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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Brake line snapped. How do I proceed?

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    So I was changing the brake hose. A simple job, or it should be. So I went ahead and started bleeding it after the replacement and noticed it started dripping from underneath the car and I thought, what the hell. I noticed it was brake fluid but was wondering why it came from there. So I started looking around for the leak and finally found it, It was from the brake line that goes from the top of the brake hose and up under the steering rack. There was a crack in it, in the direction the line is going. It hadn't snapped across it. Have no idea how this happened. I should be able to replace a brake hose without a line cracking. It is a 20 year old car and the line was buried beneath tons of dirt and moist. Couldn't find it at first. So I guess it's not impossible

    I'm thinking I've 2 options. Either replace the entire brake line from the hose to the ABS unit or cut the line and splice it. The first one is not an option cause there's no way I can get to it. There's a million things in the way and it runs alongside the rear of the engine. The second option is doable. But I can't get anything in there to cut the line. The steering rack is kinda in the way. I guess I could use a small and then use a connector nipple to join both lines. It shouldn't have to be cut dead straight

    Any other options or advice?

    A6 2000 2.4



    I'm pointing at the location with a screwdriver
    Last edited by AudiNike12; 04-14-2020 at 06:30 AM.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Holy shit is that a power steering line?

    I advise you to clean that area out and then clean with water to ensure the brake fluid doesn't eat the paint.

    I've seen shops do splices in hard lines, but I'm pretty sure it has to be cat straight across to be done properly

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    My advice having had to do this on my allroad is to either have a shop make you a whole new line from the ABS or track down a used line. While it seems daunting to fish it around and get it to come through I was able to do it.


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    But how do I fish it around? Where's the space lol. Which end do I begin from, ABS unit or wheel area? First I need to remove the old one. Do I have to remove anything? Any pointers?

    I'm in the process of splicing it. If that doesn't work then I've no other option

    Last edited by AudiNike12; 04-14-2020 at 11:30 AM.
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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    Holy shit is that a power steering line?

    I advise you to clean that area out and then clean with water to ensure the brake fluid doesn't eat the paint.

    I've seen shops do splices in hard lines, but I'm pretty sure it has to be cat straight across to be done properly

    Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk
    No, that goes to the brake pad and something else
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  6. #6
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings ECS Tuning-Audi's Avatar
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    If you have all the tools it's really not that bad of a job, just find a clean section of line to cut and flare then put the new line on. If it's hardline I suggest staying with hardline, I'm not a big fan of the Softline sleeving kits that some people use, I've spotted too many weeps and failures over the years from those soft patch work style kits. Also, the new line doesn't have to follow the same exact path as the old one, just make sure it's a clear path.

    Tools if you need them - https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwa..._Piston_19093/

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Brake line snapped. How do I proceed?

    Out of curiosity what line is it? I might have an extra front drivers side from my previous exploits.

    Edit: I just saw you are in Sweden. Probably be pricey to get it there. Sorry.


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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings 2.ohhh's Avatar
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    I'd get some engine degreaser and hose that area down so it's clean to start...you'll then see if you need to replace more than a small area. Most likely, I'd plan on replacing the whole or most of the line if at all possible. If it's corroded there, it will be almost if not just as bad somewhere else if it's buried in goo like the photo.
    Now...'94 Land Cruiser, '18 Mini CooperS Clubman 2.0t, '13 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5t...Then...'03 RS6 6spd, '03 A6 2.7t 6spd sedan,
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Putting a double flare on a steel line is not the easiest task. Practice on some scrap line and use a quality flare tool.

  10. #10
    Active Member Two Rings
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    What glennda5id said. Practice and take your time.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    I've the tools and I've done quite a few brake lines before. I'm giving it my best shot

    I now see and knows where the entire brake line goes and it's definitely not impossible to replace. From what I can see there's 2 mounts behind the wall on the rear of the engine. 1 is easy to get to, the other one not so much. But I'll get to it one way or the other. I think the easiest way is to fish the new one down, if you remove the coolant resorvoir, behind the engine. Maybe you have another suggestion?

