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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings OlyS6's Avatar
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    Testing motor mounts on VCDS

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    So, I know it’s been discussed, but I hadn’t been able to find instructions in how to test your motor mounts using VCDS. Turns out it’s really easy-
    First, in the main menu, go to the second page of ‘installed’ modules and find the BA motor mounts button:


    Once you’re on the motor mounts menu, go to output tests:


    In output tests, you can select either the left (driver’s side) or right (passenger side) mounts as the top 2 options on the following screen:


    Once you select one of the tests and press START, you should hear a fairly loud and fast vibratory noise. Press stop and then run the test for the other side. Both sounds should be equally obnoxious.

    It helps to run this test in ACC mode and with your windows down. There is definitely no mistaking the noise. In general, if the fluid has leaked out of the mount, even if you aren’t getting a DTC error code, the affected mount(s) won’t make anywhere near the noise that they should.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings nvygw171's Avatar
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    Awesome timing for this to show up. I was able determine I have a mount down with no DTC.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvygw171 View Post
    Awesome timing for this to show up. I was able determine I have a mount down with no DTC.
    Did you notice any difference in noise, comfort driving around with that mount down?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mintytoo View Post
    Did you notice any difference in noise, comfort driving around with that mount down?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    FWIW on mine there was a DTC code for failed motor mount which re-appeared after clearing and I had the purple goo leaking on my driveway, but not much difference in the way of driving on the way to get it fixed. VCDS test was just a secondary confirmation.
    nvygw171, if you don't have a DTC what made you think to check them?
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  5. #5
    Junior Member One Ring Jordanmc321's Avatar
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    Hello,

    Does anyone know why I can't test my mounts? I get the message "refused by control module"

    2015 S7 tried with just ignition on and with engine running, both get the same message.

  6. #6
    Junior Member One Ring Jordanmc321's Avatar
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    IMG_0557.jpg


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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordanmc321 View Post
    Hello,

    Does anyone know why I can't test my mounts? I get the message "refused by control module"

    2015 S7 tried with just ignition on and with engine running, both get the same message.
    Odd...legit VCDS cable?
    Only other guess is the motor mount control module has failed. What exactly are the fault codes you are getting?
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  8. #8
    Junior Member One Ring Jordanmc321's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    Odd...legit VCDS cable?
    Only other guess is the motor mount control module has failed. What exactly are the fault codes you are getting?
    Yes using the HEX-V2. I'm not actually getting a fault code but after reading on here they can fail without throwing a fault code I thought I'd test them to see if they are fine. Also want to make sure all is good before I go stage 1 with a DS1.


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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Ok. I take that back. There is definitely something wrong with VCDS release 20.4.0. I just tried the motor mount tests for the first time on 20.4.0 now (it previously worked on 19) and I could not test them either.
    I saw a manual download for 20.4.1 on VCDS site and tried that and now it works. So give that a shot.
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  10. #10
    Junior Member One Ring Jordanmc321's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    Ok. I take that back. There is definitely something wrong with VCDS release 20.4.0. I just tried the motor mount tests for the first time on 20.4.0 now (it previously worked on 19) and I could not test them either.
    I saw a manual download for 20.4.1 on VCDS site and tried that and now it works. So give that a shot.
    Ahh great I'll do that know and report back. Thank you!


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  11. #11
    Junior Member One Ring Jordanmc321's Avatar
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    All working now, pleased to say both mounts sound very much the same.


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Good deal.
    Looks like Ross-tech had fixed it just last week.
    https://forums.ross-tech.com/showthr...control-module
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Three Rings akingzkid's Avatar
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    I assume that the A6 doesn't have the option to test our motor mounts? My VCDS does not show that module anywhere.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akingzkid View Post
    I assume that the A6 doesn't have the option to test our motor mounts? My VCDS does not show that module anywhere.
    Right. The 3.0T does not have active mounts like the 4.0T.
    It does have a solenoid though, but it would not help you diagnose if a mount is bad as they just click in the diagnostic tests under the engine module.

