Any Liqui Moly oil users?

[texadelphia]

Any of you guys running Liqui Moly engine oil? I switched from Total Quartz at my last oil change and it seems like my oil consumption just doubled. Anyone have a similar experience with it?

[oVeRdOsE]

Any of you guys running Liqui Moly engine oil? I switched from Total Quartz at my last oil change and it seems like my oil consumption just doubled. Anyone have a similar experience with it?

are you using the diesel one ? liqui moly leichtlauf 5w-40 ?

In fact, I read on srt-4 forums that this oil makes miracle on those oil problematic engine. NOTHING scientific tho, only user reports.
Same with bmw n54 engine.
I barely burn 1L on a 8000km oil change. I was around 1.5L on castrol edge. But again, nothing scientific and the errors are great : not the same driving behaviour, winter/summer condition etc. Anyway, I stick to liqui moly since I got it for cheap.

If you,re using the base liqui moly like the 4200, according to Project Farm youtube channel, this oil is not good at all. If I do remember, on his testing, amsoil was the best.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_mj8KDanKc

[griga]

I've had no problems with Liqui Moly.

[KJack]

I used Liqui-Moly once and didn’t notice any change (better or worse) in oil consumption from my usual Mobil 1 oil.

[Audibot]

I use Liqui-Moly on my 2.7T. Have used it on my B7 without issues either. I am contemplating using it on my TDI for its next oil change, but it's up between this and Motul.

Tex, I think I just read another post today about someone going from Motul to Liqui-Moly back to Motul b/c they went from burning nothing to burning 1 qt between fills.

[texadelphia]

I use Liqui-Moly on my 2.7T. Have used it on my B7 without issues either. I am contemplating using it on my TDI for its next oil change, but it's up between this and Motul.

Tex, I think I just read another post today about someone going from Motul to Liqui-Moly back to Motul b/c they went from burning nothing to burning 1 qt between fills.

Interesting. I think I'm going to try Pentosin next time around. My Golf always liked that stuff. Also considering dumping a can of the Liqui Moly engine flush in before the next change. On their website the product description talks about using it to remedy oil consumption on a B8. I don't have high hopes that it will do much but it can't hurt.

Sent from my moto x4 using Audizine mobile app

[Jay-Bee]

Interesting. I think I'm going to try Pentosin next time around. My Golf always liked that stuff. Also considering dumping a can of the Liqui Moly engine flush in before the next change. On their website the product description talks about using it to remedy oil consumption on a B8. I don't have high hopes that it will do much but it can't hurt.

Sent from my moto x4 using Audizine mobile app

Their pro-line engine flush is actually an awesome product, cleans a lot out i've seen some shop pics of before and after using a scope in the oil pan and valve cover. I sell a lot of LiquiMoly but only ran their oil recently in my new GTI, tons of 1.8T and 2.0T guys rave about it, and I have a lot of BMW customers that buy it religiously. I didn't notice anything special but I don't do UOAs.

They have over a dozen oil lines available with different specs and too many additives to name, Leichtlauf is the most common oil and it's for Diesel and Gas.

Castrol 0w40 goes down to 29$ at Canadian Tire and we have Rotella T6 on various specials throughout the year too, so i stick with those. LiquiMoly oil is nothing special IMO.

[oVeRdOsE]

what liqui are you using ? there's few blend available

[texadelphia]

what liqui are you using ? there's few blend available

Leichtlauf High Tech 5w-40

[Brillo]

