2018 Q7 3.0T brake job

[Charles.waite]

I do have a decent amount of experience with DIY repairs and I have worked on many different cars ranging from various brands and models. It's safe to say that replacing front rotors and pads on the 4M Q7 was possibly the easiest brake job ever.

If you have basic wrenching knowledge and have done brakes before or mechanically inclined its a really simple job. Additionally, if you feel apprehensive and haven't done many DIYs, I would say leave it to a professional since they are a major safety component.

If attempting the front brakes yourself, feel free to ask questions. I haven't done the rears yet but glimpsed the design and they seem very similar to my previous B8 S4 and C7.5 A6.

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Oh I’ve done plenty of brake jobs and brake upgrades (b6A4->S4 calipers, currently b7a4-> Macan Brembos), and far more involved stuff like timing chains and cam replacement.

My only real hang ups are never having worked on a fixed caliper brake and, frankly, I don’t want to be a bonehead and screw up the brakes because there sorta important. I’m sure, as you said, it’s quite a simple job.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Oh I’ve done plenty of brake jobs and brake upgrades (b6A4->S4 calipers, currently b7a4-> Macan Brembos), and far more involved stuff like timing chains and cam replacement.

My only real hang ups are never having worked on a fixed caliper brake and, frankly, I don’t want to be a bonehead and screw up the brakes because there sorta important. I’m sure, as you said, it’s quite a simple job.

I think you are more than qualified to work on the Q's brakes... it takes longer to lift the truck, support it and remove the wheels than to do the actual brake job.

I believe the Macan S Brembos are a 4 piston fixed caliper which is very similar to the Akebono 6 piston on the Q. Only real difference is 1 extra piston per inner and outer of the caliper. Also, the Q front caliper does not have provisions for quick pad changes as a brembo caliper would with the slide pins and cotter pins.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

I hope that this post finds everyone well. I have ordered new OEM pads for the front and rear. Additionally, i ordered new retaining clips for the front caliper. I also purchased a 60 grit orbital disc for my hand held grinder to lightly recondition the front rotors and remove any possible brake pad deposits.

I plan on performing the install either next weekend or the following weekend.

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Finally got around to doing the rear brakes today. I did not take photos of the process since the brake job went similarly (as far as I remember the brake jobs are identical) to the C7.5 A6 and B8 S4 rear brake jobs. I did take photos of the Centric rear rotors versus the OEM rear rotors. Additionally, the Centric brake pad wear sensors fit perfectly. I have not test driven the Q as yet because I'm re-doing the fronts tomorrow with the OEM pads. My plan is to hit both sides of the rotor faces with a light cleanoff via 60 grit grinding disc. This process it to remove any possibility of the Centric semi metallic pads that could have transferred onto the rotor surfaces.

Differences that I noticed between the Centric versus OEM rear rotors is that the OEM looks to have more ventilation slats so it may cool better.

After replacing the front pads tomorrow my Q will have Centric rotors and brake pad wear sensors, but, OEM pads at all 4 corners. Attachment 19869620200926_183253.jpg20200926_183326.jpg

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

Redid the fronts today and hopefully its the last time until the pads wear down. I drove it for about an hour and everything is silent, **knocks on wood**.

I noticed the new brake hardware had a small design change. I snapped a photo of the old and new hardware along with photos of the sanded rotor surfaces and new spring clips. Take care all and I wish everyone a safe week.20200927_123712_04.jpg20200927_124658.jpg20200927_125058.jpg20200927_130612.jpg20200927_131901.jpg20200927_142201.jpg20200927_140747.jpg

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[renntorq]

Hi, I will be doing this job this weekend. Does anyone have the torque spec for the 21mm bolts holding the caliper to the knuckle?

Thanks,

John

[renntorq]

For reference when I took the calipers off it took about 98-100 lb-ft to remove so I used a similar number putting them back on...

Hi, I will be doing this job this weekend. Does anyone have the torque spec for the 21mm bolts holding the caliper to the knuckle?

Thanks,

John

[gdawg'05a4]

From the workshop guide, caliper bolts (#11) are 196 Nm (144 lb-ft):

4M Q7 Front Brake Caliper Bolt Spec.png

[Charles.waite]

To think that’s what those bolts were on my b7 and I believe it’s also a similar sized bolt. I had to use a floor jack with my breaker bar to get them, 144ftlbs is no joke.

