Misfires across all cylinders, I'm stumped. Help!!!

[Avus RS4]

My mechanic from one of the most reputable shops known to the Audi crowd in Denver hasn't been able to figure out this misfires CEL issue on ALL cylinders.
Replaced all plugs, all coil packs, carbon clean, both 645 relays, flap sensor, solenoid, intake flap rods, you name it, I probably replaced so far, and about $4k later.
No luck. I had them go thru all the vacuum hoses up front and back and airbox. Nothing!
The car runs like a demon very strong, and purrs like a kitten, but can't get rid of that P0300 to P0308.
There are no other codes present, the EPC light, got fixed, and every other codes that always plague these cars, those have been addressed.
Help please. Any suggestions?

[MacFady]

Coil pack harnesses had a good going over as well? Doesn't sound like there is a fueling issue.

[AA 954]

My mechanic from one of the most reputable shops known to the Audi crowd in Denver hasn't been able to figure out this misfires CEL issue on ALL cylinders.
Replaced all plugs, all coil packs, carbon clean, both 645 relays, flap sensor, solenoid, intake flap rods, you name it, I probably replaced so far, and about $4k later.
No luck. I had them go thru all the vacuum hoses up front and back and airbox. Nothing!
The car runs like a demon very strong, and purrs like a kitten, but can't get rid of that P0300 to P0308.
There are no other codes present, the EPC light, got fixed, and every other codes that always plague these cars, those have been addressed.
Help please. Any suggestions?

In my case it was the crank position sensor, after installing a new ~90$ part my multiple 300 to 308 got fixed

I also assume that at the time of carbon clean you also changed your injectors?


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[Avus RS4]

In my case it was the crank position sensor, after installing a new ~90$ part my multiple 300 to 308 got fixed

I also assume that at the time of carbon clean you also changed your injectors?


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I haven't replaced the injectors, at least not until they prove it to me that they're faulty.
The position crank sensor, I'm not sure if it's been replaced, but that's a god starting point.
The car accelerates very strong, starts right up, and it's fun to drive, these misfires I'm seeing doesn't seem to be affecting anything, other than just showing up.
One more thing I wanted to add, when I go through the dear accelerating pretty fast, it triggers a CEL light in a flashing mode for a good 10-15 seconds, or if I go on third gear at about 4k rpm cruising for a few seconds like that, also triggers a flashing CEL.

[AA 954]

I haven't replaced the injectors, at least not until they prove it to me that they're faulty.
The position crank sensor, I'm not sure if it's been replaced, but that's a god starting point.
The car accelerates very strong, starts right up, and it's fun to drive, these misfires I'm seeing doesn't seem to be affecting anything, other than just showing up.
One more thing I wanted to add, when I go through the dear accelerating pretty fast, it triggers a CEL light in a flashing mode for a good 10-15 seconds, or if I go on third gear at about 4k rpm cruising for a few seconds like that, also triggers a flashing CEL.

Yes mine would happen after cruising in the 3.7-3.8k rev band range. Whats your mileage? There are already a few documented cases of leaky/stuck injectors ruining engines and others with oem injectors at 150k plus and no issues, personally I decided not too risk it and changed these during my 72k cc


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[virtualaudi]

I haven't replaced the injectors, at least not until they prove it to me that they're faulty.
The position crank sensor, I'm not sure if it's been replaced, but that's a god starting point.
The car accelerates very strong, starts right up, and it's fun to drive, these misfires I'm seeing doesn't seem to be affecting anything, other than just showing up.
One more thing I wanted to add, when I go through the dear accelerating pretty fast, it triggers a CEL light in a flashing mode for a good 10-15 seconds, or if I go on third gear at about 4k rpm cruising for a few seconds like that, also triggers a flashing CEL.

90% crank sensor

[Chandler]

Crank sensor is the G28 Sensor - there is an aftermarket part I used that was coincidentally 28 dollars when I did mine. I was getting an engine speed error though.