    Basic principles of 3.0T motor mount operations. (from some old guy)
    "They have two chambers. One rigid and one flexible. The solenoid opens both chambers at idle to smooth things out. Once the solenoid closes the mounts stiffen up (S mode). As long as the solenoid is operating properly you will not get a fault. The faults can be open circuit, short circuit or overload. The ECU has no way of knowing if the chambers are leaking or ruptured. It can only monitor the function of the solenoid. "
    Last edited by gk1; 05-03-2020 at 08:32 PM.
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  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings Serpex13's Avatar
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    I did this test last night and it worked. Thanks!

  16. #16
    Senior Member Three Rings akingzkid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    Right. The 3.0T does not have active mounts like the 4.0T.
    It does have a solenoid though, but it would not help you diagnosis if a mount is bad as they just click in the diagnostic tests under the engine module.

    Basic principles of 3.0T motor mount operations. (from some old guy)
    "They have two chambers. One rigid and one flexible. The solenoid opens both chambers at idle to smooth things out. Once the solenoid closes the mounts stiffen up (S mode). As long as the solenoid is operating properly you will not get a fault. The faults can be open circuit, short circuit or overload. The ECU has no way of knowing if the chambers are leaking or ruptured. It can only monitor the function of the solenoid. "
    Good info. Thank you.

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings T00fast's Avatar
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    Just did this on my '16 s6. I got annoying buzz vibrations from both sides. No fault codes, i'd say my mounts are good for now.

  18. #18
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    I have a fault on vcds BA Motor mounts actuator 1 open circuit vcds fault code, no dash lights. Output tests in module front appear to do anything.

    Can't see any fluid under car but it is wet pretty much all the time here!

    Car seems to drive ok, anything to be concerned with?

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpig View Post
    I have a fault on vcds BA Motor mounts actuator 1 open circuit vcds fault code, no dash lights. Output tests in module front appear to do anything.

    Can't see any fluid under car but it is wet pretty much all the time here!

    Car seems to drive ok, anything to be concerned with?
    You won’t get a dash light for motor mount failures. You also won’t be able to clear the DTC fault code. Running the output test for both sides, you will need to listen for the different vibration notes. One will be louder than the other.

    In short: if you have that fault code in VAG, you have a failed mount. Time to replace it/them.


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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpig View Post
    I have a fault on vcds BA Motor mounts actuator 1 open circuit vcds fault code, no dash lights. Output tests in module front appear to do anything.

    Can't see any fluid under car but it is wet pretty much all the time here!

    Car seems to drive ok, anything to be concerned with?
    "open circuit" may be that the wiring is an issue.
    You have to have the latest VCDS version to do the output tests, there was a version that broke the tests.
    The fluid is like black/purple ink when they leak, but it is also possible for them to break and not leak.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    "open circuit" may be that the wiring is an issue.
    You have to have the latest VCDS version to do the output tests, there was a version that broke the tests.
    The fluid is like black/purple ink when they leak, but it is also possible for them to break and not leak.
    Thank you both, I'll get under and have a proper look at the connections and whether any fluid is coming out if it ever stops raining!

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by gk1 View Post
    "open circuit" may be that the wiring is an issue.
    You have to have the latest VCDS version to do the output tests, there was a version that broke the tests.
    The fluid is like black/purple ink when they leak, but it is also possible for them to break and not leak.
    Very true gk1. Just looked at the DTC I had when the motor mount failed: C1331 07 [009] - Mechanical Failure


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings RAF_S7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingpig View Post
    Thank you both, I'll get under and have a proper look at the connections and whether any fluid is coming out if it ever stops raining!
    I had a RH mount failure 25k miles ago. Electrical failure with no loss of the hydraulic fluid.

