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  1. #1
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    Exclamation Audi b8 making clicking/popping sounds when turning, reversing, and parking low speed

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    Plz guys, I really need your help here. I’ve been to 4 different mechanics and none can fix the issue. They each charged me hundreds of dollars but no solution. I recently wasted $600 at Bruno’s VW-Audi Repair in Queens, NY on a wheel bearing that didn’t fix the problem .

    Car: 2013 Audi A4 Quattro premium

    Symptoms: The car (front-end passenger side wheel-well) is making a clicking/popping (metallic sound) whenever I turn the steering wheel while the car is in motion. The clicking is more pronounced at low speed (below 5mph). It’s not a constant click click click click, it’s more like a every now and then click. When put in REVERSE, all Hell Breaks Loose. The sound is quite audible backing up into parking spots (metallic click click)(when steering wheel locks counterclockwise). It’s really embarrassing and possibly unsafe. Like am driving a car from the late 80s. At first, It was a subtle click, but It got louder over time. Didn’t realize how loud it was until I had someone back-up into a parking spot while I stand outside to listen. I also heard the click/pop sometimes when I brake hard or drive slow in a straight motion. I don’t know what’s causing it. Note: clicking does not give feedback in steering wheel (no vibration in steering or footwell), only sound. The sound is not present when the car is stationary. I described the best I can.

    Attempted Fixes: I’ve been to multiple mechanics. The last one (Bruno) claimed they “rotated the axels” to see if it’s an axel problem. They said it’s not. They also claimed they “tried out a new steering shaft” and no luck. Lastly, they “installed a wheel bearing” and it didn’t fix the issue. I mentioned the control arm, they said it’s nice and tight. Honestly, I don’t trust what they are saying. I Don’t even know if certain tasks were performed. Had history with shady mechanics. Now am down another $600 with no fix. I don’t know what else to do. I tried to do as much DIY as I can but am not experience enough. Can’t figure it out. I tried reading various forums and threads to no avail.

    Solution/suggestion: Plz if anyone knows the fix, do tell me. Is it an axel cv joint, control arm, sway bar, or something else. Am open to any suggestions. Also, if anyone knows of any reputable Audi mechanics in the New York Metropolitan area, plz point me in the direction. Don’t know what else to do at this point. Thank you for your time and effort.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    Sounds like the typical worn out CVJ sound. If it goes “clack clack clack” on hard slow turns, it’s the outer CVJ’s. It’s the balls in the outer Rzeppa joints jumping in the cross grooves as the groove are enlarged and the balls are worn.

    Can’t believe the mechanics didn’t know this. They sound like a bunch of hacks.

    (PS I was a driveline engineer so I speak from professional experience).


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  3. #3
    Junior Member Two Rings quazler's Avatar
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    Very random idea. One of my buddies had something like this happen on his car and it would randomly make metallic clinking sounds. Turns out his TPMS sensor in his wheel came loose and was dinging inside of his wheel. Maybe an idea?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Interesting idea, but unfortunately our cars don't have TPMS sensors! At least my '12 doesn't, maybe earlier ones do.

    To the OP: it's a little unclear from your post - does the noise happen when you hold the steering wheel in a fixed position, or does it only happen when the steering wheel is in motion?

    If it's the former I agree with Stazi, a bad CV joint is likely the culprit. When I worked as a mechanic, sometimes we'd take the car to an empty parking lot, one person would stand in the lot, and the other would maneuver the car around him, turning sharply, to try to figure out which wheel the noise was coming from.

    If the noise only happens when the steering wheel is in motion, the lower shaft connecting the wheel to the rack is the most likely culprit. But it could also be the rack itself, or something in the steering column.
    Be alert! America needs more lerts.
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    '12 A4Q also self-tuned

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
    Sounds like the typical worn out CVJ sound. If it goes “clack clack clack” on hard slow turns, it’s the outer CVJ’s. It’s the balls in the outer Rzeppa joints jumping in the cross grooves as the groove are enlarged and the balls are worn.

    Can’t believe the mechanics didn’t know this. They sound like a bunch of hacks.

    (PS I was a driveline engineer so I speak from professional experience).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank you for your time and suggestion. I will definitely check out the CVJ next.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by quazler View Post
    Very random idea. One of my buddies had something like this happen on his car and it would randomly make metallic clinking sounds. Turns out his TPMS sensor in his wheel came loose and was dinging inside of his wheel. Maybe an idea?
    I appreciate the suggestion.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ELaw View Post
    Interesting idea, but unfortunately our cars don't have TPMS sensors! At least my '12 doesn't, maybe earlier ones do.