When doing a CC I recommend going ahead replacing injectors especially if you are paying for someone else to do the labor if you can stomach the cost.

Here is the part I purchased:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...vag-070907601a

It says camshaft position sensor - it's mislabeled for the b7 rs4. It sits under a heat shield, above the driver side DP on over the flywheel. You don't have to remove the DP to get to it if you have a catless DP.

[Avus RS4]

Yes mine would happen after cruising in the 3.7-3.8k rev band range. Whats your mileage? There are already a few documented cases of leaky/stuck injectors ruining engines and others with oem injectors at 150k plus and no issues, personally I decided not too risk it and changed these during my 72k cc


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About to turn 89k miles.
It sucks, because I want to sell the car, and I've spent close to $10 grand in maintenance for that mileage in the last 12 months; clutch, new brakes all around, new upper and lower control arm, recharged the DRC suspension system and replaced a leaking hose, new battery, new tires, carbon clean, flap sensor, intake solenoid, oil change, refinished and powder coated wheels, no rash, new windshield, coil packs, spark plugs, and who knows what else I'm forgetting.
The car runs strong, but those misfires are driving me up the wall.

[Avus RS4]

90% crank sensor

Nope. The crank sensor has not been replaced, just got that confirmed with my mechanic.
Man, I hope that's the problem right there, we're running out of options at this point.
Thanks for the feedback. I will rely that to my mechanic and see what happens.

[Avus RS4]

In my case it was the crank position sensor, after installing a new ~90$ part my multiple 300 to 308 got fixed

I also assume that at the time of carbon clean you also changed your injectors?


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No. No injectors replaced, yet...

[mugell0RS4]

No. No injectors replaced, yet...

Best way is to log injector duty cycles/fuel trims. It will be readily apparent which ones are failing (exceeding 100% duty cycle for short or even long periods).

For peace of mind ($440 in injectors to save a $10K engine), you should do them every 100K, more often if tuned.

Quoted from @Fourplay on here


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[RAudi Driver]

I'm trying to figure out how a bad injector can ruin a motor. Wouldn't a bad injector just cause a misfire?

[your daddy]

Will you paypal me if I internet fix it? Tell your shop to take out the junk aftermarket crank sensor, and get one FROM AUDI. NO EXCEPTIONS!

[Pyromatic177]

Crank sensor is the G28 Sensor - there is an aftermarket OE part I used that was coincidentally 28 dollars when I did mine. I was getting an engine speed error though.

When doing a CC I recommend going ahead replacing injectors especially if you are paying for someone else to do the labor if you can stomach the cost.

Here is the part I purchased:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...vag-070907601a

It says camshaft position sensor - it's mislabeled for the b7 rs4. It sits under a heat shield, above the driver side DP on over the flywheel. You don't have to remove the DP to get to it if you have a catless DP.

While it is “Aftermarket” it’s OE, so it’s an Audi sensor without the Audi logo, logo is likely scratched off?
I also ordered this sensor from FCP as it’s OE

[AA 954]

Crank sensor is the G28 Sensor - there is an aftermarket part I used that was coincidentally 28 dollars when I did mine. I was getting an engine speed error though.

When doing a CC I recommend going ahead replacing injectors especially if you are paying for someone else to do the labor if you can stomach the cost.

Here is the part I purchased:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...vag-070907601a

It says camshaft position sensor - it's mislabeled for the b7 rs4. It sits under a heat shield, above the driver side DP on over the flywheel. You don't have to remove the DP to get to it if you have a catless DP.

In my case I wasn’t even getting that engine speed code, just the 300 to 308 codes on or above the 3.8k range and when I logged with obd11 each individual cylinder misfire counter I recall cylinders 7 and 2 having the highest, took about 3 months to figure this out...

New plugs
Coils
New Injectors
Carbon Clean
New PCV
New Vacuum Solenoids
Check all Vacuum lines
New MAF
New Air Filter
TB clean
New FPR’s on the fuel rail
Even added an APR tune

And after all this it still continued...

