Average clutch life on a non modified manual? Should I just replace it?

[Longwolf]

So my S5 is in for for new timing chain tensioners, they are fine but rattle a lot on cold start up for a car with only 55k miles. So my dealer is doing me a huge favor and replacing them with the newer design as a good will gesture (it pays to be good to your dealer). They decided to drop the engine in order to access them, and I asked them if there is anything I should do while it is out. They suggested I think about having the clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal replaced since the engine is out and the labor cost would be very minimal. Clutch seems to be performing fine, and rear main is not leaking.

Should I bother? With only 55k miles on an unmodified car that I never beat on, should I just risk that the clutch will last to 120k+ miles, or just do it all now as preventative?

[audifan22]

I'm at 113k original clutch.

[BucDan]

How long do you plan on keeping the car? Personally, it depends on the cost of the clutch and materials. I already have a feeling they're going to ask for a lot. If you don't drive too badly, the clutch should last over 100k easily.

[jaxkewl]

Get a price and report back. Cost is the deciding factor

[wes8398]

I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Should have plenty of life left in the OEM clutch if you're not tuned and beating on it all the time.

[Longwolf]

3500 for clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal. Don’t have a breakdown yet. Thanks!


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[Phil.Lmbrt]

3500 for clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal. Don’t have a breakdown yet. Thanks!


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That's a lot..

I did not even pay that in CDN$ with labor and it was a Sachs Xtend. Clutch + Flywheel + Rear Main Seal + All new hardware + Labor

[seandon_792]

I would say cost and if you can get something a little more robust with not too much out of your pocket go for it.

On the other hand I’m at 118k (tuned stage 1 for the last 40k) on a 10 year old clutch and it doesn’t slip one bit.


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[BucDan]

Simple answer is no. You can get better parts with labor that is still cheaper than their quote.

[zaxophne]

Is it slipping?

[Senseless]

No. You may want to trade it before you hit the end of clutch life and that quote is no bargain anyway. 109,000 miles on my OE clutch, BTW.

[Longwolf]

Not slipping at all. And I won’t be trading this car in ever. I’ll own it for the long haul, 200k or more. Unless AoA suddenly starts employing enthusiasts again and brings back the manual in the S5. Ha, that even sounded ridiculous as I typed it.


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[Dr GP]

Not slipping at all. And I won’t be trading this car in ever. I’ll own it for the long haul, 200k or more. Unless AoA suddenly starts employing enthusiasts again and brings back the manual in the S5. Ha, that even sounded ridiculous as I typed it.


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If its working properly, let it alone until you notice problems. Clutch life is usually directly proportional to how the clutch was used or abused. My 2011, which I,was the 3rd owner,was working just fine @ 80k miles.

[Silver Streakin]

97k with original clutch.

Stage 1 in the 45k range
Stage 2 not long after that.

[CrownSeven]

You sure like making unnecessary repairs don’t you. Timing chain is bad enough. Clutch too? Might as well get a new engine.

[ksminiman]

The stock clutch is plenty strong and reliable if bled properly and the clutch damper is removed by replacing the line with an ECS tuning exact fit stainless steel clutch line. The damper in the stock line causes the clutch to slip during hard shifts or launches which damages it fairly quickly. If this line is installed, the clutch life will then be determined 100% by the driver, not the damper.

[jsh139]

$3,500 would be higher than the cost for an entire clutch job, start to finish (at an independent mechanic). Since they're already dropping the engine, you should be saving a significant amount of cash in labor. The problem is, it's the dealer overcharging you. I'd leave it alone.

[MrFunk]

I'm on original clutch since bought new almost 10 years ago. No NEED to pro-actively replace however it all depends on how you "abuse" the clutch and your driving style. If you want to launch this car you will need an upgraded clutch even with factory spec power.

[EstorilS4]

No need to replace the clutch proactively. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Mow the slave cylinder, on the other hand...My slave failed at ~50k miles. Got in the car, pushed clutch pedal, and as soon as my foot hit the pedal it sucked to the floor. The plastic slaves on this car seem to be the weak link. I'd get yourself an extended slave from @jbullin just to have on-hand. If there were any parts on my B8.5 I'd consider replacing at regular intervals just to be proactive, it would be the slave cylinder about every 50k-75k miles, and the PCV valve about every 75k-100k miles.

