S4 Timing Chain Kit question (RS4 upgrade)

[jayden.world]

Hello, I tried researching about this but couldn't find a definitive answer.

I know that I can replace 2 tensioner guides/rail of S4 with RS4 parts but when I looked at the back of the engine pics of RS4 and S4 and compared,
S4 seemed to have several different parts but overall it looked identical to RS4 except that S4 had more plastics.

My main question is : Can I just replace the whole timing chain kit of S4 with RS4 parts only? If not possible, then I assume only 2 of RS4 parts(the tensioner guides) can be replaced?

Thank you for your reading.

[Jdsb6s4]

just the 2 RS4 guides.. thats it

[jayden.world]

just the 2 RS4 guides.. thats it

Oh so only the two guides?

Thank you very much for your clear answer!

[Jdsb6s4]

believe me, if I could have swapped all my guides to the RS4 ones, I would have. make sure you get new check valve kit as well. Some people freak out when they start hearing a mild chain slap at startup, that has been check valves. When you have a continuous chain slap, you know you are in trouble.

[Dondbg]

Same here, wanting to do timing service for my S4 B6 2004, is it confirmed that i can use the RS4 guides for my engine?
I see Europa parts sells a compete kit but was i couldn’t get a definitive yes it fits.

For sure I’m getting a check valve kits but I will be swapping guides and tensioners only, will reuse the chains.

[NALS4]

When reusing the chains, make sure you reinstall them so that they move in the same direction as originally. The manual says that if they are put on to run in the other direction, damage could result.

[jayden.world]

believe me, if I could have swapped all my guides to the RS4 ones, I would have. make sure you get new check valve kit as well. Some people freak out when they start hearing a mild chain slap at startup, that has been check valves. When you have a continuous chain slap, you know you are in trouble.

Are you talking about the oil check valves under the valley pan that ECS sells as a kit?

[jayden.world]

Same here, wanting to do timing service for my S4 B6 2004, is it confirmed that i can use the RS4 guides for my engine?
I see Europa parts sells a compete kit but was i couldn’t get a definitive yes it fits.

For sure I’m getting a check valve kits but I will be swapping guides and tensioners only, will reuse the chains.

From my research, Early VIN and later VIN doesn't matter as the 2 RS4 rails will fit perfectly.

[Dondbg]

When you gonna do yours ?

[jayden.world]

When you gonna do yours ?

Replacing the 2 guide rails? Probably this summer? But the thing is the plastic guides I have are still fairly new according to the previous owner, which means it still will last a few years from now on and I don't drive much....
but ofc putting the RS4 guides would give me a piece of mind though it's too much work.
I will have to buy an engine hoist just for that which is actually ridiculous though there is no choice.

I'm researching if I can re-use everything and only just change the 2 guide rails and someone commented that I may need to change some bolts according to the manual though he thinks I will be fine to use the bolts again.
He told me to check some other stuff as well while the engine is off but I m not sure.

Do you know if I can just pull out the engine and just simply change the rails only and then put it back?
Someone commented me on my other post that I should check other stuff before putting back the engine and do everything at once. (scoring, etc but I don't even know what scoring is)

[jayden.world]

It's just unbelievable that you need to take out the entire engine in order to swap 2 guide rails LOL.

I saw a video of Acura TL engine pull out and it literally took less than 2 hours. (Well, that guy had a hoist and impact wrench)

I feel complicated lol

[Dondbg]

I have a hoist and a monster impact and this is my fourth engine pull and it is not small job lol but starts to be easy.
If your car runs fine then just enjoy it.
Once the plastic guide crack you will start hearing rattle, this so what learned, it’s not immediate unless a shitty timing job was done.
There are bolts/screws you need to change yes, not sure which ones holds that guide as I never done the timing myself yet.

Here is the list


2 x N10554005
4 x N10156205
4 x N10124306

[All_Black_A4]

Replacing the 2 guide rails? Probably this summer? But the thing is the plastic guides I have are still fairly new according to the previous owner, which means it still will last a few years from now on and I don't drive much....
but ofc putting the RS4 guides would give me a piece of mind though it's too much work.
I will have to buy an engine hoist just for that which is actually ridiculous though there is no choice.

I'm researching if I can re-use everything and only just change the 2 guide rails and someone commented that I may need to change some bolts according to the manual though he thinks I will be fine to use the bolts again.
He told me to check some other stuff as well while the engine is off but I m not sure.

Do you know if I can just pull out the engine and just simply change the rails only and then put it back?
Someone commented me on my other post that I should check other stuff before putting back the engine and do everything at once. (scoring, etc but I don't even know what scoring is)

Seems like your about to start a shit ton of work for $100 worth of parts and some piece of mind. If the car has only done 5k kms on new timing components then you’ll likely not have to do it again for a looong time. Unless the PO did a bad job.....but that can’t be the case as it would have gone pop a long time ago. I’d only do it if you had to remove the engine for something else ie transmission related or installing headers. I’ve done 2 engines pulls myself and while it’s no small job it’s manageable with one person. I’ll be doing #3 this summer but will be rebuilding the spare engine I have first with a mix of new and barely used....approx 1000k of use....guides and tensioners from a part out. I’m slowly collecting all the parts I need. I say just drive the car and enjoy it.


