there. once i get word from southbend that my flywheel is reusable and on its way back i will place an order for my clutch and SS slave line and then ill have everything i need to knock this out. currently shooting for the weekend after memorial day.

[A4 Centaur]

Outstanding!

[jjvwg]

Outstanding!

thank you, this forum subsection has needed this DIY for far too long!

[jjvwg]

update from memorial day weekend:

• southbend could not salvage the flywheel from the donor vehicle so I ended up buying the full stage 2 daily kit. also picked up a stainless steel slave line to get rid of the delay valve.
• rear diff got new fluid
• sorted out my clutch hardware issue after talking to multiple dealers (more on this below)
• finished wiring the car (more on this below)

clutch fork and associated hardware:

as shown below, the original ball pin for the clutch release arm that the clutch fork pivots on was damaged. there is no part number on it and the only thing I could find online (which matched the VIN) was 0B1141777B which is the one shown to the right. As you can see, there is a length discrepancy. The issue is that while there is nothing in the system for the old ball pin, the old clutch release arm part number applicable to the short ball pin still stands and is available (012141751C), which is what was again confirmed by my VIN. So at that point it was pretty concerning that I had a longer ball pin with a mismatched release arm and worries that this would change the clutch engagement. After multiple conversations with ever horrible parts department salesmen and some luck looking on ECS, i finally was able to piece together that with the newer ball pin part number, there were updated clutch release arm and clutch fork part numbers (0B1141751 and 0B1141719K).

Long story short, if your ball pin is fine but either of the other parts are needing replaced order the matching part numbers. if you need to replace the ball pin, you need to complete the trio.



wiring all finished up minus one piece:

i made some updates in the wiring section up above. what is listed out is straight from the wiring diagrams, however for things like ground and power tie in that are crimped connections of multiple wires in harnesses its not really ideal to undo that factory crimp to add a wire and you also need to have a crimp tool available. I added how i treated some of those above and have a few pictures below.

shown below is where i grounded the clutch position sensor and also the T17e/17 tie in point for power to the ST2 fuse position 2 slot.





transmission range gear recognition switch wire harness tied up out of the way but ready to go once the 6MT is in place. swapped out the aged and cracking plastic wire loom for some high heat covering as well.



final wiring all cleaned up in driver foot well, complete with factory cloth wiring tape. unfortunately its not as clean as i wanted but the my repair wire from fuse slot 2 to the clutch position sensor wiring was just long enough to have a tiny bit of slack and make the connection without having to add a second butt splice to gain some length. I like to have the least amount of splices as possible.





I did make one big change to the way I did the wiring for the connections at T17q/9-12. Instead of waiting to depin/repin during the harware portion, i decided to use one of the T17 connectors from my donor harness to add a separate connector just for those wires. I did this in order to:

1. make a motor pull easier. i may be way off base here, but when i pulled the wiring from the donor vehicle, it appeared that the rubber boot that the clutch sensor, MAF and other misc. wiring goes out through is casted into the lower portion of the ECU plenum as i had to break it out of the plastic. Again, i may be way off base here, but that would appear to mean that you need to pulled the lower ECU plenum to get the rest of that wiring out, some of which goes to the engine wiring harness and some of which goes to the chassis harness. This is a mystery to me and i didnt bother looking at the fiances car but I figured a separate connector made this a non-issue.

2. allows to keep the main harness in tact and untouched. This isn't as big of a deal as my original way of the depin/repin is about the cleanest way possible, but the spade pins on the engine harness connector side are a much harder to get out than normal and i messed a few up on the donor harness. I did not want to risk messing this up on my actual harness.

3. doing the separate connector allows you to 99.95% complete the wiring before you ever do the swap! the only thing going this route requires you to do once you actually go to finish the swap out is to depin/repin the wire at pin 20 on the ECU (I already have the new wire to pin 43 at the ECU in place and ran another wire for the connection to pin 20 and just left it under the connector cover to tie in down the road.

here you can see the new wire going to pin 43 at the ECU and the duplicate wire going to pin 20 at the ECU


shots of extra connector in ECU plenum. once i figure out how much slack i will have to pull back into the ECU plenum from the transmission range gear sensor harness, the rest of the wiring will be finished in the factory cloth tape.