Also, your brakes falling off the axle would present a problem so it’s good to really get it cranked down properly. And use blue locktite as that’s also what the factory manual states.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hello all,

Redid the fronts today and hopefully its the last time until the pads wear down. I drove it for about an hour and everything is silent, **knocks on wood**.

I noticed the new brake hardware had a small design change. I snapped a photo of the old and new hardware along with photos of the sanded rotor surfaces and new spring clips. Take care all and I wish everyone a safe week.20200927_123712_04.jpg20200927_124658.jpg20200927_125058.jpg20200927_130612.jpg20200927_131901.jpg20200927_142201.jpg20200927_140747.jpg

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** Thanks so much OP for the posts, and updated feedback. I just ordered a front end kit for my wife's 2017 Q7 from FCP with all stock gear and life-time warranty... It was about $900 but, ill never pay again!

They're 375mm up front just like yours. The rears seem "ok". And, I'll replace pads ONLY before winter sets in. Anyway, I wrestle with this car and my A6 every time I lift them to clean / grease brakes and/or change from winter to summer gear, etc.....

How did you get the Q in the air and supported SAFELY. I'm thinking of a couple options.

(1) first, I can raise it insanely high in the rear and set it on my rubber padded stand(s) at the jack-point up front,
(2) next, I could try to raise the Q under the control arm with a block of wood on the jack pad so as not to scrape-up the control arm, and then set the car on the jack point with a known good stand with rubber pad and hockey-puck like insert with semi-rounded top for Audis,
(3) finally, I could raise the SUV at jack point, do the brake job and hope not to be crushed.
CLEARLY, this later option is stupid. But I see it done in shops all the time. Trusting my limbs - or life - to a 15 year-old 2 ton jack seems like a bad idea unless I want my kids to win the insurance bet.....

Thanks for your thoughts!

By the way, I cannot count the number of times I've done brakes on BMW or Honda, but they typically have a central jack point in both front and rear, where I can lift the whole front or back and support both side separately with two stands at proper support points, and then set two additional stands under what would be a "rail" along the sides and then leave the jack locked 2mm under the initial lift point. Basically, I'd have 2 points of failure in those cases and have torn suspensions completely apart. NEVER once felt unsafe that way under any of those cars. The Audi's, however, are confounding!

I'd appreciate any thoughts you have. Don't want to be crushed saving $1K in labor.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello JWebb,

I hope that all is well. I actually do the front set or the rear set first because I use these "safejacks" and I only have two of them. Also, I have two of the R8 adapter pieces. I'll link you to what I use below. Fyi, I used these with my previous C7.5 A6 too. Good luck and reach out if you have any other questions.

https://safejacks.com/collections/co...ck-single-unit

https://youtu.be/YrZJhIn-96w

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hello JWebb,

I hope that all is well. I actually do the front set or the rear set first because I use these "safejacks" and I only have two of them. Also, I have two of the R8 adapter pieces. I'll link you to what I use below. Fyi, I used these with my previous C7.5 A6 too. Good luck and reach out if you have any other questions.

https://safejacks.com/collections/co...ck-single-unit

https://youtu.be/YrZJhIn-96w

Thanks so much for the response. I ran across these and am glad to see they can work the issue. That said, When I looked this weekend, they were back ordered.

I may support one corset at a time with two stands but need a taller Jack to get the whole side high enough to make it work. Found a decent option at menards, one at Napa and one at JD.

These safe jacks will be on my future list when available

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

You're welcome Jwebb. Quick thing about the safejacks. Since I got them in 2018 they were always listed as backordered. I think when you are ready to buy its

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Sorry about that last post. I posted by mistake before completing the entry.

I would order the safejacks as soon as you are ready because I have never seen them listed as "in stock" since I ordered my pair of stands in 2018.

Fyi, I came across another post where a member used the B9 RS5 380mm front rotors on their 4M Q7. I was thinking when the time comes for replacing front rotors again I'll try to source the rotors in the link below from FCPEuro.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2019-Au...-127632-2357-0

[Q7Audi17]

Hi All,

What is the OEM part number for the front pads? When I look it up it comes up as 4M0698151BD but the service advisor in Chicago at Fletcher Jones said it is 4M0698151BJ. If anyone knows anything about this that would be great.

