Best Grade Oil for the Least Oil Consumption

[moonlight]

Hello everyone,

Hope you have been all well during these hard days all over the world.

As I have previously mentioned, I have oil consumption problem which has increased in the past year time. The car is 2010 a5 1.8 Tfsi (118KW/160Hp) manual, gasoline. And the mileage is around 63000 miles.

I know that this is a known issue and has been discussed several times before, but I am confused about the oil grade selection as the info I ve read did not answer my questions.

The manual is recommending Vw504 for Long Life Service which has been used since new (Castrol in the past and then Mobil5w30 C3 Vw504 oil).

The manuel is also recommending Vw502 for control service. But it then states that I should not add an A3B4 oil more than 1 liter.

I have been using Mobil 5w30 ESP since 3 years and last month I switched to Liqui Moly 4200 5w30 c3 Vw504 oil which did not make much difference.

So to reduce the oil consumption I am thinking to use a thicker oil...

Two Questions:

Can I use VW502 oil with A3B4 spec instead of C3 spec?
***Option 1*** Mobil 1 New Life is 0w40 and A3B4 with Vw502 approval.
***Option 2*** Mobil 1 ESP 0w40 is C3 but without Vw502 approval.

Between those two option which is a better or the only suitable option?

Depending on the answer I get here, if I can not find the Mobil I need from petrol station, I will be looking to buy a Liqui Moly (directly from the distributor) in that case and it will either be

*** Option 3*** Toptec 4100 5W40 (c3) with Vw502
*** Option 4*** Molygen New Generation 5W40 A3B4 with also Vw502

Which one of those four oils will be the right and best option to move from the current Liqui Moly 4200 5W30 C3 (VW504) inside the engine which already got consumed around 1.5 Liters (or 1.6 Qt I guess) in the past 2000 km or (1200 miles I guess).

Your opinions are very important for me.

Many thanks in advance.

God Bless

[old guy]

Here is a thread with more than you never wanted to know about oil consumption with the early 2.0TFSI engines. It's 140 pages and still growing. Clicky click® The bottom line is that it is a mechanical failure relating to the oil wiper rings. Nothing short of a piston replacement is going to cure the issue.

As you read through the thread you will see that an oil that works a little for one person doesn't work for another. There is no one oil that is going to cure the consumption issue. If you want to use Mobil oil I believe that the Mobil 1 0w-40 New Life is scheduled in Europe to be replaced soon by Mobil 1 FS 0w-40. The change has already occurred in the US. The specs on the 0w-40 FS look really good. It meets VW 502/505, SN and Porsche A40. I plan to switch from Motul Specific to the Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 at my next oil change.

Do you know if your PCV/Block breather valve has ever been replaced? That is generally the first step (stage 1) in the Audi oil consumption correction. Stage 2 is piston replacement.

[moonlight]

Here is a thread with more than you never wanted to know about oil consumption with the early 2.0TFSI engines. It's 140 pages and still growing. Clicky click® The bottom line is that it is a mechanical failure relating to the oil wiper rings. Nothing short of a piston replacement is going to cure the issue.

As you read through the thread you will see that an oil that works a little for one person doesn't work for another. There is no one oil that is going to cure the consumption issue. If you want to use Mobil oil I believe that the Mobil 1 0w-40 New Life is scheduled in Europe to be replaced soon by Mobil 1 FS 0w-40. The change has already occurred in the US. The specs on the 0w-40 FS look really good. It meets VW 502/505, SN and Porsche A40. I plan to switch from Motul Specific to the Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 at my next oil change.

Do you know if your PCV/Block breather valve has ever been replaced? That is generally the first step (stage 1) in the Audi oil consumption correction. Stage 2 is piston replacement.

Thanks for the reply.

I just replaced the PCV valve for the first time since 2010, only a month ago. Bought the pcv from audi dealership. The part number is ending with AH which replaces the old version that has part number ending with E. (both with black lid). And, no change.

I could not find answers to these two questions below. Thank you for the link and Mobil FS recommendation.

My two questions are:

1- Would VW502 replace VW504 ?

2- If so, can I use A3B4 instead of C3 when the manual suggests not to add more than a liter of A3B4 to the best of my understanding?

I know that nothing will solve the oil consumption. I just want to reduce it a little bit but I do not want to cause another problem by using wrong oil.

[old guy]

VW 502/505 are the quality standards for gasoline engines. The 504/507 designation is for extended life and diesel engines.

Here is a good discussion on the A3/B4 vs C3 designation: Clicky click®

[moonlight]

VW 502/505 are the quality standards for gasoline engines. The 504/507 designation is for diesel engines.

