New 2016 S6 owner - motor mounts

[Pomial]

Hi all!

Happy to be part of the forum. I just purchased a 2016 Audi S6 Prestige with 37k miles. I went ahead and bought the Ross Tech VCDS to do some mods. I just did a full scan and it came up with the motor mount code (pic attached), it seems to date back to last year. I also did the output test and both sides seemed to make sound/vibrate but left side seemed not as loud as the right.

Does this mean the motor mount needs replaced?
Also, I purchased an extended warranty and wondering if the company can reject the warranty claim by saying the failure happened before I bought the car?

Thanks a lot,

[NAYCHURKAL]

I would definitely wait at least 60 days before doing anything involving warranty. That way you are good to go as far as pre-existing condition being an issue.

[NAYCHURKAL]

About a $1500 job btw.

[Pomial]

Should I try to reset the code and see if it comes back? It looks like based on Frequency it only triggered once back in 2019. Or is that going to cause issues when I take it back to the dealer and they see that I erased the codes?

[IssaWrapVinyl]

Or $600 if you have tools and don’t need to drive the car for a few days depending on your skill level. I have the write up on the full job. I just haven’t had a chance to start pulling the car apart yet.


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[gk1]

Should I try to reset the code and see if it comes back? It looks like based on Frequency it only triggered once back in 2019. Or is that going to cause issues when I take it back to the dealer and they see that I erased the codes?

You could try, but when I had the same it only said "1" fault frequency but returned immediately after clearing. It seems to be one of those codes that don't self clear and then come back in repeatedly like emissions or others.
If you go to the dealer and only one is faulted they will only replace that one even though the maintenance manual suggests they both be replaced at the same time. Assuming a running change in operations due to too many warranty claims. I had them do both since some of the labor overlaps.

[OlyS6]

Or $600 if you have tools and don’t need to drive the car for a few days depending on your skill level. I have the write up on the full job. I just haven’t had a chance to start pulling the car apart yet.


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Can you point me to a link on the write-up for the full job? I've only ever seen it posted for the passenger side of an A6, which apparently is a different procedure and locations from the S6, although I can't confirm for sure. So far so good, but likely something I'll need to tackle at some point...

[IssaWrapVinyl]

Open the hood foot on gas n brake. Give it gas. If the motor flex’s a bunch you need a mount. It’s usually the right side mount taking the upward force that goes bad. But since you’re in there might as well do both. I have it in paper form. I printed it off and stored it in my binder. I printed off everything for this car lol. Just in case I lose my job at Audi. Always have a plan b.


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[TechSavvy]

Can you point me to a link on the write-up for the full job? I've only ever seen it posted for the passenger side of an A6, which apparently is a different procedure and locations from the S6, although I can't confirm for sure. So far so good, but likely something I'll need to tackle at some point...

I'd have it fixed under warranty, I did exactly what you're asking about. Clear the code with your scanner. It will likely come back almost instantly and register a new date/time that it was logged. Then you have that just to be safe. My original fault date was from 2 years before I purchased my vehicle and they dealer still fixed it under warranty after doing what I'm suggesting.

BTW - is your vehicle a C7 or C7.5? Make sure you're on VCDS v20.4.1 (not 20.4) because 20.4 has a bug with reading motor mount faults. Mine said I had a fault, I took it in again, dealer said there was no fault there. Brought it home scanned it again and saw the fault. Then someone reached out and said about the bug and updated firmware - did that and it no longer sees the fault after clearing it.

[Incandescent]

Open the hood foot on gas n brake. Give it gas. If the motor flex’s a bunch you need a mount. It’s usually the right side mount taking the upward force that goes bad. But since you’re in there might as well do both. I have it in paper form. I printed it off and stored it in my binder. I printed off everything for this car lol. Just in case I lose my job at Audi. Always have a plan b.


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I'm a noob, but isn't brake+throttle bad for a clutched gearbox?

It'd be fine for a torque converter, but wouldn't it be bad for the clutch?

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[gk1]

I'm a noob, but isn't brake+throttle bad for a clutched gearbox?

It'd be fine for a torque converter, but wouldn't it be bad for the clutch?

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#launchcontrol

[Pomial]

Mine is 7.5 and I did confirm that I have version 20.4.1

If I clear and it comes back with a new time stamp, is there a way for somebody to see that it was cleared once and then came back?

[IssaWrapVinyl]

I'm a noob, but isn't brake+throttle bad for a clutched gearbox?