[EstorilS4]

No need to replace the clutch proactively. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Mow the slave cylinder, on the other hand...My slave failed at ~50k miles. Got in the car, pushed clutch pedal, and as soon as my foot hit the pedal it sucked to the floor. The plastic slaves on this car seem to be the weak link. I'd get yourself an extended slave from @jbullin2 just to have on-hand. If there were any parts on my B8.5 I'd consider replacing at regular intervals just to be proactive, it would be the slave cylinder about every 50k-75k miles, and the PCV valve about every 75k-100k miles.

For reference: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...h-switch-issue

[Snowmonkey]

So my S5 is in for for new timing chain tensioners, they are fine but rattle a lot on cold start up for a car with only 55k miles. So my dealer is doing me a huge favor and replacing them with the newer design as a good will gesture (it pays to be good to your dealer). They decided to drop the engine in order to access them, and I asked them if there is anything I should do while it is out. They suggested I think about having the clutch, flywheel, and rear main seal replaced since the engine is out and the labor cost would be very minimal. Clutch seems to be performing fine, and rear main is not leaking.

Should I bother? With only 55k miles on an unmodified car that I never beat on, should I just risk that the clutch will last to 120k+ miles, or just do it all now as preventative?

Probably not worth it. Labor at my local german shop was only about 1000 bucks, had mine changed just under 100k. You should have plenty of life left. if you really want to save money just wait until the clutch and flywheel go on sale and then bring it to the shop to install. i saved probably 500 bucks that way.

[Longwolf]

No need to replace the clutch proactively. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Now the slave cylinder, on the other hand...My slave failed at ~50k miles.

Funny, my slave cylinder did already fail at 50K miles. It started dripping fluid down into the drive footwell. My S5 was only 2 years out of warranty at that point, but dealer replaced it for free.

[Longwolf]

Good advice all around guys. Thanks for saving me the money. I'll just keep driving the car until the clutch truly fails. At the rate I put miles on this car, it will take me 4 years to put another 30K miles on the car, so this will be something to worry about way down the line. I also am very cautious with this car, no drag racing, no rev clutch drops, etc. So with your feedback, I am sure I'll get well over 100K on the OEM clutch. Cheers!

[Legion]

My clutch went south around 56k miles. I replaced it last year along with the clutch line and slave cyl. It would slip during high RPM shifts from 2->3.

[jungy4]

If you previously owned manual cars before, think about how long they lasted for you. I would leave it alone if it doesn't slip. Dealers are notorious for "recommending" a lot of things.

[Longwolf]

My clutch went south around 56k miles. I replaced it last year along with the clutch line and slave cyl. It would slip during high RPM shifts from 2->3.

Legion - how much did that clutch job cost you?

[Legion]

Legion - how much did that clutch job cost you?

Its been a while, but I think with the kit and installation it was around $2k total. I wasn't about to drop a transfer case AND a transmission in my garage with jack stands. LOL - when I heard the job is ~10 hours without a lift I opted to let my shop do it. :)

[peterpark0]

Only if you're keeping the car:

I would replace the clutch since everything is out. Find the Sachs Xtend, It's OEM+ (15% more holding power). They're usually around $400-500, cheaper if you want to wait and buy from Germany.
Since your stock, that clutch should last you forever! And just reuse your old flywheel.

I purchased my car at 39k tuned, Clutch went at 52k. Costed about 1300 in labor (I changed all fluids too: Tranny, Rear diff, Sport diff). Even if you pay an extra $200-300 to install the clutch, It's worth it!!
I also replaced my flywheel cause it was toast! Hot spots and it was cracking.

If not:
Screw it, save money!

[SouthernBoy]

If operated properly and not abused, there is no reason a clutch shouldn't last well over 200,000 miles, providing it is a quality product and installed properly.

[hd1]

Got 88k on original clutch. Its been stage 2 for about a year now. I never abuse it from a dig. It slips in 3-6 when RPM's are over about 4k. Much worse when its <40F outside and motor is breathing real good. It can handle 1 and 2 when the RPM's can rise real fast, but struggles when theres a slower RPM rise in higher gear.....especially when it has to deal with more air resistance at speed. Ill probably replace clutch this year or next with the Sachs Xtend bc I love this car and can see myself driving it to 150k+. I do all my own work too. Also, my next car will be electric so I want to enjoy the 6MT supercharged car while we still can.