Battery replacement 4.0T (S6, S7, RS7)

[gk1]

My main question/concern was AGM VS Non Agm Battery but I think I've figured that out now. Never found the place with vcds to check out battery health but oh well.

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Yeah I still don't think that is clear.
My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Mine is a 2015 non-AGM and there is a 2013, 2014 and 2017 in this thread with AGMs. Out of curiosity what year is yours?

From what I have read there are slight differences in charging characteristics for a system designed for AGM batteries vs a system which was not, but how does that translate into the real world C7 I am not sure.
I believe many off-the-shelf AGM batteries are designed to be conventional battery replacements and work in pretty much any automotive application, but I do not know for sure.
Will you get less battery lifespan by using an AGM battery in a charging system not specifically designed for it? I don't know but I am doubtful it will have any real effect at all.

Also fwiw from what I have read the vcds information regarding battery health can be misleading.

[mwmaroney1]

Yeah I still don't think that is clear.
My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Mine is a 2015 non-AGM and there is a 2013, 2014 and 2017 in this thread with AGMs. Out of curiosity what year is yours?

From what I have read there are slight differences in charging characteristics for a system designed for AGM batteries vs a system which was not, but how does that translate into the real world C7 I am not sure.
I believe many off-the-shelf AGM batteries are designed to be conventional battery replacements and work in pretty much any automotive application, but I do not know for sure.
Will you get less battery lifespan by using an AGM battery in a charging system not specifically designed for it? I don't know but I am doubtful it will have any real effect at all.

Also fwiw from what I have read the vcds information regarding battery health can be misleading.

Mine is a 2014, after searching the codes found on my old battery I ended up just going with a non-AGM. It was the right choice, after removing the old one you can clearly hear the liquid inside. I had just read online that if you had AGM and went to non it can have issues but who knows, the new one is in now and working fine. Coding was simple, thanks for everyone's input and the nice write up by the OP.

On a side note Advance Auto doesn't allow coupons on the batteries anymore

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[Alabama]

My car is like yours I have the option code J0Z same as Alabama pointed out in post#23, but I definitely do not have an AGM battery.
AFAIK J0Z just means it is a 520 A (110 Ah) battery as opposed to other sizes.

Moot point, but since my post #23 I downloaded the vehicle specific information for my car from erWin, 183 separate PR codes. PR code J0Z description is "Battery 520 A (110 Ah)" as you note. However, I also have a PR code NY2 on the printout (not on the label in the trunk) which is described as "Increased battery capacity". Maybe that translates to AGM? Anyway, my vague memory of a long-ago conversation with an employee of East Penn Manufacturing is that a main claim for AGM is resistance to vibration, but a high quality non-AGM battery is still a good battery. Since I stiffen up the suspension, road vibration might or might not be an issue so I would pay a few extra bucks for AGM.

[gk1]

Moot point, but since my post #23 I downloaded the vehicle specific information for my car from erWin, 183 separate PR codes. PR code J0Z description is "Battery 520 A (110 Ah)" as you note. However, I also have a PR code NY2 on the printout (not on the label in the trunk) which is described as "Increased battery capacity". Maybe that translates to AGM? Anyway, my vague memory of a long-ago conversation with an employee of East Penn Manufacturing is that a main claim for AGM is resistance to vibration, but a high quality non-AGM battery is still a good battery. Since I stiffen up the suspension, road vibration might or might not be an issue so I would pay a few extra bucks for AGM.

Interesting note, but it does look like NY4 and NY5 are the option for AGM batteries, so it is still a bit of a mystery why some have them and some do not.
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity
As you mentioned maybe port installed vs. dealer installed?
Possible example...my car originally came off the boat and was immediately taken to an east coast dealer so it has a flooded cell, but if it took a long train or truck ride to get to the dealer then maybe they swapped in an AGM???
My bet is more just on availability from wherever the battery was installed if they had old flooded cells to get rid of they put them in if not then AGM.
mwmaroney1 , was your car originally a CO car or did it come from someplace else like mine?

[mwmaroney1]

Interesting note, but it does look like NY4 and NY5 are the option for AGM batteries, so it is still a bit of a mystery why some have them and some do not.
NY4 BGK AGM battery and increased alternator capacity
NY5 BGK AGM battery and standard alternator capacity
As you mentioned maybe port installed vs. dealer installed?
Possible example...my car originally came off the boat and was immediately taken to an east coast dealer so it has a flooded cell, but if it took a long train or truck ride to get to the dealer then maybe they swapped in an AGM???
My bet is more just on availability from wherever the battery was installed if they had old flooded cells to get rid of they put them in if not then AGM.
mwmaroney1 , was your car originally a CO car or did it come from someplace else like mine?