Here is a good discussion on the A3/B4 vs C3 designation: Clicky click®

I have already read that topic and it does not answer my questions as there are contradicting posts.

[old guy]

I believe you are overthinking this. Here's a pretty good explanation of all the various VW oil specs. Clicky click®

Basically the manual states that you should be using a VW 502 approved oil and if not available you can use a A3/B4 oil in a pinch but no more than 1L.

As long as you are using a VW 502 oil in an approved viscosity you should be good to go. Clicky click®

[findalex]

It's a mechnical problem, as stated earlier. No oil would materially make a difference in oil consumption.

[old guy]

It's a mechanical problem, as stated earlier. No oil would materially make a difference in oil consumption.

Absolutely.

I should know better than to go down the "best oil" rabbit hole...

[moonlight]

I believe you are overthinking this. Here's a pretty good explanation of all the various VW oil specs. Clicky click®

Basically the manual states that you should be using a VW 502 approved oil and if not available you can use a A3/B4 oil in a pinch but no more than 1L.

As long as you are using a VW 502 oil in an approved viscosity you should be good to go. Clicky click®

Thanks for suggestions. By the way a3b4 is also Vw502. So it is confusing that the manual is recommending to use something recommended no more than 1L.

You stated that you would be switching to Mobil 1 0w40 FS at your next oil change, but that oil is without Vw502, it is with Vw503.1 which is a different approval.

[moonlight]

It's a mechnical problem, as stated earlier. No oil would materially make a difference in oil consumption.

Thats right, but when I searched forums around I have found that switching to one of those oils especially the green color Molygen (5w40) really fixes oil consumption problem at a Bmw F10 which is totally different car. But if the same oil does the trick at one car it could do the same at another as well.

When it comes to trying where I live Liqui Moly Molygen is more expensive than Mobil 1 FS 0w40, and is sold only in 5 liters bottles. As swithing the oil will not be a 100% solution I would need to buy another 5 liters bottle of that oil.

Mobil 0w40 FS on the other hand is about %50 cheaper than the Liqui Moly and is sold in 4 liter bottles only. And it makes more sense to pay for two 4 Liter boxes rather than 5.

I also wonder if Liqui Moly Ol Verluss STOP (part nr. 1005 ) will do any effect on oil burning? Any experiences?

[old guy]

Thanks for suggestions. By the way a3b4 is also Vw502. So it is confusing that the manual is recommending to use something recommended no more than 1L.

You stated that you would be switching to Mobil 1 0w40 FS at your next oil change, but that oil is without Vw502, it is with Vw503.1 which is a different approval.

Here are the specs on Mobil 1 FS 0w40: VW 502/505/503 01 as well as Porsche A40 and ACEA A3B4.

Clicky click®

[moonlight]

Here are the specs on Mobil 1 FS 0w40: VW 502/505/503 01 as well as Porsche A40 and ACEA A3B4.

Clicky click®

Thank you for the link but I have already read that link a few times and still unsure as it contradicts with my manual.

[old guy]

Thank you for the link but I have already read that link a few times and still unsure as it contradicts with my manual.

Keep in mind that your manual was printed 10 years ago. The Mobil 1 FS 0w40 wasn't even formulated then. Oil, like everything else, has changed in the past 10 years.

[moonlight]

Keep in mind that your manual was printed 10 years ago. The Mobil 1 FS 0w40 wasn't even formulated then. Oil, like everything else, has changed in the past 10 years.

Thanks for offering solutions.

So, what would you suggest me to do. Be very careful and keep adding 200ml 300ml of oil frequently, drive gently and changing the oil every 3000miles/5000kms until I go to service? (which will take a few months as I am out of my hometown because of escaping from the virus which has affected all world).

Or I should either stop driving my car or immediately go to service?

In all cases I have nothing to loose by trying Mobil 0w40 FS is that right?

[old guy]

My recommendation would be to use the Mobil 0w40 FS. Monitor your oil level and add when needed. Maintain a 5,ooo mile OCI and drive the car normally until you have the opportunity to address the situation.

[findalex]

Here is the official approved VW oil list: https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...-1.22.2018.pdf

[moonlight]

My recommendation would be to use the Mobil 0w40 FS. Monitor your oil level and add when needed. Maintain a 5,ooo mile OCI and drive the car normally until you have the opportunity to address the situation.

Thanks for the recommendation. Visited four audi mechanics and four of them told me that it is a known piston ring issue of TFSI engines without even looking in detail...

One of them recommended Motul a3b4 10W60, however it does not have any VW approval. What do you think?

