Anywhere to get rear eccentric bolts for less than a small fortune?

[b5v6]

Rebuilding the rear end and gonna replace all the bolts as they're all in unacceptable condition. Adding everything to the cart at ECS comes to over $150! Am I seriously going to be coughing up this much on the hardware alone?

Was a blast getting the lower rear arms completely separated...

instagram: @oliepyle

[walky_talky20]

I commend you on diving into this project. It makes a full front end refresh seem like a walk in the park.

In my area, that lower eccentric bolt is *never possible* to remove. They are always, without question, fused to the ID of that lower bushing, requiring cutting the bolt out. Generally this means an oxy-acetylene torch. The Rear Toe eccentric bolts do exactly the same thing, and you have to cut right through the rear tie rod to get those out. Good times.

To answer your question - the dealer is the only source for those eccentric bolts that I know of. They aren't particularly special, so there may be another vehicle with cheaper bolts that you could use. You could really get away with not using an eccentric at all, just a bolt of the correct shaft size with a large enough head. Do the adjustment with a pry bar, then tighten down. Tack weld for insurance. This does feel somewhat hacky and against the premium ideals that the 4 Rings are meant to signify - so, I just bought the bolts.

[Blazius]

possibly going to local machining friend and getting some normal bolts machined :) ?

[walky_talky20]

I just checked, and those OEM bolts are fairly pricey. It would be neat if we could identify a cheaper bolt that worked in our application. Probably some camber eccentric bolt that is used on an application where there is aftermarket availability. Like this $7 Lemforder bolt kit for older Mercedez-Benz cars:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...yABEgKs1fD_BwE



Seven Dollars! I love when parts are in single digit dollars. Makes me feel like a Honda owner.

[b5v6]

I commend you on diving into this project. It makes a full front end refresh seem like a walk in the park.

In my area, that lower eccentric bolt is *never possible* to remove. They are always, without question, fused to the ID of that lower bushing, requiring cutting the bolt out. Generally this means an oxy-acetylene torch. The Rear Toe eccentric bolts do exactly the same thing, and you have to cut right through the rear tie rod to get those out. Good times.

To answer your question - the dealer is the only source for those eccentric bolts that I know of. They aren't particularly special, so there may be another vehicle with cheaper bolts that you could use. You could really get away with not using an eccentric at all, just a bolt of the correct shaft size with a large enough head. Do the adjustment with a pry bar, then tighten down. Tack weld for insurance. This does feel somewhat hacky and against the premium ideals that the 4 Rings are meant to signify - so, I just bought the bolts.

Thanks for the link below. Touching on this comment above I was happy the inner control arm bolts came out. The driver side eccentric bolt came out after many saturations of lubricant and hitting it with an impact gun. Really got lucky there. The passenger side bolt sheared off and wouldn't break loose so the recirculating saw took care of that. Still gotta press the bushings out, not sure if I'm going to finally purchase a press or take it somewhere. Looking at the Verkline polyurethane bushing kit. Thinking I'll add grease zerks to each bushing.

instagram: @oliepyle

[Wooshy]

hmm

[walky_talky20]

Threads don't matter as long as you have a nut to go with it. They don't even have to be metric.

The important parts are
A) that it's reasonably the correct length (or can be shortened to the correct length while still having enough threads and key-ing for the eccentric washer on the threaded end),
B) that the shaft size is correct (or close enough) and
C) that the OD of the eccentric washers are a decently close match to the OEM (to fit the slots on the Audi control arm).

[b5v6]

For reference the stock ones are M12x1.5x87 and M12x1.5x95.

instagram: @oliepyle

[walky_talky20]

The Mercedes-Benz bolt I posted is M14 x 1.5 x 135. The search continues...

[walky_talky20]

This VW/Audi bolt is on sale for $7 right now: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/wht000153/

M12 x 1.5 x 85
Part number: WHT000153

[walky_talky20]

This aftermarket (MTC) BMW bolt is also around $6: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mtc-part...326863853~mtc/

M12 x 1.5 x 82

[walky_talky20]

VW/Audi, $8: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...bolt-wht000228

M12 x 1.5 x 97.5



This is from the VW MK5, "This bolt holds your lower track arm to the cross member." I'm looking for the washer to go with it.