It was from the east coast originally, had it shipped out here.

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[infinitereality]

Thanks for this thread. my '14 is in need of a new battery, as it left me stranded for a bit. Just needed a jump start and all was good to get home.

Reading through to program a new battery, but came across a question. My PR is J0B which the interstate battery website states is H8-AGM. Previous owner did replace the battery at some point (no clue if he coded it) with a AutoCraft H8-AGM. I don't mind going with lead acid to save a few bucks since I'll likely be trading it in within a year, but.... can't determine if this is a bad idea or not. Anyone have AGM and went with a standard battery?

[ItsLarryG]

I took out a H9 size lead acid battery Audi put in at some point before I purchased the car. I replaced with a H9 AGM battery from O’Reilley without any issue.

[135Hoser]

I replaced my battery today for the second time in 3 years of ownership, as Audi refuses to warranty the battery I bought from them unless I pay $200 in diagnostics, which is non-refundable even if their battery is found to be defective. I went to a local parts retailer who sold me an 95R/H9 AGM battery that's 105AH with 950CCA size. It was $200 less than the dealership wanted, coded the info with VCDS, and so far, 4 hours in, nothing has caught fire.

My previous battery had plenty of CCA, but the internal resistance was wrong? I dunno, it failed the dealerships tester and my mechanics tester, so guess it was time to replace.

[VR2V8]

I replaced my battery today for the second time in 3 years of ownership, as Audi refuses to warranty the battery I bought from them unless I pay $200 in diagnostics, which is non-refundable even if their battery is found to be defective. I went to a local parts retailer who sold me an 95R/H9 AGM battery that's 105AH with 950CCA size. It was $200 less than the dealership wanted, coded the info with VCDS, and so far, 4 hours in, nothing has caught fire.

My previous battery had plenty of CCA, but the internal resistance was wrong? I dunno, it failed the dealerships tester and my mechanics tester, so guess it was time to replace.

The dealer has replaced the battery on my 2018 twice now under warranty. Audi really needs to use better batteries or design better electrical systems. I've never had a car eat so many batteries, especially a new car.

[Alabama]

Anyone have AGM and went with a standard battery?

Interesting question I have not seen an answer to. Some C7 S6/7 cars are sold with standard, some with AGM. No one seems to know if this is random or if there is some difference in the AGM cars that requires AGM. But here's something interesting. On the Costco/Interstate website, entering info for 2014 S6 with J0Z PR code (mine) shows an AGM H9 battery as the answer, but entering info for 2014 S7 and J0B PR code shows "battery fit not available".

[MattyMarkey]

Interesting question I have not seen an answer to. Some C7 S6/7 cars are sold with standard, some with AGM. No one seems to know if this is random or if there is some difference in the AGM cars that requires AGM. But here's something interesting. On the Costco/Interstate website, entering info for 2014 S6 with J0Z PR code (mine) shows an AGM H9 battery as the answer, but entering info for 2014 S7 and J0B PR code shows "battery fit not available".

Possibly the only thing that makes sense here... the S7 does have more “automatic” features compared to the S6 - soft close doors, power sport hatch. That may make make sense for the reason why it requires a different battery spec.


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[Alabama]

Possibly the only thing that makes sense here... the S7 does have more “automatic” features compared to the S6 - soft close doors, power sport hatch. That may make make sense for the reason why it requires a different battery spec.

Could be, but infinitereality's battery for his S7 is size H8, which while AGM is physically smaller than my H9 AGM and with a little less juice. So not only is there variation in AGM/non-AGM, there is also variation between H8 and H9.

[infinitereality]

Could be, but infinitereality's battery for his S7 is size H8, which while AGM is physically smaller than my H9 AGM and with a little less juice. So not only is there variation in AGM/non-AGM, there is also variation between H8 and H9.

One of the parts stores also suggested, I believe H6 and/or H7 as sizes that would also fit. I'm sticking to H8, just due to that's what the car originally had. Also to play it safe, AGM as well. I should mention when I said I was trading it in, it is for a FL version. I don't think I could be happier in anything else.

PXL_20210319_201437057.jpg

[Alabama]

One of the parts stores also suggested, I believe H6 and/or H7 as sizes that would also fit. I'm sticking to H8, just due to that's what the car originally had. Also to play it safe, AGM as well. I should mention when I said I was trading it in, it is for a FL version. I don't think I could be happier in anything else.

