Thanks for the hints ericA6, I just went in this weekend and checked again. Since the leak was not clearly from the pump, I ended up taking the IM off again.
This time with a different pressure kit it all worked a lot smoother. For anyone trying to identify a leak in the coolant system I can only recommend to pressurize and then wiggle all the components, because thats what finally revealed what the problem was. It was the O-Ring (WHT006407) for the hard-platic coolant pipe that comes directly out of the WP and is bolted into place in two locations (06H121065D,
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-...-vw-06h121065d). When pressurized, I could wiggle the pipe up and down and see how the coolant would bubble out. This is with a cool engine only. I assume that the engine only leaked when it was cooling down after being properly heated, because the system had pressure and the out pipe would cool down faster than the engine, leaving more room for coolant to pass, especially with the bad O-Ring. I have had no leak since.
But now I am left with two more questions. First, I purchased the REIN replacement WP, which came with a metal clip for the temperature sensor (CTP). After replacing the CTP O-ring, the CTP would wiggle a lot with the original plastic clip. Trying the metal clip the CTP would be firmly in place. Does anyone know if a certain play with the CTP is normal? The was no leak even with pessure, even when moving the sensor, but it sure felt like it shouldn't move as much. Just some reassurance that the Audi clip allows for some play would be good for peace of mind.
And secondly the much bigger issue. When replacing the IM two of the bolt on the lower side seems to have eaten the tread in the block. They would only semi-lock and then click through when turning further. Now the IM goes on firmly with the remaining 7 points and the engine starts without issues and runs without showing a Check Engine Light. I take this as a sign that the gasket is sealing correctly and no over or under O2 is senses by the exhaust system. However, I would still like to make the bolts work again. Does anyone have experience with fitting a heli-coil (
https://www.ezlok.com/ezcoil-kit-SK40610) into the block? This is currently the only thing I can think of that would repair the broken tread in the block... Or would you dismiss this issue until it becomes apparent that air is entering/exiting through the IM-gasket?
Thank in advance for the help!
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