    The mounts are only active in COD mode (4 cylinder mode)

    I’m also APR Stage 1 tuned (have been since around 20k miles) and one of the tune options is to have COD switched off, so I had them switch it off after I got the mount failure notice on VCDS. The mount still doesn’t work, but I’ve had zero issues since running with COD switched off.

    It’s quite an expensive repair btw, with each mount costing around £580 each - and Audi will only replace as a pair! Not a recommended DIY repair, unless you have the right tools and a car lift.
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings gk1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAF_S7 View Post
    It’s quite an expensive repair btw, with each mount costing around £580 each - and Audi will only replace as a pair! Not a recommended DIY repair, unless you have the right tools and a car lift.
    Not any more. They will do one at a time, but the original service manual says do them in pairs. Also just makes sense to do them in pairs.
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    I had to bring this thread back to life sorry.
    Both my 17 A8&S7 is shaking at idle .
    I have VCDS protocol UDS.

    I just ran the test twice as described in post #1. (S7)

    And hot dam no noise at all during the test.

    Look like a leak on passenger side.


    Can someone chime in please.




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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    Just reached out to my indy shop
    rep said about $1800 for driver side only passenger side should be little a less.
    So in my mind about $4k for both sides for parts and labor. Wtf

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  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings KenworthT680's Avatar
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    What mounts are going to purchase? OEM or 034? SRM has their mounts on sale for only $299.

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    I'm not sure yet I do have a First mile warranty which should cover these.

    If warranty work I'm assuming it has to be oem.

    I called my local Wyatt Johnson volkswagon dealership this morning after the Indy shop qoute ,just in case the warranty don't work .


    Volkswagon engine mount labor is $509.97 for the pair.

    I just bring them the parts.

    Interesting how different shops play the numbers game.





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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 09S5 View Post
    I'm not sure yet I do have a First mile warranty which should cover these.

    If warranty work I'm assuming it has to be oem.

    I called my local Wyatt Johnson volkswagon dealership this morning after the Indy shop qoute ,just in case the warranty don't work .


    Volkswagon engine mount labor is $509.97 for the pair.

    I just bring them the parts.

    Interesting how different shops play the numbers game.





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    $510 labor rate to replace both is an INCREDIBLE price! Must be only at $80-90/hr labor rate... that's a 5-6hr job, even for people who have replaced them before
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    I think the service manager made a mistake when he quoted the price.


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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    Performed the engine mount test this morning and the passenger side is very low frequency compared to the driver side .

    I know for sure the passenger side lost some fluid but it doesn't seem like a lot from the pictures.

    I also performed a test where I put the the car in drive with the brakes on push accelerator and really didn't noticed the engine raising.

    Is it safe to drive with a bad mount for a few weeks if you take it easy on the Champ? I have no idea how long the Champ had this issue.



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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 09S5 View Post
    Performed the engine mount test this morning and the passenger side is very low frequency compared to the driver side .

    I know for sure the passenger side lost some fluid but it doesn't seem like a lot from the pictures.

    I also performed a test where I put the the car in drive with the brakes on push accelerator and really didn't noticed the engine raising.

    Is it safe to drive with a bad mount for a few weeks if you take it easy on the Champ? I have no idea how long the Champ had this issue.



    https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ADXK-IobX1k
    Definitely safe to drive. Just want to get it fixed soon
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  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    Thank you for that pertinent information.

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  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    Cool

    I really hope my warranty kicks in, yesterday my service advisor sent me a INCREDIBLE estimate for repair .


    All I can say once my warranty is up I'm selling..

