Common issues with a 15 RS5?

[ThatDieselGuy]

Hey guys, I am looking at purchasing a 2015 RS5. It has 36,xxx on the clock. Other than the carbon cleaning every 40-50K is there anything else I should be looking for/be aware of? And if possible can y’all post what average cost of said maintenance / repair items are? Thanks in advance!

[brilliant_black]

Changing the DSG oil every 30k is a mandatory thing.

Eventually like most Audi’s you’ll have to do stuff like water pump, fuel pumps, thermostat, injectors, etc. as the car gets up there in age and mileage.

Labor costs will get you not parts since the V8 is crammed in there with not much room to work.


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[Leedaar]

Took my RS5 in for 75k service today (major service that includes DSG, rear diff fluid), and they found bad control arm bushings. I’m happy that it was all they found since I purchased the car without a proper PPI. I researched and found out that some members on this forum had similar issues too. The bushings cannot be replaced, the whole control arm needs to be replaced.

Previous S5 (v8) oil changes: $120 (should be the same for rs5)
Current Rs5 75k service: $1200/1500, quoted from two dealers near me.

Good luck with your purchase!

[Ape Factory]

Took my RS5 in for 75k service today (major service that includes DSG, rear diff fluid), and they found bad control arm bushings. I’m happy that it was all they found since I purchased the car without a proper PPI. I researched and found out that some members on this forum had similar issues too. The bushings cannot be replaced, the whole control arm needs to be replaced.

Previous S5 (v8) oil changes: $120 (should be the same for rs5)
Current Rs5 75k service: $1200/1500, quoted from two dealers near me.

Good luck with your purchase!

Which control arms? Pretty much every bushing in the front suspension can be replaced. Sometimes it's just more cost and/or time effective to replace the whole arm with a "rebuilt" unit. Just realize that most of the bushings are dirt cheap. I'm actually replacing all of my upper control arm bushings as we speak with aftermarket poly bushings which'll last a lifetime but squeak like hell every two years until I lube them.

On things to look for, regular service is mandatory. Things that are known issues...already have the carbon cleaning listed, upper control arm bushings tend to wear, injectors can go bad but usually do so at higher miles. Some of the small coolant hoses coming off the overflow reservoir have gone bad, the transmission mechatronic can have issues, especially if you don't service the car regularly. There's a gear sensor on the mechanical (gear) side of the transmission which has gone bad on some cars but it's very rare. Cars that sit tend to have more issues. I think the multitude of sensors tend to oxidize with time when not run through a heat cycle. McClaren was having issues with cam sensors on brand new cars that were sitting more than three months. So drive it!

Honestly, overall, it's a very reliable car. I've had exactly one issue in almost 70K miles, that being a bad injector. The upper control arm bushings weren't looking great so I'm replacing them myself. Other than that, literally not one issue. Just regular maintenance.

I do recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles and do not go the full 10K between changes. That'll only add to the carbon buildup. I also recommend servicing BOTH sides of the transmission every 20K. There is one side that takes ATF (auto trans fluid) and one side that takes MTF (manual trans fluid). Same for the differential. Spark plugs probably every 35K and i's not uncommon for a coil to go bad. Easy to replace though and I'm still on my originals.

If the car has the specs you're looking for and is the right color, go for it. They're truly wonderful cars.

I have lots of tech and DIY videos on my Youtube page if you're interested. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrV..._as=subscriber

[ThatDieselGuy]

Which control arms? Pretty much every bushing in the front suspension can be replaced. Sometimes it's just more cost and/or time effective to replace the whole arm with a "rebuilt" unit. Just realize that most of the bushings are dirt cheap. I'm actually replacing all of my upper control arm bushings as we speak with aftermarket poly bushings which'll last a lifetime but squeak like hell every two years until I lube them.

On things to look for, regular service is mandatory. Things that are known issues...already have the carbon cleaning listed, upper control arm bushings tend to wear, injectors can go bad but usually do so at higher miles. Some of the small coolant hoses coming off the overflow reservoir have gone bad, the transmission mechatronic can have issues, especially if you don't service the car regularly. There's a gear sensor on the mechanical (gear) side of the transmission which has gone bad on some cars but it's very rare. Cars that sit tend to have more issues. I think the multitude of sensors tend to oxidize with time when not run through a heat cycle. McClaren was having issues with cam sensors on brand new cars that were sitting more than three months. So drive it!

Honestly, overall, it's a very reliable car. I've had exactly one issue in almost 70K miles, that being a bad injector. The upper control arm bushings weren't looking great so I'm replacing them myself. Other than that, literally not one issue. Just regular maintenance.

I do recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles and do not go the full 10K between changes. That'll only add to the carbon buildup. I also recommend servicing BOTH sides of the transmission every 20K. There is one side that takes ATF (auto trans fluid) and one side that takes MTF (manual trans fluid). Same for the differential. Spark plugs probably every 35K and i's not uncommon for a coil to go bad. Easy to replace though and I'm still on my originals.

If the car has the specs you're looking for and is the right color, go for it. They're truly wonderful cars.

I have lots of tech and DIY videos on my Youtube page if you're interested. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrV..._as=subscriber

Thanks for the reply! It definitely has the right things that I’m looking for. I’m doing some research today to see if the proper services were done to it. I will definitely be taking a look at those YouTube videos if I go through with the purchase.

[ThatDieselGuy]

I am hoping since this is a 1 owner car that the previous owner had all the services done like he should.

[ThatDieselGuy]

I have lots of tech and DIY videos on my Youtube page if you're interested. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrV..._as=subscriber

Also, I actually have been watching your videos already of the exhaust on your car lmao. You have got a very clean RS5!