Safest decision. One concern is physical dimension of the battery, maybe what the parts store folk were referring to. The H6-H7-H8-H9 all have the same height (190 mm) and width (175 mm); they vary in length: H6-278mm, H7-315mm, H8-356mm, and H9-394mm. So if the car accommodates an H9, it will physically accommodate any of the others. Of course, the different batteries also vary in electrical parameters. Considering the cost of the car and with discounts on AGM, the price difference between AGM/non-AGM over the life of the battery isn't very great. Further, as other AZ threads discuss, these cars have so many electronic components sensitive to power fluctuations, it seems prudent to use a top quality battery. Go crank up that upgraded stereo!

[gk1]

It's understandable than AGM is "better" than flooded however what seems to get overlooked is an AGM can have different charging requirements than a flooded battery. Now for the most part an AGM can directly go where a flooded battery was used, but I don't know or at least have not read anything regarding IF the charging systems are indeed different then perhaps the AGM will suffer (not last as long as it should) if using it to replace a flooded battery.

"AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. A charge to 2.40V/cell (and higher) is fine; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed (AGM) unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive. "

That being said this may only apply to what could be called "power" AGM batteries like Odyssey or Optima whereas the "regular" AGM's may have a different design to them to purposely replace flooded. I don't know.

These things could be minor and in the grand scheme of things may make little to no difference to most users. If you replace you better every 4 years then it may not matter, but if you happen to get 7+ (like me) from a flooded is it possible that swapping in an AGM may drop that to only 5? Again... irrelevant for many, just something to discuss.

The other question is...do cars with AGM batteries from the factory have a different charging system than cars with flooded systems. Another one I don't know. Perhaps someone can monitor through VCDS or even better a remote voltmeter if on long drives with an AGM battery does the charging voltage drop to between 13.5V-13.8V?

[Alabama]

If you replace you better every 4 years then it may not matter, but if you happen to get 7+ (like me) from a flooded is it possible that swapping in an AGM may drop that to only 5? The other question is...do cars with AGM batteries from the factory have a different charging system than cars with flooded systems. Another one I don't know.

I don't know either, but I bet you're not using a 36 month DieHard from Sears. However, the following quote from the Automotive Aftermarket Suppliers Association (AASA) implies that the VCDS coding for replacing a battery that many complain about may have more importance than realized: "While the installation of the *battery may be the same for the two battery styles, some vehicles require an extra step to tell the vehicle that the battery has been replaced. Newer vehicles have a Battery Sensor Module or similar systems. These systems require recalibration with a scan tool if the battery is replaced. If the system is not recalibrated, the alternator might overcharge the new battery and cause the battery to fail soon after replacement." So maybe the best answer is to replace type with same type unless one knows how to "tell" the car electronics that the type has changed.

[gk1]

So maybe the best answer is to replace type with same type unless one knows how to "tell" the car electronics that the type has changed.

Exactly. I did not see anyplace to recode from "flooded cell charging" to "AGM charging" last time I looked. It may have more to do with what specific alternator is installed?

[Alabama]

Exactly. I did not see anyplace to recode from "flooded cell charging" to "AGM charging" last time I looked. It may have more to do with what specific alternator is installed?

Ninety pages of "Audi Vehicle Batteries and Energy Management Systems Self-Study Program 972703" and I'm none the wiser. Maybe the BEM system can distinguish flooded from AGM by battery behavior? From the document: "AGM batteries are used in Audi vehicles when the charge/discharge cycle capacity, cold start, and leak protection must be greater than conventional wet batteries." "Energy Management Control Module J644: The Energy Management Control Module is mounted in the trunk near the battery. The control module constantly monitors the battery. It checks the State of Charge (SOC), checks starting capability, and regulates the optimum alternator charging voltage with the engine running. It can apply load reduction and increase idling speed. To reduce the no load current with the engine OFF, the control module deactivates loads over the CAN Bus which prevents excessive battery discharge. This control module has been adapted for use in the A6, with revised software, which shows the battery condition rather than the battery charge level in the MMI display." Oh, well.

[gk1]

Ninety pages of "Audi Vehicle Batteries and Energy Management Systems Self-Study Program 972703" and I'm none the wiser. Maybe the BEM system can distinguish flooded from AGM by battery behavior? From the document: "AGM batteries are used in Audi vehicles when the charge/discharge cycle capacity, cold start, and leak protection must be greater than conventional wet batteries." "Energy Management Control Module J644: The Energy Management Control Module is mounted in the trunk near the battery. The control module constantly monitors the battery. It checks the State of Charge (SOC), checks starting capability, and regulates the optimum alternator charging voltage with the engine running. It can apply load reduction and increase idling speed. To reduce the no load current with the engine OFF, the control module deactivates loads over the CAN Bus which prevents excessive battery discharge. This control module has been adapted for use in the A6, with revised software, which shows the battery condition rather than the battery charge level in the MMI display." Oh, well.