As a research scientist I find this type of thread perplexing. Comments like "tons of 1.8T and 2.0T guys rave about it, and I have a lot of BMW customers that buy it religiously". Not to pick on Jay-Bee because he does go on to say "I didn't notice anything special but I don't do UOAs", but the type of commentary found in several of the posts is completely unhelpful. What is the basis upon which all these folks "rave" about LM? Their engines haven't destroyed themselves yet, it's quieter, I like the color? - All meaningless from a scientific standpoint. This is the same type of commentary you find in the 'highly venerated' Bob-is-the-oil-guy forum. When you look at the performance specs on Liqui-Moly it's not different or better than any other premium synthetic oil, and just because one company may make one product such as an additive or flush that performance demonstrably well, that doesn't mean their other products are any better than its competitor product. When I'm making an oil buy decision there are several things I look at: Noack volatility, the TBN, base polymer stock, and most importantly the high temperature film strength of the oil. The last factor is the most important parameter that is directly relatable to engine wear performance, and it is this characteristic where you find rather significant differences between oils, and Liqui-Moly doesn't perform particularly well on this test. Will you see a difference in long-term performance in your engine? Probably not. The other type of quantifiable and comparative testing I would like to see on engine oils is a systematic long-term UAO. That information is really hard to come by as is an actual engine break-down wear analysis. Short of this there is nothing stated in the posts above that would influence my oil buying decision, although cost is a factor that I can appreciate.

[oVeRdOsE]

As a research scientist I find this type of thread perplexing. Comments like "tons of 1.8T and 2.0T guys rave about it, and I have a lot of BMW customers that buy it religiously". Not to pick on Jay-Bee because he does go on to say "I didn't notice anything special but I don't do UOAs", but the type of commentary found in several of the posts is completely unhelpful. What is the basis upon which all these folks "rave" about LM? Their engines haven't destroyed themselves yet, it's quieter, I like the color? - All meaningless from a scientific standpoint. This is the same type of commentary you find in the 'highly venerated' Bob-is-the-oil-guy forum. When you look at the performance specs on Liqui-Moly it's not different or better than any other premium synthetic oil, and just because one company may make one product such as an additive or flush that performance demonstrably well, that doesn't mean their other products are any better than its competitor product. When I'm making an oil buy decision there are several things I look at: Noack volatility, the TBN, base polymer stock, and most importantly the high temperature film strength of the oil. The last factor is the most important parameter that is directly relatable to engine wear performance, and it is this characteristic where you find rather significant differences between oils, and Liqui-Moly doesn't perform particularly well on this test. Will you see a difference in long-term performance in your engine? Probably not. The other type of quantifiable and comparative testing I would like to see on engine oils is a systematic long-term UAO. That information is really hard to come by as is an actual engine break-down wear analysis. Short of this there is nothing stated in the posts above that would influence my oil buying decision, although cost is a factor that I can appreciate.

well, I ve posted the project farm guy video, this is a relevant info. I didn't re-watch the video , but he provides oil analysis, and he clearly repeat in few videos that phosphorus and zinc are good anti wear agent.

But this is not about this thread.

Here , we are more looking about viscosity in relationship with heat/time. Since test are hard to find on the net, OP opened a thread. Few home test that project farm did with a cooktop, but 2 hours is not a 2.0t running for hours and reach 5000 miles.
Put 0w10 in those engine and it will piss oil.

Yeah, most people wont see any difference if they sell the car @ 70 000miles, but those engine are ''fragile'' and b7 getting old.

having a good oil in a not so reliable old car, is a good thing.

the scientific method :
- observation - test iteration - documentation - . good luck to find this on 2.0t , even the engineer from vw didn't test this engine enough to get that the cam follower is an issue...

[Brillo]

OverDose I've seen the video you posted. Amusing but nothing particularly revealing. I don't know what statistical analyses he used but the differences are so slight as to be mealiness but I didn't notice a oil analysis (UOA) being performed. The one-arm bandit test is not well regarded as a relavent test method for assessing motor oils.

I was not suggesting that anyone put 0W-10 in their 2.0T nor was I suggesting the use of anything other than a premium synthetic oil that meets the VW 502 spec. I was the director of a tribology laboratory for 20 years. I understand lubrication and lubrication theory quite well, and understand the good and the bad of zinc and phosporous additives as well as other EP additives.

