ABT HAS Install

[Dr. Jekyll]

Hey guys, I'm thinking about picking up the ABT HAS spring setup for my B9 RS5 (with DRC and DAP) while I'm stuck in quarantine. Since I'll be installing these myself and there's not a lot of DIYs for the RS5 yet, I was wondering if anyone has are any tips regarding the install. Looking at the KW HAS install instructions, the install looks fairly straight forward and very similar to an 8V S3 spring install, with the exception of leaving the DRC attached to the car.

Secondly, for those that have lowered their B9's, what post-install things need to be done to the car? Of course I'll need an alignment. But I've also read that a "DRC refill" is recommended and that an ACC and lane assist alignment/recalibration is required (adding about $500 to the regular alignment cost at the dealer). For those that have lowered their RS5's (or A5/S5s with ACC), is the DRC refill or ACC alignment recommended or necessary? TIA!

[Dr. Jekyll]

Bump - No one has any experience with lowering their B9's?

[Nox05]

Very interested, I have the same kit for my RS5 and was looking to do this myself.

[EuroCK]

Here's a vid I put together on the HAS I installed on my wife's B9, still adding elements to the video should be added later today. Excuse my ignorance for using bad terms, don't do to many videos. I did not film the rear, but there are 3 bolts that need to be removed two from the caliber and 1 from the lower control arms. This will allow you to remove the oem spring and replace with HAS spring and perch.

https://youtu.be/JZHUyc7P3yo

https://youtu.be/BJnX4QvIc6g

[idrinkv8]

I was kind of thinking of tackling this myself as well but a little intimidated by it. I heard there’s a special wrench needed for the front?



Ps: I’m Selling an H&R VTF kit if anyone is interested for a pile with DRC.

[Nox05]

I was kind of thinking of tackling this myself as well but a little intimidated by it. I heard there’s a special wrench needed for the front?



Ps: I’m Selling an H&R VTF kit if anyone is interested for a pile with DRC.

I'll help with yours and you help with mine? Maybe when the weather gets nicer?

[idrinkv8]

I'll help with yours and you help with mine? Maybe when the weather gets nicer?

Would love that! Sounds great

[TSpoolin]

I'm interested in this, too, as I just received my KW HAS kit for my RS5, which has the DRC. I did the install on my 2019 S5 Coupe that had the Electronic Control Suspension with the KW HAS. I did not do a recalibration for the ACC after alignment and it was working fine. I'm thinking if I 'only' drop the RS5 an inch, that possibly the DRC refill/lowering pressure will not need to be done, but would like some confirmation from someone who has actually done this (Teknika?). As far as the S5, I found it easier in the rear to remove the inner lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, undo the lower shock mount and the lower arm will drop down (also undo one end of the ride height plastic control arm) and allow the spring to come out easily. You'll have to realign the car anyway, so I think that simplifies the rear job (although if you have ECS feature, you'll need to undo the two upper shock bolts and unplug the connection, undo the pin connection from the shock in order to take off the top hat and change the bumpstops). No special wrench needed in the front for the S5, just patience.

[Dr. Jekyll]

Here's a vid I put together on the HAS I installed on my wife's B9, still adding elements to the video should be added later today. Excuse my ignorance for using bad terms, don't do to many videos. I did not film the rear, but there are 3 bolts that need to be removed two from the caliber and 1 from the lower control arms. This will allow you to remove the oem spring and replace with HAS spring and perch.

https://youtu.be/JZHUyc7P3yo

https://youtu.be/BJnX4QvIc6g

Thanks for the info and videos! So install on the RS5 should basically be the same as all the B9s, with the exception of having to keep the front dampers attached the car (via the DRC lines). This will make the front spring install more of a PITA on the RS5, but the process is none-the-less the same.

Does your S5 have Adaptive Cruise? If so, any issues with the calibration after the spring install?

