Touch-up paint recommendations

[SHCKR]

Either me or the wife decided it would be a good idea to use the rear bumper as a scratch pad while loading the stroller.... Either way, looking for touch up paint recommendations (ibis white), and purchase location. I know there are pens and bottles, which ones have you used, and which ones work? I had the pens for my GTI and they didn't work with a damn.
About to ceramic coat the car, would like to fix it before I coat over it.

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[crhh95]

those look like they might be able to buff out, cant really tell if it penetrated the paint, but if its just a scuff try buffing it out. i ran into my garage one long night in the G, sure enough it was just a scuff that buffed out.

[SleeperCar]

I used dr color chip on my previous a4 and they have specific Audi colors (mine was scuba blue metallic). It worked and color was accurate, however, if you looked closely you could still see where it was touched up. Depends on what your expectations are with touch ups, if you want perfect, you’ll need a shop to do it as they will sand, paint, blend, and clear coat which obviously costs a lot more.

[A665]

Definitely see if you can compound or polish some or all of that out first. I always suggest Meguiars Ultimate Compound because it's inexpensive, easy to use and very broadly available...but you may already have your own favorite.

[SHCKR]

It's definitely down to the plastic, so no buffing. I understand it won't be perfect, just don't want dark spots, so it's pretty much down to what works best to fill in the scratches, paint stick or brush can

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[scsu]

Automotive Touch-Up brand has worked well for me on Ibis and glacier. I've used both their brush and spray products with great success. In particular I like the way it sands.

It's definitely down to the plastic, so no buffing. I understand it won't be perfect, just don't want dark spots, so it's pretty much down to what works best to fill in the scratches, paint stick or brush can

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[ywang98]

I bought my touch up paint from the dealership. It's two pen like sticks, one for the color, and the other one for the clear coat. It's the same for all of my VW AG cars. Works ok for small chips.

[NC_Detail_Garage]

best advice I can give is to limit the paint to just enough to cover all the black showing through then use multiple layers of clear. Use a heat gun if you have it to help w/ the drying of the clear in between layers. Build up enough clear so that it crowns the bumper and get some 2500-3500 sand paper to gently wet sand down the hump in the newly added clear. Mind you this is a several day process as you want the clear fully dried. Then compound/polish to remove the sanding marks. Your goal should be the 5-7 foot test. Oh, and sand first to remove any paint edges before applying the tough up.

[SHCKR]

Automotive Touch-Up brand has worked well for me on Ibis and glacier. I've used both their brush and spray products with great success. In particular I like the way it sands.

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Thank you, just ordered some, as factory pen from the dealer didn't work worth a damn on my GTI, and dried up super quick making it a one-time use

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[Wikkidtt]

This is what I’ve been using and have been very happy.

https://colorndrive.com/?gclid=EAIaI...SAAEgIsjvD_BwE



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[crhh95]

Does that come with a clear coating to put on top of it? i cant really tell from reading..the page.

Also since were on the paint topic, i believe that my car is Glacier Metallic...but then again I bought it CPO so I'm not 100%. Here's a picture at the dealer for reference. Is this the Ibis or glacier?

s4.jpgs43.jpg

[electron bom]

Does that come with a clear coating to put on top of it? i cant really tell from reading..the page.

Also since were on the paint topic, i believe that my car is Glacier Metallic...but then again I bought it CPO so I'm not 100%. Here's a picture at the dealer for reference. Is this the Ibis or glacier?

s4.jpgs43.jpg

IIRC the paint code can be found on the information sticker in the trunk space, usually in the spare tire compartment.
Glacier white metallic code: 2Y2Y
Ibis White code: T9T9

[crhh95]

IIRC the paint code can be found on the information sticker in the trunk space, usually in the spare tire compartment.
Glacier white metallic code: 2Y2Y
Ibis White code: T9T9

bingo thank you.

[SHCKR]

best advice I can give is to limit the paint to just enough to cover all the black showing through then use multiple layers of clear. Use a heat gun if you have it to help w/ the drying of the clear in between layers. Build up enough clear so that it crowns the bumper and get some 2500-3500 sand paper to gently wet sand down the hump in the newly added clear. Mind you this is a several day process as you want the clear fully dried. Then compound/polish to remove the sanding marks. Your goal should be the 5-7 foot test. Oh, and sand first to remove any paint edges before applying the tough up.

Could I bother you for some step by step clarification? So I got this stuff (see picture) and I barely touched up the marks with paint only, and to be honest, it looks like shit.
My question is, when, how, and what do I sand. It seems it will be really hard to sand just the scratches, therefore I'm afraid I'll cause more damage than what's currently present. I can feel that the applied paint is higher than the factory paint, which makes me think that I should sand that down, then apply clear?


