so apparently my turbo needs it's wastegate adjusted

[beantownb8.5]

Finally got the message from IE regarding my turbo issues ive posted about before- I reviewed all these logs and I can't find a moment where boost drops. You're actually overboosting a little bit, this may be caused by wastegate that is too tight but I would suspect that the car has a hybrid or K04 and I would take a moment to review the turbo and make sure it is, in fact, a stock K03 turbo. If it is a stock K03 I would make sure that the wastegate is adjusted properly and someone didn't overtighten it. The only other thing I could see causing this would be the wastegate stuck shut, I would verify that it operates correctly. If this is a K04 turbo car it's very common for the compressor surge while spooling to loud and normal for those turbos

What I suspect is happening is that you're overboosting too much and then the throttle body starts to close to combat this and sorta causes the engine computer to go into a temporary limp mode. I wish there was a sample in one of these data logs of it happening so I could confirm.

---I definitely dont have an upgraded turbo... I bought this car with 29K miles and it has a stock cat and intercooler- if it was an upgraded turbo, it literally looks exactly the same as every other stock turbo on every other A4 ive ever seen. IE obviously states that they think the wastegate needs adjustment. Unfortunately I dont know enough to do it myself.

I contacted a local tuner who said the job would take a while. drop the downpipe, make adjustments, test, rinse and repeat.... at $120/hour

im starting to think that maybe getting a used/refurb turbo would be easier than having to do this crap, plus at 55k miles couldnt hurt seeing as how theyre going for 3-400.

Any thoughts?

[Stazi]

Check this thread first:https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...lapper-(P0299)

Make sure you don't have a leaking wastegate.

Any CEL's? What is the EXACT code?

If it is indeed overboosting, you may have a bad hose(s) to the wastegate or the boost controller that is leaking; if so, the boost controller is unable to open the wastegate fast enough to combat the overboost.

[beantownb8.5]

zero CEL or codes. never had anything electronic notify me about this issue, even checked error codes using IE's software, none came up

[Smac770]

The stock actuator opens at 4psi boost and is fully open at 10.5psi boost, and should see about 10-12mm travel. Pull the vacuum tube off the actuator and hook up a hand pressure gauge/pump and see what it does.

Is this an IE tune? Are they not adjusting the management of the N249 and N75, both of which are ECU controlled electronically. The ECU can see overboost via the MAP, and can dump boost via the N249 and/or N75. I don't know jack about engine management, but it seems like overboost should be easily avoidable.

As you're not stock, if you're digging into the actuator itself, you might look into one of those Forge adjustable replacements. But replacing the turbo seems overkill. But as stock, what exactly is this local tuner expecting to adjust? Going to start hacking on things or bending things?

[whats77inaname]

But as stock, what exactly is this local tuner expecting to adjust? Going to start hacking on things or bending things?

The rod end of the WG has an adjustment piece that allows you to adjust the preload, so he's probably going to hork with that.

OP, ah, so these are the wastegate issues you're PMed me about? Now I have a point of reference

If it's the WG.....the turbo pretty much has to come off to get to the wastegate. There are stories about a guy that was able to do it w/out removing the turbo, but as many times as I had to adjust my setup to get it right, separating the turbo from the head was easiest and fastest. Using hand tools, I can pretty much get it done in 45-50 mins, so if he's a tuner with experience, he should be able to do about the same. The good part is that the oil/coolant lines don't have to come off at all. With that being said, this looks exactly like our WG and is sold by Mambatek for $75 https://www.ebay.com/itm/262901574072 but I'm not sure of the break pressure. If it's the standard 4-5psi, you're good. Alternative is using the adjustable Mambatek with the white 5psi spring https://shop.mambatek.com/Turbo-Wast...6-023-0200.htm They're $119 on eBay.

A bit of add'l info: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post13768508

[Smac770]

Not on the B8 IHI turbo. I assume that was on the B7 Borg turbo (it's in the repair manual, so I assume they just carried over that text without realizing it didn't apply).
If there is a preload adjustment mechanism on the IHI, it would be nice to know.

[whats77inaname]

Not on the B8 IHI turbo. I assume that was on the B7 Borg turbo (it's in the repair manual, so I assume they just carried over that text without realizing it didn't apply).
If there is a preload adjustment mechanism on the IHI, it would be nice to know.

You are correct. Those having loose WG flappers have to actually cut the rod, no?

[bb-tt]

You are correct. Those having loose WG flappers have to actually cut the rod, no?

Yes there are several posts here and on the vcds forums how to modify the rod to make it adjustable.

[Smac770]

Yeah, there's a thread here where the guy fixed his loose waste gate by removing the actuator, chopping the arm and threading the ends and putting a union (turn buckle?) that he could turn to adjust the arm length.
But as I posted a pic in maybe that thread or another, the problem is the pin on the actuator arm is actually wearing the hole in the waste gate arm larger. Eventually, it's just going to wear through and you'll have to replace the waste gate assembly in the turbo itself (or know how to weld).

[daughtersA4]

Its very possible to have a loose WG and decreased boost and not throwing a code. I just did the rod mod on my A4 and in my case I heard the WG rattle long before I got the P0299 code.

[bb-tt]

Its very possible to have a loose WG and decreased boost and not throwing a code. I just did the rod mod on my A4 and in my case I heard the WG rattle long before I got the P0299 code.

Mine was also loose with no code, my fix was to go k04.

[beantownb8.5]

Mine was also loose with no code, my fix was to go k04.

so you guys were able to identify a loose wastegate? were you literally able to move the rod and it was loose or had play?

[bb-tt]

so you guys were able to identify a loose wastegate? were you literally able to move the rod and it was loose or had play?

No rod was tight would not move , rattle, or have play. Logs were showing boost issues above 17 psi. Damon at ie suggested probably bad waste gate so I pulled the cat and confirmed. Although the rod had no play whatsoever I could spin the waste gate easily with one finger. Turbo was working hard enough that I didn't notice on stock tune but once I put the tune in it became obvious there were issues.

[Smac770]

So will you try a tunable actuator at this point to try and add more preload, or did you cut the rod shorter to get the waste gate pulled more tightly closed?

[OnyxCobra]

so you guys were able to identify a loose wastegate? were you literally able to move the rod and it was loose or had play?

If you have a little rattle you should be able to hear it just from revving the car in park. if that doesnt do it try driving along side a wall or something and let off the gas, you should hear it rattle. if you can remove the exhaust you can check by spinning the disc as mentioned.

[daughtersA4]

so you guys were able to identify a loose wastegate? were you literally able to move the rod and it was loose or had play?

Yes my wastegate was loose and rattling when moved by hand. I heard it rattling 6 months prior to throwing a code so I knew what I was dealing with. Power off the bottom was horrible until fixed. I believe my case was at the point of severe. The wastegate laid open an 1/8” inch by the time I got around to fixing it.

[daughtersA4]

So will you try a tunable actuator at this point to try and add more preload, or did you cut the rod shorter to get the waste gate pulled more tightly closed?

Cut the rod to make it shorter and then use a union to rejoin the two ends. Once you do that you have to do some analysis on applying proper wastegate pressure via the union adjuster. The rod mod is heavily documented here however the skill level for the job I would rate as “advanced” diy’er.