I'm interested in this, too, as I just received my KW HAS kit for my RS5, which has the DRC. I did the install on my 2019 S5 Coupe that had the Electronic Control Suspension with the KW HAS. I did not do a recalibration for the ACC after alignment and it was working fine. I'm thinking if I 'only' drop the RS5 an inch, that possibly the DRC refill/lowering pressure will not need to be done, but would like some confirmation from someone who has actually done this (Teknika?). As far as the S5, I found it easier in the rear to remove the inner lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, undo the lower shock mount and the lower arm will drop down (also undo one end of the ride height plastic control arm) and allow the spring to come out easily. You'll have to realign the car anyway, so I think that simplifies the rear job (although if you have ECS feature, you'll need to undo the two upper shock bolts and unplug the connection, undo the pin connection from the shock in order to take off the top hat and change the bumpstops). No special wrench needed in the front for the S5, just patience.

Great info for the rear spring install. Thanks!

The ABT HAS doesn't drop the RS5 significantly (TAG's website quotes a max of 3/4 of an inch), so I'm not sure the DRC refill and ACC calibration is actually required. Then again, I haven't seen any definitive guidance or experiences.

[strangatang]

I'm interested in this, too, as I just received my KW HAS kit for my RS5, which has the DRC. I did the install on my 2019 S5 Coupe that had the Electronic Control Suspension with the KW HAS. I did not do a recalibration for the ACC after alignment and it was working fine. I'm thinking if I 'only' drop the RS5 an inch, that possibly the DRC refill/lowering pressure will not need to be done, but would like some confirmation from someone who has actually done this (Teknika?). As far as the S5, I found it easier in the rear to remove the inner lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, undo the lower shock mount and the lower arm will drop down (also undo one end of the ride height plastic control arm) and allow the spring to come out easily. You'll have to realign the car anyway, so I think that simplifies the rear job (although if you have ECS feature, you'll need to undo the two upper shock bolts and unplug the connection, undo the pin connection from the shock in order to take off the top hat and change the bumpstops). No special wrench needed in the front for the S5, just patience.

I lowered my S5 with H&R springs and approached the rear the same exact way. It was incredibly quick.
Just got my car aligned today. Both front and rears were out of whack but the shop got everything back into spec. Shop said technically you “should have the rear camera, acc, and lane assist all readjusted but it’s not necessary given the extent of the adjustments made.” The only part that worried me is the fronts are still cambered slightly according to the shop. He said it’s slight and might not effect anything but obviously could lead to more rapid tread wear.
My springs are stated to lower less than an inch but now post settlement it’s definitely at least an inch if not more.

[EuroCK]

Thanks for the info and videos! So install on the RS5 should basically be the same as all the B9s, with the exception of having to keep the front dampers attached the car (via the DRC lines). This will make the front spring install more of a PITA on the RS5, but the process is none-the-less the same.

Does your S5 have Adaptive Cruise? If so, any issues with the calibration after the spring install?



Great info for the rear spring install. Thanks!

The ABT HAS doesn't drop the RS5 significantly (TAG's website quotes a max of 3/4 of an inch), so I'm not sure the DRC refill and ACC calibration is actually required. Then again, I haven't seen any definitive guidance or experiences.

No, the car doesn't have adaptive cruise, but what I've read and have been told you shouldn't need to calibrate. If you do, just pick up a OBDEleven and reset on your own.


Yeah my rear is at max setting, I wish there was another 1/4" to drop it but the ride is as close to OEM as it gets.

[TSpoolin]

I lowered my S5 with H&R springs and approached the rear the same exact way. It was incredibly quick.
Just got my car aligned today. Both front and rears were out of whack but the shop got everything back into spec. Shop said technically you “should have the rear camera, acc, and lane assist all readjusted but it’s not necessary given the extent of the adjustments made.” The only part that worried me is the fronts are still cambered slightly according to the shop. He said it’s slight and might not effect anything but obviously could lead to more rapid tread wear.
My springs are stated to lower less than an inch but now post settlement it’s definitely at least an inch if not more.