2017 Audi Q7 3.0


Thanks!

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

I think the difference between the part numbers which you posted versus the service advisor's is that there is no difference and its same part, however, the "D" and the "J" signifies that the "J" is a more current revision, re-engineered part. Because I know with things like front grilles, trim pieces, etc. usually signifies the finish and/or color with the last letter or letters.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[Q7Audi17]

I think the difference between the part numbers which you posted versus the service advisor's is that there is no difference and its same part, however, the "D" and the "J" signifies that the "J" is a more current revision, re-engineered part. Because I know with things like front grilles, trim pieces, etc. usually signifies the finish and/or color with the last letter or letters.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Gotcha!

[Charles.waite]

Usually that’s the case. Not 100% if the time but like 99% of it.

[Q7Audi17]

Usually that’s the case. Not 100% if the time but like 99% of it.

Thanks!

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hi All,

What is the OEM part number for the front pads? When I look it up it comes up as 4M0698151BD but the service advisor in Chicago at Fletcher Jones said it is 4M0698151BJ. If anyone knows anything about this that would be great.

2017 Audi Q7 3.0


Thanks!

Hey everyone. I’m attaching a picture here. It shows the part # from FCP. I just finished this job last night. The parts fit perfectly and appear physically identical to those I removed. That said. It’s possible the Akebono compound formula has changed somewhat?

In any event, that which I purchased from FCP fit perfectly, the car is silent when backing up, driving and braking.

Thanks again to OP for original posting and details. I want to add/emphasize a couple points.

1. 21 MM caliper bolts are very difficult to break loose; consider turning wheel to get access and a longer bar.

2. Because you’ll be using so much force, the car may move slightly on your stands, please, please use caution, an extra pair of stands for extra safety and block your rear wheels at front and back.

3. If doing Rotors too, I’d suggested ordering at least one spare set screw. My wife's Q is a 2017 and the set screw is a T30. They strip easily. I didn't have spares, but got lucky this time!

4. As OP mentioned, it seems nearly impossible to save the pad wear sensors.. just buy new ones and have them ready. If you get lucky and manage to save one you can return it. I did not use Audi specific sensors. I think the ones I used are made by Bowa. Anyway, they’re about $18-$20 if I recall correctly. I’ve always used generics and never once had a problem. Paying for Audi specific sensors is not needed.

Image1630858985.142707.jpg


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[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hey everyone. I’m attaching a picture here. It shows the part # from FCP. I just finished this job last night. The parts fit perfectly and appear physically identical to those I removed. That said. It’s possible the Akebono compound formula has changed somewhat?

In any event, that which I purchased from FCP fit perfectly, the car is silent when backing up, driving and braking.

Thanks again to OP for original posting and details. I want to add/emphasize a couple points.

1. 21 MM caliper bolts are very difficult to break loose; consider turning wheel to get access and a longer bar.

2. Because you’ll be using so much force, the car may move slightly on your stands, please, please use caution, an extra pair of stands for extra safety and block your rear wheels at front and back.

3. If doing Rotors too, I’d suggested ordering at least one spare set screw. My wife's Q is a 2017 and the set screw is a T30. They strip easily. I didn't have spares, but got lucky this time!

4. As OP mentioned, it seems nearly impossible to save the pad wear sensors.. just buy new ones and have them ready. If you get lucky and manage to save one you can return it. I did not use Audi specific sensors. I think the ones I used are made by Bowa. Anyway, they’re about $18-$20 if I recall correctly. I’ve always used generics and never once had a problem. Paying for Audi specific sensors is not needed.

Image1630858985.142707.jpg


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Image1630860740.751327.jpgImage1630860755.525857.jpg

Before and after



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[Charles.waite]

Jealous of your garage setup!

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Jealous of your garage setup!

Thanks bro! I'm almost too old to enjoy completely, but I do what I can when kids, work and my back allow me to.

I simply can’t stand paying dealer prices for work I’d double check as a former racer.

The gear I put into the front of my wife’s Q is top notch and I don’t worry about her - or my teenagers - in that SUV.