[Blazius]

Still ridicolous prices for a bloody bolt lol

[xdewaynex]

Still ridicolous prices for a bloody bolt lol

Better than dealer cost. A few years ago, I was quoted over $50 for 2 of them when the alignment shop snapped one.

[b5v6]

Good finds Walky, I'm gonna try them

instagram: @oliepyle

[Blazius]

Better than dealer cost. A few years ago, I was quoted over $50 for 2 of them when the alignment shop snapped one.

Holy moly.

[b5v6]

So I started this project on my break between summer and fall semesters hoping to get it done. The front went fairly smooth, new axles, shocks, springs, and ball joints. The rear has been a nightmare. I have the rear driver side back together but was stuck with the passenger side rear lateral link bolt seized. Had to drill it out sideways. 20 year old car from the East coast, not a fun activity but feels good to be making progress. I will be doing a 6 speed swap in a few years and replace the subframe. On a side note I just graduated and will not have to worry about splitting my time studying. Stay in school, I'm 38 and took a lot of breaks lol.

instagram: @oliepyle

[Scotty@Advanced]

Still ridicolous prices for a bloody bolt lol

Lol... apparently you've never worked on aircraft. Some simple bolts for UH-60 are well over a grand each and there are 16 of them per side.

[Blazius]

Lol... apparently you've never worked on aircraft. Some simple bolts for UH-60 are well over a grand each and there are 16 of them per side.

course I didnt lol, but who cares if you are doing work on a military/civilian helicopter :) you dont buy bolts with your own money and if you do , and you bought a helicopter then 1k grand/ bolt is nothing for you.

[hightime80]

Lol well said above.. Completely irrelevant post haha.

[desertsage]

Ha! I just finished doing this same demolition on my '97 B5. Had to cut all of the bolts off of all the rear suspension components with a reciprocating saw with carbide tipped blade, bushings, track rods, wheel bearing housings, etc. So nice to see that I'm not alone in this!

Which eccentric bolts are you looking for? The Track Rods or the Wheel Bearing Housings? The two are different. Different size washers. I replaced all of mine with new but still have one that came out fine (Left Wheel Bearing Housing). I can send it to you if you'd like! It still looks great. Let me know.

[b5v6]

Ha! I just finished doing this same demolition on my '97 B5. Had to cut all of the bolts off of all the rear suspension components with a reciprocating saw with carbide tipped blade, bushings, track rods, wheel bearing housings, etc. So nice to see that I'm not alone in this!

Which eccentric bolts are you looking for? The Track Rods or the Wheel Bearing Housings? The two are different. Different size washers. I replaced all of mine with new but still have one that came out fine (Left Wheel Bearing Housing). I can send it to you if you'd like! It still looks great. Let me know.

Good job getting it done. ECS sent me a bolt from a newer model and it worked so nothing is needed now. Thanks for the offer though

Sent from my motorola one zoom using Tapatalk

[Bisquick]

Good job getting it done. ECS sent me a bolt from a newer model and it worked so nothing is needed now. Thanks for the offer though

Sent from my motorola one zoom using Tapatalk

What was the part number of the newer bolt ECS sent you?

[walky_talky20]

As a replacement for the B5 A4 rear camber bolt, which is no longer available, my guess is they sent the C5 A6 / B5 Passat 4 Motion bolt: WHT-001-661 also known as 8E0-501-387A (M12x1.5x95)

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/wht001661/

Also, I previously stated that the B5 rear camber bolts in my area generally require cutting out with a torch. We got a new tool at the shop which has changed the game a little bit. It's a MAC Tools Long Barrel Air Hammer, and it is magic on these bolts. Has great throttle control so you can really start smoothly and avoid slipping off the bolt. So far I've gotten 2 very stuck rear camber bolts (1 even came out in 1 piece, which is always a bonus), and a couple front pinch bolts, too. Very effective. Harbor Freight has the same exact tool (literally the same internal parts), but without the good throttle control for quite a bit cheaper. Either would probably get the job done.

https://www.mactools.com/products/mph1911



https://www.harborfreight.com/profes...mer-56524.html