Tools Needed for an Oil Change on B8.5 S4

[Nardo Grey]

Hello Audizine,

I hope this finds you all safe, healthy and in good spirits at home.

This is my first Audizine post, so please bear with me if this is the wrong place to post this.

I was trying to find all the tools needed to do an oil change on my B8.5 S4. If someone could reply with the tools needed, that would be fantastic! Also, if any of you wonderful people have any tools or equipment that you think I should have, please let me know.

Thank you so much, and please stay safe and healthy out there!

Cheers,

Charlie

[Envy187]

I hope the following link helps you, and welcome to the Audizine family!

http://mythun-da.blogspot.com/2013/0...il-change.html

[B18b1ex]

Buy an oil extractor, a 36mm socket, the filter, oil and some disposable shop towels and change your oil on a flat surface. Honestly no need for ramps or jack stands, messing with crush washers and under body panels. 15-20 and you are done and clean.


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[hilmar2k]

Buy an oil extractor, a 36mm socket, the filter, oil and some disposable shop towels and change your oil on a flat surface. Honestly no need for ramps or jack stands, messing with crush washers and under body panels. 15-20 and you are done and clean.


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This

[Nelson G]

This is the extractor I haves for years: https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...All%20Products

The price is right if you look around you can find it for a little less. It holds 8.8 iters more than enough for your car.

[Atrevido]

Welcome to the club! If you plan to keep doing your own oil changes I'd recommend checking out FCP Euro for their oil change kits and return & exchange program.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/Audi-parts/S...&b=5&d=4573&v=
https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee

[BucDan]

Not a fan of extractors. The heavier metals and sludge settle to the bottom of the oil pan. Extractors won't get it all out.

[RatBustard]

Not a fan of extractors. The heavier metals and sludge settle to the bottom of the oil pan. Extractors won't get it all out.

if you have that much wear metal and sludge, you have bigger problems to worry about. an extractor may leave a couple ounces of oil in the pan, but considering the pan volume it's not something I'd worry about.

[sacandagaD]

Mine has been top side changed since new by either the dealer or myself. However, since my last oil change kit from FCP came with a new drain plug and crush washer, I decided to do a traditional drain out for first time. Was definitely a bit messier, but otherwise no big deal. Decided I am going back to using the extractor again exclusively, since I am just not comfortable with possibility of stripping the drain plug threads or not having crush washer seal.

[Allan691]

Mine has been top side changed since new by either the dealer or myself. However, since my last oil change kit from FCP came with a new drain plug and crush washer, I decided to do a traditional drain out for first time. Was definitely a bit messier, but otherwise no big deal. Decided I am going back to using the extractor again exclusively, since I am just not comfortable with possibility of stripping the drain plug threads or not having crush washer seal.

Oil should be drained, not extracted. There's something less romantic about all this. ;) But I'm probably going to get an extractor and go to the Dark Side.. :(

[AerotusX]

I believe most (if not all) Audi dealers do the extracting method. It is way easier.

[m1k3d3]

I believe most (if not all) Audi dealers do the extracting method. It is way easier.

This -if it's good enough for OEM then it's good enough for me.

If I have time to kill I'll put it on jack stands and drain the oil by removing the plug, but more often than not I find myself just using the oil extractor. It's so much easier, quicker, & cleaner.

Audi also recommends running a fuel additive every 10k to help keep the system clean

[Nardo Grey]

This is all great information, so thank you to those who replied, the replies are greatly appreciated. I'm fairly confident in my ability to replace the crush washer (once I find the right size) and I know what cross threading feels like, so I think that I will probably be OK there.

Are there any tools that you believe I should carry in my car? I am working to build out two toolboxes. One that I carry in my car and one that sits in my garage bay. If anyone has anything that they want to add about tools that I should have for my car, please let me know.

Thank you so much!

Cheers,

Charlie

[Atrevido]

As far as the toolbox for your car, do you want to build one that is "Audi-specific", or are you more interested in the "Road Warrior, travel coast to coast" type?