[Leedaar]

Which control arms? Pretty much every bushing in the front suspension can be replaced. Sometimes it's just more cost and/or time effective to replace the whole arm with a "rebuilt" unit. Just realize that most of the bushings are dirt cheap. I'm actually replacing all of my upper control arm bushings as we speak with aftermarket poly bushings which'll last a lifetime but squeak like hell every two years until I lube them.

On things to look for, regular service is mandatory. Things that are known issues...already have the carbon cleaning listed, upper control arm bushings tend to wear, injectors can go bad but usually do so at higher miles. Some of the small coolant hoses coming off the overflow reservoir have gone bad, the transmission mechatronic can have issues, especially if you don't service the car regularly. There's a gear sensor on the mechanical (gear) side of the transmission which has gone bad on some cars but it's very rare. Cars that sit tend to have more issues. I think the multitude of sensors tend to oxidize with time when not run through a heat cycle. McClaren was having issues with cam sensors on brand new cars that were sitting more than three months. So drive it!

Honestly, overall, it's a very reliable car. I've had exactly one issue in almost 70K miles, that being a bad injector. The upper control arm bushings weren't looking great so I'm replacing them myself. Other than that, literally not one issue. Just regular maintenance.

I do recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles and do not go the full 10K between changes. That'll only add to the carbon buildup. I also recommend servicing BOTH sides of the transmission every 20K. There is one side that takes ATF (auto trans fluid) and one side that takes MTF (manual trans fluid). Same for the differential. Spark plugs probably every 35K and i's not uncommon for a coil to go bad. Easy to replace though and I'm still on my originals.

If the car has the specs you're looking for and is the right color, go for it. They're truly wonderful cars.

I have lots of tech and DIY videos on my Youtube page if you're interested. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrV..._as=subscriber

Hey Ape! It was front lower wishbone bushings.
On a side note, the dealer didn't list rear differential ATF and gear oil in their 75k check list. Supposedly, my Audi dealership discussed with AOA and the decision was rear differential service (both sides) should be done at 55k miles and 155k miles thereafter. I didn't believe it, so I had to call and verify if it can be done anyways while my car was there. The Audi tech did the rear differential gear oil (G-052-145-S2 -Axle oil) but not the ATF for clutch hydraulics oil (G-055-515-A2). He stated, "it's a very small amount of fluid anyways and we don't do them on all of RS and R8 cars."

Anyways, I'll have this done at JHM once I'm ready for stage 2 ECU, full JHM exhaust at RMR transmission cooler.

Sorry for the thread hijack ThatDieselGuy..

[BigAngryBananas]

Hey Ape! It was front lower wishbone bushings.
On a side note, the dealer didn't list rear differential ATF and gear oil in their 75k check list. Supposedly, my Audi dealership discussed with AOA and the decision was rear differential service (both sides) should be done at 55k miles and 155k miles thereafter. I didn't believe it, so I had to call and verify if it can be done anyways while my car was there. The Audi tech did the rear differential gear oil (G-052-145-S2 -Axle oil) but not the ATF for clutch hydraulics oil (G-055-515-A2). He stated, "it's a very small amount of fluid anyways and we don't do them on all of RS and R8 cars."

Anyways, I'll have this done at JHM once I'm ready for stage 2 ECU, full JHM exhaust at RMR transmission cooler.

Sorry for the thread hijack ThatDieselGuy..

Straight from Audi USA's website: https://maintenance.audiusa.com/#/search



Somebody along that chain messed up.

[Leedaar]

Straight from Audi USA's website: https://maintenance.audiusa.com/#/search



Somebody along that chain messed up.

Tell me about it!!! I even showed them Audi’s recommended service website in person and through email...

[ThatDieselGuy]

All good. That service schedule that was posted is a nice thing to have.

[Steelhead]

just did my 71,000km service on my 15'(supposed to be my 85k service).... $1500cdn....ouch! But made a very noticeable difference.. Running so much meaner and cleaner.

[Ape Factory]

Also, I actually have been watching your videos already of the exhaust on your car lmao. You have got a very clean RS5!

. Awesome and thank you! I have more coming. Amazed at how well the car holds up overall. Most people can't believe I daily drive it. I do try to go well above and beyond taking car of her. My neighbors think all I do is either "fix" the car or wash it. I'm probably a bad brand ambassador as they think my car is broken all the time. Nope, just checking things out and developing new products!

Hey Ape! It was front lower wishbone bushings.
On a side note, the dealer didn't list rear differential ATF and gear oil in their 75k check list. Supposedly, my Audi dealership discussed with AOA and the decision was rear differential service (both sides) should be done at 55k miles and 155k miles thereafter. I didn't believe it, so I had to call and verify if it can be done anyways while my car was there. The Audi tech did the rear differential gear oil (G-052-145-S2 -Axle oil) but not the ATF for clutch hydraulics oil (G-055-515-A2). He stated, "it's a very small amount of fluid anyways and we don't do them on all of RS and R8 cars."

Anyways, I'll have this done at JHM once I'm ready for stage 2 ECU, full JHM exhaust at RMR transmission cooler.

Sorry for the thread hijack ThatDieselGuy..

Ah...the front lowers...yeah they're a pain but can be replaced. Rare for those to go out. The front end does take lots of punishment due to all that engine weight. It's like a Porsche 911 in reverse.

The rear diff fluid change, both ATF and MTF, is at 35, 75 and 115K miles as BAB posted. I do performance maintenance and I do it every 20K miles along with the transmission service. It adds, maybe $70 to the cost so it's a worthwhile investment for me personally. Plus it's really easy to change if you use the drain and measure method.