I was left with the decision to either change the LPFP although the logs were showing correct readings, change both HPFP’s even though the readings for the one you get via vcds was also fine and change the Throttle Body even though there were no codes here or irregular idle

Changing the crank sensor (g28) was part of the maintenance program I had planned when the car went in for the new clutch, flywheel and DP’s install with further misfire tracking from my mechanic. LUCKILY lol, this ended up being the culprit for the misfires




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[AA 954]

I'm trying to figure out how a bad injector can ruin a motor. Wouldn't a bad injector just cause a misfire?

Usually thats the case if its gets stuck open and an oil analysis can also help understand if there is too much fuel going in and mixing up with the oil however, a dirty or bad injector that in this case leans out is the main problem as it can cause detonation/pre-ignition and left unchecked can lead up to different problems that affects / wears down an engine, you could crack a piston, damage piston rings, others... this is specially possible in a one off pull all the way up to ~8.2k/redline...


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[Avus RS4]

After reading the details of the crank position sensor symptoms on the ECS Tuning website, I'm now more inclined on the CPS being my problem...

Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Sensor
Product Details
*Depending on vehicle application, can be used as a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor - Please verify application prior to ordering*

Used by the ECU to control ignition and fuel injection, this sensor can burn or wear out over time. If the engine is revved with a worn sensor, misfires, motor vibrations and backfires can occur. There is a chance that your vehicle might not start altogether, so be sure to replace this faulty sensor.

Those items highlighted in red, have been present in my car.
Just two weeks ago it didn't want to start as if totally dead, no crank, nothing.
Engine vibrations is there when I accelerate, it used to go away after warming up pretty good, now the vibrations are more permanent...

[Pyromatic177]

After reading the details of the crank position sensor symptoms on the ECS Tuning website, I'm now more inclined on the CPS being my problem...
Those items highlighted in red, have been present in my car.
Just two weeks ago it didn't want to start as if totally dead, no crank, nothing.
Engine vibrations is there when I accelerate, it used to go away after warming up pretty good, now the vibrations are more permanent...

bad CPS would turn over but no start

[Euston]

Changing the crank sensor (g28) was part of the maintenance program I had planned when the car went in for the new clutch, flywheel and DP’s install with further misfire tracking from my mechanic. LUCKILY lol, this ended up being the culprit for the misfires

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So you solved the issues? G28 was the culprit? Did you end up doing new injectors too? How is the car running now?

[AA 954]

After reading the details of the crank position sensor symptoms on the ECS Tuning website, I'm now more inclined on the CPS being my problem...
Those items highlighted in red, have been present in my car.
Just two weeks ago it didn't want to start as if totally dead, no crank, nothing.
Engine vibrations is there when I accelerate, it used to go away after warming up pretty good, now the vibrations are more permanent...

Crank issue you stated could also be the starter relay or the starter itself that is on the way out, a separate issue from misfires but just so you keep this in mind


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[AA 954]

So you solved the issues? G28 was the culprit? Did you end up doing new injectors too? How is the car running now?

Yes this solved my misfire issues. Injectors were done at ~72k with CC, runs great, strong pull all the way to redline and no further misfires at 4k cruising


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[your daddy]

yes MUST BE FROM AUDI. No scratch off crap.

[Avus RS4]

I wanted to bump this thread to add one more question.
I haven't been able to follow up on the suggestions already given, due to Covid-19.

I was causally talking to a guy who claims to have been an Audi tech about the issues with my car.
He told me because the misfires are on ALL cylinders that it could be the timing chain stretched out.
How rare is it to have the TC failed or replaced?
What do you guys think about this?

[your daddy]

I wanted to bump this thread to add one more question.
I haven't been able to follow up on the suggestions already given, due to Covid-19.