[hilmar2k]

Not a fan of extractors. The heavier metals and sludge settle to the bottom of the oil pan. Extractors won't get it all out.

Assuming there is heavier metals and sludge at the bottom of the pan (there most likely isn't), it's either being circulated around the engine, and caught by the filter, or not, and doing no harm sitting at the bottom of the pan. But, since it almost assuredly isn't even there, assuming you change your oil regularly, that point is moot.

[TC_S4]

The video on the link is pretty interesting concerning oil extractor. Like many think using an extractor will leave some old oil behind, well this video proves the opposite.

https://blog.ecstuning.com/for-scien...ange-your-oil/

[Nardo Grey]

As for my toolbox, I'd like it to be Audi Specific.

Also, for oil changes, do I need a torque wrench, or can I get away with a ratchet?

Thank you so much for all of the replies so far! I appreciate it!

[dubgli]

Extractor every 5000 miles. Drain every 3rd oil change.

Recommend a billet oil filter housing replacement from ecs or any other brand.

Replace the oil tube cap with an actual dipstick.

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[Envy187]

Extractor every 5000 miles. Drain every 3rd oil change.

Recommend a billet oil filter housing replacement from ecs or any other brand.

Replace the oil tube cap with an actual dipstick.

+1 - but with a word of caution; make an effort to not drive with the actual dipstick in-use. There's a few horror stories out there on the forums about the end of it coming apart and leaving pieces behind.

The metal equivalent is far better build quality, but the majority of us practice safe use with only using the dipstick when necessary - all the while keeping it in the trunk of your car or garage in the interim.

[BucDan]

As for my toolbox, I'd like it to be Audi Specific.

Also, for oil changes, do I need a torque wrench, or can I get away with a ratchet?

Thank you so much for all of the replies so far! I appreciate it!

As you can see, many prefer the extraction method. I'm just old school I guess.

As for tools, The cheap Amazon AIO tool box for like $70 has every tool except the 36mm oil filter canister tool, and a 21mm for the rotors, maybe 1 more socket not too certain. I just leave it all in the Amazon toolbox and just throw it in my trunk. It has all of the torx and allen wrenches and philips head you need. The good stuff stays at home. Basically out of that box, I can work on my car away from home if necessary. The fancy dedicated tools, I do not have with me in the car.

[hilmar2k]

The video on the link is pretty interesting concerning oil extractor. Like many think using an extractor will leave some old oil behind, well this video proves the opposite.

https://blog.ecstuning.com/for-scien...ange-your-oil/

Good video (although filmed live so a lot of dead space they struggled to fill). I'm not sure I can trust a tech who doesn't know the difference between hex and torx, though.

I had seen another video when I was deciding whether or not to go the extractor route (I did). That video showed less than 1/2 a cup remaining. Even that amount isn't enough to be a problem.

[dubgli]

The tool box always starts small then grows and grows. I am by no means a mechanic and I don't have an in-car set of tools and an at home set of tools. I've found out what works best for me is a semi-portable tool box.

It's a husky tool box with wheels. I roll it back and forth, fits in the trunk of my cars. Has all bits including triple squares, torque wrenches, breaker bar, electric impact gun and driver, ect. Should have everything to do most things on a vw/audi. It is a little heavy, but it rolls mostly.

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[Nardo Grey]

Good to know. I will look at the billet oil filter housing. Do I really need a torque wrench? Torque tools are expensive, but with a car, they seem important to have. If any of you have any input about if I need torque tools, and if I do, what are the numbers that I need to get to with a torque tool?

With the oil, is the Genuine Audi VW the best oil, or should I look at Liqui Moly? With the Liqui Moly, is there a difference between the Liqui Moly Molygen and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf?

Thank you to all of you that have responded. I am so happy that I joined Audizine!

Thank you, and please take good care and stay safe!

Cheers,

Charlie

[hilmar2k]

Good to know. I will look at the billet oil filter housing. Do I really need a torque wrench? Torque tools are expensive, but with a car, they seem important to have. If any of you have any input about if I need torque tools, and if I do, what are the numbers that I need to get to with a torque tool?