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[evolution2147]

If you don't have issues I definitely wouldn't pull the motor and replace them. Mainly because those 2 guides don't magically fix all the timing issues on these motors. The new guide should make it at least 50k, most people get around 100k.

[jayden.world]

I have a hoist and a monster impact and this is my fourth engine pull and it is not small job lol but starts to be easy.
If your car runs fine then just enjoy it.
Once the plastic guide crack you will start hearing rattle, this so what learned, it’s not immediate unless a shitty timing job was done.
There are bolts/screws you need to change yes, not sure which ones holds that guide as I never done the timing myself yet.

Here is the list


2 x N10554005
4 x N10156205
4 x N10124306

Thank you so much for your kindness.
When I start up my car, it rattles sometimes (like 30% of the time, not all the time) and it lasts anywhere between 1 sec to 5 seconds in general,
and rarely the rattling noise lasts about 10 seconds but the first 1 second is loud and the rest 9 seconds is like fading-out sound. (As if it sounds like TUDUDUDU DADA da ra ra.......)
I think this is fine right? I read from the Timing Chain FAQ that this rattling when starting the engine is normal

Then yeah, I will not pull out my motor as I don't need it then lol.
According to the PO, the car scored the engine so he had to change the engine head with an A6 4.2 engine.
The car engine is in good condition imo though I need these jobs done.
The car is leaking oil pretty badly and I see a big puddle on the driver's side right behind the radiator. Quite a big diameter... (I assume it's VCG or VPG leak though my other mechanic said it seems to be VCG when he went under neath the car to check)

So far what I've fixed.
-Tie Rods (Inner & Outer) = Solved (steering wheel did not retract to center position after doing a turning)
-Wheel Alignment(Obviously)
-Sway Bar Links = Solved (rubber rubbing noise when driving)
-Upper & Lower Radiator Hose Change
-Front Pass Window Regulator Replacement(DIY)
-Added an aftermarket amp and sub(DIY)

To do list
-Valley Pan Gasket Job (Bought the oil check valves from ECS)
-Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
-AC Compressor Replacement (including the condesner + drier)
-Y-Piece Radiator hose replacement (The Y-Piece connector seems to be not working properly)
-Motor Mounts Replacement
-Serpentine Belt replacement
-Body Work (Front Bumper driver side hanging clip broken + front engine hood, too many dents)
-Wheel Curb damage work

All those jobs except body work will be done at once when I work on the AC Compressor perhaps.

[jayden.world]

If you don't have issues I definitely wouldn't pull the motor and replace them. Mainly because those 2 guides don't magically fix all the timing issues on these motors. The new guide should make it at least 50k, most people get around 100k.

Thank you for your message.

So you mean that the upgrade with 2 RS4 guide rails won't make the S4 timing chain last life time?
Could you tell me more about it?

And thank you so much again. I decided not to pull out the motor. I don't have a hoist and it would be a pain to buy the hoist just for this.

[Dondbg]

Thank you so much for your kindness.
When I start up my car, it rattles sometimes (like 30% of the time, not all the time) and it lasts anywhere between 1 sec to 5 seconds in general,
and rarely the rattling noise lasts about 10 seconds but the first 1 second is loud and the rest 9 seconds is like fading-out sound. (As if it sounds like TUDUDUDU DADA da ra ra.......)
I think this is fine right? I read from the Timing Chain FAQ that this rattling when starting the engine is normal

Then yeah, I will not pull out my motor as I don't need it then lol.
According to the PO, the car scored the engine so he had to change the engine head with an A6 4.2 engine.
The car engine is in good condition imo though I need these jobs done.
The car is leaking oil pretty badly and I see a big puddle on the driver's side right behind the radiator. Quite a big diameter... (I assume it's VCG or VPG leak though my other mechanic said it seems to be VCG when he went under neath the car to check)

So far what I've fixed.
-Tie Rods (Inner & Outer) = Solved (steering wheel did not retract to center position after doing a turning)
-Wheel Alignment(Obviously)
-Sway Bar Links = Solved (rubber rubbing noise when driving)
-Upper & Lower Radiator Hose Change
-Front Pass Window Regulator Replacement(DIY)
-Added an aftermarket amp and sub(DIY)

To do list
-Valley Pan Gasket Job (Bought the oil check valves from ECS)
-Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
-AC Compressor Replacement (including the condesner + drier)
-Y-Piece Radiator hose replacement (The Y-Piece connector seems to be not working properly)
-Motor Mounts Replacement
-Serpentine Belt replacement
-Body Work (Front Bumper driver side hanging clip broken + front engine hood, too many dents)
-Wheel Curb damage work

All those jobs except body work will be done at once when I work on the AC Compressor perhaps.

Bad Oil check valves could be cause rattling

“On the B6/B7 S4, a check valve stuck in the open position will drain hydraulic lifters and chain tensioners of oil when the engine is turned off, forcing the car to start with incorrect tolerances in the cylinder head. A rattling sound heard during start up is a typical sign of check valve failure.”


http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...llation_R1.pdf


As for the oil leak could be your valve cover gasket or oil cooler seal (maybe someone correct me here )

You can put the front carrier in service position and trace the leave