No start/Cam sensor issue

[Nirvana09]

Hey hey guys,

Trying to tackle another problem on my 2002 A4 quattro 1.8t. After finding and fixing a great handful of problems with this car, another problem has arose that has put me in a pickle. After taking my car on decent drive, about 100 miles or so, and parking it for a few hours, it seems to have lost spark and will no longer start. I started by pulling the fuel line and injectors to verify I was getting fuel, which I was. After running a vagcom test, I had a couple of codes that were never found before.

16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too high P0328 - 001 - Upper limit exceeded - Intermittent
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (intake): Retarded Setpoint not reached (Over-advanced) P0011 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal Too High P0343 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded

So with this information at hand, I found some information saying that it could be a Cam position sensor gone bad. Since I have a complete head sitting in the garage, I pulled the sensor from that head and installed it on mine to no change. I pulled the valve cover to check the condition of the cam adjuster feet to find both were complete and doing their job properly. Doing more research, I found that the crank position sensor might be the cause of the no-spark and replaced it with a used one from a passat 1.8t I had laying around. No change at all. Is there any information these codes might be telling me that I am missing? I am currently looking at the injector wiring harness as some of that wiring have small cracks and I figure the cam sensor wiring might be grounding on some of those, but have only found damage on the injector wiring and not the cam sensor wiring. After checking voltage at the three cam sensor wires I am getting zero on the ground, 4.98v on the next wire and 10.3v on the last green wire. Could the ECU be at fault for the lower voltage on the last wire or am I in the right direction looking for a short? Even with the cracks, all of the injectors fire properly and very strong.

I turned the key on and was checking power to the coil pack wires. I do get 12v on each connector end but when I try to ground out a spark plug to check spark I get nothing. I swapped out the coilpacks to no change. Are the fuse terminals that run the ECU powered with the key? I haven't checked power to the fuses that control engine management yet. What is the voltage I should expect from these?

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 0016701
Shop #: WSC 63251
3 Faults Found:
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High
P0343 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
19537 - Engine Temperature too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
Readiness: 0110 1101

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 614 517 H
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 2328
Coding: 04275
Shop #: WSC 06435
1 Fault Found:
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85): Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 820 043 L
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1016
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63251
6 Faults Found:
00727 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Defrost Flap (G135)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition: OFF
27-00 - Implausible Signal

Address 09 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 907 279 E
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0305
Coding: 00013
Shop #: WSC 63251
1 Fault Found:
01326 - Control Module for Multi-Function Steering Wheel (J453)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 16 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 953 549 L
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 00041
Shop #: WSC 63251
2 Faults Found:
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 920 950 L
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
Coding: 03200
Shop #: WSC 00223
WAULC68E53A111162 AUZ6Z0B0197969
1 Fault Found:
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 45 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw. 0604
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1311
Coding: 11788
Shop #: WSC 63251
4 Faults Found:
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

Address 55 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D07
Coding: 00060
Shop #: WSC 63251
2 Faults Found:
01535 - Control Circuit for Right Headlight Range Adjusting Motor (V49)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
00774 - Level Control System Sensor: Left Rear (G76)
28-10 - Short to B+ - Intermittent

Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 035 195 F
Component: symphony II NP2 0051
Coding: 01201
Shop #: WSC 08376
No fault code found.

End -------------------------------------------------------


The power and immobilizer codes are still around from some key issues I had a month or so ago, same with the power (unplugging battery while the car sits). Is there anything else here that would clue somebody in? Should I invest in another set of Crank and Cam sensors in case the two each I have are bad?

Maybe this will give somebody some ideas - back on December 10th (When this actually happened) these were the first engine codes given, after clearing them, none have returned, (only the P0343 Cam signal too high comes back)


Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 0016701
Shop #: WSC 63251
5 Faults Found:
17698 - Coolant Temp Sensor at Radiator Outlet (G83): Signal too Small
P1290 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High
P0328 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High
P0343 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
19537 - Engine Temperature too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
Readiness: 0000 1100

Again, the car ran great for a nice long drive, it was only upon trying to start it hours later is when it didn't want to start. Any direction you guys might point me? I've been fighting this for over a month now, with a lot of things tried and no change what-so-ever.

WP_20191012_08_34_43_Pro.jpg

[Protection]

How sure are you that the crank position sensor from the Passat is good? The best way to test the signal is back probed w/ a scope—but not very common in the DIY world. When you crank the engine, does the tach needle move? This sensor would be my best guess as to what is wrong. Sometimes the sensors do not fail all at once.