Yep, it certainly seems from that statement that the system can adapt to either battery type, so maybe my hypothesis is true and some people got flooded batteries since they were some "left over" at the time of installation either at the port or at the factory...(I'm not sure where the battery is finally installed.) Good find.

[bknewtype]

Is there any sort of list of approved batteries we can use? Im replacing mine soon and have no idea which to get. Just stick with the specs of my original?


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[Alabama]

Is there any sort of list of approved batteries we can use? Im replacing mine soon and have no idea which to get. Just stick with the specs of my original?

Audi publishes a list of approved motor oils but I've never seen a list of "approved" batteries. The US car batteries are I believe all made by three companies under a wide variety of marketing names. Matching electrical parameters is certainly advised. Matching physical size is probably a good idea to minimize the chance of vibration. Read above to learn about "flooded" versus "AGM". Bottom line, you should not go wrong sticking to the specs of the current battery.

[jobu72]

Just wanted to throw out a "thank you" to everyone who posts stuff like this. I enjoy browsing topics like this just to have more knowledge about vehicles that I own. When problems come up, I already have ideas in mind.

Anyway, this particular thread helped me just last weekend. Was working on a suspected mirror assembly wiring issue, having the car accessories on for extended time. The car starting freaking out, all kinds of errors and warnings, then nothing. Figured battery maybe dead, and yes it was. Turns out, it looks like previous owner replaced the battery with a slightly smaller one, 92ah, and the car was still coded for 110ah. Charged it back up and recoded. Will certainly put in the larger one when needed. That battery has a 2019 date code on it, so I guess no sense in doing it until needed.

But anyway, thank you for posting stuff like this!

[RAF_S7]

This may be useful to anyone thinking of changing their battery.

If you look at your Car PR Codes (Normally found on a label in the trunk or handbook) it should contain one of the indicated PR-XXX codes shown below, which tells you want size of OEM battery you have installed. If replacing, go similar or larger in terms of battery capacity.



John.

[jobu72]

This may be useful to anyone thinking of changing their battery.

If you look at your Car PR Codes (Normally found on a label in the trunk or handbook) it should contain one of the indicated PR-XXX codes shown below, which tells you want size of OEM battery you have installed. If replacing, go similar or larger in terms of battery capacity.



John.

That pretty much confirms if for me. I see a J0Z code. That, along with it having been previously coded as 110AH. Definitely what I'll buy when having to replace it next.

[bknewtype]

Finally took the time
To check my battery. Gonna order a new one tonight


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[RAF_S7]

FYI

Here

[bknewtype]

Has anyone here ran a new non amg battery on a car that came with an amg battery? I know one person who did and has 0 issues. Just wanted to check if others has positive experience with this

Bout to head out and im torn between getting amg and non amg. Not a huge difference in price ( around 50 including taxes ) but would like to pocket that 50 for lunch if i can


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[gk1]

Has anyone here ran a new non amg battery on a car that came with an amg battery? I know one person who did and has 0 issues. Just wanted to check if others has positive experience with this

Bout to head out and im torn between getting amg and non amg. Not a huge difference in price ( around 50 including taxes ) but would like to pocket that 50 for lunch if i can


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I'd get the AGM....if your car came with an AGM battery. (Not amg..how would you fit a Mercedes in your trunk? )
It may be fine either way, but replacing flooded with AGM may be one thing (possible undercharging), while replacing AGM with flooded could be a different story (possible overcharging). A 1 user statistical sampling is not really proof that it is a good idea, and even if 10 people chime in without issues after 1 year I still don't know if that would be proof. Again, it may take a while to be an issue (if at all) which may not be an issue to you in the short run. But $50 over 7-8 years or having to purchase a new battery in just 3-4 years because it was not the right type....it's your call, but might ultimately just be splitting hairs.

[bknewtype]

I'd get the AGM....if your car came with an AGM battery. (Not amg..how would you fit a Mercedes in your trunk? )
It may be fine either way, but replacing flooded with AGM may be one thing (possible undercharging), while replacing AGM with flooded could be a different story (possible overcharging). A 1 user statistical sampling is not really proof that it is a good idea, and even if 10 people chime in without issues after 1 year I still don't know if that would be proof. Again, it may take a while to be an issue (if at all) which may not be an issue to you in the short run. But $50 over 7-8 years or having to purchase a new battery in just 3-4 years because it was not the right type....it's your call, but might ultimately just be splitting hairs.