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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Beautiful garage Jwebb! Those rotors looks sharp too! For my next brake job I'll definitely be getting rotors from FCP. Which Michelin's are you running on your Q?

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Did some maintenance yesterday. Oil change, brake fluid flush and tire rotation.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Beautiful garage Jwebb! Those rotors looks sharp too! For my next brake job I'll definitely be getting rotors from FCP. Which Michelin's are you running on your Q?

They’re pilot sport All Season. We have dedicated winters as we use her car up in Michigan and hit some really deep stuff once and a while - plus I like wheels and tires.

So, I don’t know how they do on snow, but they are simply fantastic on dry and wet pavement.


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[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Did some maintenance yesterday. Oil change, brake fluid flush and tire rotation.

Ha! I just did all of that on my A6 plus plugs and filters. How does the Motul hold up for you? I tried a few oils on my A6 and had samples tested. Castrol, LiquiMoly and Pennzoil all did fine at 4,5 and 6k, respectively. Since A6 had been tuned very early in its life, I’ve been overly conservative with oil.

That said, I found the Pennzoil doesn’t burn off like the others did. When it’s discounted 40% percent at Napa I send in and order online and pick it up. It’s funny, the guys at the count comment that me and the Mopar guys come running for those sales!


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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hey JWebb,

Thank you for the input with the tires. I currently have some Toyo all seasons but they are starting to sound a bit louder. I have about 12k miles on them. I am considering these "new to me" Vredestein Quatrac Pro All Weather tires for my future replacement.

My wife's winter wheels for her S3 has Michelin AS4s. I junked her Blizzacks WS80s because they were super noisy and seemed very questionable in the rain.

As for the oil, its the first time running it and I've never done a UOA. I usually run Castrol 0w40 A3/B4 and before this recent oil change I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, however, I was experiencing timing chain tensioner rattle on cold starts with the M1. It only stayed in about 1k and I gave the Motul Gen 2 a try. Timing chain rattle is now gone on cold start. I too am super conservative about oil, as oil usually doesn't stay in for more than 4k miles before I change it out again.

As for the Pennzoil that you like, this is the version labeled "Ultra" and not "Ultra Platinum"? I heard that ultra stuff is really good and the VOAs on BITOG show some promising data including some good "Moly" content. Thats a crazy good deal with the 40% off sales.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Hello all,

I hope this post finds you all well.

I've been doing some digging between yesterday and today and it seems like the 380mmx36mm rotor from the B8.5 SQ5's optional 380mm brake upgrade and the D4 A8 4.0T should fit the front of the Q7 with the OEM 6-piston Akebono caliper.

I came across some threads of guys using the 380mmx36mm rotor with the 4M Q7 calipers on the B8.5 S4s and S5s.

The differences I noticed were that the rotor hats on the 380mm were a bit larger versus the OEM 375mm rotor hats and, of course, the 5mm overall diameter which would equate to being 2.5mm closer to the caliper when applying the differences in the radius.

When I decide to do brakes again I am thinking to get a set of 380mm cross-drilled front rotors from an aftermarket company and see if everything fits as expected.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Hey JWebb,

Thank you for the input with the tires. I currently have some Toyo all seasons but they are starting to sound a bit louder. I have about 12k miles on them. I am considering these "new to me" Vredestein Quatrac Pro All Weather tires for my future replacement.

My wife's winter wheels for her S3 has Michelin AS4s. I junked her Blizzacks WS80s because they were super noisy and seemed very questionable in the rain.

As for the oil, its the first time running it and I've never done a UOA. I usually run Castrol 0w40 A3/B4 and before this recent oil change I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, however, I was experiencing timing chain tensioner rattle on cold starts with the M1. It only stayed in about 1k and I gave the Motul Gen 2 a try. Timing chain rattle is now gone on cold start. I too am super conservative about oil, as oil usually doesn't stay in for more than 4k miles before I change it out again.

As for the Pennzoil that you like, this is the version labeled "Ultra" and not "Ultra Platinum"? I heard that ultra stuff is really good and the VOAs on BITOG show some promising data including some good "Moly" content. Thats a crazy good deal with the 40% off sales.