    To the OP: it's a little unclear from your post - does the noise happen when you hold the steering wheel in a fixed position, or does it only happen when the steering wheel is in motion?

    If it's the former I agree with Stazi, a bad CV joint is likely the culprit. When I worked as a mechanic, sometimes we'd take the car to an empty parking lot, one person would stand in the lot, and the other would maneuver the car around him, turning sharply, to try to figure out which wheel the noise was coming from.

    If the noise only happens when the steering wheel is in motion, the lower shaft connecting the wheel to the rack is the most likely culprit. But it could also be the rack itself, or something in the steering column.
    Thank you for your suggestion. 95% of the time, I only hear the clicking noise when the steering wheel is turning. Every now and then, it clicks when I brake hard or when driving normal.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    Audi b8 making clicking/popping sounds when turning, reversing, and parking low speed

    Only when your actually moving the steering wheel, or when you have the steering wheel turned, and you are start moving the car?

    Does it make the noise when the car is completely stationery and you are just turning the steering wheel?


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    Last edited by Stazi; 09-28-2019 at 05:47 AM.
    2012 Audi A4 2.0T S-Line
    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    ^^^He's asking a good question.^^^ But EVERYTHING about this sounds like a bad CV joint.
    11 A4 Q, Prestige, Black
    207,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I have the same situation on the driver'sside, I've replaced the axle, all control arms shocks and mounts and still have the noise. There have been very rare occasions that upon Hard breaking I do hear the pop sound coming from the front driver side. I can duplicate the sound if I'm backing up and the steering wheel is turned to the right. The only thing left for me to do is the sway bar link and bushing. Any other ideas? I'm going crazy here, and poor lol

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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    A worn end link might pop.


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    2012 Audi A4 2.0T S-Line
    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
    A worn end link might pop.


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    End link? Meaning sway bar end link?

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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljefe1981 View Post
    End link? Meaning sway bar end link?

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Audizine mobile app
    Correct.


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    K04 // IE Stage 3 K04 tune // USP HFC // Becker Cat-back // ECS Intake Pipe (w/modded airbox + K&N) // ECS Luft-technik FMIC Intercooler and pipe kit // GFB VTA // RS mesh grille // CF M4 style spoiler // ST rear sway bar.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    My front lower straight control arm on passenger side was popping and clicking for a while. I always thought it was the sway bar end link but upon inspection that was solid. A shop advised me that my lower straight control arm bushing was shot, and indeed it was. After replacing, steering is solid and noise is gone.

    If you don't know what you're doing, best is to take it into a shop, lift the car, and have someone inspect the suspension components. An inspection doesn't take long (20-30 min) and can usually pinpoint a worn bushing or other component that is making noise.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4x View Post
    My front lower straight control arm on passenger side was popping and clicking for a while. I always thought it was the sway bar end link but upon inspection that was solid. A shop advised me that my lower straight control arm bushing was shot, and indeed it was. After replacing, steering is solid and noise is gone.

    If you don't know what you're doing, best is to take it into a shop, lift the car, and have someone inspect the suspension components. An inspection doesn't take long (20-30 min) and can usually pinpoint a worn bushing or other component that is making noise.
    I did take it to a shop, they could not figure where it was coming from. They suggested that the last thing to do would be the shocks and mounts because the other side was starting to leak. I did inspect the sway bar end link and it feels and looks solid. Like I said, I've replaced all the control arms and the CV axle. I'm wondering if I got a bad replacement control arm at this point. I'm at a loss. The only thing left is the link and bushings on the sway bar. Any other suggestions?

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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings mtroxel's Avatar
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    I've been reluctant to say this since its so "out there." I had a pop noise in the front...sometimes. Drove me nuts. Finally opened the hood and pushed up and down and I heard the noise...from the fender. When I had done my timing chain, I hadn't tightened a bolt from the fender to the radiator carrier. Fender moved a bit sometimes, and the vibration reverberated through the fender like a sounding board.

    You might have something that stupid. But you need to figure out how to make it repeat, reliably.
    11 A4 Q, Prestige, Black
    207,000 miles, APR Stage 1

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings
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    The only way I can repeat it is by turning the steering wheel to the right and backing up. And it's a one time pop in that position.

