How much will it cost to fix oil burning?

[Tba5]

My 2010 A4 is burning a quart every 3000 miles. It's not bad yet, but I know it will get worse over the next few years. I want to plan for it.

How much will it cost to fix it?

I love the car and want to keep it as long as I can. It only has 62,000 miles.

Thanks.

[JS4Avant]

I just spent 6641.00 for rebuild


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[A4x]

Junkyard engine from LKQ is probably the way to go. $3000-4000 for engine and another $1000-2000 for install. Just a guess.

[FR_A4]

Local dealer charged the previous owner of my 2011 $3700 for a piston and chain replacement, he only had to pay half of it.

[NYDCB]

Dealing with it until I can afford to upgrade to an RS6 Avant. Cost to resolve is pretty much the value of the car, give or take. Makes no sense financially (much like an RS6 Avant).

[OnyxCobra]

3000 miles per quart is pretty much nothing for these engines, but the route I'd probably go is a 13+ cpma/cpmb engine swap. They can be had for around 2 grand plus install, and you could sell your engine for good money afterwards.

[Tba5]

Thanks all.

Part of the reason I'm asking is that I have the extended Fidelity warranty and it ends soon. I can get another extended power train Fidelity warranty for 4 more years for around $2000.

I'm wondering if the oil burning will be so bad that the dealer will recommend fixing it within the next 4 years, and if the warranty will cover it. If so, the warranty is a bargain if fixing it will cost $3700-$6641.

[Theiceman]

All.i can say is check the fine print on the warranty

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[zizouomar]

3000 miles per quart is pretty much nothing for these engines, but the route I'd probably go is a 13+ cpma/cpmb engine swap. They can be had for around 2 grand plus install, and you could sell your engine for good money afterwards.

I have a 2014 b8.5, brand new PCV, liquimoly oil and it burns a quart every 5000miles or so

[Theiceman]

I have a 2014 b8.5, brand new PCV, liquimoly oil and it burns a quart every 5000miles or so

sounds like its starting ..... may stay there forever, may get worse, its a crap shoot really.

[zizouomar]

sounds like its starting ..... may stay there forever, may get worse, its a crap shoot really.

I recently was burning a quart every 5-600 miles. It is better now with the last PCV version and the liquimoly as I went from 500 miles to 5000 miles for a quart, but not the best I could get I think

[Theiceman]

I recently was burning a quart every 5-600 miles. It is better now with the last PCV version and the liquimoly as I went from 500 miles to 5000 miles for a quart, but not the best I could get I think

oh thats good ..

[Rkymtnrider]

Thanks all.

Part of the reason I'm asking is that I have the extended Fidelity warranty and it ends soon. I can get another extended power train Fidelity warranty for 4 more years for around $2000.

I'm wondering if the oil burning will be so bad that the dealer will recommend fixing it within the next 4 years, and if the warranty will cover it. If so, the warranty is a bargain if fixing it will cost $3700-$6641.

My fidelity drivetrain warranty won’t cover oil consumption. It’s buried in the fine print. It’s also the warranty the dealer sold me to settle my worries on oil consumption. The manager straight up lied to me to get the sale. It does cover the timing tensioner though, so I kept it.

In The 1st 5000 miles, I went through 3 qts of oil. Every time I checked the oil level and it was down, I added oil to fill it back up. After my first oil change, the tech recommended to wait to add oil until the light told me to. In the next 5000 miles, the level went down 3/4 of the way, but not far enough to trigger the light.

[A4x]

My fidelity drivetrain warranty won’t cover oil consumption. It’s buried in the fine print. It’s also the warranty the dealer sold me to settle my worries on oil consumption. The manager straight up lied to me to get the sale. It does cover the timing tensioner though, so I kept it.

In The 1st 5000 miles, I went through 3 qts of oil. Every time I checked the oil level and it was down, I added oil to fill it back up. After my first oil change, the tech recommended to wait to add oil until the light told me to. In the next 5000 miles, the level went down 3/4 of the way, but not far enough to trigger the light.

Very interesting.

Personally, I don't like running my car anything short of full oil, so I always top up every 1000 miles or so.

Perhaps this topping up is causing more consumption (more oil = higher oil pressure)?

I just don't feel comfortable redlining my K04 car if I know it is 3/4 qt low on oil.

[Theiceman]

naw oil volume and pressure have very little correlation. pressure comes from the flow of the pump pushing out vs the restriction to flow in the bearings.. volume has very little bearing on that.

too much oil can cause cavitation and air in the oil , but if you are running just to maximum you are fine. i think our cars will tell you when it is too full anyway

[Rkymtnrider]

Very interesting.