I was causally talking to a guy who claims to have been an Audi tech about the issues with my car.
He told me because the misfires are on ALL cylinders that it could be the timing chain stretched out.
How rare is it to have the TC failed or replaced?
What do you guys think about this?

NO.

[Chandler]

I wanted to bump this thread to add one more question.
I haven't been able to follow up on the suggestions already given, due to Covid-19.

I was causally talking to a guy who claims to have been an Audi tech about the issues with my car.
He told me because the misfires are on ALL cylinders that it could be the timing chain stretched out.
How rare is it to have the TC failed or replaced?
What do you guys think about this?

Did you replace the G28/ crank position sensor as suggested?
Fresh Fuel?
You originally mentioned new spark plugs. What are they gapped at/ what type of plug is it?
Fuel filter replacement (unlikely, but possible)?

Once those boxes are ticked, we are out of cheap parts to replace and I suggest you log output from your high pressure fuel pump - then start looking at the pump or high pressure sensor located on the passenger side rail.

[Mistro]

Maybe crank position sensor

Or a loose/damaged tone ring?

[Avus RS4]

I'm still fighting the misfires issues.
I had the carbon clean done yet again about 300 miles ago, and nothing changed.
I took the car toi the dealer for an airbag recall notice, and while there I asked for a second opinion.
They determined it was my aftermarket air filter, clogged and dirty, they put a stock one and the misfiring occurrences were significantly reduced to thee point it took about 3 days until the all cylinders misfires reared the ugly head yet again and has not comeback, and what I mean is that it's only happened once as opposed to several times.
The CEL came on under hard acceleration. I plan on erasing the codes and see what happens.
The dealer ruled out the crank position sensor as the possible culprit.
Replacing the air filter made sense since it was soon after I installed it that the issues began.
Today a friend hooked up a vag com on my car, and I'm going to let you guys look at it and see if you can shed new light on this.

Sunday,23,August,2020,16:36:07:18907
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 19.6.1.0 (x64)
Data version: 20190529 DS308.0
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WUARU78E97N905468 License Plate:

Chassis Type: 8E (8E - Audi A4/S4/RS4 B6/B7 (2001 > 2008))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 11 15 16 17 18 25 36 37 45 46 55 56 57 65
67 69 75 76 77

VIN: WUARU78E97N905468 Mileage: 144040km-89502miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels:. 079-910-560-BNS1.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 A HW: 8E1 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/4V FSI ª0060
Revision: 57H15--- Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Coding: 01040009180F0160
Shop #: WSC 08316 444 999999
VCID: 244CED7BE792246FDD-8070

1 Fault Found:
006435 - Please Check DTC Memory of ECU Number 2
P1923 - 008 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000

Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 144042 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 105.0°C
Temperature: 75.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.684 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 11: Engine II Labels:. 079-910-560-BNS2.lbl
Part No SW: 8E1 910 560 A HW: 8E1 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/4V FSI ª0060
Revision: 57H15--- Serial number: XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Coding: 01040009180F0160
Shop #: WSC 08316 444 999999
VCID: 244CED7BE792246FDD-8070

9 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %

Speed: 115.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000773 - Cylinder 5
P0305 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %
Speed: 115.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001

Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %
Speed: 115.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000776 - Cylinder 8
P0308 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %
Speed: 115.0 km/h

Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000775 - Cylinder 7
P0307 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %
Speed: 115.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0

Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143870 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3548 /min
Load: 85.8 %
Speed: 115.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0°C
Temperature: 37.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143876 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3120 /min
Load: 31.8 %
Speed: 101.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C

Temperature: 39.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V

000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143885 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 4172 /min
Load: 22.0 %
Speed: 82.0 km/h
Temperature: 94.0°C
Temperature: 42.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

000774 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 143910 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2090 /min
Load: 23.5 %
Speed: 80.0 km/h
Temperature: 94.0°C
Temperature: 40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 830.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.716 V

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8E0-959-655-94.lbl
Part No SW: 8E0 959 655 H HW: 8E0 959 655 H
Component: Airbag 9.41 H12 3840
Revision: 91H12384 Serial number: 0036N0G0PFNP
Coding: 0432607
Shop #: WSC 06335 000 00000
VCID: 3C7C351B7F227CAF85-8068

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8E0 910 339 B
Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 002 0070

Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 3HSUT

Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 0001.01.000000200000000000ÿ†63

[Avus RS4]

Any guesses?
Quite frankly, I'm tired of paying so far close to $4k for guess work chasing this misfires, that I'm going to start doing the guess work myself.