If you experience premature inner tire wear in the front, you can always add the 034 adjustable upper control arms to correct the camber. I used them on my B9 S5 and they worked great. On another note, I'm going to give it a go on installing my KW HAS on my RS5 this weekend, so will find out how things go.

[Dr. Jekyll]

I just received my ABT HAS from Nemesis yesterday. I'll be installing them and doing a DIY write-up as soon as my Jackpoint jack stands arrive.

[idrinkv8]

If you experience premature inner tire wear in the front, you can always add the 034 adjustable upper control arms to correct the camber. I used them on my B9 S5 and they worked great. On another note, I'm going to give it a go on installing my KW HAS on my RS5 this weekend, so will find out how things go.

Let us know how it goes!

[TSpoolin]

Did the rear install this afternoon. Relatively simple, as I took a short cut and trimmed the OEM bumpstops on th dampers about 1/2 inch instead of de-pinning the damper plug, removing the tophat and replacing the bumpstops. This certainly saved some time and head aches with the rears. I took the same approach I mentioned above where I removed the lower damper bolt, then the inner adjustable camber bolt for the lower control arm - this allows the lower control arm to drop and the spring to come out with no issues. Then replace with the new KW HAS spring (adjustable section on top, using the OEM bottom rubber spring pad), and use the jack to align the lower control arm to re-install the adjustable inner camber bolt and finally re-installing the damper lower bolt. Tomorrow morning will be time for the fronts and then some basic alignment to allow me to drive a day or two to allow everything to settle before a real alignment. Remember to final tighten rear toe arm/ camber bolt in rear with weight on the wheels (I use ramps) and the front swaybar also needs to be final tightened with weight on the wheels (ramps again for me). Good luck to everyone with the DIY.

[Mops@Nemesis]

I just received my ABT HAS from Nemesis yesterday. I'll be installing them and doing a DIY write-up as soon as my Jackpoint jack stands arrive.

Looking forward to it Kevin!

[JohnEnglish]

How do you find the ride on the ABT springs compared to the OEM ones?

[Dr. Jekyll]

How do you find the ride on the ABT springs compared to the OEM ones?

TSpoolin has the KWs which are supposedly a little stiffer than the ABTs. Once I have my ABTs installed, I'll also provide my impressions of them and a comparison to stock.

[Dr. Jekyll]

Did the rear install this afternoon. Relatively simple, as I took a short cut and trimmed the OEM bumpstops on th dampers about 1/2 inch instead of de-pinning the damper plug, removing the tophat and replacing the bumpstops. This certainly saved some time and head aches with the rears. I took the same approach I mentioned above where I removed the lower damper bolt, then the inner adjustable camber bolt for the lower control arm - this allows the lower control arm to drop and the spring to come out with no issues. Then replace with the new KW HAS spring (adjustable section on top, using the OEM bottom rubber spring pad), and use the jack to align the lower control arm to re-install the adjustable inner camber bolt and finally re-installing the damper lower bolt. Tomorrow morning will be time for the fronts and then some basic alignment to allow me to drive a day or two to allow everything to settle before a real alignment. Remember to final tighten rear toe arm/ camber bolt in rear with weight on the wheels (I use ramps) and the front swaybar also needs to be final tightened with weight on the wheels (ramps again for me). Good luck to everyone with the DIY.

Thanks for the writeup! That's definitely helpful. While I'm sure cutting the the stock rear bump-stop is much quicker (and just as effective), since my car is just sitting in the garage for the foreseeable future (thanks coronavirus...) I'll be swapping on the ABT supplied rear bump stops as well. I just need to figure out what terminal pin tool I need buy.

[Dr. Jekyll]

Looking forward to it Kevin!

Thanks Mops! Great working with you and Martin!

