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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Oil Leak between Engine and Transmission

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    I have found a leak between what it seems like the Engine and Transmission on my 2013 Audi S4 88xxx miles. Im wondering if anybody has any insight as to where this is coming from ?
    Could it be the rear main seal leaking down. I wiped the seam clean and let it run for about 5 mins and was wet again at the seam, It looks like there is a bolt missing ? from the center position. The shop I took it to diagnosed it as the Driver side timing cover leaking down which I think is an issue as well but this seems to be a separate issue. Thought it could be the oil filter housing but I have since changed the filter housing cover with an aluminum one.

    PICTURES : https://imgur.com/a/3xTBWTu

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Active Member Two Rings A4Torque's Avatar
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    Hi, In the photos you see there is a little black plastic hatch or cover. You can just pop that off and with a torch you will see the flywheel. If it's wet in there you will then know a seal is faulty.

    Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    I have found a leak between what it seems like the Engine and Transmission on my 2013 Audi S4 88xxx miles. Im wondering if anybody has any insight as to where this is coming from ?
    Could it be the rear main seal leaking down. I wiped the seam clean and let it run for about 5 mins and was wet again at the seam, It looks like there is a bolt missing ? from the center position. The shop I took it to diagnosed it as the Driver side timing cover leaking down which I think is an issue as well but this seems to be a separate issue. Thought it could be the oil filter housing but I have since changed the filter housing cover with an aluminum one.

    PICTURES : https://imgur.com/a/3xTBWTu

    Thanks in advance
    I had the exact same problem a month ago, 70k miles. It’s the oil filter housing gasket that’s leaking.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings Allan691's Avatar
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    I recently noticed oil on the oil cooler lines under the engine in this same general vicinity. See my pics.. Any ideas on this leak? TIA

    IMG_2934.JPGIMG_2935.JPG
    2009 Euro-spec Black Optics S4 Avant APR Stage 2 APR SC pulley + JHM187 with APR Open Air Intake • CR-15 + AK + Eurocode USS + Diff + Trans inserts • P3

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Ok I was hoping that it wouldn't be the rear main seal but you guys are thinking that it is the oil filter housing gasket guess that won't be as bad. This is at the center of the car BTW

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    Ok I was hoping that it wouldn't be the rear main seal but you guys are thinking that it is the oil filter housing gasket guess that won't be as bad. This is at the center of the car BTW
    It’s the center and leak down toward driver side. You have to remove the supercharger to change that housing gasket
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I gotchya. Car is going to a different shop in the middle of next month and I reminded him of the oil filter adaptor housing seal and he was leaning towards that as well. Hopefully that will resolve it.
    Thanks everyone for the tips.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    I gotchya. Car is going to a different shop in the middle of next month and I reminded him of the oil filter adaptor housing seal and he was leaning towards that as well. Hopefully that will resolve it.
    Thanks everyone for the tips.
    While the supercharger is off to charge oil filter gasket housing, you might want to do intake carbon cleaning, pcv, thermostat and water pump.

    When my thermostat failed, I took the opportunity to change pcv, water pump and carbon cleaning. However, didn't predict oil gasket housing and that cost extra labor.😤
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings
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    When I swapped on my ported blower, they changed PCV, water pump and thermostat, new intercoolers too lol. They told me the valves looked pretty clean, so that's already been taken care of recently. Wish they would have caught this tho. Thanks again!

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings B8S4inKC's Avatar
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    I had noticed oil build up on the front of the transmission (near the engine) and assumed it was a rear main seal. I cleaned the area, put UV additive in and took to the dealership and they replaced valve cover gaskets. Thank god for the extended warranty - saved me $1700. Anyways, if its engine oil, be sure to add UV tracer and run it before you take it anywhere, saves the shop a step. Good luck!

    Side note, is rear main seal leaking common on this platform? Don't think I've seen anything about it on here....

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Not really sure if the rear main seal is common. I haven't read any instances of it happening but you never know. I think I'm still leaning towards either upper timing cover or oil filter adaptor housing. I put in Liqui Moly- Moly gen oil so that should help. Wont be able to take it to the shop until another week or so.
    Thanks for the tip.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Silver Streakin's Avatar
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    Are you sure it's not just sloppy oil changes?

    If you're not putting a rag under the housing when removing the filter cartridge, and waiting a few seconds to let the filter drain into the housing, you'll get oil running down. And then it looks like a leak when it's not.