[A4_PimP]

As a research scientist I find this type of thread perplexing. Comments like "tons of 1.8T and 2.0T guys rave about it, and I have a lot of BMW customers that buy it religiously". Not to pick on Jay-Bee because he does go on to say "I didn't notice anything special but I don't do UOAs", but the type of commentary found in several of the posts is completely unhelpful. What is the basis upon which all these folks "rave" about LM? Their engines haven't destroyed themselves yet, it's quieter, I like the color? - All meaningless from a scientific standpoint. This is the same type of commentary you find in the 'highly venerated' Bob-is-the-oil-guy forum. When you look at the performance specs on Liqui-Moly it's not different or better than any other premium synthetic oil, and just because one company may make one product such as an additive or flush that performance demonstrably well, that doesn't mean their other products are any better than its competitor product. When I'm making an oil buy decision there are several things I look at: Noack volatility, the TBN, base polymer stock, and most importantly the high temperature film strength of the oil. The last factor is the most important parameter that is directly relatable to engine wear performance, and it is this characteristic where you find rather significant differences between oils, and Liqui-Moly doesn't perform particularly well on this test. Will you see a difference in long-term performance in your engine? Probably not. The other type of quantifiable and comparative testing I would like to see on engine oils is a systematic long-term UAO. That information is really hard to come by as is an actual engine break-down wear analysis. Short of this there is nothing stated in the posts above that would influence my oil buying decision, although cost is a factor that I can appreciate.

My problem is where does it stop? There are so many moving parts in the engine, so many chemicals, they all work with one another. As an example if you analyse the oil and you get a "good" one then which gas do you use? There are so many stations, so many octanes, most with ethanol some without. Then you pick a good gas but the station you go to the owner or whoever waters down the gas. You are ignorant to that fact when you put it in the car. It's a rabbit hole and for me I just put what I consider a good oil, the proper grade and do the oil changes at the proper interval. I don't worry much more than that just rather enjoy driving.

[texadelphia]

I was just curious if anyone saw consumption issues exacerbated by Liqui Moly. Wasn't trying to stir the "what's the best oil" hornet's nest.

[Jay-Bee]

As a research scientist I find this type of thread perplexing. Comments like "tons of 1.8T and 2.0T guys rave about it, and I have a lot of BMW customers that buy it religiously". Not to pick on Jay-Bee because he does go on to say "I didn't notice anything special but I don't do UOAs", but the type of commentary found in several of the posts is completely unhelpful. What is the basis upon which all these folks "rave" about LM? Their engines haven't destroyed themselves yet, it's quieter, I like the color? - All meaningless from a scientific standpoint. This is the same type of commentary you find in the 'highly venerated' Bob-is-the-oil-guy forum. When you look at the performance specs on Liqui-Moly it's not different or better than any other premium synthetic oil, and just because one company may make one product such as an additive or flush that performance demonstrably well, that doesn't mean their other products are any better than its competitor product. When I'm making an oil buy decision there are several things I look at: Noack volatility, the TBN, base polymer stock, and most importantly the high temperature film strength of the oil. The last factor is the most important parameter that is directly relatable to engine wear performance, and it is this characteristic where you find rather significant differences between oils, and Liqui-Moly doesn't perform particularly well on this test. Will you see a difference in long-term performance in your engine? Probably not. The other type of quantifiable and comparative testing I would like to see on engine oils is a systematic long-term UAO. That information is really hard to come by as is an actual engine break-down wear analysis. Short of this there is nothing stated in the posts above that would influence my oil buying decision, although cost is a factor that I can appreciate.

I've had comments like;

"Noticeable improvement in fuel mileage"
"Lowered oil temps by 6-7 degrees C during hard pulls"
"Zero oil consumption compared to XXX oil"

But I totally get where you are coming from, 15 years ago when i started owning and wrenching on VWs i was all over the Motul oil train for literally no reason other than it's a Race oil company. After geeking out on Bobistheoilguy forums and seeing how much time and effort people put into oil decisions i just ended up going for a middle margin of cost/quality/availability. Shit oils will give shit results, but any decent synthetic in the Xw40 weight with 502 approval will do just fine.

BTW Castrol 0w40 (Made in Germany or Belgium on the bottle) is one of the cheapest fully Group IV PAO oils for the price and has excellent specs.

[Audibot]

As a research scientist I find this type of thread perplexing.

And yet, here you are on a forum, which is full of anecdotal evidence and absolutely lacks scientific rigor, feeling the need to complain about said anecdotal evidence and lack of scientific rigor. Do you also complain about movies because they are not scientifically believable?