Pedal assembly will be swapped in this coming weekend and I will post up on that portion then. motor/auto trans will be pulled starting friday 6/5 and will hopefully be back up and running late saturday night/ early sunday!

[eljay]

Thanks for the great detail!

Do you need to pull the motor too? I thought tranny can come out and manual one canbe installed without pulling the motor.

[jjvwg]

Thanks for the great detail!

Do you need to pull the motor too? I thought tranny can come out and manual one canbe installed without pulling the motor.

While I would love to be able to go that route (especially considering there is so much working room in the b8 engine bay you could damn near undo every bellhousing bolt from the top side and no splines to line up when putting the tranny back in), unfortunately I’m just working off jack stands in my garage. This usually makes it very difficult to go that approach and sometimes (not sure if anyone’s done it with the b8) you may not have enough room to get the trans out from under the car. The way I see it, pulling the engine/trans gives me an opportunity to clean the engine bay and look over all corners of the motor and replace any parts that may need fixing. Debating picking up a HFC and go stage 2 at the same time since it will be easy to access the 4 exhaust nuts. Would have pulled the trigger already if the clutch parts didn’t double in price because I couldn’t reuse the flywheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eljay]

That makes sense.
I've never done it, but I've heard the same that it's easier to just pull the eng8ne and tranny together especially with 4-cylinders.

[the_pirate]

I’ve got an 09 Avant now and wondered if this was possible. I did the same swap in my B5 A4 fairly straight forward and no wiring involved (that I remember. Did this in 2011/12). Looking forward to the finished product!

[jjvwg]

one day after work this week i was able to get the clutch installed and get the new trans fluid in the gearbox. Also got the rear diff fluid changed out as well,so those are ready to go into the car.

Also spent yesterday morning swapping in the pedal set. brake pedal connection to the booster was just as bad as i remembered it and the tool i bought to make this easier didnt work. Not sure if i bought a poorly designed tool but it just doesnt seem posibble to get the ball to pop out of the holder.. the fit is extremely tight and it takes a lot of pressure to get the plastic flaps that hold it in place to budge. I went at it the same way I did when stripping the parts car, although it was a little more difficult than that time because the master cylinder was still in place, so i couldn't just spin the brake booster while my buddy held the threaded rod on the back side of the pedal. All in all it took 3.5 hours to swap the pedal assemblies out from start to finish. If i had to guess, this is the worst part of the swap! ym ribs are sore today from laying over the door sill in the footwell. Its extremely weird to drive around with the extra pedal there but surprisingly I haven't had a brain fart and accidentally pushed it yet.

Pedal Assembly Swap

***anyone with the audi repair guides handy can reference the brake system PDF in the "mechanical components" section on how to remove the pedal assemblies***

In order to swap the pedal assembly out, you need to pull the steering column. While this might sound daunting, its fairly basic and takes about 30 minutes.

With the lower dash cover removed, you need to remove the footwell vent and then proceed to remove the upper steering column cover.



Once this is completed, there are 9 bolts (5 M10, 2 M8, and 2 13mm) that need to be removed that hold the assembly in, along with 5 small bolts (10mm) that hold the brackets that the upper portion of the footwelll dash cover clips in to. These need to be removed in order to reach some of the upper steering column bolts.

left side of steering wheel (looking from seat)



right side of steering wheel (looking from seat). notice the missing M8 bolt in this picture, you need to remove that bolt before you can remove the upper dash bracket mentioned earlier.



bolts on the underside of the steering column. The two 13mm bolts attached the upper portion of the pedal assembly to the steering column. The one at the bottom of the picture hold the different sections of the steering shaft together.



Once you remove all of those bolts along with the dash panel supports, you can drop the steering column to the floor. There are three electrical connectors that need to be undone, 2 directly behind the steering wheel (airbag and steering wheel controls) and one towards the back of the steering column (assuming for the wiper, turn signal, and cruise stalks. Undo those and the 2 wire supports and you can pull the whole steering column out of the car.



moving onto the pedals...