I'm going to send the fuel injectors to be cleaned and flowed.
The other thing I want to do is replace the HPFP, but it calls for two, one on the left side and one on the right side.
Is one a lower pressure one?
Do you replace both pumps?

[Chandler]

Any guesses?
Quite frankly, I'm tired of paying so far close to $4k for guess work chasing this misfires, that I'm going to start doing the guess work myself.

I'm going to send the fuel injectors to be cleaned and flowed.
The other thing I want to do is replace the HPFP, but it calls for two, one on the left side and one on the right side.
Is one a lower pressure one?
Do you replace both pumps?

From the logs, it looks like you have VCDS.
Log the low side fuel pressure. It should be at 6 bar at idle. Do a pull in third gear from 2k-7k~ RPMS and log HPF and LPF sensors and post them for us.

There are two HPFPs on each bank of the motor, one sending unit in the tank (under rear passenger side tank), two pressure relief valves under the manifold, one HPF sensor under the manifold, 8 injectors under the manifold and of course 8 spark plugs.

When doing your first carbon clean (to a new to you car/ used), I highly recommend changing all injectors, plugs, valley pan gasket, both oil jets/ o-rings, Intake manifold gasket, and the HPFP sensor, maybe the relief valves, and spark plugs.
Because removing the intake manifold is so labor intensive and recommended only every 30k miles, it makes sense to start "fresh".

I opted to do all of the above and went with new coil packs the first round.
Ironically, one of my HPFPs failed, so I replaced both of them which solved my problem of the occasional misfire at high RPM. Could I have narrowed it down to one injector or coil pack? Maybe, but that would have required a series of pulling the the intake manifold, which wasn't worth my time.

If you post the logs, we can rule out the high pressure or low pressure side (assuming sensor are good/ accurate).

record the following blocks:
003, 140 and 103

[Laylomo]

While it is “Aftermarket” it’s OE, so it’s an Audi sensor without the Audi logo, logo is likely scratched off?
I also ordered this sensor from FCP as it’s OE

Does anyone have a DIY guide to replace the sensor or can share photos of the location? Appreciate any input on this, thanks in advance.

[Rol-co]

anybody with vcds ever looked at the CPS ? Ignition timing angle group 3-4 ? Should that be a steady value?

[Kenny147]

I’m pretty sure it’s on the passenger side of the bell housing, up at the backside of the engine. I had mine changed as a preventative measure when I had the clutch done.

[your daddy]

I’m pretty sure it’s on the passenger side of the bell housing, up at the backside of the engine. I had mine changed as a preventative measure when I had the clutch done.

driver side. under a heatshield.

[Kenny147]

driver side. under a heatshield.

Thanks, I should’ve checked before I posted.

[Chandler]

Thanks, I should’ve checked before I posted.

Fairly certain I removed my downpipe to get to it thinking I needed to, then discovered it didn't really matter if my downpipe was out or not because it was so far up there. The heat shield needs to be bent back a bit to get to the nut. I ended up braking the heatshield on accident by moving it around too much - so be careful in that regard.

[Avus RS4]

90% crank sensor

Make it 100% Crank position sensor!