The label has changed recently and it reads “Platinum Euro”. It specifies Mercedes, Porsche, Audi and VW. I don’t believe it’s BMW LL01.

My last UOA is posted somewhere, but Blackstone said it was fine and to try 7.5k next time. I just added make-up oil to my wife’s Q, which is running either Castrol or Mobile from dealer.

I’m swapping that to Pennzoil unless I find something better.


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[mageus]

Plan to do The Boss's fronts. Couple questions:

- Can you reuse the caliper bolts?

- Only one person mentioned trouble getting the caliper bolts off. I have a 2' breaker bar; good enough? Can you torque it to 144 lb-ft without the car on a lift?

- Is everyone using thread-lok on the caliper bolts?


TIA.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Plan to do The Boss's fronts. Couple questions:

- Can you reuse the caliper bolts?

- Only one person mentioned trouble getting the caliper bolts off. I have a 2' breaker bar; good enough? Can you torque it to 144 lb-ft without the car on a lift?

- Is everyone using thread-lok on the caliper bolts?


TIA.

Turn wheel to get to caliper bolts and use PB blaster or similar and you should be fine. I was able to get 144LB and used thread lock per my understanding of manual. No life used!

Manual does not state bolts t be replaced and I had no problem with their condition!


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[SQ57]

Just did a F/R full replacement. Zimmerman rotors, Ferante pads.
Great success!

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[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Just did a F/R full replacement. Zimmerman rotors, Ferante pads.
Great success!

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Nice! The Zimmermans look to be zinc coated? Do you mind sharing the part numbers? How are you liking the Ferante pads?

I'm a little bit upset as it's starting to cool down in the northeast and my brakes are starting the loud squeal on the first brake application after sitting overnight. I re-fitted with OEM pads on my brake job so I have no one to blame but myself.

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[SQ57]

I'm not sure what the part #s are, but these were the only Zimmerman that popped when we looked up options. But i tell you a secret, MSRP prices are soooo inflated as to what mechanics pay for the parts. Almost double!!!
Normally they say to don't go hard on the brakes for about 100 miles , so i did not pushed yo limits , but so far like them. Tgey are zinc coated,and pads are not ceramic, so hopefully no squealing!

So love the setup. Could have gone the cheap route(OEM rear rotors list at $79, MSRP$180), but wanted someting better. I'm tuned and leadfooted.

Wow! Just reminded myself squealing is gone!!!
Was realy bad with OEM rotors/pads...(which served me otherwise well for some 30kSmiles).

Chirboiz,

Bob


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[tcm glx]

Awesome insight on the brake job. I’m getting ready to do mine as well, what’s the latest on best place to grab a set of rotors and pads? FCP Euro, ECS?

[mageus]

I just did the front pads with the brake flush. Rotors were fine so I let those be.

OEM pads were $140 shipped from Bernardi.

- Based on how easy it was to unscrew them, the caliper bolts felt like they had been torqued to <100 lbft.
- There was no thread lock residue on the bolts.

I didn't have a pipe that would fit over the end nut on my torque wrench, so I torqued to 120 (when my back gave out), and used a breaker bar to crank it a little tighter. I used blue lok-tite. Figure it should hold.
I only broke one of the wear sensors. It hadn't worn through yet, so I just zip-tied it out of the way.
It's an easy job if you have enough leverage on your torque wrench.


Thanx for all of the tips in this thread.

[tcm glx]

Anyone..anyone? Good places to buy the parts?

[Charles.waite]

Can’t speak to the Q7 specifically, but I’ve always had good luck buying Centric brand rotors on amazon and eBay. And akebono pads on Amazon.

Sometimes FCP, Europa, or ECS has good pricing though so I always check those out just in case.

[cW6mT mKviGLi]

Anyone..anyone? Good places to buy the parts?

If you plan on keeping the Q for awhile I would recommend FCP because lifetime replacement warranty. My only regret with sticking to OEM is that first squeal you get when the weather starts getting cold. Otherwise, cant beat lifetime replacement with the most out of pocket being your return shipping to them.

If you are looking for a cheap, usually good quality aftermarket brake rotor....
https://www.carid.com/fremax/vented-...pn-bd3649.html

I've heard positive feedback about Fremax products. Other than Fremax there is Centric too.

Good luck

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