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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Working on some 3D printed parts for my allroad.

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    I've been making my own parts that I can't find(or want to pay for) for my allroad. A few months ago I modified an available file found online for suspension arms. They were advertised as the longest arms that can be used on allroads but I didn't need the longest throw, so I modified it 10mm higher. Printed in ABS.





    They were awesome but after a while I started to not like the "softness" of the lowered stock suspension.

    In comes Airlift Performance;



    Got a used C5 kit from a buddy. and an Airlift Performance V2 management.

    Modelled a V2 controller mount and used my panavise phone mount;



    after a couple of prints and modifications I got one that works, I make a lot of test prints that are not as solid as the final piece to save on filament

    This one was too small as you can see when controller is installed.



    This I believe was the 3rd print





    Works great. Printed in PETG for heat resistance



    I finally installed the air ride and realized the car is too low in the rear. Fronts are exactly where I want them, think Level 3 at 100 PSI. The rear needs to be raised around 40mm to be where I want it. No pics of the car at height, I thought I took some but I guess not. I'll take some when I get a chance. Forgive my dirty ass car. Wheels are 19x9.5 et40 on 23mm spacers, final offset +17. Tires are allroad size 255/40/19, might go with some 18x10s here soon.



    My buddy said it wasn't low enough because my mudflaps weren't touching.

    The rear is too low so I started modelling some spacers to raise it;



    That's where I'm at. I'm debating printing these solid because that would make it a 32 hour print. I might print it as a shell, mold it, and cast it in urethane.

    Thanks for reading.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 10 2013
    AZ Member #
    134985
    Location
    Borden, Ontario, Canada

    I'd take some level arms if you're willing to print up a set

    Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    I'd take some level arms if you're willing to print up a set

    Sent from my SM-G9600 using Tapatalk
    send me a pm

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 24 2017
    AZ Member #
    396204
    Location
    Kansas City KS

    That's awesome love seeing new tech being used to keep these old beasts running.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Printed a hollow test piece and found it wasn't 100%.



    The mounting holes aren't at the center of the shaft hole(hehe).



    I modified the file and am printing a second test piece now. I am leaning more towards the molding and casting in urethane idea, any thoughts?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    WNY

    Working on some 3D printed parts for my allroad.

    As an avid 3D printing enthusiast I’m all for 3D printing stuff especially car stuff (duh). But I don’t think plastic would be a suitable material for that spacer. I’m assuming the spacer would sit between the shock and the car body? I think you’d have issues with the mount compressing over time and then getting loose and causing clunks, even at 100% infill. Would be better to get them milled out of aluminum. There are a few online services that can do that if you send them a part file, or maybe even a machine shop that’s local could do it. Although the cost with that might be prohibitive

    What printer do you run, just out of curiosity?

    Also, idk what you use for measuring parts when you’re reverse engineering stuff, but even a cheap pair of digital calipers makes it a lot easier.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    As an avid 3D printing enthusiast I’m all for 3D printing stuff especially car stuff (duh). But I don’t think plastic would be a suitable material for that spacer. I’m assuming the spacer would sit between the shock and the car body? I think you’d have issues with the mount compressing over time and then getting loose and causing clunks, even at 100% infill. Would be better to get them milled out of aluminum. There are a few online services that can do that if you send them a part file, or maybe even a machine shop that’s local could do it. Although the cost with that might be prohibitive

    What printer do you run, just out of curiosity?

    Also, idk what you use for measuring parts when you’re reverse engineering stuff, but even a cheap pair of digital calipers makes it a lot easier.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I already stated that they aren't going to be made of plastic, the 3d print is only for the mold. I might have them cut from delrin or aluminum but I want to make them out of urethane for now, as I've seen truck levelling kits made from it before with no problems.

    I actually have micro measuring tools, that spacer was literally modelled in 5 minutes as a test piece. I run a few printers, this one was a CR-10S. I also have a couple of S4s and an S5.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    WNY

    Quote Originally Posted by j0wE View Post
    I already stated that they aren't going to be made of plastic, the 3d print is only for the mold. I might have them cut from delrin or aluminum but I want to make them out of urethane for now, as I've seen truck levelling kits made from it before with no problems.

    I actually have micro measuring tools, that spacer was literally modelled in 5 minutes as a test piece. I run a few printers, this one was a CR-10S. I also have a couple of S4s and an S5.
    I just have missed that. My bad. I was going off your earlier post about doing them 100% infill or cast in urethane. Urethane would probably be the better low cost option.

    Oh cool, just have an Ultimaker 2+ at the moment, lol. Hoping to add more soon lol
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Oh cool, just have an Ultimaker 2+ at the moment, lol. Hoping to add more soon lol
    Look into the CR10S, it's a great machine.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings Calif_Kid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 14 2006
    AZ Member #
    12545
    My Garage
    2001 A6 6 spd, 2001.5 AWE stage3 Nogaro 6-speed (sold), 2000 Honda Civic racecar (sold)
    Location
    Sunnyvale, Calif

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    There are a few online services that can do that if you send them a part file, or maybe even a machine shop that’s local could do it. Although the cost with that might be prohibitive
    At work, we've used '3D Hubs' online service to 3D print quite a few plastic parts, and their price has been very good, and the quality is usually pretty good, but I don't think you can control who does the actual print. They offer 3D printing, but also CNC machining, and other services, so if you have the part (as a step, STL, or other 3D model type), then you can see what their price would be for CNC machining the part. We've only used them for a few CNC machined small aluminum parts, and I'm not sure how their price compares to just going down to a local machine shop with the part file or drawing. - Jim

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    WNY

    Quote Originally Posted by j0wE View Post
    Look into the CR10S, it's a great machine.
    Will do. Crazy how much better budget machines have gotten over the years.

    Quote Originally Posted by Calif_Kid View Post
    At work, we've used '3D Hubs' online service to 3D print quite a few plastic parts, and their price has been very good, and the quality is usually pretty good, but I don't think you can control who does the actual print. They offer 3D printing, but also CNC machining, and other services, so if you have the part (as a step, STL, or other 3D model type), then you can see what their price would be for CNC machining the part. We've only used them for a few CNC machined small aluminum parts, and I'm not sure how their price compares to just going down to a local machine shop with the part file or drawing. - Jim
    Yep! There are a few different places that will make 3D printed parts or even metal parts. Shapeways is one I've heard about, along with Xometry for stuff like CNC machining among other services. I'll have to check out 3D Hubs though. I would imagine their small part pricing is similar to a local machine shop since they would run into the same issue of needing to set up their machines for a low volume of parts which means higher cost per piece compared to a high volume run of parts.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    70185
    My Garage
    C5 Allroad, MK1 Rabbit 4 door, Harley Dyna FXDP
    Location
    915

    Quote Originally Posted by Calif_Kid View Post
    At work, we've used '3D Hubs' online service to 3D print quite a few plastic parts, and their price has been very good, and the quality is usually pretty good, but I don't think you can control who does the actual print. They offer 3D printing, but also CNC machining, and other services, so if you have the part (as a step, STL, or other 3D model type), then you can see what their price would be for CNC machining the part. We've only used them for a few CNC machined small aluminum parts, and I'm not sure how their price compares to just going down to a local machine shop with the part file or drawing. - Jim

    Funny you should mention that, i have done some work for 3D hubs. Their way of handling their business changed drastically and there were problems with payments towards their contractors so I stopped doing commissions for them. I have quotes for machining them out of both delrin and aluminum, I just don't want to pay for the single part setup fee, which is more than what the actual parts would be. I wish I knew someone with a hobby cnc machine.

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