I was just curious if anyone saw consumption issues exacerbated by Liqui Moly. Wasn't trying to stir the "what's the best oil" hornet's nest.

I will say this: I personally have used Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Liqui-Moly, Motul, and Rotella in my B7, and really did not notice much of a difference in NVH, driving performance, mileage, etc. But did notice some differences in oil consumption. Rotella was the WORST, by far. 2 qt additions in 5k miles. Liqui-Moly and Motul were probably neck and neck with 1 qt addition in 5k miles (and getting low towards 5k). Castrol and Mobile 1 were in-between.

[texadelphia]

And yet, here you are on a forum, which is full of anecdotal evidence and absolutely lacks scientific rigor, feeling the need to complain about said anecdotal evidence and lack of scientific rigor. Do you also complain about movies because they are not scientifically believable?



I will say this: I personally have used Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Liqui-Moly, Motul, and Rotella in my B7, and really did not notice much of a difference in NVH, driving performance, mileage, etc. But did notice some differences in oil consumption. Rotella was the WORST, by far. 2 qt additions in 5k miles. Liqui-Moly and Motul were probably neck and neck with 1 qt addition in 5k miles (and getting low towards 5k). Castrol and Mobile 1 were in-between.

2qts in 5000 miles would be a dream. Haha.

[Brillo]

And yet, here you are on a forum, which is full of anecdotal evidence and absolutely lacks scientific rigor, feeling the need to complain about said anecdotal evidence and lack of scientific rigor. Do you also complain about movies because they are not scientifically believable?

It's anecdotal information but certainly not evidence. My participation on the forum is mainly informational and educational, in both directions. I always attempt to advance the state of knowledge for forum readers in areas where I have a particular expertise, always trying to be patient and helpful (and occasionally sarcastic). In most areas covered by the forum, I am happy to let others lend their knowledge and experiences, and greatly appreciate their efforts in trying to help out other members. The basis on which I select engine oils is well qualified in my post, based on measurable/quantifiable attributes which I think that helps the OP more than anecdote. If you prefer anecdotal information, that's your choice. If you read my posts I think you will find very little complaining. I fully understand the role of science in our world and can't remember ever assessing a movie based on its scientific rigor.

[texadelphia]

I take back what I said about my car consuming more oil with Liqui Moly. I don't think my driveway is level enough. Just checked it at the gas station and it was higher than when I checked it at home. Consumption is probably about the same with the new oil.

Sent from my moto x4 using Audizine mobile app

[EvolutionArmory]

The world needs more guys like Brillo. The guy gives solid advice EVERY time. 👍🏻👍🏻

It seems the only guys who say oil consumption is better with oil A VS oil B or is better if you use this oil additive are guys who sell oil A or guys who sell oil additives. 😀

If your car is burning oil, no one oil VS the other is going to fix the problem. A “better” lubricant isn’t going to correct a mechanical problem.

I use Total oil but only because the shop I take my car to uses it. If they used Liqui-Molly, I’d still bring it there. If I still did my own oil changes, I’d use Castrol because it’s good enough and I can get it real easy.

It’s just oil.

[Brillo]

Thanks EA. Appreciate your efforts here too.

[texadelphia]

The world needs more guys like Brillo. The guy gives solid advice EVERY time.

It seems the only guys who say oil consumption is better with oil A VS oil B or is better if you use this oil additive are guys who sell oil A or guys who sell oil additives.

If your car is burning oil, no one oil VS the other is going to fix the problem. A “better” lubricant isn’t going to correct a mechanical problem.

I use Total oil but only because the shop I take my car to uses it. If they used Liqui-Molly, I’d still bring it there. If I still did my own oil changes, I’d use Castrol because it’s good enough and I can get it real easy.

It’s just oil.

Makes sense. Just thought it was odd that my consumption seemed to jump and all that had changed was the oil I was using.

Sent from my moto x4 using Audizine mobile app

[XLR8 Craig]

Just wanted to chime in quick to see if I could provide some insight!

The Liqui Moly Leichtlauf is a high detergent oil, so it is designed to clean out any build up that may have occurred over the years (while still providing the proper lubrication). If you notice a change in consumption like this, after the first oil change, it is possible it has cleaned out some sludge in a passage way or some build up around the rings. If something was stuck in a good way, and was knocked loose, it could have a new spot to leak/loose oil.