With the oil, is the Genuine Audi VW the best oil, or should I look at Liqui Moly? With the Liqui Moly, is there a difference between the Liqui Moly Molygen and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf?

Thank you to all of you that have responded. I am so happy that I joined Audizine!

Thank you, and please take good care and stay safe!

Cheers,

Charlie

Lots of good oils out there that are VW 502 approved. I have used Liquimoly and Motul, and prefer Motul. If you are going to do any work on your car, you need a torque wrench. You don't have to spend a ton to get one that'll do the job.

[dubgli]

Good to know. I will look at the billet oil filter housing. Do I really need a torque wrench? Torque tools are expensive, but with a car, they seem important to have. If any of you have any input about if I need torque tools, and if I do, what are the numbers that I need to get to with a torque tool?

With the oil, is the Genuine Audi VW the best oil, or should I look at Liqui Moly? With the Liqui Moly, is there a difference between the Liqui Moly Molygen and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf?

Thank you to all of you that have responded. I am so happy that I joined Audizine!

Thank you, and please take good care and stay safe!

Cheers,

Charlie

Sorry to confuse you, I was just sharing my tool box setup.

You should not need a torque wrench for changing oil especially if you're extracting.



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[sacandagaD]

Good to know. I will look at the billet oil filter housing. Do I really need a torque wrench? Torque tools are expensive, but with a car, they seem important to have. If any of you have any input about if I need torque tools, and if I do, what are the numbers that I need to get to with a torque tool?

With the oil, is the Genuine Audi VW the best oil, or should I look at Liqui Moly? With the Liqui Moly, is there a difference between the Liqui Moly Molygen and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf?

Thank you to all of you that have responded. I am so happy that I joined Audizine!

Thank you, and please take good care and stay safe!

Cheers,

Charlie

A good torque wrench is a must have for anyone planning on working on their own car. Just to re-torque wheel bolts at the very least. You can buy a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to put on it, to expand it's usefulness beyond wheels and brake components.

[Nardo Grey]

One more question for you all: What torque range should I look at for a torque wrench? What range should I look for in a torque wrench?

Thank you so much,

Charlie

[sacandagaD]

One more question for you all: What torque range should I look at for a torque wrench? What range should I look for in a torque wrench?

Thank you so much,

Charlie

10 - 150 ft lbs will cover all you need to do with it. Mine is a twist type, and I make sure I zero it out after usage and not leave it set to a torque rate.

[dubgli]

Again, you don't need a torque wrench to change your oil. You can obviously use it once to get a feel for torquing the filter housing, but shouldn't need it after that.

And when changing the oil especially with an extractor, make sure the engine is warmed up to get the oil flowing and to lower viscosity. Maybe this is why any gunk or sludge is less of a problem with an extractor, you're warming and mixing it all up first before you extract.

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[RatBustard]

CDI is one of Snap-On's industrial brands and most of their mechanical click torque wrenches are less than $200 on Amazon and come with calibration certifications and hard plastic cases.

I have several with various torque ranges.

[OHIO_S4]

This is the extractor I haves for years: https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...All%20Products

The price is right if you look around you can find it for a little less. It holds 8.8 iters more than enough for your car.

Nelson G -

I can't tell from the pictures - does the mityvac 7201 have graduation marks so you can tell how much oil was removed?

Thanks!

[RatBustard]

Nelson G -

I can't tell from the pictures - does the mityvac 7201 have graduation marks so you can tell how much oil was removed?

Thanks!

I have the same Mityvac - it does have marks on the side for oil removed, in liters.

[OHIO_S4]

Thanks for the answer Rat. Much appreciated.

[jethead]

I believe most (if not all) Audi dealers do the extracting method. It is way easier.

I do not agree. I drain oil every day at our Audi dealership, car is in a lift anyway, have an inspection to do so baffles (stone shields) are coming off.