Audi S4 B8 avant draining the battery, doesn't go into sleep mode. parking brake glow

[S4-Avant]

Hi.
I need help my car is draining the battery out, changed to second battery and coding it in.

I connected to obd delphi computer and it says:

01207 Parking heater control unit - No communication - Permanent
01206 Time signal ignition off - faulty signal - Permanent

Now when i roll down driver window and lock the car and wait for the deadlock to kick in but it don't come i can stil open the door and alarm kicks of.
And when i lock it there are 2 red lights glowing, one on the cluster parking brake and the button for parking brake are glowing. They dissapear after 10 seconds and can hear a tick sound from the cluster and next second a tick sound from the parking brake module located in the trunk on right side.

Just when i don't put the parking brake on while locking it, the deadlock kicks in.

the car have been parked after a engine bay wash in 4 months in garage.

any advice?

i read that someone had their heater module burned and kept the car draining battery.

should i do a full parasitic test?

[jygesq]

How old is your battery?

[Dr GP]

Try driving the car. When the battery gets low, the smart electrical system will disable certain non essential electrical functions. If you battery is over 4 yeas old, you might consider a new battery.Or at least put a battery charger on the car to see if it helps. Also check the wiring harness where it connects to the battery and look to make sure it is intact.I think you may be able to determine the condition of the battery using the obd delphi?

[irish07]

+1 drain test.

Doesn’t matter if you drive the car to try and charge the battery or if you remove the battery and replace. If you have a huge drain, you’ll still have the same issue.

Do a drain test, don’t blow the fuse in your meter, so set to DC amps and not DCmA, make sure to have a jump lead ready in case more than 10amps. I don’t know what spec is supposed to be, but I’d shoot for something under 35mA range (or 0.035 amps).

You should see a drop after 15 mins and at 45 mins I’d expect to have under 20mA


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[S4-Avant]

Hello again. Me and a specialist electrician solved the problem today.

We locked the lock hatch and locked the car to go to sleep, we then connected a volt/multimeter hook to the battery and saw a big drain and we found volt leak in some fuse so we had to pull out the fuse for Electrical stability program and the fuse for instrument cluster and the parking brake module (8K0907801H) , Right then the battery drain went away all down to zero. We tought that the instrument cluster was the problem but it was no problem with it.

So that didn't solve the problem, we had only stopped the temporary drain problem. so we connected the 2 fuses and brake module back and the car started to drain battery again.

so i figured out by coincidence that .. wait a minute I got the wrong code for ¨01207 Parking heater control unit - No communication - Permanent¨ , So i measured the fuses for auxiliary heater and it didn't show any volt leak, i still keeps measuring and every 15 seconds i could read a smal drain in the fuse. So i started to pull out the Fuse for Auxiliary heater. and the battery drain went right away!!

So everyone that is having problem with battery drain, first read out with random obd reader the wrong codes in the car, then hook a volt ampere meter to battery, then pull out the fuse from the car that is throwing up the wrong code, that will shut down the rest of control modules that don't sleep