I believe the car will start, even if the cam position sensor is bad, but may take several tries. The voltages you listed on the three wires of the cam sensor don’t appear right. there should only be 5v on the white/black wire (5v reference) and 0v on the sensor ground [black wire], and 0v to 5v on the signal wire to ECM [green/grey].

Also you have a code in that printout for a bad coolant temp sensor (CTS). If you haven’t already installed a new one, do so now. The ECU uses engine temp to determine how much fuel to inject upon engine start.


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[Nirvana09]

How sure are you that the crank position sensor from the Passat is good? The best way to test the signal is back probed w/ a scope—but not very common in the DIY world. When you crank the engine, does the tach needle move? This sensor would be my best guess as to what is wrong. Sometimes the sensors do not fail all at once.

Yes, the rpms run up to about 200 or so - it does move. Does that verify that the cam sensor is working? Does that point towards the crank sensor? As far as the crank and cam sensors go, they're both used. I have no idea if they're good or not, but have easy access to a wrecking yard a good friend owns, I grabbed both from a 2004 Passat that was very nice, but was vandalized and towed to this yard. For all I know, both mine and the ones I picked are all bad, but would like to know what to check before going out and buying more parts. I just left my job to move to a new one and this happened. So I don't have more checks coming in until I get this running and can actually work at this new job. Used is the best I can do right now.

I believe the car will start, even if the cam position sensor is bad, but may take several tries. The voltages you listed on the three wires of the cam sensor don’t appear right. there should only be 5v on the white/black wire (5v reference) and 0v on the sensor ground [black wire], and 0v to 5v on the signal wire to ECM [green/grey].

See, I thought it was likely since I had some cracked injector wiring that if the cam sensor wires were cracked as well they could interfere with the signal. I just repaired the wiring today and still have no change, although I didn't check what the new voltages were. We're having terrible weather so I quickly got everything together, turned it over and when it didn't work again left for indoors.

Also you have a code in that printout for a bad coolant temp sensor (CTS). If you haven’t already installed a new one, do so now. The ECU uses engine temp to determine how much fuel to inject upon engine start.

Yeah, that code has come and gone a couple of times during maintenance, I will grab one from the yard next time I am down there and see if I can make it go away permanently.

[Nirvana09]

I believe the car will start, even if the cam position sensor is bad, but may take several tries. The voltages you listed on the three wires of the cam sensor don’t appear right. there should only be 5v on the white/black wire (5v reference) and 0v on the sensor ground [black wire], and 0v to 5v on the signal wire to ECM [green/grey].

Okay, just went out in the snow and checked voltages. White/black had 5v, black had 0, and green had 9v. It's quite a bit less than it was before, would this confirm that I have a connection (probably from cracked wiring sheath) from a 12v source in my wiring?

[Protection]

That you have an RPM signal while cranking is indicative of the crank position sensor working. I think we can rule that out as the problem.

Based on the voltage (9v on the cam position sensor signal wire), I would check all your engine sensor grounds—make sure they are intact and clean. If you have a test light, you can check for ground continuity by hooking the light to battery positive and then with the sensor unplugged touching the tip of the light it to the black wire’s terminal on the connector. You can check for continuity with a multimeter, but that won’t put any load on it. Therefore, the ground could be intact, but not sufficient to carry current from the cam sensor.

Unfortunately, the wiring diagrams in the Robert Bentley book do not show a ground distribution chart. They only show that the cam position sensor is grounded to “ground #220” in the engine wiring harness. I would look on the firewall for the grounds bolted to the wall. My B6 1.8 is not here now (wife has it at work), but I believe the grounds for the engine sensors come out of the wiring harness near the firewall and are attached there.



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[old guy]

Check your engine management fuses 29, 32, 34 and 43.

[Nirvana09]

That you have an RPM signal while cranking is indicative of the crank position sensor working. I think we can rule that out as the problem.

Based on the voltage (9v on the cam position sensor signal wire), I would check all your engine sensor grounds—make sure they are intact and clean. If you have a test light, you can check for ground continuity by hooking the light to battery positive and then with the sensor unplugged touching the tip of the light it to the black wire’s terminal on the connector. You can check for continuity with a multimeter, but that won’t put any load on it. Therefore, the ground could be intact, but not sufficient to carry current from the cam sensor.

Unfortunately, the wiring diagrams in the Robert Bentley book do not show a ground distribution chart. They only show that the cam position sensor is grounded to “ground #220” in the engine wiring harness. I would look on the firewall for the grounds bolted to the wall. My B6 1.8 is not here now (wife has it at work), but I believe the grounds for the engine sensors come out of the wiring harness near the firewall and are attached there.