There are 4 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the pedal assembly in. Two of those bolts were the 13mm's removed earlier to get the steering column out. The other two bolts are long 12 point 10mm ones that need to be accessed at the brake master cylinder under the cowling in the engine bay. they sit inside of two larger nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster (sorry, didnt take a picture of this). These do not need to be fully removed (they cant be unless you have the false firewall out of the way), just loosened enough to disengage the pedal frame. Lastly there are two 10mm nuts at the base of the pedal assembly in the footwell.



my advice would be to leave these in place until you get the brake pedal disconnected from the brake booster.

Now for the fun!

If you can use the proper tool to release the brake booster from the pedal this portion of the swap will be cake. If you have to do what i did, well...sorry. The brake booster has a threaded rod coming out of it and at the pedal there is a threaded coupling that has the ball mounted to it that clips into the backside of the pedal. In my case, I had to unthread the two to disconnect them.

threaded coupling on back of auto brake pedal



What makes this even harder when pulling out the auto brake pedal is that the threaded coupling is shorter than on the manual brake pedal by probably 1/2-3/4". As you can see in the pic above,there is plastic shroud around this connection point which makes it hard to get a wrench up on it (16mm wrench by the way). I took a pair of tin snips and cut the shrouding back closer to the metal frame of the pedal stem so i could get a wrench in. Not shown, there is also a nut backed up to this coupling to lock in in place. The threaded rod from the brake booster has a small flat section built into it to hold it as well (10mm wrench). I needed to loosen the 10mm nuts and the brake booster bolts slighting in order to get a little play in the pedal assembly to get the threaded rod undone. once you have that complete you can undo the bolts and nuts the rest of the way and pull out the pedal. install of the the manual pedal assembly is the reverse of the above. If you did your wiring already like I have, you can pull your clutch switch connector through and plug it in and I also fed my slave line in and made that connection right away as well. Then just feed your tube that supplies the clutch master cylinder with fluid from the fluid reservoir through and bolt the pedals back into place.



Steering column install is the reverse of removal as well. Finish up by putting the dash panel back in and then if you do this sap in stages like I am, you'll be left with a goofy looking car that has 3 pedals and an auto shifter.

[KingCC]

Great thread - Thanks for putting this together! Sub'd!

[jjvwg]

Here we go!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Audi 4 Life]

Cant believe i never saw this thread. i just did this swap awhile ago been driving on it for lil over a year now but one thing i wanted to point out for those who wish to do this.

I highlly reccomend getting the code LRY transmisision with crown diff. This is the reason for the 2 different driveshafts you mention above one is for the torsen and other crown diff. Obviously anyone doing this would want to swap to crown diff to have a nice added bonus with the manual swap.





Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[jjvwg]

Cant believe i never saw this thread. i just did this swap awhile ago been driving on it for lil over a year now but one thing i wanted to point out for those who wish to do this.

I highlly reccomend getting the code LRY transmisision with crown diff. This is the reason for the 2 different driveshafts you mention above one is for the torsen and other crown diff. Obviously anyone doing this would want to swap to crown diff to have a nice added bonus with the manual swap.





Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Hmm wasn’t aware of that. I have an LLT, the fiancé’s car is LRY. Too late now for me! Feel free to share any other solid info in this thread. Hoping to have mine mostly buttoned up today, maybe a few small things to finish off tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jjvwg]

wanted to give an update from the swap over the weekend.