It'd be fine for a torque converter, but wouldn't it be bad for the clutch?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Audizine mobile app

Same thing as a launch. It’s not like you’re constantly doing it. You do it to test movement of the engine. With the hood up you can clearly see how much flex the engine has and to which side is moving most. People drag these cars without launch control all the time. Meaning foot brake, no kick down launch control, and go. Dual clutch’s can take more of a beating then most people know. It’s all about fluid level and service intervals.


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[bahula03]

Uhh...what? The engine will rock when revved, even without a transmission connected, because of the rotating mass it contains. No need to put it in gear.

Also, wet multi-plate clutches can take a lot of abuse, but launch control and flooring the gas and brake at the same time aren't the same things as far as wear and tear or what the transmission is doing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ People not constantly doing gas and brake launches is the saving grace, not the clutches being unexpectedly durable.

[RAF_S7]

Open the hood foot on gas n brake. Give it gas. If the motor flex’s a bunch you need a mount. It’s usually the right side mount taking the upward force that goes bad. But since you’re in there might as well do both. I have it in paper form. I printed it off and stored it in my binder. I printed off everything for this car lol. Just in case I lose my job at Audi. Always have a plan b.
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This is not always a good indication of a fault. The only way I found mine was a VCDS scan followed by the specific Mount test.

As an aside, I’m now +20k miles since the failure. But had my APR dealer disable COD (the reason for the active mounts in the first place) when the fault first came up. Has no issues whatsoever since, and no unbalanced operation of the engine.

I don’t recommend mount replacement as a DIY job - at least not on the 4.0tt platform, since you need to drop the subframe to access the mount, and realignment is a requirement afterwards. The cost of a mount alone runs around $600 each, and the recommendation is to replace both at the same time!

[rguil]

Same thing as a launch. It’s not like you’re constantly doing it. You do it to test movement of the engine. With the hood up you can clearly see how much flex the engine has and to which side is moving most. People drag these cars without launch control all the time. Meaning foot brake, no kick down launch control, and go. Dual clutch’s can take more of a beating then most people know. It’s all about fluid level and service intervals.


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this is a really really bad idea. Really bad

[IssaWrapVinyl]

this is a really really bad idea. Really bad

Lol are you a certified technician? Do you know how to test if a motor mount is bad? Or are you just a forum know it all? That is how you test for bad mounts bud.


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[IssaWrapVinyl]

This is not always a good indication of a fault. The only way I found mine was a VCDS scan followed by the specific Mount test.

As an aside, I’m now +20k miles since the failure. But had my APR dealer disable COD (the reason for the active mounts in the first place) when the fault first came up. Has no issues whatsoever since, and no unbalanced operation of the engine.

I don’t recommend mount replacement as a DIY job - at least not on the 4.0tt platform, since you need to drop the subframe to access the mount, and realignment is a requirement afterwards. The cost of a mount alone runs around $600 each, and the recommendation is to replace both at the same time!

I’m telling you rn.. these are still nut and bolt cars. Meaning with the right amount of skill it can be done by a regular joe in his garage. All you need is a simple engine support beam from harbor freight. At Audi we have a specific tool for supporting the motor while removing subframe. Still manageable only difference is your skill level will get it done in 5 hours by the book or take a few days. I ran GFF on my S6 and also the mount test. No codes but my mount is for sure torn. I can feel it every time I drive. Plus I did the brake and gas test on a newer S7 and compared it to my 7 yr old S6. The amount of play is scary. There are many ways of going about it. I’m a young guy, but I learned the old school way of fixin!! ;)


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[IssaWrapVinyl]

This is not always a good indication of a fault. The only way I found mine was a VCDS scan followed by the specific Mount test.

As an aside, I’m now +20k miles since the failure. But had my APR dealer disable COD (the reason for the active mounts in the first place) when the fault first came up. Has no issues whatsoever since, and no unbalanced operation of the engine.

I don’t recommend mount replacement as a DIY job - at least not on the 4.0tt platform, since you need to drop the subframe to access the mount, and realignment is a requirement afterwards. The cost of a mount alone runs around $600 each, and the recommendation is to replace both at the same time!

I just installed new 295/25/21’s so an alignment is inevitable. However we have a really nice Hunter Alignment rack at work so it’s gonna get done regardless. But another way of not having to realign everything. Make marks with a white paint pen. Around where the subframe links to the frame(BEFORE YOU START IMPACTING BOLTS OUT). Make marks first. I did a DSG clutch assembly on my gf’s 2.0 Jetta. Made marks and didn’t have to realign it. Well I went to align it again and everything was green on the screen so I backed off the rack and drove it home!


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