Okay, I checked for continuity from the positive terminal to the black ground and I did get a nice strong light on my test lamp. I wasn't really able to dig deep and check those grounds on the firewall (it's snowing pretty hard right now) but will try to find those when it clears up. If you happen to figure out which exact ground to check and clean, please let me know, I would appreciate it.

Check your engine management fuses 29, 32, 34 and 43.

Okay, so I checked the fuses and they all seem to be in order. With the key on I checked each connection (left and right) in each position and this is what I recorded.

(By the way, I accidentally left the key on last night, the weather drove me back inside and I guess I forgot to turn it off, OOPS. I have the charger on so the readings with power will be a full 15v, from the charger)

Fuse 29 - 15v for the left and 3v on the right
Fuse 32 - 0v left, 3v right
Fuse 34 - 0v left, 3v right
Fuse 43 - 0v left, 15v right

Again, this is just with the key on. I'm not sure if these get power once you start turning it over but maybe these readings will bring us closer to resolution.

Let me know anything else you want me to check.

[Nirvana09]

Holy moly guys, after cleaning some grounds and putting it all back together, I decided to give it a fresh scan. There are quite a few more codes this time around! For the last month, I've only tried to turn it over and fix things, so I'm not sure why MORE codes are popping up. But this might lead me to believe that the ECU might be at fault? Has anybody seen anything like this before?


Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 0016701
Shop #: WSC 63251
7 Faults Found:
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High
P0343 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
19537 - Engine Temperature too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
18017 - Crash Shut-Down Activated
P1609 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: (J271): Open
P0688 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
18047 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal
P1639 - 008 - Implausible Signal
16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High
P0238 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 614 517 H
Component: ABS/ESP allrad 2328
Coding: 04275
Shop #: WSC 06435
4 Faults Found:
01200 - ABS Valves Supply Voltage
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01826 - Sensor for Steering Angle (G85): Supply Voltage Terminal 30
35-00 - -
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU
P1850 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
79-00 - Please Check Fault Codes

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 820 043 L
Component: A4 Klimaautomat 1016
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 63251
6 Faults Found:
00727 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Defrost Flap (G135)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
00716 - Air recirculation Flap Positioning Motor (V113)
41-00 - Blocked or No Voltage
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65)
07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition: OFF
27-00 - Implausible Signal

Address 09 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 907 279 E
Component: int. Lastmodul USA 0305
Coding: 00013
Shop #: WSC 63251
2 Faults Found:
01326 - Control Module for Multi-Function Steering Wheel (J453)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

Skipping Address 15-Airbags

Address 16 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 953 549 L
Component: Lenksáulenmodul 0308
Coding: 00041
Shop #: WSC 63251
3 Faults Found:
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 920 950 L
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
Coding: 03200
Shop #: WSC 00223
WAULC68E53A111162 AUZ6Z0B0197969
2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications

Address 45 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw. 0604
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1311
Coding: 11788
Shop #: WSC 63251
7 Faults Found:
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
49-00 - No Communications
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module: Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module: Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module: Rear Right (J398)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

Address 55 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D07
Coding: 00060
Shop #: WSC 63251
3 Faults Found:
01535 - Control Circuit for Right Headlight Range Adjusting Motor (V49)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
00774 - Level Control System Sensor: Left Rear (G76)
28-10 - Short to B+ - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal to Low - Intermittent

Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 035 195 F
Component: symphony II NP2 0051
Coding: 01201
Shop #: WSC 08376
No fault code found.

End -------------------------------------------------------

Actually, I guess this makes sense, I was pulling some fuses and testing those ports, are these explained by the pulled fuses are a deeper problem therein?

[Nirvana09]

I hate to spam my own threads but YES, those codes were due to the pulled fuses and went away after I cleared them. The only engine code that comes back is 00343 Cam sensor signal too high.

[Protection]

So there are essentially 3 scenarios for that code: 1) bad cam position sensor 2) faulty wiring to the sensor 3) engine is out of time.

I think we can tentatively rule out #3 since car was running fine and presumable sounds normal when cranking.

The only way I found to test the cam sensor without a scope, is to back probe the signal wire and set your multimeter to hertz. Put the black lead on a known good ground (battery negative) and the positive lead to the back probe of the signal wire. When cranking the engine, you should see around 28Hz. If this checks out, you are going after #2.

