Is there a trick for centering wheels when using spacers without hub-centering

[swbca]

I needed spacers to clear some large calipers. 6mm would be enough, but APR does not make hub-centric spacers small than 10mm. The 6mm caused wheel balance shake. I also had some APR 10mm with hub centering and they run smooth - no balance problem, but I wanted to use the thinnest spacers needed for the calipers.

When I called APR to return some other 6mm that I had ordered but not opened, they said that I should just "center them carefully". Sounded like a smart-ass remark to me. I didn't bother to ask how to do that. I had tried tightening the lug bolts in small increments to permit the acorn taper in the bolts to help center before clamp-force against the hub took over, but it didn't help.

[Fresh.S4]

You should return them. You need hubcentric to keep the wheel from shaking.

[MacFady]

Centering them carefully is not the answer. The small spacers generally are not hubcentric because they are thin enough that there is usually a small amount of the hub ring that still protrudes past the spacer for the wheel to sit on, but as you found out that is usually not enough to prevent vibrations etc. because you still end up with more of a lug-centric set-up instead of a true hubcentric set-up.
Can I ask why you want to just use the smallest spacers to clear the caliper instead of going with say 10mm? Do you have clearance issues with the fender otherwise with 10mm spacers due to your wheel offset? You might be able to find 8mm Hubcentric spacers but I can't recall seeing 5mm hubcentric spacers before (even though lots advertise them as such, you only have to look at a picture to see they are not, in terms of them having a lip for the wheel).

[swbca]

You should return them. You need hubcentric to keep the wheel from shaking.

I am returning them. APR is a quality brand, making me wonder why the sell the thinner spacers.

[swbca]

Can I ask why you want to just use the smallest spacers to clear the caliper instead of going with say 10mm? .

No good reason, except keeping the offset as close to stock as possible. I track the car with big brakes and track tires . . a lot of braking at around 1.3 G and I read an article on the keeping the braking forces centered on the steering pivot axis (don't remember the precise terminology) to minimize the tow-out forces that happen when the tires are moved out. But its no big problem going 4mm thicker to solve the problem, now that I know the 6mm shake.

[smudgeface]

Are you using aftermarket rims? Many of the smaller spacers only work with factory rings, because they have an integrated chamfer that’s works with the wheel design to assist with centering. Most aftermarket wheels have a significantly large chamfer, since they assume you will use a hub centric ring - they don’t want the rings to interfere with the chamfer.

[Silver Streakin]

You might be able to find rings. But I'd just use hub centric spacers, and longer bolts.

[thaifoodninja]

Some cars are only lug-centric. meaning the seat (this is where spherical vs conical) of the lug nut/bolt centers the wheel. There is a way to center a wheel by progressively tightening the wheels down with your lug nuts/bolts in the proper pattern. It's more work, but doable.

[Ashtonts]

I've run 6mm shim-style spacers without any vibration issues. With the spacer on the hub, is there any play if you try to move the spacer radially? You may just have a set of spacers with poor tolerances allowing too much play and causing vibrations.