    At my first DIY oil change, I too thought it was a leak. Cleaned it up to never see it again. I assume the PO used a shop who rushed oil changes. That was 9-10 5k oil changes ago.
    2011 S4, 6M, BB/panda, Sport diff, ADS, B&O | UniTronic stage 3 Dual Pulley | MercRacing HX | RocEuro intake | AWE Track & DPs resonated | H&R c/o w/Bilstein B8 rears| 19" VMR 710 & 19" Peelers | 034 trans insert | AK brace | CR15 bar | DEVAL CF Diffuser

    SOLD 2007 S4 DTM, Phantom Black Pearl, manual | JHM | FI | H&R | VMR | 034

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  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Almost certain that is not just a sloppy oil change, the previous oil change was done at the dealer finishing up the POs audi care. This most recent oil change was done by myself and after I did it I cleaned what I could underneath. And like I mentioned earlier I wiped the seam several times and it kept coming back. I also replaced the oil filter adaptor cover and cleaned housing as best as I could. I noticed some oil on the bottom mounting bolt for the filter adaptor housing which is what I'm leaning towards for the issue.

  14. #14
    Junior Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    Almost certain that is not just a sloppy oil change, the previous oil change was done at the dealer finishing up the POs audi care. This most recent oil change was done by myself and after I did it I cleaned what I could underneath. And like I mentioned earlier I wiped the seam several times and it kept coming back. I also replaced the oil filter adaptor cover and cleaned housing as best as I could. I noticed some oil on the bottom mounting bolt for the filter adaptor housing which is what I'm leaning towards for the issue.
    Let me know how you make out. I am chasing the same leak, so I am going to throw it up on stands this weekend to clean everything down really good. I am hoping it is the OFHG (ugh just replaced that on my 335xi), but that would be better than the rear main seal. I have been looking around the Internet too and can't find if the rear main seal is an issue on the B8 or not. Anyone else figure that one out yet?

    Good luck chasing this one down.

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Just seeing this thread. Does anyone have the part# from audi on the Oil Filter Housing gasket? Need this ASAP.

  16. #16
    Junior Member One Ring
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    This is what I found out on the Internet, but I could be way off on this one. Please take the time to double check the part number against multiple sites. NAPA's site says it is a direct fit to the 3.0T Supercharged engines, but I would do your own research.

    MAHLE MOG B32542

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bolivianfuego View Post
    Just seeing this thread. Does anyone have the part# from audi on the Oil Filter Housing gasket? Need this ASAP.
    06E115405K housing + gasket

    06E115446 gasket only
    Last edited by TC_S4; 03-10-2020 at 09:16 AM.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Thanks! That would be the whole housing.

    Did I get that wrong? I shouldn't jsut replace the gasket itself, but the whole Oil Filter Adapter itself?

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...er/06e115405k/

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bolivianfuego View Post
    Thanks! That would be the whole housing.

    Did I get that wrong? I shouldn't jsut replace the gasket itself, but the whole Oil Filter Adapter itself?

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...er/06e115405k/
    If you DIY just the gasket

    If by a shop don't take chance the whole damn think. Some shop don't change gasket only, if it leaks, they charge you labour again.
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Car will be going to the shop next week. I found a brand new housing with gasket on ebay for pretty cheap part # 06E115405K
    I figure if they are digging into it that deep might as well replace the whole assembly instead of chancing it leaking again.
    Hopefully this resolves the issue. Will keep everyone updated.

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    Car will be going to the shop next week. I found a brand new housing with gasket on ebay for pretty cheap part # 06E115405K
    I figure if they are digging into it that deep might as well replace the whole assembly instead of chancing it leaking again.
    Hopefully this resolves the issue. Will keep everyone updated.
    uhm.. not sure it's a good idea buying an oil filter housing on Ebay, unless it's a original part from VW/Audi. I had bad experience with trunk latches, that I bought from Ebay & Amazon. The latch keep breaking every 5 to 6 months. Keep changing them till I'm fed up and decide to buy the original part from Audi. Never have issue after.

    If you're not getting the original housing, you're better off changing just the seal vs an ebay housing
    Audi 2013 S-Tronic | REVO Stage 1+| REVO TCU tune| MercRacing Heat Exchanger | AFe intake | ECS cross drilled slotted rotors | Hawks HPS 5.0| Vibrant 90mm double wall Stainless steel tips | Resonated Xpipe

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings a4lownslow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TC_S4 View Post
    uhm.. not sure it's a good idea to buy an oil filter housing on Ebay, unless it's a original part from VW/Audi. I had bad experience with trunk latches, that I bought from Ebay & Amazon. The latch keep breaking every 5 to 6 months. Keep changing them till I'm fed up and decide to buy the original part from Audi. Never have issue after.
    Second this. Stick with OEM. I just replaced one on a 3.2 which uses the same housing as the 3.0T. Bought one for $50 off eBay installed, and shortly after began getting oil pressure light as well as chain rattle on startup. The cheap housing was allowing the oil to drain completely out of the housing when the car was not running. First clue was when I removed the oil filter and there was NO oil in there.