Although your voltage checks of the wiring harness to the sensor appear to check out, without load testing the wiring you can’t be certain they are capable of carrying adequate currant. The only way you can do this safely, since the leads go back to the ECU, is with a test light—even a cheap autozone/Walmart/HorrorFreight will work fine as long as it is NOT an LED light.


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[Nirvana09]

So there are essentially 3 scenarios for that code: 1) bad cam position sensor 2) faulty wiring to the sensor 3) engine is out of time.

I think we can tentatively rule out #3 since car was running fine and presumable sounds normal when cranking.

The only way I found to test the cam sensor without a scope, is to back probe the signal wire and set your multimeter to hertz. Put the black lead on a known good ground (battery negative) and the positive lead to the back probe of the signal wire. When cranking the engine, you should see around 28Hz. If this checks out, you are going after #2.

Although your voltage checks of the wiring harness to the sensor appear to check out, without load testing the wiring you can’t be certain they are capable of carrying adequate currant. The only way you can do this safely, since the leads go back to the ECU, is with a test light—even a cheap autozone/Walmart/HorrorFreight will work fine as long as it is NOT an LED light.

Okay, did some tests. With my test lamp hooked up to the negative battery terminal, I couldn't get either the white or green to activate the test lamp. The green measured a little over 10v, the white was 5v when tested on my multimeter. I again hooked the test lamp to the positive and the black wire DID activate the lamp. During the day I also cleaned the negative ground, and one cable I found running to the firewall for a ground.

Now when running my multimeter to the black cable (which only has a 20k Hz setting) and cranking the car over, the display reads (within about a second) .98 to .35 to .21 to .11 and then reads 0.05 and bounces between that and 0.07 until I finally stopped cranking. So quickly spikes and then settles at that .05-.07 range. Is it suppose be a constant reading or is this normal?

[Nirvana09]

So might the problem be explained by a bent crank dowel pin like THIS guy experienced? Although it only showed up once, I did get a p0011 code when this first happened, but have never had it since, only the p0343. Could this be a mechanical issue and not an electrical one?

[Nirvana09]

Oh wowzers guys,

I pulled the timing belt cover on the head and set up my camera to watch what happens as I turn it over. NO BELT OR CAM GEAR MOVEMENT.

I'm not sure where the problem is without checking under the car, but my crank gear or part of the belt teeth might have sheared off!

I've also confirmed that the alternator belt and serpentine ARE spinning, so it looks like the problem is 100% somewhere with the crank gear or belt at that point. Does that mean a couple of those valves might have been slapped by a piston or two? I don't remember hearing anything like that happening, but I guess it only takes one punch of the starter to do the damage.

[Nirvana09]

WP_20200114_16_19_30_Pro.jpg

Well guys, certainly found the problem. All of my idlers gears and water pump were movable by hand, so I don't think something seized up and caused the belt to not move and caused the crank gear to chew it up (The head I obviously couldn't move by hand, but I can get a wrench on it and move it slightly). I think the belt just failed. Once I turn the belt inside out and pinch it, I see space devolping between pretty much all of the teeth on the belt. I guess it was just its time! Don't buy Mexican made contitech belts! This once was installed by absolute german in seattle just a little over 20k miles ago, when the car got a new head. Watch out I guess guys.

[Protection]

Sorry to hear it was the timing. That sucks. I have installed several Continental timing belts in both 1.8t, 3.0, and 2.7t audis and have never head any issues. Two of the cars have over 30k miles since install. I thought the Continental belts were made in Germany.


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[Nirvana09]

Sorry to hear it was the timing. That sucks. I have installed several Continental timing belts in both 1.8t, 3.0, and 2.7t audis and have never head any issues. Two of the cars have over 30k miles since install. I thought the Continental belts were made in Germany.

I'm not too heartbroken about it, I've had a good 1.8t head sitting on the shelf for a couple of months in case something bad happens. I feel relieved I found the problem, but it kills me to know if I had a second hand, I would have found this problem probably the very first day. Unfortunately, I have a problem seeing the front of the motor while turning the engine over from inside the car! I'm hoping for the best about my piston condition, but wont know how they look until my special audi head tool arrives. I hate waiting!

Thanks for you help by the way, I've been looking back through all sorts of posts trying to figure out what it could be and I've seen you and Oldman helping people back in 2013 and earlier, you guys are saints.

[Nirvana09]

Okay guys another update.

Got everything I needed for the head swap and belt change, got it all done yesterday night and wrapped up. Got some fluids in it and ran it for about a half an hour. Seemed OKAY but I am getting a couple of codes.