You can try switching to a different oil (or changing it again) but if the above turns out to be the case it may be irreversible. The Leichtlauf meets all the required approvals and is a fully synthetic oil (that Liqui Moly actually recommends for those cars) so it's not like you simply put the wrong oil in.

While I definitely hope that is not the case, I do hope you are able to get it figured out and that helps a bit!

[megarex]

@texadelphia - lab testing your oils at every change is fun way to know your car. Practically, I don't think it matters all that much for us daily drivers - like Jay-Bee said "any decent synthetic in the Xw40 weight with 502 approval will do just fine." I ran any synthetic 502 oil in my last car and sold it at 200k mi still running fine with excellent compression.


@Brillo - you berate other users but provide a useless answer - seems hypocritical when you did not provide proper citation. Maybe we should all follow COPE guidelines on public auto forums.

When you look at the performance specs on Liqui-Moly it's not different or better than any other premium synthetic oil ... Liqui-Moly doesn't perform particularly well on this test.

Check out this data from independent tester:
Https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

[esandes]

I do friction testing every oil change by examining the cam follower condition after 5000 miles.

Using LM leichtlauf...the follower looked brand new. I'm currently testing fuchs titan 5w40.

My engine was rebuilt and fortunately hasn't consumed oil. My original engine ran one oil exclusively and the consumption gradually got worse. I should have sold it right when the low oil level message first displayed.

[TheChenga]

I went from Castrol Edge to Motul X-cess and oil consumption has increased noticeably!
You might have to try a few different oils to see what works best for your motor and doesn't burn as quick...

[Jay-Bee]

I do friction testing every oil change by examining the cam follower condition after 5000 miles.

lmfao sweet scientific level "testing" man, no hole in cam follower = awesome oil!!

And yes sell a car because of an oil light.

Everything you write is mind boggling and absurd.

[EvolutionArmory]

lmfao sweet scientific level "testing" man, no hole in cam follower = awesome oil!!

And yes sell a car because of an oil light.

Everything you write is mind boggling and absurd.

I should have saved the response I typed out and eventually deleted/didn’t post 🤣🤣

[esandes]

lmfao sweet scientific level "testing" man, no hole in cam follower = awesome oil!!

And yes sell a car because of an oil light.

Everything you write is mind boggling and absurd.

I don't need your approval. Neither does anyone else.

[Charles.waite]

I was just curious if anyone saw consumption issues exacerbated by Liqui Moly. Wasn't trying to stir the "what's the best oil" hornet's nest.

I've swapped between Rotella T6 and various castrol weights (all 502 approved, just depended what I could find when the oil level light popped) and never noticed a difference in consumption. This is over 40k miles burning 1qt/1400mi.

I've run Liquimoly and Motul in my Q5. It was oil and the car ran better with it than without it. *shrug*

I've heard a bit saying LiquiMoly is hype, thats its really not that special. Personally, I find their lineup confusing and their website does nothing to differentiate their various oils. Motul has a better reputation in Motorsport and their site is better and has more information more easily accessible. So I might switch to them eventually.

Or I'll stick with T6 and save $15 per oil change. I don't know.

[beefski]

Anyone use Amsoil?

[EvolutionArmory]

But Charles, what does “run better” actually mean and how is it measured?

Is it real or just placebo?

[Theiceman]

But Charles, what does “run better” actually mean and how is it measured?

Is it real or just placebo?

i think that was tongue in cheek that the car ran better with oil in it , than without oil in it :)

[Charles.waite]

^^ that. It was a lame ass joke haha.

A car will always run better/smoother with fresh oil vs. old oil.

That being said, if you get a 502 spec full synthetic you’re probably going to do just fine.

[aluthman]

My car also runs better with oil than without. I’m currently running Castrol Edge 0W-40 and will be sending a sample off to Blackstone soon, mostly because I have an irrational fear of fuel in my oil...

[Theiceman]

ahotboy15 tried to prove that his car would run really smooth without oil, and look how that turned out :)