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[Jetta03]

I've had good experience with Touch Up direct and of course with the audi branded touch up paint you'd get at the dealership. You'll want to fill the chip in with multiple light coats and then when dry hit it with a really mild abrasive like Scratch-X. If you are careful you can make it almost invisible.
Cheers

[scottytahoe]

At about min 4 he goes into good detail of how to work on small scratches.

https://youtu.be/Uz-zW-cLdUs

[SHCKR]

That's a really nifty trick, however it doesn't cover sanding or clear coating

[Jetta03]

Good points, but remember as soon as you get into heavy compounds or sanding you run the risk of working through the existing clear coat and making your problem worse. An inexperienced person can easily ruin a panel aiming for the 'perfect' touch up so please be very careful. The touch up tool in the video was great though, just ordered a couple of them :)

Cheers

[SHCKR]

Good points, but remember as soon as you get into heavy compounds or sanding you run the risk of working through the existing clear coat and making your problem worse. An inexperienced person can easily ruin a panel aiming for the 'perfect' touch up so please be very careful. The touch up tool in the video was great though, just ordered a couple of them :)

Cheers

That's my biggest fear

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[SHCKR]

best advice I can give is to limit the paint to just enough to cover all the black showing through then use multiple layers of clear. Use a heat gun if you have it to help w/ the drying of the clear in between layers. Build up enough clear so that it crowns the bumper and get some 2500-3500 sand paper to gently wet sand down the hump in the newly added clear. Mind you this is a several day process as you want the clear fully dried. Then compound/polish to remove the sanding marks. Your goal should be the 5-7 foot test. Oh, and sand first to remove any paint edges before applying the tough up.

Planning on doing this tomorrow. Got the paint pen thingie from the video above, got some 1000,1500,2000,2500 grit sandpaper, and the touch up paint and clear mentioned above.
I plan on first using the 1000 to sand down my initial touch up attempt, then using that paint tool to finely fill in the scratches, then letting dry (I do have a heat gun, how hot should I set it for?). Then hitting it with 1500, 2000, and 2500. Then do a layer of clear, and then sand with 2000 and 2500 again. Thoughts?

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[NC_Detail_Garage]

I'd start w/ 2500 as 1000 is way to aggressive for factory clear.

While the process sounds straightforward, the end result will never match a respray. Keep expectations in check. Slight color differences will show and leveling the paint are the biggest obstacles. Keep adding paint until the black is fully covered but it won't take much at all since the scratches appear to be very shallow. I'd focus on the paint step as you may end up just sanding off any clear you add given you're trying to cover a black bumper shell w/ white paint.

Just be careful with the sanding as there is a finite amount of clear available and I'm assuming you don't have a means to measure the thickness. You will be sanding the surrounding areas as you attempt to knock down the fresh paint/clear to match.

2500 will leave sanding marks that will need to be finish polished. Do you have a machine or just doing it by hand?

[SHCKR]

I'd start w/ 2500 as 1000 is way to aggressive for factory clear.

While the process sounds straightforward, the end result will never match a respray. Keep expectations in check. Slight color differences will show and leveling the paint are the biggest obstacles. Keep adding paint until the black is fully covered but it won't take much at all since the scratches appear to be very shallow. I'd focus on the paint step as you may end up just sanding off any clear you add given you're trying to cover a black bumper shell w/ white paint.

Just be careful with the sanding as there is a finite amount of clear available and I'm assuming you don't have a means to measure the thickness. You will be sanding the surrounding areas as you attempt to knock down the fresh paint/clear to match.

2500 will leave sanding marks that will need to be finish polished. Do you have a machine or just doing it by hand?

Hand polish, I don't trust myself with machines . Should I get something else before I start, such as finer sandpaper? And I have a bottle of clear and a bottle of paint, looks to be plenty enough.

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[NC_Detail_Garage]

Hand polish, I don't trust myself with machines . Should I get something else before I start, such as finer sandpaper? And I have a bottle of clear and a bottle of paint, looks to be plenty enough.

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You could get 3500 and/or 5000 to further refine the 2500 scratches before compounding and polishing.

[SHCKR]

You could get 3500 and/or 5000 to further refine the 2500 scratches before compounding and polishing.

Ok, so far I sanded with 2500 (you can see where there's no more clear), then used the fine paint pen to fill the scratches. Obviously too much paint, letting it dry, then will sand with 2500, and try to get smooth. Then will clear using supplied brush, let dry, and sand with 3500 and 5000... How does that sound?
Photos should be in sequential before-after order.

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[SHCKR]

Sanded down the touch up paint and smeared a ton of clear on there, hoping it will sand down smooth when dry. Will then hit with 5000 and polishing compound (not together) and like 10 layers of ceramic coating. Will see what happens.

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[crhh95]

is yours glacier white? i can never tell until the two whites are next to each other

[SHCKR]

Ibis white.

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[SHCKR]

Here it is after I sanded the clear and compounded. To be honest, I don't see any difference from before. I might have filled in a bit of the scratches, but when sanding it down to smooth, I partially exposed them again. Overall, might not have been worth the trouble.

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