Boost Pressure Regulation valve (N75): Open Circuit P1548 - No signal/Communication
Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Open Circuit P1287 - No Signal/Communication
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incorrect Correlation P1340 - Lower Limit Exceeded

I chalked up the sensors to either not being fully seated or dirty so I have cleaned both with electrical cleaner and re-seated both making sure they're connected. I figured the last code was due to being a tooth off installing the timing belt but after taking the front off again and checking, it doesn't seem to be the case. Lining up the crank mark, the cam shaft mark, while not being EXACTLY on the mark on the cam cover, is as close as it could be. If I move the mark another tooth forward, it would be farther away than it currently is. What might have been done wrong? I was able to drive the car yesterday night, and while not as smooth as I remember, it seemed OKAY. It seemed a little more rough than I remember, but it has been sitting for a month and a half too. What do these codes indicate to you guys?

This is with the crank timing set EXACTLY. Moving another tooth forward would put the mark a lot further away than it should be, is this set right and I should worry about the other codes being thrown? This seems more like a half of a tooth off, and a lot of people seem to have this problem with no consequence or change in performance. The car revved fine, it just seemed a tiny bit more jittery than I remember.
WP_20200124_10_26_38_Pro.jpg

[Nirvana09]

Another small update.

I went ahead and moved the camshaft up a tooth. It lines up great now. After getting everything back together the car wont start now. After cleaning the N75 valve and what actually ended up being my EVAP purge valve (thought it was the n249 valve), I've got the N75 valve to go away but the N249 code is still there obviously.

So currently I have a car that wont start and an open circuit N249 code.

I'm getting fuel.

[Nirvana09]

I'm about fucking done here.

I think there is a little more going on than I would like to admit.

I think there might be a problem with the head I just installed. After re-aligning the cam and trying to start it, it would just turn over incessantly. I couldn't get it to start. I charged up the battery (this car CHEWS through batteries per the previous owner) and after shutting the key off and on over and over priming the engine, I finally got the thing to start. It will rev very nice but will idle rough.

Looking out the back - there is just a pretty good amount of steam coming through. The dip stick is getting covered in water contaminated oil. At first I chalked it up to a little bit of coolant getting in the oil when I pulled the head, there was still fluid up in there got some in the cylinders. I quickly got it soaked up, and put oil in the cylinders to try to make sure it wouldn't cause a problem. There is also a little bit of oil floating in the coolant reservoir. I also figured some oil got in the coolant passageways and that I could soak it up when it floats to the top.

Trying to put it in gear and driving it, it runs with just about NO power. It will constantly try to stall and die. I couldn't even make it out of the driveway. No codes are being thrown after I cleaned the N249 valve. With no codes and a great amount of steam coming from out back I have to assume something is wrong with the head I just installed. I put a new head gasket on and new coolant and oil in the car but with how awful it runs and drives I have to assume something is wrong. This is just par for the course with how my life has been going for the last few years. I'm just getting very tired. I just wanted a fine car to get this new job with and now that isn't going to happen. Does anybody have any input?

[tirefire]

Oh man, what a depressing thread! I did learn some stuff though

[EuroxS4]

Did you use new head bolts?? What did you torque them to?? Compression and leak down test will tell you if you have a issue with the head or head gasket possibly. I would also check and make sure all the pcv hoses are hooked up and nothing under the intake is broken.

[rocket1420]

Did you use new head bolts every time? You don't want to reuse head bolts. They are stretch bolts, and you have to follow a specific torquing procedure. Did you look all of this up and do it exactly as described in service info?

[Nirvana09]

Hey guys, I didn't see anybody posted again and I forgot to update it. The audi is fixed and runs great. Turns out the head has warped between cylinders two and three and when fully warmed up would burn coolant, but not enough to see steam in the exhaust, but enough to make it to where it would never be fully bled.

Compression on two and three were 30 lbs less then 1 and 4.

I took the head to a machine shop, they decked it, and I reinstalled it with complete success.

To the above few posts, yes, new bolts and a head gasket were bought when I first fixed the head due to the timing belt shearing. My torque figures were to 30ft lbs, then 45ft lbs, and then two rounds of 90 degree turns. I hope this thread is a lesson when you cant fully bleed the system and you constantly get air after very short trips.

[Nirvana09]

Oh, I also chalked the lack of power problem I had a few posts up to a torn turbo boot. So it wasn't getting boost and sucking up a ton of air. Replaced that and it idled fine.