    Sent from my Galaxy S10+

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings Stazi's Avatar
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    Ok then that is definitely a worn suspension component. One of the ball joints is my guess.

    You need to get someone to repeat that movement over and over while you crouch down next to the front wheel so you can try and pinpoint the source.


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  19. #19
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    Today I accelerated fast and I faintly hear the pop. When I get someone then I will try that.

    Sent from my Galaxy S10+

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by eljefe1981 View Post
    Today I accelerated fast and I faintly hear the pop. When I get someone then I will try that.


    Sent from my Galaxy S10+
    You ever figure the sound out? tia

  21. #21
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    UPDATE ON CLICKING/POPPING SOUND.

    Unfortunately, the issue still remains. Unbelievable.

    WHAT I'VE DONE SO FAR.

    1. Replace the steering wheel shaft.
    2. Install a new front wheel bearing on the side where noise is noticeable(at least that's what the shop said).
    3. Install new subframe bolts.
    4. Replace my 2 front axle assembly (those were actually bad so the change was necessary). Was hoping that fixed the issue, but it didn't.
    5. About 2 years ago, I replaced my entire control arm assembly in the front (the clicking noise wasn't present then).

    Though my car is out of warranty, I took it to the dealership with the intent of diagnosing the problem. This was prior to changing my axles. They concluded that my front axles were the source of the problem. Had them replaced at my mechanic yet the problem remains. CRAZY.

    At this point, I am out of ideas. Being throwing money away left and right to no avail.
    I mentioned swaybar links, control arm bushings, but still haven't gotten any positives.

    My next objective is to jack the car up, go underneath, rattle and tighten every damn thing I see, and pray to God something works.

    NEED SOME HELP GUYS. Thanks in advance!


    HERE ARE MY UPDATED SYMPTOMS.

    1. The car makes loud clicking/popping noise when the steering wheel is turned all the way, in either direction. (Both stationary and in motion). Noise is more pronounced on the front passenger side (right), underneath the car by wheel well area.

    2. The sound can easily be created, when in reverse or forward motion, with steering wheel turned all the way to the left. CLICK! CLICK! CLICK!

    3. Also, whenever I brake sometimes, go over bumps/uneven pavement, and at the moment of acceleration. CLICK!/POP!


    Still searching for answers. Plz Help. I know someone might have a solution for this. Point me in the right direction. Thank you.

  22. #22
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    One thing to check would be the tightness of every single bolt holding every single part of the suspension together... it's possible that a loose or semi-tight bolt might allow a component to shift position slightly as force is put on it from different directions from the steering wheel being turned.

    If I were at a shop I'd put it up on the lift and see if the problem can be reproduced. If so, it should be possible to find the source of the noise using a mechanic's stethoscope. If the problem can't be reproduced with the weight off the wheels, you might need to find a shop with an alignment rack, where the car can be lifted up and you can get access to the underside with its weight still on the wheels.

    The above is based on what you stated in your most recent post, that the noise happens when the car is not moving. If the noise only happens when the car is in motion (as you indicated in your first post), it still could be a suspension component, but drivetrain components (CV joints, axles, driveshaft, rear diff and its mountings, even engine/trans mounts) come into question also.
    Be alert! America needs more lerts.
    Eric Law
    '14 A6Q 3.0t prestige self-tuned
    '12 A4Q also self-tuned

  23. #23
    Active Member One Ring NICKLIMLAW's Avatar
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    any update here? i have the same problem when reversing and the wheel turned counter clockwise and my performance shop cant figure it out.

  24. #24
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    I was having a similar creak/click in reverse and it turned out to be a cracked portion of subframe where right side of sway bar attaches.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by NICKLIMLAW View Post
    any update here? i have the same problem when reversing and the wheel turned counter clockwise and my performance shop cant figure it out.
    This type of situation with the multilink suspension setup that these cars have is almost always caused by something in the brakes, axle, or something related. I would check the backing plate behind the caliper; if one of those bolts gets loose or the plate bends from a small impact, it can make a clicking noise during various conditions. Next thing would be the CV axle; assuming you have a Quattro, your CV boot could be torn or the axle itself damaged, causing clicking when it's under strain. Lastly, check the entire steering knuckle itself. If there is something wrong in the steering knuckle, or something broken, you may not be able to feel it because it's a big and very stong part of the front suspension, but will probably be able to see it and hear it when the damaged portion hits something. One final thing could be the U-joint under the engine where the steering column shaft meets the connection to the steering rack; I've seen that get rusty and thus make a rough clacking noise and movement when turning the wheel at low speed.