Personally, I don't like running my car anything short of full oil, so I always top up every 1000 miles or so.

Perhaps this topping up is causing more consumption (more oil = higher oil pressure)?

I just don't feel comfortable redlining my K04 car if I know it is 3/4 qt low on oil.

I’ve got a 2012 Avant and it’s stock. It’s my dd. Never get anywhere near redline. My fun car is an E46 M3.

[Theiceman]

I’ve got a 2012 Avant and it’s stock. It’s my dd. Never get anywhere near redline. My fun car is an E46 M3.

my fun car is in my avatar.. nough said,.

[Tba5]

My fidelity drivetrain warranty won’t cover oil consumption. It’s buried in the fine print. It’s also the warranty the dealer sold me to settle my worries on oil consumption. The manager straight up lied to me to get the sale. It does cover the timing tensioner though, so I kept it.

In The 1st 5000 miles, I went through 3 qts of oil. Every time I checked the oil level and it was down, I added oil to fill it back up. After my first oil change, the tech recommended to wait to add oil until the light told me to. In the next 5000 miles, the level went down 3/4 of the way, but not far enough to trigger the light.

Wow, really? The Fidelity warranty doesn't cover it? No matter how bad it is?? At some point it will damage the cylinders.

I understand it won't cover anything that Audi says is normal (less than 1 quart every 1000 miles). You say you yours was 3 quarts in 5000, so that's still "Normal". Is that why Fidelity didn't cover it?


Edit:
You're right, it says:
"No payment or reimbursement for the correction of oil consumption, repair of worn rings, or any repairs for reduction in engine efficiency that must be performed on your vehicle when a Mechanical Breakdown has not occurred."

[OnyxCobra]

I have a 2014 b8.5, brand new PCV, liquimoly oil and it burns a quart every 5000miles or so

lol exactly, for these engines that's pretty much not using oil. It's normal for turbo engines to use small amounts of oil, a quart every 5000 miles is basically nothing. I'd probably just change my oil every 5k and be done with it.

[Theiceman]

All.i can say is check the fine print on the warranty

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

Your welcome

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[BrianC302]

lol exactly, for these engines that's pretty much not using oil. It's normal for turbo engines to use small amounts of oil, a quart every 5000 miles is basically nothing. I'd probably just change my oil every 5k and be done with it.

IDK if I would say it is "normal" in that there is no reason for them to burn significant amounts of oil. My 2011 A4 2.0t burns no measurable amount of oil on the MMI even after 10,000 miles between oil changes (pistons/rings done at 65,000 and now has 100,000 miles). My 2005 Saabaru with a 2.0 turbo even with 150,000 miles burnt about 0.2-0.3 quarts every 7,500 miles. When new it may have been closer to 0.1-0.2 but it was hard to tell the difference really.

While it is not unusual to burn a quart every 5,000 miles it would seem to me that it shouldn't be the "norm" as some of us with the revised piston rings burn virtually nothing. To me this suggests that a properly built Audi 2.0T engine should burn virtually no oil.

Audi, being the dirty company they are, likes to list it is "normal" to burn up to a quart every 1,000 miles but there is nothing "normal" about that other than the fact they build defective engines and don't want to have to fix them and bank on the fact many will not exceed that rate until they are past 60,000 miles and then the owner has to deal with it (unless a class action lawsuit helps them out with marginally better coverage).

[Tba5]

What makes this even more sad is that the engine in my car was replaced with a brand new engine (long block) at 31,000 miles. So, it only has 31,000 miles on the engine. I'm really disappointed that they gave me the same defective engine. The engine wasn't replaced because of oil consumption but because of something wrong with the connection between the engine and the transmission was out of line, and Audi decided the whole engine had to be replaced.

If it would stay at 1 quart every 3000 miles that would be great. But, just a couple years ago the gauge never moved between oil changes - it was always at the top of the gauge from oil change to oil change. So, it's gotten a lot worse compared to that, and I think I have to assume it will continue to get worse.

[zizouomar]

IDK if I would say it is "normal" in that there is no reason for them to burn significant amounts of oil. My 2011 A4 2.0t burns no measurable amount of oil on the MMI even after 10,000 miles between oil changes (pistons/rings done at 65,000 and now has 100,000 miles). My 2005 Saabaru with a 2.0 turbo even with 150,000 miles burnt about 0.2-0.3 quarts every 7,500 miles. When new it may have been closer to 0.1-0.2 but it was hard to tell the difference really.