    Going back to a Cadillac CTSV ...LOL...
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  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings Alabama's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 09S5 View Post
    I really hope my warranty kicks in, yesterday my service advisor sent me a INCREDIBLE estimate for repair.
    What am I missing? Are there other parts involved? The OEM motor mounts for my 2014 S6 are parts #4H0199256T and 4H0199255T (same part numbers as on the 034 website for their Street Density Motor Mounts now priced at $737 for the pair). The retail price at the Audi USA parts website is $776 each. Royal Audi in Bloomington IN discounts them to $660 each. Also, I don't know about Tennessee but in Alabama there is no sales tax on labor.
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  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings 09S5's Avatar
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    I have no idea why this particular stealership decided to increase there numbers.
    Maybe because they just open up another Audi dealership downtown Nashville.
    But still this look like strong arm robbery.
    I guess maybe GPOTUNING is the better solution or maybe the volkswagon dealership here in town .

    All else fail I'm headed to Alabama...


    Audi Downtown Nashville | Audi Dealership in Nashville
    https://www.audinashville.com/downtown.htm


    Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

  37. #37
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 12 2023
    AZ Member #
    907320
    Location
    UAE

    how is the test supposed to "sound" like? In my 2018 Rs6 it is a single buzz (brrr), that lasts less than a second. Each left and right equally loud "fart" and that's all... no matter if I keep "testing" or not.

    The reason I'm testing it is because my car has become very "jerky" in S mode - not rough, but annoying (especially gas response - just became unpleasant when shifting load front to back), so naturally my first suspect would be to look at these engine mounts...

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 19 2018
    AZ Member #
    420922
    My Garage
    21 Jeep Gladiator / 05 Tahoe Z71
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by was003 View Post
    how is the test supposed to "sound" like? In my 2018 Rs6 it is a single buzz (brrr), that lasts less than a second. Each left and right equally loud "fart" and that's all... no matter if I keep "testing" or not.

    The reason I'm testing it is because my car has become very "jerky" in S mode - not rough, but annoying (especially gas response - just became unpleasant when shifting load front to back), so naturally my first suspect would be to look at these engine mounts...
    If I recall right, a vibrating sound is what you want to hear. If it was bad, it would essentially make little to no noise - seemingly what you are describing. Also, if you had a bad motor mount and to double check, you'd have a DTC that you should see when running a full scan
    2013 Q7 / Prestige / Mugello Blue Pearl

    2014 S7 Phantom Black on Black / B&O / DS1 ECU Stage 2 / SRM TCU tune / RS7 Inlets & Airbox / JXB Carrier / 034 Drivetrain Inserts / Cooling mods coming - SOLD

    2016 A6 3.0T / Premium + / Glacier White on Black / S-line / Sport Package w/ 20" wheels / No Mods - TOTALED

  39. #39
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 12 2023
    AZ Member #
    907320
    Location
    UAE

    no DTCs... but buzz is fairly short and - as you mentioned - silent on both ends. I did run a few tests to confirm (essentially gently building the revs on S while holding the brake just to see engine trying to jump out of the engine bay gave me the confidence I'm onto something), I'm 99% positive it's time to do the mounts...

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 19 2018
    AZ Member #
    420922
    My Garage
    21 Jeep Gladiator / 05 Tahoe Z71
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by was003 View Post
    no DTCs... but buzz is fairly short and - as you mentioned - silent on both ends. I did run a few tests to confirm (essentially gently building the revs on S while holding the brake just to see engine trying to jump out of the engine bay gave me the confidence I'm onto something), I'm 99% positive it's time to do the mounts...
    For future reference, if you don't put the car in neutral to rev, you are essentially burning up your clutchpacks. This is specific to the Dual Clutch gearbox. Even revving it in P is a bad idea. ALWAYS rev in N
    2013 Q7 / Prestige / Mugello Blue Pearl

    2014 S7 Phantom Black on Black / B&O / DS1 ECU Stage 2 / SRM TCU tune / RS7 Inlets & Airbox / JXB Carrier / 034 Drivetrain Inserts / Cooling mods coming - SOLD

    2016 A6 3.0T / Premium + / Glacier White on Black / S-line / Sport Package w/ 20" wheels / No Mods - TOTALED

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