[TSpoolin]

Thanks for the writeup! That's definitely helpful. While I'm sure cutting the the stock rear bump-stop is much quicker (and just as effective), since my car is just sitting in the garage for the for-seeable future (thanks coronavirus...) I'll be swapping on the ABT supplied rear bump stops as well. I just need to figure out what terminal pin tool I need buy.

That's the right way to do it, replacing the bumpstops. I'll give it some time and see how my 'cut' bumpstops work. If not satisfied, then I'll go back and do it the right way. Getting ready to tackle the fronts today.

[idrinkv8]

That's the right way to do it, replacing the bumpstops. I'll give it some time and see how my 'cut' bumpstops work. If not satisfied, then I'll go back and do it the right way. Getting ready to tackle the fronts today.

Good luck buddy! Anybody in the westchester area know how to do this? Haha need a hand when this covid is over...

[JohnEnglish]

One thing I’ve found, and I’ve seen it mentioned in some reviews too, is that even on a seemingly smooth road the car feels like it’s going over tiny bumps constantly. I’ve had cars with stiff suspension before and on the same roads they felt smooth (except when you hit a bump). I’m wondering if different springs will help.

[Dr. Jekyll]

I removed the lower damper bolt, then the inner adjustable camber bolt for the lower control arm - this allows the lower control arm to drop and the spring to come out with no issues.

Is that a Torx nut on inner camber bolt? And do you happen to know the size?

I'm trying to make sure I have all the right tools for the job since I can't just run to Autozone mid-swap with everything being shut down.

[wwhan]

One thing I’ve found, and I’ve seen it mentioned in some reviews too, is that even on a seemingly smooth road the car feels like it’s going over tiny bumps constantly. I’ve had cars with stiff suspension before and on the same roads they felt smooth (except when you hit a bump). I’m wondering if different springs will help.

With DRC on auto or sport?

[JohnEnglish]

Mainly when I set the suspension in dynamic. I’ve even seen it mentioned in some reviews too.

They mention it here starting at 12:05

https://youtu.be/jRDRQ0_NxHY

[TSpoolin]

Is that a Torx nut on inner camber bolt? And do you happen to know the size?

I'm trying to make sure I have all the right tools for the job since I can't just run to Autozone mid-swap with everything being shut down.

It may be a torx and I did not have one that big, so I used a 12 point 21mm wrench for the rear facing nut, while the forward facing bolt head is an 18mm. The rear toe is a 18mm nut with an odd size shaft sticking out that I just used a vice grip to get a good grip and turn/adjust the toe. Actually the same style shaft protruding to the rear is how the camber is actually adjusted, although you can access the forward side 18mm bolt head with the plastic lower control arm guard off.

I finished the fronts this afternoon. Not too bad, just played around some on how to angle the damper to remove the spring and re-install the HAS kit. One thing I did, that many will not do, is to loosen the damper top rod nut while still attached to the strut tower, thus not needing to use a spring compressor in a tight space. I find that the Audi OEM springs are not loaded very much and there were no surprises for me. Not that I'm recommending this (do it at your own risk), but it worked well for me. I loosened the sway bar top connection and completely removed the lower sway connection bolt. Take the lower damper bolt/nut off, release the upper knuckle pinch bolt (I removed the upper control arms for more room, too, as I replaced them with adjustable 034 upper control arms for camber correction (not sure I really needed them with this relatively mild drop, but already had them from my S5). I also took the flat retaining spring off the damper that held the hydraulic line to the damper itself to allow more 'wiggle' room for the damper. This allowed me to maneuver the damper where I could complete removing the top hat and OEM spring/perch an replace with the HAS kit while still in the 'wheelwell.' Then proceeded to button her back up and do some rough alignment before taking her out for a spin. Will drive some miles to let things settle, then will go get an alignment at a shop I trust. I'll also get an idea relative to hydraulic pressure (DRC) and if needs adjustment and how well my cut rear bumpstops work. Initial drive felt good with no apparent issues. Good luck!