While it is not unusual to burn a quart every 5,000 miles it would seem to me that it shouldn't be the "norm" as some of us with the revised piston rings burn virtually nothing. To me this suggests that a properly built Audi 2.0T engine should burn virtually no oil.

Audi, being the dirty company they are, likes to list it is "normal" to burn up to a quart every 1,000 miles but there is nothing "normal" about that other than the fact they build defective engines and don't want to have to fix them and bank on the fact many will not exceed that rate until they are past 60,000 miles and then the owner has to deal with it (unless a class action lawsuit helps them out with marginally better coverage).

Thats why I thought, Im kinda jealous of the b8 guys on here burning nothing, when I own a b8.5 with the last PCV version supposedly correcting every oil issues from the b8s

[A4x]

I recently was burning a quart every 5-600 miles. It is better now with the last PCV version and the liquimoly as I went from 500 miles to 5000 miles for a quart, but not the best I could get I think

That is a drastic improvement.

[Theiceman]

Thats why I thought, Im kinda jealous of the b8 guys on here burning nothing, when I own a b8.5 with the last PCV version supposedly correcting every oil issues from the b8s

im not sure about this .. im not sure where your read about the B8.5 correcting every oil issue of the B8. Unfortunately a lot of incorrect information is out on the net.

The B8.5 had exactly the same oil scraper ring configuration as its predecessor the B8 so it stands to reason it would suffer the same fate.

Yes it uses a different part number piston. This is because Audi changed the wrist pin size in this engine , and is unrelated to oil usage. However if you order the replacement piston from Audi today with the original part number in the system , you will get a modified design with the oil scraper rings ... after my 8.5 rebuild my oil is on full between oil changes ( 5k km or 3k miles ).


also for those reading this compression test has ZERO relation to oil scraper rings and oil burning .. my car had 175 compression and rings and pistons were completely beat ...

[Thunderthumb]

im not sure about this .. im not sure where your read about the B8.5 correcting every oil issue of the B8. Unfortunately a lot of incorrect information is out on the net.

The B8.5 had exactly the same oil scraper ring configuration as its predecessor the B8 so it stands to reason it would suffer the same fate.

Yes it uses a different part number piston. This is because Audi changed the wrist pin size in this engine , and is unrelated to oil usage. However if you order the replacement piston from Audi today with the original part number in the system , you will get a modified design with the oil scraper rings ... after my 8.5 rebuild my oil is on full between oil changes ( 5k km or 3k miles ).


also for those reading this compression test has ZERO relation to oil scraper rings and oil burning .. my car had 175 compression and rings and pistons were completely beat ...

If the rings are beat, particularly the sealing rings, wouldnt there be less compression? Mine smoke like a chimney but has about 180 psi on all cylinders.

[Theiceman]

There are two sets of rings, each have their function. Your oil scraper rings can be beat ( which is what I meant) and compression rings can be fine and give great compression and power.
When we talk about" rings" with oil usage we are always talking about oil scraper rings.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine mobile app

[ELaw]

I'm not sure this squares with the photo you posted, but my understanding is the issue is not that the oil rings wear out. Instead what happens is so much carbon collects in the slotted portion of the ring (the bottom of the "U" if you look at the cross-section) that it blocks oil from returning to the crankcase via the holes in the center of the ring, or sometimes completely fills that space to the point the carbon probably is preventing the ring edges from making contact with the cylinder. If you poke around the intarwebs, there are some photos of rings with an amazing amount of carbon in them.

[Misticvega]

Was in same boat as you bud. My used 09 I bought in 11 had already has same defective engine swapped (never knew until 60k miles later lol). I swapped my 2nd CAEB for a CPMB (Burning 1 quart every 175 miles). First CPMB got damaged in shipping so they provided 2nd one at no additional charge. 7k miles (dude got rear-ended) for $2700, also turbo from same car for $400. Misc parts/tools $900. I got the job done for 4k total.

Edit: Bought engine from LKQ

[Theiceman]

I'm not sure this squares with the photo you posted, but my understanding is the issue is not that the oil rings wear out. Instead what happens is so much carbon collects in the slotted portion of the ring (the bottom of the "U" if you look at the cross-section) that it blocks oil from returning to the crankcase via the holes in the center of the ring, or sometimes completely fills that space to the point the carbon probably is preventing the ring edges from making contact with the cylinder. If you poke around the intarwebs, there are some photos of rings with an amazing amount of carbon in them.

yes .. that is correct .. that makes these rings beat , they dont do their job, i didnt say they were worn out. they are totally clogged.