Guys, I've spent nearly $5,000 chasing a misfire code. My car was misfiring on ALL CYLINDERS, During that time I performed the carbon clean twice, new spark plugs, new fuel filter, new coil packs, intake flaps, battery, all kind of parts and sensors were replaced and no luck.
This car stumped the best shops in Denver, I was spending money on expensive parts unnecessarily, I even paid to have the carbon clean done twice.
The last desperation parts I was about to change was the two high pressure fuel pumps and injectors, that was until I read a similar thread by a poster named Andrew who went through the same thing like me, except that he replaced by far the most parts, including new injectors, in-tank fuel pump and the two HPFP, I felt sorry for the guy, he even had his ECU flashed by APR, and nothing. I'm glad I went through the whole process of reading his several page long thread to see what finally fixed it, and I'm glad he came back and told us. It was the freaking CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR all along!
The problem is that the CKP doesn't show on diagnostic software or throws any codes, that's why everybody was missing it. It's a silent killer running in the background. LOL!
Well, last week I had all my tires rotated and balanced because it had a weird vibration while on driving that after a while it would go away, but after the tires rotation, the vibration continued and after a brief search I found out a bad CKP would make your engine vibrate, throw misfiring codes on all cylinder and cause high fuel consumption.
I finally decided to tackle the problem myself, bought a new CKP sensor and installed it today, and bingo! no more engine vibration, the car pulls super strong, runs great and no more codes.
So, next time you have misfires ON ALL CYLINDERS, keep in mind and by logic and common sense that it can't be the injectors all gone bad at the same time.

I want to thank all of you that took the time to respond to my post because all of you had a positive input in all of this.
My car after two years is finally running excellent and it will go to BringATrailer.com for auction in about a month from now as soon as I fix a couple minor cosmetic damage.
Car has 90K miles, Has newer clutch, DRC suspension serviced a year and half ago or less than 1k miles, new upper and lower control arms, new rotors and pads, powder coated wheels with no curb rash, perfect!, plus two extra powder coated spare wheels in the same color (triple dark Bronze), (all 6 wheels are flawless) new battery, carbon clean done, coil packs and spark plugs replaced rear tires have 8/32 and front 5/32 thread runs strong. I'm going to detail the interior and ceramic coat the exterior. Car is bone stock, never tracked, never raced.
I had an idiot brushed my rear bumper as I was coming out a parking spot, and gouged the bumper, had a new bumper installed, no structural damages, I've got pics, I also had the front lip busted, had the front bumper also replaced, again, no structural damage, just cracked bumper.
I'm going to set the reserve at $28K.
The car is 20 miles northwest of Denver

[Avus RS4]

In my case it was the crank position sensor, after installing a new ~90$ part my multiple 300 to 308 got fixed

I also assume that at the time of carbon clean you also changed your injectors?


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Crank position sensor for the win!

[AA 954]

Crank position sensor for the win!

Yes not surprised, when its all the cylinders its either a really bad case of carbon build or that pesky CPS, glad it worked out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Avus RS4]

Well, now after testing the car more this morning, I get a p305 accompanied by loss of power and really rough idle.
I scanned it and I've got P0305 and P2293. I replaced the ignition coil on number 5 and the spark plugs. The car runs the same, blue smoke out of the back, and raw fuel smell on the exhaust. Lots of fuel out of the exhaust.
Man, I thought I had the car running good, now this. First time it runs rough like this.
Any ideas?
The car was running strong, I put some injector cleaner a week ago and I'm now wondering if that could be the culprit since the smell feels like injector cleaner.

[Lesterine2004]

Well, now after testing the car more this morning, I get a p305 accompanied by loss of power and really rough idle.
I scanned it and I've got P0305 and P2293. I replaced the ignition coil on number 5 and the spark plugs. The car runs the same, blue smoke out of the back, and raw fuel smell on the exhaust. Lots of fuel out of the exhaust.
Man, I thought I had the car running good, now this. First time it runs rough like this.
Any ideas?
The car was running strong, I put some injector cleaner a week ago and I'm now wondering if that could be the culprit since the smell feels like injector cleaner.

Have you logged engine I 015/016/017 at cold startup to see if you have misfires at idle prior to warm up?