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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings bermudakid's Avatar
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    How to manually turn the crank to close valves?

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    Just like the title states how can you manually turn the crank to close valves on a 2.0t?

    Starting doing carbon cleaning myself and need to close the valves but my ratchet is too short to reach it, and my breaker bar is too thick to fit in the space with the socket on it.
    I just want to make sure there isn't another way to do it before I go out and try and get a shallow socket or a longer ratchet. I've searched but only found 1 diy that said jack the car up and do it from the bottom but I wont be able to jack the car up to get under it now.

    Also just to verify the bolt on the end of the crank is 24mm?
    2011 A4 6MT - APR Stage II - Bang & Olufsen Aftermarket Sub - Eurocode HFC + Alu Kruez - 034 Trans Mount - S4 Brakes
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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    I used a 1/2" ratchet with a regular 24mm socket. IT's tight but you can squeeze it in there. Easiest to do from underneath. Shouldn't be any reason you can jack up the front to access it.
    2012 Audi A4 2.0T S-Line
    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings MugelloB7RS4's Avatar
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    On my car, I just put the car in 6th gear and was able to rock it enough to close the valves. Worked like a charm

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings BrianVan's Avatar
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    Apr 03 2015
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    There was a Audizine member that posted a youtube vid that wit car in neutral, just two handed pulled\pushed the serpentine belt so it would turn the motor. It was small movement each push\pull, I thing he pushed down on it....like maybe an inch or 1/2 inch each push...but he did it...
    Be sure to pull the fuse for the fuel line as any ignition start\aux batt start or opening the driver door will "charge\prime" the fuel line if you have most of that apart, there are some vids with fuel spraying everywhere.
    And sorry...don't have the vid....i think one of the comments mentioned...Old man strength, or old guy strength....search for that it you may find the thread....
    2013 B8.5 A4 Quattro Auto| Ice Silver | RS4 Grill and Fogs | Painted Calipers Gunmetal | R1 Concept Rotors Drilled\Slotted | Ceramic Pads | Audi Puddle Lights | LED Interior Lights | RS4 Pedals | ECS Drivetrain Mounts |Luft-Technik Intake | Red Coil Paks | Plasti-Dip Rear Emblems | Carista | Spacers 12.5Front 25Rear | ST Coilovers | Ceramic Paint Protection | Lamin-X Tail Light Tint GunSmoke |

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
    I used a 1/2" ratchet with a regular 24mm socket. IT's tight but you can squeeze it in there. Easiest to do from underneath. Shouldn't be any reason you can jack up the front to access it.
    This is what I did, using a shallow 24mm socket. Was accessible from above.

    To add on to the OPs question, is the direction important for manually turning the engine over? I would think you want to go in the same direction the engine runs. I don't remember what that is.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    2012 Audi A4 S-Line, 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4, 2017 Moomba Craz
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    Looking from the front the engine needs to be rotated clockwise


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    2012 Audi A4 2.0T S-Line
    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings bermudakid's Avatar
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    Thanks guys I just need to get a longer ratchet and Shallow 24 mm, I'll be sure to disconnect the battery or pull the fuse too

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings bermudakid's Avatar
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    Hmm, I'll have to try this.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    Aug 27 2019
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    2012 Audi A4 S-Line, 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4, 2017 Moomba Craz
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    Quote Originally Posted by bermudakid View Post
    Thanks guys I just need to get a longer ratchet and Shallow 24 mm, I'll be sure to disconnect the battery or pull the fuse too
    Not necessary at all. Just leave the driver door closed after you pop the hood and don’t open it again until it’s all back together.


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    2012 Audi A4 2.0T S-Line
    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
    Not necessary at all. Just leave the driver door closed after you pop the hood and don’t open it again until it’s all back together.
    Pulling the fuse takes about 10 seconds and it is a nice way to prevent a bone-headed move (opening door) and have fuel shoot all over the engine bay. I would recommend doing this before starting the job. Even do it the night before to prevent the fuel pump from priming and increasing pressure in the lines before you disconnect the lines.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Jul 16 2018
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    "technically", the fuse should be irrelevant since the very first step in removing the intake manifold in the repair manual is "disconnect the battery ground cable".

    And before doing that, one should have released pressure in the high pressure rail by starting the engine, pulling the fuel pump control module fuse, turning the engine off as soon as the high pressure rail reads 800 kPA (and most definitely before it reaches 600 kPA or the engine might stall), and then immediately cracking the HPFP to HP line connection (so the pressure doesn't rebuild "due to post-heating", according to the repair manual).
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings bermudakid's Avatar
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    Nov 02 2010
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    2011 A4 6MT - APR Stage II - Bang & Olufsen Aftermarket Sub - Eurocode HFC + Alu Kruez - 034 Trans Mount - S4 Brakes
    "Forget the "line" Get the real S"
    Instagram TPR.Visuals
    B6 Totalled - RIP

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