[MugelloB7RS4]

I don't know if this will help, or if you'd even be interested, but I have an 07 Audi and I bought it with about 43K on it and now it's about 163K. It would burn between 1-2L of oil per 3K oil change intervals. It never concerned me because the car still always ran well and I know there are a few things that can contribute to oil consumption that aren't super serious. Oddly the consumption was stable, never increased over the next 100K or so.

Now, I will preface this by saying that I generally never suggest using some type of additive or band aid to fix something, however in my case where I wasn't concerned, and after doing some research and having dinner one night with a Liqui moly rep, I decided to use their motor oil saver. I read that it can sometimes take multiple uses so I got enough to use over 3 oil changes. On the first oil change I didn't notice much of a difference, now about 1000 miles into the second oil change and the level hasn't dropped a bit. All indications are it's working as it implies it would, but I can't confirm or deny until I'm done with all 3, however it looks promising.

It will all boil down to what the source of the consumption is. If it's something like a seal or similar that was letting oil by, it may be rejuvenated by something like MoS. If it's caused by something else it may not. For me it's cheap, it was worth a try and seems to be working, however I also get that it's not for everyone.

[Theiceman]

I don't know if this will help, or if you'd even be interested, but I have an 07 Audi and I bought it with about 43K on it and now it's about 163K. It would burn between 1-2L of oil per 3K oil change intervals. It never concerned me because the car still always ran well and I know there are a few things that can contribute to oil consumption that aren't super serious. Oddly the consumption was stable, never increased over the next 100K or so.

Now, I will preface this by saying that I generally never suggest using some type of additive or band aid to fix something, however in my case where I wasn't concerned, and after doing some research and having dinner one night with a Liqui moly rep, I decided to use their motor oil saver. I read that it can sometimes take multiple uses so I got enough to use over 3 oil changes. On the first oil change I didn't notice much of a difference, now about 1000 miles into the second oil change and the level hasn't dropped a bit. All indications are it's working as it implies it would, but I can't confirm or deny until I'm done with all 3, however it looks promising.

It will all boil down to what the source of the consumption is. If it's something like a seal or similar that was letting oil by, it may be rejuvenated by something like MoS. If it's caused by something else it may not. For me it's cheap, it was worth a try and seems to be working, however I also get that it's not for everyone.

please report back as we have had pretty well zero documented cases of additives helping....
also the B7 as you know is a completely different engine , Primary source of burning oil on that platform is PCV system and valve cover. But yes rings are known to be bad their too , just not nearly as prevalent as the B8.

[MugelloB7RS4]

please report back as we have had pretty well zero documented cases of additives helping....
also the B7 as you know is a completely different engine , Primary source of burning oil on that platform is PCV system and valve cover. But yes rings are known to be bad their too , just not nearly as prevalent as the B8.

No I totally hear you. I have a v8 too, so it's totally different beast, and I understand that. I honestly didn't have much faith in this stuff and still don't know what to expect, but in terms of price dollars/potential result, it's tough to beat. For me it just didn't make sense to rebuild or replace for that consumption, so I pulled the trigger on this.

[Theiceman]

No I totally hear you. I have a v8 too, so it's totally different beast, and I understand that. I honestly didn't have much faith in this stuff and still don't know what to expect, but in terms of price dollars/potential result, it's tough to beat. For me it just didn't make sense to rebuild or replace for that consumption, so I pulled the trigger on this.

well sounds like it has promise ...

[Tba5]

I don't know if this will help, or if you'd even be interested, but I have an 07 Audi and I bought it with about 43K on it and now it's about 163K. It would burn between 1-2L of oil per 3K oil change intervals. It never concerned me because the car still always ran well and I know there are a few things that can contribute to oil consumption that aren't super serious. Oddly the consumption was stable, never increased over the next 100K or so.

I hope that happens for me.

...after doing some research and having dinner one night with a Liqui moly rep, I decided to use their motor oil saver. I read that it can sometimes take multiple uses so I got enough to use over 3 oil changes. On the first oil change I didn't notice much of a difference, now about 1000 miles into the second oil change and the level hasn't dropped a bit. All indications are it's working as it implies it would, but I can't confirm or deny until I'm done with all 3, however it looks promising.

Thanks for the tip. As Theiceman also said, please report back!

[Thunderthumb]

Another option you might consider is running a service check on specific salvaged audis at auctions and see if the oil rings have been redone along with timing chain. You should be able to get all that detailed info from any dealer. If you find a good "rear end totaled" candidate you can buy the car at auction and then swap the engines out and then resell the salvaged car to a junk yard. Might be the cheapest way to go but I dont know if any mechanics would be willing to do the swap.