I had to retype agm like 50 times somewhere else and failed to correct it here

Ur absolutely right thats why i decided to ask that 1 sample is not enough. But to be fair im prob keeping this car for just another 3 years max. But who knows. Either way, ill check to see if they have the agm in stock. This is what im looking at




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[gk1]

Yeah I am just saying that even if you get 10 affirmative response on this thread (unlikely), is that still a statistically large enough sample? For you, for 3 years, maybe that is good enough. For anyone searching if all 10 said they replaced flooded with AGM 5+ years ago then maybe, but I'm betting anyone who did is still at less than 2 years right now.

Duralast Platinum H9 AGM - $200
Advance Auto DieHard Platinum H9 AGM- $220 (Probably the exact same battery)
OE replacement 000915105CE - $227 (Some dealers are less than $200 but you'd have to check local to you since they are not shipping them.)
Yeah, so they are all roughly the same price.
You could downsize to an H8 AGM they come in around $170 at some places. Might be worth it to shop around.

[bknewtype]

Our babies deserve the best so whatever xD


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[Alabama]

Duralast Platinum H9 AGM - $200
Advance Auto DieHard Platinum H9 AGM- $220 (Probably the exact same battery)

All the US car batteries are made by either Johnson Controls, Exide, or East Penn. Which company makes which brand may vary over time as contracts change. bknewtype's Varta battery I believe is Johnson Controls and looks to be an H8. From the Varta website: "Keep in mind: an AGM battery must always be replaced with an AGM." To my knowledge there is no problem replacing H8 with H9 size so long as it may be securely mounted.

[bknewtype]

I noticed theres no BEM code on my
New battery. Is that gonna be an issue with coding?

Edit* i just realized i have 0 info on whats required for coding


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[gk1]

I noticed theres no BEM code on my
New battery. Is that gonna be an issue with coding?


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Check under the stickers, but short answer is no. Search, there are plenty of threads about coding batteries and just changing the last digit of the serial number etc. etc.
Although the new one looks to be 100Ah compared to your stock 92Ah so if just change the last digit of the serial number and if you were to look into it the car might display strange percentages somewhere in the measuring blocks. Will it cause an actual issue, unlikely. I would think it is better to have a large battery that the car "thinks" it is smaller than a small battery the car "thinks" is larger.

[bknewtype]

Check under the stickers, but short answer is no. Search, there are plenty of threads about coding batteries and just changing the last digit of the serial number etc. etc.
Although the new one looks to be 100Ah compared to your stock 92Ah so if just change the last digit of the serial number and if you were to look into it the car might display strange percentages somewhere in the measuring blocks. Will it cause an actual issue, unlikely. I would think it is better to have a large battery that the car "thinks" it is smaller than a small battery the car "thinks" is larger.

I looked under the stickers. I have no bem code, no serial number, nothing i basically have no information for any of the coding lol



This is all that’s under the sticker


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[RAF_S7]

I looked under the stickers. I have no bem code, no serial number, nothing i basically have no information for any of the coding lol



This is all that’s under the sticker


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You don’t really need anything to code the new battery.

You can change the serial number of the old battery by one digit, using VCDS, and use the drop down menus to change the battery size to 105Ah.

John.

[bknewtype]

You don’t really need anything to code the new battery.

You can change the serial number of the old battery by one digit, using VCDS, and use the drop down menus to change the battery size to 105Ah.

John.

Good to know!

Now i have one last question

In vcds i see 2 separate sections that pertains to batteries in adaptations

The first section had pre stored values ( old battery info)

The second section had “ unknown “ as the stored values

Which ones do i update? I actually did the second section ( with stored values stating unknown) without realizing there was another section for battery




And if i was supposed to change the top not the
Bottom set, should i go back and put back to unknown? Or will that even work?

Thanks all so far!


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[RAF_S7]

You update Battery 1.

Battery 2 is only used when you have a 2nd OEM battery installed (Special order)

[bknewtype]

You update Battery 1.

Battery 2 is only used when you have a 2nd OEM battery installed (Special order)

Fml so i updated the wrong one

U think i can just leave the values? Or should i clear them somehow?


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[RAF_S7]

I’d clear them, and update Battery 1 values.

On my car, battery #2 settings are actually not set.