    From looking around, I think you can buy that brake line from dealer ship for $25. It's a specific length so that makes me believe it's finished with no need to flare and bend. I called but they didn't know. Anyone know? Part#: 4B0 614 724 Q

    Or if anyone has a spare passenger side brake line?

    Edit: I talked to the dealer again and they said it should be a finished brake line so he had to order it home from Germany. 3 days. Let's see how it looks when it shows up
    Last edited by AudiNike12; 04-15-2020 at 08:02 AM.
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Well, I don't wanna jinx anything but I think mission accomplished. I've bled the system and the joint connector nipple holds up so far. No leaks. The brakes are good. Let's see for how long this holds up



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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Highly recommend pressure washing that area and letting it dry to properly check your work. Otherwise, good job!

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  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    Highly recommend pressure washing that area and letting it dry to properly check your work. Otherwise, good job!

    Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk
    Yeah, all that buildup retains moisture and accelerates corrosion. A good cleaning will reduce the likelihood of similar failures in the future and alert you to any issues hiding underneath.

    Edit: I should add, look at my location and you'll see why I'm paranoid about corrosion. Salt and winter grime are awful in MI; a good electric pressure washer and CorrosionX HD have been our cars' best friends since moving up here.
    Last edited by benton; 04-16-2020 at 08:59 AM.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    I'll try giving it a good cleaning. Thanks for the help and advice
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ECS Tuning-Audi View Post
    If you have all the tools it's really not that bad of a job, just find a clean section of line to cut and flare then put the new line on. If it's hardline I suggest staying with hardline, I'm not a big fan of the Softline sleeving kits that some people use, I've spotted too many weeps and failures over the years from those soft patch work style kits. Also, the new line doesn't have to follow the same exact path as the old one, just make sure it's a clear path.

    Tools if you need them - https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Schwa..._Piston_19093/
    I'm interested in this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../005939sch01a/

    Problem is the shipping is more than the product itself. Maybe I can find something similar closer to home
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings 2.ohhh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AudiNike12 View Post
    I'm interested in this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../005939sch01a/

    Problem is the shipping is more than the product itself. Maybe I can find something similar closer to home
    That tool is pretty slick...I could have used it more than once for sure.

    Glad that you got the line fixed...I think I'd have a seizure though if my undercarriage looked like that...
    I'm sure it's a product of the local environment though...we have that here in the US in the northeast states....
    Now...'94 Land Cruiser, '18 Mini CooperS Clubman 2.0t, '13 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5t...Then...'03 RS6 6spd, '03 A6 2.7t 6spd sedan,
    '83 Rabbit GTI Callaway, '91 Golf GTI 2.0 16v, '99 Golf GTI 2.0, '69 Austin America, '52 Pontiac Chieftain, and many more....

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
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    Be careful with the type of flare you put. Also, don't use compression fittings to join together the brake lines. You have to make a union, do not use compression fittings, I'll say that again. This happened to me back in August of 2018 on my Avant. You can rent the flare tools from eeuroparts

    Audi dealer was quoting me $3000 for the repair because they had to drop the exhaust and gas tank. I ended up getting it spliced the right way at a indy shop. Purchased the union from Advance Auto Parts


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Yeah I read about using compression fittings and how they're not able to stand the pressure. Should have used a union. But maybe it will hold up. If not, I'll replace the entire line. It's not like I'm gonna lose the brakes completely all at once if it starts leaking. Hopefully
    Last edited by AudiNike12; 04-26-2020 at 10:12 AM.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    Well, during my 2nd MOT since replacing the the brake line, the line popped out from the compression fitting. It held up for a little over a year. I've now made a new brake line from end to end. My god what a PITA it was routing that new line the same way the old one was. Through all the small openings, channels, corners etc. And with the smallest amount of space. First and last time doing that
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  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings SUBAMMAS's Avatar
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    I hope you didn't make the replacement line out of copper tubing like the repair pic showed. Copper is too soft to use safely in such a critical system as brakes (as you found out).
    '05 Allroad 4.2

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings AudiNike12's Avatar
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    I've never had a problem with copper lines before this, when making them end to end, without a compression fitting. Don't think I would be able to route a steel line because it's so hard. Hope it holds up because I don't want to do this again lol
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