The good:

• car now has a stick shift in the center console to match the pedals
• ABS coding from the sedan didn't throw a fit (see coding update above for info on changing the installation list in the CAN gateway as well)

The bad:

• car has one code currently, 03279 implausible signal at the clutch pedal switch for engine start (F194) in the J393 module. It appears that I missed one wire in all of this that wasn't obvious due to differences in wiring diagrams, but something i had actually questioned early on in my wiring research. I found it odd that the J393 module had coding options for manual/auto trans but i only saw the auto trans having wiring going back to this module. I thought maybe if the auto coding is present it tells it to look for signals from those wires and if the manual coding is present to just ignore it. Looking back at the wiring today, under the clutch pedal switch wiring diagram in the standard equipment section, it shows a wire going back to T32d/28 from T6g/3, the same pin that T17q/9 feeds to at the J393 module for the auto trans. The clutch pedal switch under the CAEB motor wiring diagrams does not show this connection. I will test this tomorrow by running a jumper between the old T17q/9 wiring in my original harness and the T6g/3 wiring in my new connector added. Pretty sure that will clear this code up. will update once i know.
  
• all of a sudden I have a "defective ignition switch" warning popping up on the dash. no codes at all for this one, just the dash signal. Have done some research and seen that this can be something as simple as dirt buildup on the keyfob/in the ignition switch or some micro sensors going bad inside the switch. something tells me this wasn't a coincidence. I had changed all the coding prior to tearing into the car as I have known on the older chassis that sometimes having a fault code present in the module will not allow for coding changes (according to ross-tech this is not true for all modules and very much dependent on software related to the module). Being that I didn't want to risk the possibility of not being able to code something, i did all the coding before hand as stated above. This lead to a situation of not being able to turn the car off or being able to pull the keyfob out. I went back in and changed the coding on the acc/start auth. module back to auto trans and this fixed that. I then changed this back to the manual coding before the first start up and that is when I started to get the warning. According to VCDS, the acc/start auth. module is part of the J393 which is where the code above is coming from. Im wondering if these are somehow linked. worst case, i will buy a new ignition switch and replace it.

The ugly:

Started prepping the car thursday night and pulled the motor on friday, as well as installing the new driveshaft and rear diff installed. Saturday my buddy came over to help me split the engine/trans, and mate up the manual trans. This is where the stupidity happened. I know for a fact that when the trans was not bolted to the motor, the clutch stack spun freely with no noise. After we bolted up the manual driveplate to the motor we made the mistake of not giving it a few turns to see that there was no issue. Visually there didn't appear to be. once we bolted the flywheel to the drive plate we had noticed that there was one spot while turning the motor over that made a slight noise and got just slightly tougher to rotate. Between our combined 35 years of wrenching on cars (8 of his as a porsche tech.), we made the dumb choice of not splitting them back apart and having a look and thinking it was something small that would work itself in quickly after first start... that was not the case. so of course we regretted our choice immediately and now we will be having to pull the motor again. Luckily this time we can just pull the motor and leave the trans in the car. planning on doing that the weekend after next.

Overall, im super happy but bummed at the same time. seems that would we not have been stupid and spent a little extra time yesterday morning, we would have had a better outcome and I could have been putting some break in miles on the car today. will be fixed soon enough i guess. Will update as usual in regards to the noise and the code/ignition switch issue.

out with the old, in with the new

[jjvwg]

Good news from today!

• getting the missing wire i mentioned in my last post tied in got rid of the code and the ignition switch malfunction dash warning (wiring section updated).
• found the issue that is creating the noise.

something that would have never crossed my mind while researching this was the seal around the starter on the side closest to the crankshaft. I noticed this when we were putting the engine/trans together and saw it looked a bit out of place and moved it a bit. my friend was working that side when we got them aligned and he apparently never paid attention to it. interestingly enough, this seal is something that only auto cars got, the manual cars don't need it for whatever reason. i confirmed this on my fiance's sedan. If i would have caught this in my research it would have never been a problem, but i never thought to look at the starter situation anymore because both cars use the same starter. so not only did we leave it in, but because my friend wasn't paying attention to it, it actually got caught between the block and the bellhousing. this is causing the metal spacer between the block and bellhousing to get pushed into the backside of the drive plate where the bungs for the clutch module bolts reside. luckily i dont need to pull the motor, but i will have to undo the clutch module bolts and loosen the bell housing bolts so i can pry the engine and trans apart a little bit to get the seal out. so yea, if anyone else ends up using this DIY, DO NOT USE THE STARTER SEAL!

pic of metal spacer with circled bung where clutch module bolt screws into. just below you can see some remnants of part of the seal. I cut some of it out of the way to get a better idea of what was happening.