Lowered.jpg

[Dr. Jekyll]

Looks great!

Let us know if the DRC pressure needs any adjustment or if the ACC / Driver's assistance stuff starts acting weird.

It seemed like a 21mm 12-point deep socket or box wrench would work on the rear camber adjustment nut. But, with my luck, I'll round it unless I use the right tool... I'm pretty sure it's an E-torx (aka: external torx) socket that's required. But I'm not sure if it's an E20 or E21. E20's are easy to find. But I can't find an E21 E-torx anywhere.

I'll likely be doing the install next weekend, so I really appreciate you paving the way and posting all your tips. I'll consolidate all of our lessons-learned into one write up (with pics) for the community once I'm done.

[TSpoolin]

So far, everything is good. I have now driven about 300 miles since completing the lowering job with no issues that I can tell/notice. The ride is slightly stiffer (expected since I went with the KW HAS) and is just right for me in the auto suspension mode for normal driving (I have my Individual set for everything Dynamic except for the Auto suspension mode, and drive the majority of the time in this mode). Actually feels similar in the Dynamic suspension mode, as before installing the KW's. So at this point, for me, I'm thinking I do not need to have the hydraulic fluid/pressure level adjusted in the DRC. I did get an alignment last Friday, and I had the camber within spec but needed some slight toe tweaks.

[idrinkv8]

So far, everything is good. I have now driven about 65 miles since completing the lowering job with no issues that I can tell/notice. The ride is slightly stiffer (expected since I went with the KW HAS) and is just right for me in the auto suspension mode for normal driving (I have my Individual set for everything Dynamic except for the Auto suspension mode, and drive the majority of the time in this mode). Actually feels similar in the Dynamic suspension mode. So at this point, for me, I'm thinking I do not need to have the hydraulic fluid/pressure level adjusted in the DRC. I will get an alignment this Friday or Saturday, even though the car drives straight will no pull or odd feel (I did my best 'eyeball' alignment), to make sure I get reasonable tire wear. If things change, I'll be sure to report back.

What specialty tools do I need for this what strut but socked do I need? Notched or no?

[TSpoolin]

What specialty tools do I need for this what strut but socked do I need? Notched or no?

Mainly 16mm and 18mm wrenches and sockets for damper lower mounts and front swaybar bolts. 21mm notched socket for damper top rod nut (specialty socket for taking off damper top rod nuts - thin wall/notched). I used a 21mm 12 point for rear inner camber nut even though it may be a torx socket, and it worked just fine. You may need spring compressors unless you're willing to do what I did in the front described above. Good luck!

[idrinkv8]

Mainly 16mm and 18mm wrenches and sockets for damper lower mounts and front swaybar bolts. 21mm notched socket for damper top rod nut (specialty socket for taking off damper top rod nuts - thin wall/notched). I used a 21mm 12 point for rear inner camber nut even though it may be a torx socket, and it worked just fine. You may need spring compressors unless you're willing to do what I did in the front described above. Good luck!

Thanks man sounds good!

[vsaudi]

Thanks Guys
I have a set of springs on the shelf ready for install.
This is motivating me.


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[TSpoolin]

Thanks Guys
I have a set of springs on the shelf ready for install.
This is motivating me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some more incentive - the look

767A2912.jpg

[cyang1]

Some more incentive - the look

767A2912.jpg

I have a set of kw springs, but I'm still debating on how low I should go. Your set up is what I'm looking for. How much lower did you end up going for the front and rear ?

[TSpoolin]

I have a set of kw springs, but I'm still debating on how low I should go. Your set up is what I'm looking for. How much lower did you end up going for the front and rear ?

I ended up at ~26.25" fender height in the rear and ~26.125" in the front, after settling. I was probably just slightly higher when I installed the KW kit. Pretty close to the low side in the rear of the KW adjustability. Front could go lower by a bit, but I don't need it.

