high pressure fuel pump replacement on 3.2

[titua1915]

Car can barely run, it shuts off multiple times on startup until i can rev to keep it on. i got multiple misfires on many cylinders and also fuel lean codes and fuel pressure regulator short to plus p2296 and last week it was p2294. Decided to order a hpfp assuming is that pump is shot because i had that same code on my q7 and it was the hpfp. any insight?



Question #2. I need this car fixed asap, had to order an aftermarket high pressure fuel pump the spectra premium fi1503. stainless steel. OE. Any experience with aftermarket hpfp? would this work correctly?

[titua1915]

readings say

Fuel injection (Fuel Pump Adaptation)
Fuel Pressure Regulator : 4.9%

Fuel Supply System
Fuel Pressure Regulator 31.74 bar
Rail Pressure regulator 0

Pressure Control Valve
Pressure Control Valve
Duty Cycle 100.0%

Pressure Control Valve
Rail Pressure (specified) 35.00 bar
3.92 bar
Inactive

Current Fuel Pressure 5.97 bar
Fuel Pressure Regulator 4.4 %
Fuel pump adapt status: off

[titua1915]

so far Ive swapped LPFP, HPFP, Fuel filter, Low Pressure Fuel Switch, and still got P2296 (SHORT TO PLUS), P1138 (SYSTEM TOO LEAN SHORT WITH POWER)BANK 2, P1136 ( SYSTEM TOO LEAN SHORT WITH POWER) BANK 1.

[titua1915]

no one here in the forum helped, just in case someone needs help, it was indeed my hpfp that was bad, it took 2 replacements to get it working. the first one was aftermarket spectra premium, pure garbage it did not work, made me wasted a whole bunch of money and time in the shop swapping parts thinking it was something else since i had already put in new pump which never worked. after buying original oem problem fixed. I went from ecu, to lpfp, sensors, and no fix till i bought original oem. lesson learned, dont use aftermarket hpfp it may not work.took almost two months to figure this out.

p2296 = equals bad hpfp, but what happens when you replace that and problem its still there? you start going crazy replacing fuel parts. i did lpfp, lp fuel sensor, hp fuel sensor, fuel filter, put in used ecu assuming my ecu was shorted, checked wiring, and mechanic came to conclusion the hpfp i ordered was defective. what a waste of money and time this aftermarket hpfp caused me. It was a spectra premium fi1503 that caused the headache. after all of this i purchased an oem hpfp problem fixed.

[JohnnyB]

no one here in the forum helped, just in case someone needs help, it was indeed my hpfp that was bad, it took 2 replacements to get it working.

Thanks for the update.

Forum traffic is slowing down. I guess that is normal as car models age.


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[estomax]

what a painful journey, thanks for documenting and updating though! i have a 3.2 also so this will be good to know if it pops up.

Marko

[mhuerta87]

I'm in the same problem. Difference is I replaced hpfh with Hitachi hp0003. Both low and high fuel pressure sensor. Replaced the fuel filter with a mann. Replaced the in tank fuel pump with VDO and I still getting p2296 and P0087. Can start my own post yet

[hhegedus]

I'm in the same problem. Difference is I replaced hpfh with Hitachi hp0003. Both low and high fuel pressure sensor. Replaced the fuel filter with a mann. Replaced the in tank fuel pump with VDO and I still getting p2296 and P0087. Can start my own post yet

Did you figure out what the problem was? My son's 2008 A6 3.2l is starting hard and idling very rough. No power until car warms up then OK until fully cooled down. The problem is inconsistent and seems more likely to happen as the temp drops. He has the same two codes (P2296 & P0087) plus many misfire codes on multiple cylinders, which is expected.

[Avantly]

FYI 50% of the time the HPFP quantity adjuster solenoid (which is what fails on these pumps, the pump itself is usually fine) will kill the ECM output for the quantity adjuster. So you need to get a junkyard ECM and clone your original ECM to it as well as replacing the HPFP. I will only use Hitachi HPFP, as OP mentioned, the aftermarket chinesium ones are absolute trash.

[G-Can]

guys, I have the weirdest problem. All my pumps/filters were replaced, but problem persists and it doesnt throw any codes.

what happens is, If the car is completelly cold - it starts perfect.
If you drove it, and restarted it within 15-20min - starts perfectly

BUT - if it sits after driving for about 45min or so - it just cranks or stutters to turn on. Have to pump the gas pedal for it to start, If I dont do that, then I have to turn it off, start again, maybe will start from second attempt, sometimes takes 3 times.

It is directly connected with engine or coolant temperature. It is especially annoying now in winter when engine temp drops quick due to ambient temp. It pretty much wont start if its not cooled down completely.
I did replace coolant sensor with OEM audi.

There are NO CODES, its been doing this for 5 years and no one seems to get what it is.

[King_Tutt]

Do you have VCDS? If you do log the pressures at the HPFP and LPFP, curious it if it bleeding off somewhere

[G-Can]

Do you have VCDS? If you do log the pressures at the HPFP and LPFP, curious it if it bleeding off somewhere

I do have it, some chinse knockoff, but it works, used it to read Block93 values, thats about it.

How/where do I see that? What values should I be looking at?

[King_Tutt]

I am going off memory so this might be wrong until I get time to look at my own car. Group 230 & 231 should show actual fuel pressure and maybe requested, will also show duty cycle on fuel pump. Here is a video showing someone else doing it.

[Avantly]

After the car has soaked to ambient temperature, preferably overnight, check the coolant temperature sensor readings in VCDS and compare. They should be very close to ambient. Temp sensor failure is common for this sensor style and when the sensor fails(drifts) the typical first symptom is hard-starting with a warm/hot engine. You could also try doing basic settings on the throttle body as this will sometimes not throw a code if its adaptation is slightly off.

[G-Can]

After the car has soaked to ambient temperature, preferably overnight, check the coolant temperature sensor readings in VCDS and compare. They should be very close to ambient. Temp sensor failure is common for this sensor style and when the sensor fails(drifts) the typical first symptom is hard-starting with a warm/hot engine. You could also try doing basic settings on the throttle body as this will sometimes not throw a code if its adaptation is slightly off.

when the car is off, do you know where exaactly to see this in VCDS? (coolaant temp)
Ill scan in the morning, but I haave aalrready erplaced coolaant sensor with OEM.
Whaat aare the ods of new one being faulty. Also, throttle body was readapted multiple times.
It only does this when car is cooled down haalf waay, when the coolan neddle is aat half way to operating temp.

[Duday]

How do you clone an ECM? Can it be done with VagCom?

[Duday]

FYI 50% of the time the HPFP quantity adjuster solenoid (which is what fails on these pumps, the pump itself is usually fine) will kill the ECM output for the quantity adjuster. So you need to get a junkyard ECM and clone your original ECM to it as well as replacing the HPFP. I will only use Hitachi HPFP, as OP mentioned, the aftermarket chinesium ones are absolute trash.

How do you clone an ECM? Can you do it with VagCom software?

[sswari]

How do you clone an ECM? Can it be done with VagCom?

No, this is not something that VCDS can do. There are a few places online that claim they can do it.

[Avantly]

There are quite a few china clone tools that you can clone these simos 6.22 ECU's with. I imagine you can probably get a Ktag clone off of amazon/ebay for under a hundred bucks nowadays. With the china clone kess/ktag you need to fix the checksum dll's with dll's from the forums and then you can clone that ECU easily.