USP metal clutch slave...

[Kenny147]

At 77k miles, I’ve started getting a heavy/sticky clutch whenever I do a high RPM run. After scanning the various threads, i know the metal clutch slave has remedied the issue for some but I’m prepared for the fact that may just end up being a new clutch job.

With that in mind, is the USP upgraded slave really worth it, or is it just a feel good thing to do?

[MugelloB7RS4]

It can't hurt. It seems like some guys have had good luck with bleeding the system or replacing the line with the steel one, however its tough to say. I would still venture a guess that it's the self adjusting mechanism causing the issue, however it's tough to say. The good thing with the metal line is that you can continue to use it even if its not the root cause.

[AA 954]

At 77k miles, I’ve started getting a heavy/sticky clutch whenever I do a high RPM run. After scanning the various threads, i know the metal clutch slave has remedied the issue for some but I’m prepared for the fact that may just end up being a new clutch job.

With that in mind, is the USP upgraded slave really worth it, or is it just a feel good thing to do?

It didn’t really do anything for me, the stickiness is still there so new cluth, fw, throw out bearing, fork, etc will need to go in .

A few others went a different route and stuck with the OEM Slave and just purchased the upgraded line from USP, if you also decide to go that route make sure its the line for the OEM Slave as they sell 2

[blubusdrvr]

Had the same "sticky pedal" and tried to flush and bleed the whole system to no avail. A few thousand miles later the clutch totally shit the bed. I replaced everything while I was in there to include JHM stage 3R, USP slave, mounts, etc. Runs like a champ now. I'm assuming it was the throwout bearing.

[Kenny147]

Thanks for the replies, gents. I just had a quote to replace the slave, flush and replace the brake/clutch fluid, as well as fit new DP’s and to honest, I might as well go ahead and do the entire clutch.

[ven0m]

Had sticky clutch since I first bought my car (5 years ago). Bleed clutch many times in between to no avail.

Swapped clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, USP slave with braided line, etc. Now clutch feels good as new. You can kick it around all day long on track and it won't stick anymore.

[AA 954]

Thanks for the replies, gents. I just had a quote to replace the slave, flush and replace the brake/clutch fluid, as well as fit new DP’s and to honest, I might as well go ahead and do the entire clutch.

How much were they quoting you?

The reality is if your doing the DP’s and later on the Clutch, the DP’s need to be removed again so theres shared labor costs that you can take advantage of.

For the usp slave and line there is no need to remove items and seems pretty straight forward, I think it was 300$ when I had that done.

Although there are a lot of posts about changing the clutch the one I’m attaching below is pretty fresh as it was posted recently, has some part numbers, etc.

If you do decide to change the clutch make sure you also include some maintenance items like the rear crankshaft seal and a coolant sensor as it’s all easillay accessible once the transmision is off.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...3&share_type=t

[Kenny147]

AA, I saw that post the same day my clutch pedal started getting intermittently heavy and did think it was somewhat ironic.

They wanted $1100 for the following..
Swap DP’s
Drain and replace transmission and diff fluid.
Fit new slave cylinder and replace/bleed the entire brake/clutch system.

It’s a well known, reputable shop and I do trust them with an RS4 but with me supplying the fluids, I was surprised at the total. Usually I do all my own work but I’m a bit short on space at the moment.

I’m going to do the transmission and diff myself, now but I didn’t want the hassle of having to deal with seized or broken DP studs. Not that the car has ever seen snow or salt.

Unfortunately, there’s a lack of good Audi shops up this way. I’ve got a couple of questions about a few things but it’ll be more relevant if I post in the other thread.

[Pyromatic177]

AA, I saw that post the same day my clutch pedal started getting intermittently heavy and did think it was somewhat ironic.

They wanted $1100 for the following..
Swap DP’s
Drain and replace transmission and diff fluid.
Fit new slave cylinder and replace/bleed the entire brake/clutch system.

It’s a well known, reputable shop and I do trust them with an RS4 but with me supplying the fluids, I was surprised at the total. Usually I do all my own work but I’m a bit short on space at the moment.

I’m going to do the transmission and diff myself, now but I didn’t want the hassle of having to deal with seized or broken DP studs. Not that the car has ever seen snow or salt.

Unfortunately, there’s a lack of good Audi shops up this way. I’ve got a couple of questions about a few things but it’ll be more relevant if I post in the other thread.

Based on you saying that the car has neer seen snow. The DP studs shouldn't be too big an issue just soak with PB Blaster

[Kenny147]

Yep, which is why $400 just to swap the DP’s raised an eyebrow. Anyway, we’ll see what they quote for the clutch.

[AA 954]

Yep, which is why $400 just to swap the DP’s raised an eyebrow. Anyway, we’ll see what they quote for the clutch.

Thats about the same that I got quoted, at least the other half of RS4 owners I’ve chatted too about this item have told me to pay and save the pain , reason as to why my DP install is on hold and will get done together with the clutch

[Kenny147]

Got the shop to quote FW and clutch replacement and they came back at $1200, which was more than reasonable.....so a new clutch it is, along with a few extra preventative maintenance jobs and the catless DP's..

Now all I have to do is buy the parts...

[MugelloB7RS4]

Got the shop to quote FW and clutch replacement and they came back at $1200, which was more than reasonable.....so a new clutch it is, along with a few extra preventative maintenance jobs and the catless DP's..

Now all I have to do is buy the parts...

Which clutch? Just be aware if you put factory parts back in that the shop should make sure the self adjusting mechanism is set properly before install, and also keep in mind that it may down the road that it could fail in the same way you're experiencing now. Seems like the the self adjusting mechanism is a weak point in our factory clutches.

[Matt Devo]

Seems like the the self adjusting mechanism is a weak point in our factory clutches.

I believe this is fixed in newer revisions - I haven't heard of anyone installing the LUK repset and having issues afterwards. I'm running it myself (with a USP metal slave line) and haven't had any issues so far

[Kenny147]

I'm going with the LUK kit and DMFW from Rockauto. Everything else will be VAG parts. Normally I'm a stickler for genuine Audi parts but LUK was the original OE supplier and I can't see the point in this case, paying a lot more for Audi stamps. Also, the original clutch has lasted almost 80k miles, which isn't half bad.

Mug, don't worry, I'll be making very sure the SAC is reset to the correct position.

[Kenny147]

Just to close this off, I had the clutch replaced along with all the ancillary items and a USP slave. The clutch had started to discolour but easily would have lasted a few thousand miles more. While the total bill was a bit of an eye waterer, it’s all done and one less thing to worry about, going forward.

One more thing, definitely do the rear main crank seal, if you’re going to the trouble of removing the transmission. Mine had started to weep at 77k.

[Jretal]

FWIW - despite being 6 nuts to get the DPs out, I'd pay $400 all day and night if I had to swap mine again.

You have to lower the rear of the engine 2" to get access. I had to weld up special tools to get to the top nut on the pass side b/c the O2 sensor was in the way... and despite having them in 15k miles ago (with all new studs and nuts), I had to torch each nut to get it to come off, and still broke 2 studs in the process.

I'm sure doing it on a lift vs. my back would make it somewhat easier, but yeah... it's a bit of a b!tch nonetheless!

As for the USP 'upgrade,' it removes the rubber/plastic. I did it on my car b/c it was easily accessible, but otherwise I really don't think there's much of a performance difference.