[jjvwg]

Felt motivated after work today to pull out the offender and no more noise! Just gotta fill it with coolant and throw the front bumper back on tomorrow afternoon. Again, manual transmission cars do not get this seal, pull it out immediately once you break the engine and transmission apart!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Audi 4 Life]

Hmm wasn’t aware of that. I have an LLT, the fiancé’s car is LRY. Too late now for me! Feel free to share any other solid info in this thread. Hoping to have mine mostly buttoned up today, maybe a few small things to finish off tomorrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking great lots of progress.

That's too bad on the the crown diff it is amazing and totally changes the cars handling. But you still have options. You can do the stasis center diff upgrade. Which I've heard is well worth it I was going to do it on mine until I got the info for the crown and sold my kit. But it can still be done for those with early gen manual transmissions.



Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[jjvwg]

Looking great lots of progress.

That's too bad on the the crown diff it is amazing and totally changes the cars handling. But you still have options. You can do the stasis center diff upgrade. Which I've heard is well worth it I was going to do it on mine until I got the info for the crown and sold my kit. But it can still be done for those with early gen manual transmissions.



Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Been loving it so far! Almost a hundred miles into clutch break in. Looking for any reason to drive since I hardly get out with the COVID situation right now. Whole new car, only problem is now I actually want to do more mods (I was content with it where it was due to it being a semi boring auto daily)! Have an APR downpipe/stage 2 upgrade arriving tomorrow as well as a eurocode intercooler pipe (OEM plastic pipe appeared to be sweating a lot of oil blow by and wanted to get rid of the extra sound deadening resonator that T’s off that pipe). Probably won’t do any diff upgrades and just drive it as is but you never know what could come down the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[hardfive]

Been loving it so far! Almost a hundred miles into clutch break in. Looking for any reason to drive since I hardly get out with the COVID situation right now. Whole new car, only problem is now I actually want to do more mods (I was content with it where it was due to it being a semi boring auto daily)! Have an APR downpipe/stage 2 upgrade arriving tomorrow as well as a eurocode intercooler pipe (OEM plastic pipe appeared to be sweating a lot of oil blow by and wanted to get rid of the extra sound deadening resonator that T’s off that pipe). Probably won’t do any diff upgrades and just drive it as is but you never know what could come down the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work man. Well done.

[pierreb]

I never figured out the defective ignition switch message and just ignore it. The other car near me with this swap has the same message.

P.s. I did a sunroof swap when my roof started leaking too. The frame was cracked just before one of the rear drains, from letting the lack of lubrication shaking go on for too long. I have some YouTube vids of it if that’s of interest to anyone.

[jjvwg]

I never figured out the defective ignition switch message and just ignore it. The other car near me with this swap has the same message.

P.s. I did a sunroof swap when my roof started leaking too. The frame was cracked just before one of the rear drains, from letting the lack of lubrication shaking go on for too long. I have some YouTube vids of it if that’s of interest to anyone.

Well now you know how to fix it!

Thanks for the tip on the sunroof, I’ll have to look at that when I pull my headliner again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Audi 4 Life]

Also I forgot to mention. That for those who get the LRY transmission for crown diff must get the corresponding drive shaft cuz the connection at the center diff to the driveshaft is different for crown and torsen cars.

[pierreb]

Well now you know how to fix it!

Thanks for the tip on the sunroof, I’ll have to look at that when I pull my headliner again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah that’s great since I also have the same soft code...I’ll get my shop to take care of it since I’m terrified of the wiring...I imagine it fixes having to hit start 2x to get the car started too!

Happy to share my vids, but basically mine leaked literally right before the drain. It’s all plastic back there as you know. Got a complete used sunroof frame from a 2011 from a local yard for $150 and swapped it over two sunny days. My frame was toast from my own neglect so it was always going to shake. Even swapped my shade over since mine was black.