  26. #26
    Junior Member Two Rings rovision's Avatar
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    @samboslama12

    I would also suggest to find a friendly mech who would lift the car and do a thorough check of all components while in air: suspension, axles, steering, engine mounts, wheel bearings, sway bar, etc. Then, turn on the engine and have somebody sit in the car and select the gear (R, D1-2) where you notice the noise (at the RPM where it happens). Turn the wheels, if that's when you hear the noise, while in the respective gears and same RPM.
    If no positive outcome, and no other simple solutions, think further: not impossible that it's transmission related. And since it doesn't cost much and can be done with VCDS or similar OBDII scanner, try a trans "adaptation".
    This will reset your trans to original parameters and could solve a potential issue with your TCU/Clutch/Flywheel that can result in clunking noises in certain gears/RPMs.
    I had some clunking noise when in R, and the adaptation with a software update for my Mechatronic unit, completely solved my issue.

  27. #27
    Active Member One Ring NICKLIMLAW's Avatar
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    mine was the break pad sticking to the slotted rotors more than the caliper. I went with the S4 pads and it went away. I also had hawk pads previously and no issues for 10 years. This time was because I put old pads on that were new when I bought the car and I think the adhesive backing for the caliper just lost it's grip over time. Try testing by reversing in to the spot slow af and not applying the break till you absolutely have to.

  28. #28
    Senior Member Three Rings WHT13AR's Avatar
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    Just a tip, I wouldnt turn the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary, its REALLY hard on the ball joints, steering mech and tires. If you want to do this, put the front tires on folded garbage bags. It'll slide free and wont tear up your parts.

    I hope you find the issue. Stuff like this drives me crazy. Been looking for an annoying rattle in my wifes car for months...still there, I cant drive or ride in her car because of it.

  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings linden's Avatar
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    The CVJ in these cars are such junk. We have had 3 Allroads and none of them have made it to 50,000 miles before needing a replacement. That is insane. Expect to keep replacing these things. Not sure how Audi hasnt had a recall to this junk.

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Three Rings Unispeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samboslama12 View Post
    UPDATE ON CLICKING/POPPING SOUND.

    Unfortunately, the issue still remains. Unbelievable.

    WHAT I'VE DONE SO FAR.

    1. Replace the steering wheel shaft.
    2. Install a new front wheel bearing on the side where noise is noticeable(at least that's what the shop said).
    3. Install new subframe bolts.
    4. Replace my 2 front axle assembly (those were actually bad so the change was necessary). Was hoping that fixed the issue, but it didn't.
    5. About 2 years ago, I replaced my entire control arm assembly in the front (the clicking noise wasn't present then).

    Though my car is out of warranty, I took it to the dealership with the intent of diagnosing the problem. This was prior to changing my axles. They concluded that my front axles were the source of the problem. Had them replaced at my mechanic yet the problem remains. CRAZY.

    At this point, I am out of ideas. Being throwing money away left and right to no avail.
    I mentioned swaybar links, control arm bushings, but still haven't gotten any positives.

    My next objective is to jack the car up, go underneath, rattle and tighten every damn thing I see, and pray to God something works.

    NEED SOME HELP GUYS. Thanks in advance!


    HERE ARE MY UPDATED SYMPTOMS.

    1. The car makes loud clicking/popping noise when the steering wheel is turned all the way, in either direction. (Both stationary and in motion). Noise is more pronounced on the front passenger side (right), underneath the car by wheel well area.

    2. The sound can easily be created, when in reverse or forward motion, with steering wheel turned all the way to the left. CLICK! CLICK! CLICK!

    3. Also, whenever I brake sometimes, go over bumps/uneven pavement, and at the moment of acceleration. CLICK!/POP!


    Still searching for answers. Plz Help. I know someone might have a solution for this. Point me in the right direction. Thank you.
    Did you ever find out what caused this clicking?
    2015 Audi A4 2.0TFSI (GEN 3 engine) with DL501 transmission (GEN 2 tran.)
    (B9 A4 engine mated to an S4 transmission in a B8.5 chassis. )

    2000 S4 6spd stg 2+ (gone but not forgotten)

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