    Pay the 250$ for OEM, it’s not worth the headache to cheap out on this part.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Yes Iam aware of this I lucked out and the housing I purchased was an OEM VW/Audi part that somebody was selling for about half price. It was brand new in the box. Even came with a MANN filter. I wouldn't chance it with an aftermarket part with something like this. This isn't my first rodeo. Thanks for looking out tho.

  24. #24
    Junior Member One Ring
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    SRosey - How did you make out? Was it your OFHG?

  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings
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    So Just an update I didn't end up taking the car to the shop but I did change out the Oil filter housing with a brand new OEM one with seal on my own. This was sort of a pain in the dick. Pulling the blower was the easiest part. Of course Audi had to use triple square bolts on the housing which are one of the most uncommon bolts. I think the housing was ONE of my culprits. The old housing had built up sludge on the bottom bolt and around the housing. The seal looked pretty flattened out. I cleaned up the underside real good and around the housing and torqued the new one on, even pulled the transmission X brace and cleaned under it and near the bell housing. Unfortunately a few days later the leak is still there. Only this time it's not AS bad. There are drips on the input for the steering shaft on the rack and migrating down to the X brace and only a slight amount in the center of the bell housing now. From what I can see with a mirror and a flashlight, it looks to be coming from the bottom of the timing cover and that same side (DRIVERS). It is kind of hard to tell because there is a heat shield there. This is what an Indy shop first diagnosed, but I think it was a combo of both the cover and the housing.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by srosey View Post
    So Just an update I didn't end up taking the car to the shop but I did change out the Oil filter housing with a brand new OEM one with seal on my own. This was sort of a pain in the dick. Pulling the blower was the easiest part. Of course Audi had to use triple square bolts on the housing which are one of the most uncommon bolts. I think the housing was ONE of my culprits. The old housing had built up sludge on the bottom bolt and around the housing. The seal looked pretty flattened out. I cleaned up the underside real good and around the housing and torqued the new one on, even pulled the transmission X brace and cleaned under it and near the bell housing. Unfortunately a few days later the leak is still there. Only this time it's not AS bad. There are drips on the input for the steering shaft on the rack and migrating down to the X brace and only a slight amount in the center of the bell housing now. From what I can see with a mirror and a flashlight, it looks to be coming from the bottom of the timing cover and that same side (DRIVERS). It is kind of hard to tell because there is a heat shield there. This is what an Indy shop first diagnosed, but I think it was a combo of both the cover and the housing.
    Could be the upper timing chain covers. I thought I had a RMS leak but it ended up being the timing chain covers that needed to be resealed. My leak was very very small compared to yours, though.
    2011 Phantom Black Effect S4 6MT Prestige, Sport Differential, Flat-Bottom Steering wheel with red stitching, RS4 Aluminum pedals, 034 Transmission mount, Roc-Euro Intake, Roc-Euro Short Shifter, 90mm AWE Touring Exhaust with stock downpipes, Unitronic Stage 2+, JHM 179mm Overdrive Crank Pulley, MercRacing heat exchanger, Stasis rear sway bar, CR-15, Gloss Black RS4 Grille, Sachs Xtend Clutch, 034 Density-Line Motor Mounts, Bilstein B12 Suspension Cup-Kit

  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Does anybody know if there is a DIY out there for doing the cover. It doesn't seem that difficult. I was quoted around 600$ with new cover at an Indy shop. I have already ordered a new cover just so it is easier to re seal which is what the shop was going to do anyway. In the shop manual it says to remove the kitty kat and combi valve but Ive got test pipes so I'm thinking this won't be necessary. Will probably be removing the heat shield sometime soon just so I can get a better look at the cover.
    Any thought or tips would be great.
    Thanks everyone.

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Nobody ?

  29. #29
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    Hi -

    Here is what I have been reading on the tech manual. No one string me up please, since I am learning as I go. I have the same leak, but it is worse on the passenger side.

    Steps from the manual:

    1. Remove the left and right Secondary Air Injection combination valves.
    a. To do this you need to remove the following...
    1. Remove the front mufflers connected to the cats. Note that the gaskets are a mandatory replacement when reinstalling.
    2. The manual states to remove the plenum chamber bulkhead, but can someone jump in here and state if this is really needed?
    3. Remove the connector for the oxygen sensor and then unbolt the cat.
    4. At this point you can remove the heat shield.
    b. Remove the secondary air hose and vacuum line.
    c. Remove the bolts to the AIR combination valve.
    a. You must replace the seal when reinstalling.
    2. At this point you have access to the upper timing chain covers...

    Let me pull together all of the torque specs for everything and I will post them too.

  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Thats what I was reading in the repair manual but since I have test pipes was wondering if some of the steps could be left out.

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