I also contacted Audi about the issue and they told me that there would not be any free fix for this problem. They told me that they would charge me and me mentioning that the issue was a known issue was useless.

I am the third owner of the car since 3 years. And the car was originally purchased in 2011 from Audi (in the middle east), and has only been serviced at the Audi dealership only 1 time and it was in 2011. All of the next services have been private.

Do you think I have a chance to get the engine replaced or repaired for free for this known issue like the most of the guys on forums?

[old guy]

Unfortunately the class action lawsuit for excessive oil consumption has been closed. Audi then extended the oil consumption warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles. You are past the 8 year mark so it's doubtful that you will be able to get any type of reimbursement for the repairs.

I really don't think you will see any significant reduction in oil consumption by going to a 10w60 weight oil. However, It does meet the ACEA A3/B4 as well as the API SN / CF oil standards so you are not going to damage your engine by trying it.

At this point you have nothing to lose so go ahead and see if it helps.

Best of luck to you. It sucks to purchase what should be a nice car and end up dealing with this bull crap from Audi.

[findalex]

Using a thicker oil is an old trick that might work with older engines that does NOT use variable valve timing that relies on oil pressure.

When you use an oil that is too thick, the proper oil pressure can not be achieved until the engine's warmed up, so you risk damage to your car even more.

There is a reason why the car got dumped by so many people in such a short time. I recommend you cut your losses and get rid of the car. 2013+ model year cars do not have that problem, so if you really want to an Audi 2.0 TFSI, then get something newer. Otherwise, you will waste a lot of time and energy with this car.

[moonlight]

Using a thicker oil is an old trick that might work with older engines that does NOT use variable valve timing that relies on oil pressure.

When you use an oil that is too thick, the proper oil pressure can not be achieved until the engine's warmed up, so you risk damage to your car even more.

There is a reason why the car got dumped by so many people in such a short time. I recommend you cut your losses and get rid of the car. 2013+ model year cars do not have that problem, so if you really want to an Audi 2.0 TFSI, then get something newer. Otherwise, you will waste a lot of time and energy with this car.

2013+ 2.0tfsi does not exist where I live.Automatic TDIs are around and I dont want to have transmission and DPF problems. Plus 99% of them have accident history. Mine has none of those problems. Buying another 2nd hand costs much more than fixing the problem. I dont live in the US. Buying an immeculate coupe is nearly impossible where I live. And I dont want to sell my car at the moment. My 2010 1.8 TFSI has manual transmission without any problems. Nearly 100% of 2013+ audis have transmission problems and non of them has manual transmission where I live. I have test drived several of them. Daily rented a few. And all have hesitancy at changing gears which is not acceptable for me. So I want to keep and fix my current TFSI.

Isn't it smarter first to try either Mobil 0w40 FS or Motul Xmax8100 0w40 or Xcess 5w40 (all are thicker and have vw502) ?

If this trick does not work isnt it better to replace the piston rings,valves,chains,chain tensioner,oil pump and enjoy driving without any oil consumption?

In case of attempting that repair for the cylinder walls is it best to insert another cylinder walls inside cylinder walls to create a smooth surface for the new piston rings for TFSI engines?

As I understand, after replacing those parts with the updated versions and the oil consumption problem will go away for good. Is that right?

[findalex]

You're right, I didn't consider the availability in your market may be different from mine.

Oil is cheap, so yeah, why not try Mobil 1 0w-40. I've never had any problems with it on my two (2009 and 2013) EA888 engines.

My understanding is that once you make all the repairs, the engine drives like a champ again. However, because the mechanics in the U.S. charge $250+ per hour, the cost of the repair is too high for most people to attempt. An old Audi has almost no value in the USA because of that.

If you can DIY or find a good and cheap mechanic, I'd say go for it!

[moonlight]

You're right, I didn't consider the availability in your market may be different from mine.

Oil is cheap, so yeah, why not try Mobil 1 0w-40. I've never had any problems with it on my two (2009 and 2013) EA888 engines.

My understanding is that once you make all the repairs, the engine drives like a champ again. However, because the mechanics in the U.S. charge $250+ per hour, the cost of the repair is too high for most people to attempt. An old Audi has almost no value in the USA because of that.

If you can DIY or find a good and cheap mechanic, I'd say go for it!

The labor is alot cheaper here.

My engine is CDHB 1.8 Tfsi engine with 118kw/160hp power. If I get to a point to get it repaired then would it be better to insert cylinders inside the cylinders to create a totally brand new smooth cylinder walls? Or is it better just to replace the pistons with the rings and valves?