[Audi 4 Life]

In really wish someone could figure out the push to start defeat. That's wear a lot of wear happens I wonder if maybe for auto swap if we can somehow change it to just have it pressing brake cuz That is how auto is and we used to be auto??? I am just thinking outloud I know these ecus are smarter than B6/7 hence why I don't think anyone's figured it out yet.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[audiphila]

Congrats on doing the manual swap! I have an s4 engine/trans swapped into an avant.
I had the following questions:

1) can you clarify what wiring solved your issue for the clutch pedal switch implausible signal? I tried to follow your post, but I got lost trying to find it.
I am having the 03279 -Clutch Pedal Switch fault in Module 46 and the ignition key fault in the dash as you have. I also have the 7800 Clutch position sensor implausible signal in my 01 Engine module. Did you have an issues in the 01 module with this fault?



2) Did you have any issues with the abs module giving you a 01315 - Transmission Control Module fault? I can't get my ABS module to accept any coding for manual transmission. It keeps telling me "out of range." I wondering if your wiring would solve this for me.

Appreciate any help!

[jjvwg]

Congrats on doing the manual swap! I have an s4 engine/trans swapped into an avant.
I had the following questions:

1) can you clarify what wiring solved your issue for the clutch pedal switch implausible signal? I tried to follow your post, but I got lost trying to find it.
I am having the 03279 -Clutch Pedal Switch fault in Module 46 and the ignition key fault in the dash as you have. I also have the 7800 Clutch position sensor implausible signal in my 01 Engine module. Did you have an issues in the 01 module with this fault?



2) Did you have any issues with the abs module giving you a 01315 - Transmission Control Module fault? I can't get my ABS module to accept any coding for manual transmission. It keeps telling me "out of range." I wondering if your wiring would solve this for me.

Appreciate any help!

1. I only had the 03279 code and the ignition switch defective issues. The wire between T6g/3 and the ECU needs to also tie back to the comfort system control module at T32d/28. This wire was technically already there for the auto wiring but since I used a separate connector for my manual wiring it wasn't tied in so i had to splice that into the circuit. was your donor car a 6 speed? if so, and you swapped the whole body harness that wiring should have already been in place. if you didnt swap the body harness and didnt repin the wiring correctly that is probably your issue.

2. i did not have any issues with the ABS, which im actually surprised about since i used coding from a sedan. without actually having knowledge of what the ABS coding is actually looking at since its not available in VCDS im assuming that it doesnt look at the "chassis" at all (chassis coding is found in a lot of other places in the coding so that kind of makes sense). did you swap a sports diff at the same time? either way, given my luck with using the sedan coding, im assuming you could just use coding from a 6spd sedan S4 (diff dependent) and get it to work. what have you tried so far? only other thing would be to get someones coding from oversees or one of the other swaps done here in america. To answer your question though, the wiring from above shouldn't play any part in your ABS coding not taking.

[jjvwg]

FYI, audiphilia, the wiring is just slightly different for the clutch position sensor on the 3.0L, but i would double check your wiring for pins 2 and 3.

for 3.0L car:

⦁ T6ag/2 (green/grey) to T94/15 at ECU (J623) via T17q/9

⦁ T6ag/3 (blue/grey) to T94/11 at ECU (J623) and T32d/28 at the CCM (J393) via T17q/12

***Edit: for the general public, ignoring wire colors, the above wiring is the only differences from my 2.0 CAEB wiring for someone who would be looking to 6spd swap a DSG 3.0L car***

[Noefearaudis4]

Awesome write up! I'll be giving this a go next month with a couple of buddies helping and hoping to knock it out with a head swap in a weekend! I need something to hold more power than the ZF8 will handle and what is better than a manual avant haha. Thanks for all of this info, I'll definitely be putting it to use here soon!

I was also curious, can't the clutch pedal itself just be swapped onto the previous pedal box by adding it with the pin? I'm just wondering as I know it can for the B5 and it looked similar when I had the manual pedal box for my swap sitting there.