[idrinkv8]

It may be a torx and I did not have one that big, so I used a 12 point 21mm wrench for the rear facing nut, while the forward facing bolt head is an 18mm. The rear toe is a 18mm nut with an odd size shaft sticking out that I just used a vice grip to get a good grip and turn/adjust the toe. Actually the same style shaft protruding to the rear is how the camber is actually adjusted, although you can access the forward side 18mm bolt head with the plastic lower control arm guard off.

I finished the fronts this afternoon. Not too bad, just played around some on how to angle the damper to remove the spring and re-install the HAS kit. One thing I did, that many will not do, is to loosen the damper top rod nut while still attached to the strut tower, thus not needing to use a spring compressor in a tight space. I find that the Audi OEM springs are not loaded very much and there were no surprises for me. Not that I'm recommending this (do it at your own risk), but it worked well for me. I loosened the sway bar top connection and completely removed the lower sway connection bolt. Take the lower damper bolt/nut off, release the upper knuckle pinch bolt (I removed the upper control arms for more room, too, as I replaced them with adjustable 034 upper control arms for camber correction (not sure I really needed them with this relatively mild drop, but already had them from my S5). I also took the flat retaining spring off the damper that held the hydraulic line to the damper itself to allow more 'wiggle' room for the damper. This allowed me to maneuver the damper where I could complete removing the top hat and OEM spring/perch an replace with the HAS kit while still in the 'wheelwell.' Then proceeded to button her back up and do some rough alignment before taking her out for a spin. Will drive some miles to let things settle, then will go get an alignment at a shop I trust. I'll also get an idea relative to hydraulic pressure (DRC) and if needs adjustment and how well my cut rear bumpstops work. Initial drive felt good with no apparent issues. Good luck!

Lowered.jpg

When you removed the damper top bolt how did you release tension from the spring.?

Also have you gotten it aligned yet? Were the adjustable upper arms necessary?

[TSpoolin]

When you removed the damper top bolt how did you release tension from the spring.?

Also have you gotten it aligned yet? Were the adjustable upper arms necessary?

There was very little tension in the front springs. I just had the damper ready to remove/tilt by undoing the lower damper mount bolt, the upper control arms released from the pinch bolt on the knuckle and both swaybar bolts (the link bolt to the damper fork and the bolt to the bar itself) - then I removed the damper top bolt (no excitement from the spring being released). I did not need to remove the damper from the lower fork. I did have the car aligned. Hard to say if you'll need the adjustable upper control arms - it will be based on how low you go and what camber is acceptable to you. I had the adjustable arms already, so I decided to install them, as this car is my daily driver and I wanted to make sure my tire wear was good.

[idrinkv8]

There was very little tension in the front springs. I just had the damper ready to remove/tilt by undoing the lower damper mount bolt, the upper control arms released from the pinch bolt on the knuckle and both swaybar bolts (the link bolt to the damper fork and the bolt to the bar itself) - then I removed the damper top bolt (no excitement from the spring being released). I did not need to remove the damper from the lower fork. I did have the car aligned. Hard to say if you'll need the adjustable upper control arms - it will be based on how low you go and what camber is acceptable to you. I had the adjustable arms already, so I decided to install them, as this car is my daily driver and I wanted to make sure my tire wear was good.

Thanks for the response. I would try the same in the front but I’m doing coilovers so unfortunately I’ll have to remove the whole assembly from the fork. As far as the alignment goes I’m going to get the reading and take it from there. Perhaps it’ll be close enough to not have to spend another $500 but we’ll see!

[vsaudi]

I did the HAS install and changed spacers.
The springs did not have that much tension but I used the spring compressor anyways. The cheaper compressor from ECS is all you need. Biggest issue I had was top nut. For fun tried the socket/vise grip/triple hex but vice grips slipped on socket. Impact wrench took them right off.
Really love the ride compared to stock.
Lowered front and back about 15mm


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