[jjvwg]

Awesome write up! I'll be giving this a go next month with a couple of buddies helping and hoping to knock it out with a head swap in a weekend! I need something to hold more power than the ZF8 will handle and what is better than a manual avant haha. Thanks for all of this info, I'll definitely be putting it to use here soon!

I was also curious, can't the clutch pedal itself just be swapped onto the previous pedal box by adding it with the pin? I'm just wondering as I know it can for the B5 and it looked similar when I had the manual pedal box for my swap sitting there.

the pedal box is exactly the same, so in theory, yes you could just swap the clutch/brake pedal assemblies. There are two issues with that however that make it not worth it in my eyes. 1. you need to pull the grommet out from behind where the master cylinder mounts and swap in the one from the manual car which will require loosening the pedal box regardless (whether or not you could get enough room to do that without loosening up the bolts by the steering column I dont know). 2. swapping the whole pedal box allows you to have the master cylinder installed already. I think i mentioned it in my write up but this allows you to plug the harness in from down in the footwell as well. doing it the way you mentioned would require you to remove ECU plenum in order to install the master cylinder from the engine bay side. shortly after this swap, i had to replace the master cylinder in the fiances car. while not awful by any means to go through the engine bay, with how quick and easy it is to drop the steering column, i think the that is the easier route to go at the end of the day.

[wongster413]

I’m looking to swap a manual 8.5 transmission into a 2012 S line avant. I have a donor car coming for my facelift swap and was considering doing the transmission too. It looks like it might be over my head. I might have to find a shop that will do it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jjvwg]

I’m looking to swap a manual 8.5 transmission into a 2012 S line avant. I have a donor car coming for my facelift swap and was considering doing the transmission too. It looks like it might be over my head. I might have to find a shop that will do it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Certainly doable, the wiring is just slightly different on the late 2011-2012 CAEB’s. Been meaning to post that but haven’t had much time. Also, the gear position sensor on the b8.5 is different wiring wise. Pierre’s friend who did the swap used a b8.5 driveline. Not sure if the b8 sensor mounts into the b8.5 trans but he made it work somehow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bluetori]

How much would you say you invested in this swap, I am seeing gearboxes for around 500, other than that the pedal assembly, not much else?

[Audi 4 Life]

How much would you say you invested in this swap, I am seeing gearboxes for around 500, other than that the pedal assembly, not much else?

The clutch and flywheel is the most expensive part of this swap. If anyone is going to do this at the very least should buy a brand new OE clutch from rockauto, iirc is like 8 or 900.

Personally went with JHM 1R and so glad I did. IMHO its the best option between that and B7 RS4.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[jjvwg]

The clutch and flywheel is the most expensive part of this swap. If anyone is going to do this at the very least should buy a brand new OE clutch from rockauto, iirc is like 8 or 900.

Personally went with JHM 1R and so glad I did. IMHO its the best option between that and B7 RS4.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

This^^^. I think I spent about $1100 for my driveline components, bits and pieces here and there, and new oil for the trans/diff. The clutch kits for these cars are ridiculously expensive compared to other chassis’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noefearaudis4]

Can you verify the part number for the flex plate? I am about to do this swap very soon and I cannot find a flex plate with that part number. These have to be swapped I'm assuming? Everything keeps popping up as the same flexplate with 3 threaded holes and 3 open holes, does the clutch kit only require 3 bolts to the flexplate or is there an actual manual one that has all 6 threaded holes? Please let me know asap, I've got 2 weeks to figure this out and get it here before my scheduled garage time for the swap! Freaking out that I can't find one of these.

[jjvwg]

Can you verify the part number for the flex plate? I am about to do this swap very soon and I cannot find a flex plate with that part number. These have to be swapped I'm assuming? Everything keeps popping up as the same flexplate with 3 threaded holes and 3 open holes, does the clutch kit only require 3 bolts to the flexplate or is there an actual manual one that has all 6 threaded holes? Please let me know asap, I've got 2 weeks to figure this out and get it here before my scheduled garage time for the swap! Freaking out that I can't find one of these.

Part number is up in my first post but yes it needs to be swapped. A4’s only use 3 bolts to mount the flywheel to the flex plate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk