Buying advice for used A7 TDI

[Rsniper4]

Hello!

I am very happy to say that an A7 may be my next car!
More specifically, my desired spec is 2014/2015 A7 TDI Prestige in Daytona Gray pearl paint.
I've come across three listings that meet my spec, and would like some feedback what fair price I should pay based on location and mileage.

- 2015 with 71000 mi in Florida for $30k
- 2014 with 33000 mi in Wisconsin for $33k
- 2014 with 31000 mi in Michigan for $32k

I am l leaning towards the one in Michigan, but I suspect there is a reason its priced so low with such low mileage. I fear its priced low due to road salt corrosion on the underbody. However, in my experience Audis tend to be very rust resistant.
Of course I will go to inspect the vehicle in person, and of course will check for rust, but if its so likely that rust is an issue, then maybe I shouldn't waste my time with it?

I plan to keep this Audi for at least 5 years, and of course want as few problems as possible.

Any feedback is appreciated,

Thank you!

edit: Thanks for all the responses guys! I'm gonna buy one soon!

[A6sport]

Tough call, but even the Fla. car is young for a diesel, just getting broke in. On paper, I probably go for the Mich. car too.
but look closely at the Fla. car, owner, service record, etc.

[Fourplay]

They all have 10 year/120k mile powertrain warranties, so any of them would be okay.

I would lean towards the lower mileage ones - the Florida car is rather overpriced.

[daytona rs7]

the possible corrosion on the michegan car would steer me away.

florida cars tend to be cleaner, but that price seems way too high. unless its immaculate and full service history...no idea how they justify the cost. negotiate?

[Wilbur_RS7]

Not that I know the A7 market, but the one in florida seems priced a little high. Also, find out where in FL. I say that because I live down here and South FL cars (Miami area) have a repuatation sometimes. Just a couple months ago a forum member was looking at an RS7 for sale in Miami and it had been been in an accident (or damaged somehow), but it had a clean carfax and supposedly a CPO by Audi. Granted that could happen anywhere, but Miami has many shady shops and business practices. I've seen it myself on a few other cars, including one that I bought.

[delmd92]

Obviously inspect, but I wouldn't worry too much about the rust issue. I have a 2014 Q5 (bought used) that has lived in WI all its life (we salt the heck out of the roads) and no underbody corrosion. My 2014 A6 has only seen one WI winter, but is from Indiana and no issues either. I paid 32 with 54K on the odo 1.5 yrs ago, probably a little overpriced but with diesel gate the car ended up costing me nothing. I think the prices are highish especially Mr. Florida. Planning to get 400K on these cars like the last TDI Jetta I had. Good luck with your purchase.

[PynkFloydd]

There are issues with cars from areas without snow also... One of the issues I've noticed from southern cars is that the 'chrome' trim (usually plastic) and headlights are usually starting to cloud after a few years and some of the plastics are very brittle. Audis aren't that great for rust...they use a steel subframe and they also don't use a rubberized 3M anti-corrosion coating, just put the frames through a bath. --The best cars I've owned that have extensive rust prevention measures have been BMWs. Nobody else compares to the extent BMW goes.-- That said, I wouldn't worry too much about rust. The subframe will be rusty (mine already is in places), but that shouldn't affect its integrity for a long time and the body panels are all aluminum.

Anyways, those prices all seem high. I picked up my Daytona Gray 2014 A7 Prestige TDI with 71,552 miles (Drivers Assistance, LED headlights, 20" sport wheels, cold weather package and rear airbags) for $28,900 in NJ around March 2018. Diesels don't sell quickly in the US, so many dealerships are willing to wholesale them. I'd target $26-27k and just be patient, unless you really need a car now and willing to pay more to get the right options.

Since I've gotten my car, I've had to replace the front bearings, suspension components, an O2 sensor (~$500 part for diesels but covered under the dieselgate warranty) and updated maps and firmware in a few modules. I'd definitely pay attention to the bearings...there's a TSB for them and the OEM Audi bearings are terrible. I'd also check the control arms for cracks in the bushings and the guide link for leaks. My guide link was leaking by 80k and my bearings were dead by 75k. I'd probably look for any leaks in the motor mounts also.

For the electronics, it's likely the MMI firmware hasn't been updated in a while and the maps are old. If you're buying from an Audi dealership, try to get these updated for free before buying. I don't remember the version, but the Bose firmware was updated a few years ago in a firmware update and most of the before/after comparisons I've read say the update improved the sound dramatically. The latest MMI update will have every space filled on the main menu while the older versions have an empty space in the 12 o'clock position. The latest update on the 2014/2015 cars will allow you to use an AT&T sim. I also went through and manually used SVM codes from TSBs to update my modules, which was a huge pain. I don't think it made a huge difference for most, but the steering was definitely improved when I updated that module with the latest firmware.

On the plus side, I wouldn't worry about the engine much. I've just gotten a letter for a new recall replacing the particulate filter with a new one and all of the other pricey components are all covered by the extended dieselgate warranty.

[Rsniper4]

Wow, I am impressed with all the replies! I am learning alot!
For those wondering, none of the listings I found were from a certified Audi dealership - but they do appear to be higher end used luxury car dealerships.

I've been researching on this car for a while, I have noticed that engine mounts are consistently a weak point for these Audis...
Also, if I understand correctly, the A6 and A7 of this generation are nearly mechanically identical. So when it comes to doing repairs and buying parts, I can confidently buy the A6 TDI engine mounts or wheel bearings, and it will fit exact on the A7 TDI?
I'm a DIY kind of guy, so if I cant get it warrantied, its gonna get done in my garage

At the moment, I plan to visit the Michigan Audi with the lowest miles. Admire and inspect it in person, test drive, and inspect the under body for rust and check the suspension components as best as they will allow me.
This will be my first time buying from a dealership, so I don't really know how to play their game in terms of negotiating price. I fear all I can do is find 'imperfections' and try to deduct those from their asking price.
Would it sound reasonable for me to offer down to 28 or 29k if I can pay immediately with cash?

Thank you guys again for your input!

[Vinng86]

FWIW, if you want an example for when you go check out the car's underbody, here's the bottom of my car from I presume 5 years of Canadian winters in neighbouring Ontario (bought it 1.5 years ago)

IMG_5706.JPGIMG_5710.JPG

The only problem areas seem to be the steel cross beam and a little bit of the frame rails along the length of the body (paint chipping from I guess being hoisted on a lift). The majority of the underside is perfectly fine as it is covered by panels and whatnot.


Personally, northern areas that experience salty winters are not too bad. The Florida car might actually be more rusted if it was stored anywhere near the salty ocean!


Lastly, apparently Audi has a 12-year "Corrosion Perforation Warranty", which covers corrosion damage regardless of mileage.
Only caveat is from a quick google search is that it's a real PITA getting dealerships to do the work. From what I understand, rust must be reported immediately and the rusting area cannot be painted over by a third party or they will use that as a reason to deny the warranty.

[PynkFloydd]

I've been researching on this car for a while, I have noticed that engine mounts are consistently a weak point for these Audis...
Also, if I understand correctly, the A6 and A7 of this generation are nearly mechanically identical. So when it comes to doing repairs and buying parts, I can confidently buy the A6 TDI engine mounts or wheel bearings, and it will fit exact on the A7 TDI?

For the most part, yes. There's a huge "but" though... Most Audis have multiple versions of parts and your part number depends on your specific configuration and year. There's a sticker in the trunk with your VIN and a bunch of codes. ...this will be your best friend. It tells you every version of part that is on your car from the brakes to the suspension. This specifically is what you need to use to order parts. For example, there are like 3 or 4 different rotor sizes for A7s and the American TDI uses 345mm rotors in the front, which aren't the same as the TFSI A7.

...but Audi shares many parts with other models across VAG. For example, the A7's suspension is also on the Porsche Macan. VAG doesn't change part numbers between their different brands either, so you can get many parts cheaper through Porsche or VW than Audi. Most parts from the RS7 and S7 can also be used.

I highly recommend tracking down an online source for ETKA. ...part numbers are updated so often on these cars that you won't be able to keep up otherwise, especially because there are so many different variations (and online sellers aren't very accurate or always have the latest revision by model).

For repairs, you can open an online account on Audi's erWin and pay $35 for a day pass to download all the repair guide with detailed instructions and torque values. This will be the best $35 you'll ever spend. Coming from BMW and a Mercedes, I actually had to buy a lot of new tools. Everything is Triple Square on these, VAG sells a special tool for everything and every replacement seems to require a special calibration. ...but, it's not as bad as Mercedes and parts for the A7 TDI are reasonable online. (Full set of front/rear brakes and rotors from Brembo only cost about $400 for the A7 TDI!)

https://erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showHome.do

Personally, northern areas that experience salty winters are not too bad. The Florida car might actually be more rusted if it was stored anywhere near the salty ocean!

This is a great point! One of the worst used cars I've seen online was a used SL550 that was stored outside in Long Island by the ocean. ...even the aluminum was being eaten away.

There was also a bad period for German cars in the late 90s through early 2000s when they had to switch to a more environmentally friendly water-based paint and hadn't quite worked through all of the issues. You'll see Mercedes from this period have especially terrible rust on their body panels. ...but, I believe those issues have all been fixed now.

[Valpo A7]

I believe that Audi uses galvanized steel for their cars which means there should be little to no rust on most of the undersides. My A7 TFSI has lived in the Chicago area for its entire life and the underside still looks very good. American cars started using galvanized steel in 1987, not sure about European cars but every American car I have owned since 1987 has always had decent looking undersides after many winters here.

It sounds like you might be steering towards the Florida car but also remember that if its a coastal car it will see more sea salt as well. All three states have the chance of salt exposure.

If the dealership wants to make the sale I bet they would be willing to put it on a lift and face-time with you so you can do a long distance inspection yourself to see the underside condition of all 3.

[Rsniper4]

Again, thanks for the tips guys!

Is the TDI engine notorious for destroying engine mounts like the TFSI?
I took a quick glance on the online euro car part stores, and cant find any engine mounts for sale for the TDI engine, does this mean the dealer is my only option to get the mounts serviced :( ?

I mainly fear that I'll have to go to the dealer every every little thing that goes wrong. I'm pretty handy with a wrench, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do most maintenance and light repair jobs myself.

[Kevin1]

Again, thanks for the tips guys!

Is the TDI engine notorious for destroying engine mounts like the TFSI?
I took a quick glance on the online euro car part stores, and cant find any engine mounts for sale for the TDI engine, does this mean the dealer is my only option to get the mounts serviced :( ?

I mainly fear that I'll have to go to the dealer every every little thing that goes wrong. I'm pretty handy with a wrench, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do most maintenance and light repair jobs myself.

I just had the motor mounts replaced on my TDi for the first time at 96k miles.

[JoeM5952]

I bought my '14 A6 TDI prestige with 65K on it for $24K in Oregon about 6 months ago from an Audi Dealer. Been great so far, have about 72K on it now and autocross it a few times a year with no issues other than it is heavy for Auto-X haha.

[JoeM5952]

For the most part, yes. There's a huge "but" though... Most Audis have multiple versions of parts and your part number depends on your specific configuration and year. There's a sticker in the trunk with your VIN and a bunch of codes. ...this will be your best friend. It tells you every version of part that is on your car from the brakes to the suspension. This specifically is what you need to use to order parts. For example, there are like 3 or 4 different rotor sizes for A7s and the American TDI uses 345mm rotors in the front, which aren't the same as the TFSI A7.

...but Audi shares many parts with other models across VAG. For example, the A7's suspension is also on the Porsche Macan. VAG doesn't change part numbers between their different brands either, so you can get many parts cheaper through Porsche or VW than Audi. Most parts from the RS7 and S7 can also be used.

I highly recommend tracking down an online source for ETKA. ...part numbers are updated so often on these cars that you won't be able to keep up otherwise, especially because there are so many different variations (and online sellers aren't very accurate or always have the latest revision by model).

For repairs, you can open an online account on Audi's erWin and pay $35 for a day pass to download all the repair guide with detailed instructions and torque values. This will be the best $35 you'll ever spend. Coming from BMW and a Mercedes, I actually had to buy a lot of new tools. Everything is Triple Square on these, VAG sells a special tool for everything and every replacement seems to require a special calibration. ...but, it's not as bad as Mercedes and parts for the A7 TDI are reasonable online. (Full set of front/rear brakes and rotors from Brembo only cost about $400 for the A7 TDI!)

https://erwin.audiusa.com/erwin/showHome.do





This is a great point! One of the worst used cars I've seen online was a used SL550 that was stored outside in Long Island by the ocean. ...even the aluminum was being eaten away.

There was also a bad period for German cars in the late 90s through early 2000s when they had to switch to a more environmentally friendly water-based paint and hadn't quite worked through all of the issues. You'll see Mercedes from this period have especially terrible rust on their body panels. ...but, I believe those issues have all been fixed now.

For ETKA I have used this to lookup parts before, I am not sure how often it is updated though. https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/

[Fourplay]

There are issues with cars from areas without snow also... One of the issues I've noticed from southern cars is that the 'chrome' trim (usually plastic) and headlights are usually starting to cloud after a few years and some of the plastics are very brittle. Audis aren't that great for rust...they use a steel subframe and they also don't use a rubberized 3M anti-corrosion coating, just put the frames through a bath. --The best cars I've owned that have extensive rust prevention measures have been BMWs. Nobody else compares to the extent BMW goes.-- That said, I wouldn't worry too much about rust. The subframe will be rusty (mine already is in places), but that shouldn't affect its integrity for a long time and the body panels are all aluminum.

Anyways, those prices all seem high. I picked up my Daytona Gray 2014 A7 Prestige TDI with 71,552 miles (Drivers Assistance, LED headlights, 20" sport wheels, cold weather package and rear airbags) for $28,900 in NJ around March 2018. Diesels don't sell quickly in the US, so many dealerships are willing to wholesale them. I'd target $26-27k and just be patient, unless you really need a car now and willing to pay more to get the right options.

That was certainly the case in March of 2018, as a lot of dealerships (mine included) bought a ton of TDIs for the potential buyback profit and then were quickly trying to offload them. Those firesale prices were a one time occurrence and are not typical at this point.

This will be my first time buying from a dealership, so I don't really know how to play their game in terms of negotiating price. I fear all I can do is find 'imperfections' and try to deduct those from their asking price.
Would it sound reasonable for me to offer down to 28 or 29k if I can pay immediately with cash?

Thank you guys again for your input!

As someone who previously owned a used car dealership, allow me to let you in on a little secret. No dealership cares / is going to give you a discount because you're paying with cash. Regardless of the form of payment, when the deposit hits the dealership's bank account, it's all the same. In fact, some dealerships have deals with local credit unions which will give them kickbacks, so they will often prefer that you dont' finance with them. I can't tell you how many people would lowball the hell out of me (we're talking a $15k offer on a car listed at $25k and worth $25k) and say "but it's cash, today". The dealership does not care. If they're willing to negotiate, it's not because you're paying in cash, it's because they want to move the car.

Sorry, just had to vent.

If you want to negotiate, find imperfections, but more importantly, know what the car is worth and where that is relative to the selling price. If they have the car listed right around the clean trade-in price, chances are they won't be able to move much on the price. If it's $5k above, they are probably willing to work with you. Time on lot is also important, as the dealership likely has a floor plan loan with escalating interest rates or a loan call date, so they'll want to sell before the interest begins to step-up/the loan is called.

[PynkFloydd]

That was certainly the case in March of 2018, as a lot of dealerships (mine included) bought a ton of TDIs for the potential buyback profit and then were quickly trying to offload them. Those firesale prices were a one time occurrence and are not typical at this point.

My A7 TDI was actually a local trade to a NJ Land Rover dealership with an adjacent Audi dealership that they took in after the settlement was announced. The original owner had the dieselgate fix done, so unfortunately, neither I nor the dealership saw a dime of that money. (Once the fix is performed, nobody else qualifies for the payout.) Since their Audi dealer was next door, they gave me a full printout of service history and I was able to confirm this.

...I was also in the car business. I've actually noticed a lot of online wholesaling in limited circumstances from major dealerships. Those circumstances are usually that the vehicle requires maintenance and the vehicle is a trade that doesn't fit with the dealership's brand image. So, I found a 2015 S550 for below wholesale (with ~90k miles) from a Mercedes dealership in Texas and I've seen countless diesel sedans for under wholesale. The A7 TDIs are a hit or miss, but the BMW 3-series diesels are easy to find for wholesale prices.

Something important to note is that some of the dealerships holding onto A7 TDIs (for over ~90 days) that are refusing to send them to auction feel they have an ultra-rare car that someone is willing to pay a premium for. Avoid these dealerships. They're usually non-franchise used car lots and they're still in the car for what they originally paid. They're unlikely to reduce the price, despite depreciation. (There's an A7 TDI near me that I've seen for ~2 years with the same above-market value asking price.)

[TDItis]

I bought an A6 Premium PLus TDI with 81K miles on it for $15k four months ago. With Audi's, probably best to buy lowest mileage in your budget - I just couldnt resist this price.

[Rsniper4]

Thanks for the info guys! I feel confident now in my decision. I am planning to pick up my new A7 within a month once I find some time off from work!
Am very excited

[cipolz]

Looking to get back into Audi and found a good looking silver 2014 a7 prestige tdi s line with 18k miles for $30k. Thoughts? Any reason to stay away?

[Rsniper4]

Looking to get back into Audi and found a good looking silver 2014 a7 prestige tdi s line with 18k miles for $30k. Thoughts? Any reason to stay away?

Wow that price is almost too good to be true!
Based on my previous searches, that spec and mileage would be at least to $35k, and $30k for similar models with ~75k+ miles.
You will really need to inspect that car thoroughly to find out why its so cheap

[Valpo A7]

Looking to get back into Audi and found a good looking silver 2014 a7 prestige tdi s line with 18k miles for $30k. Thoughts? Any reason to stay away?

Get a very good look at it and have a good inspection done. 6 years old with only 18K means it only saw 3K per year. With that little use things dry out and wear out. The fluids have been sitting and collecting moisture and are breaking down because of lack of use. I'd have real concern with the friction material in the trans drying out and cracking and thus dumping crap into the trans oil. Low mileage trans fluid can be worse than high mileage trans fluid.

Average driving in the US is 12 - 15,000 miles per year. That car saw less than 25% of that. $30K might be okay if it was well maintained but allowing it to sit is not being maintained in my opinion. If you cannot do the work yourself you could be looking at a $5K repair bill to fix all the dry rot.

[cipolz]

Get a very good look at it and have a good inspection done. 6 years old with only 18K means it only saw 3K per year. With that little use things dry out and wear out. The fluids have been sitting and collecting moisture and are breaking down because of lack of use. I'd have real concern with the friction material in the trans drying out and cracking and thus dumping crap into the trans oil. Low mileage trans fluid can be worse than high mileage trans fluid.

Average driving in the US is 12 - 15,000 miles per year. That car saw less than 25% of that. $30K might be okay if it was well maintained but allowing it to sit is not being maintained in my opinion. If you cannot do the work yourself you could be looking at a $5K repair bill to fix all the dry rot.

thanks for the advice
I'll be getting a good PPI done

[IbisA7TDI]

Yep, that's a solid deal as far as I can tell but make sure that PPI is done well. I picked up my 2016 with 50k for $35k.

[cipolz]

Ppi done, no red flags anywhere. The car has been maintained at Audi dealer mostly.
my only hesitation is if it’s worth it to keep looking for a 2016 model for the tech advantages

[widebodyfx]

Just my opinion which is highly skewed, I'm on my 3rd 2016. 2016 S6, 2016 RS7 and now a 2016 A6 TDI. I steered away from every pre-facelift on the RS7 and TDI for the facelift changes. CarPlay can be activated on a 2016, on a 2016 you might be able to find a TDI still under factory warranty from stop sale for the warm fuzzy feeling inside and appearance wise beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

[cipolz]

Yes good info- appearance wise I think they’re both great. But I’m definitely used to apple CarPlay by now and the other add ons would be welcome too of course.
The other issue to consider would be the def consumption. 2016 is supposed to have decreased after emissions fix while 2014-15 increased by as much as 40%. Any feedback on the latter?

[MayorOfTDICity]

Again, thanks for the tips guys!

Is the TDI engine notorious for destroying engine mounts like the TFSI?
I took a quick glance on the online euro car part stores, and cant find any engine mounts for sale for the TDI engine, does this mean the dealer is my only option to get the mounts serviced :( ?

I mainly fear that I'll have to go to the dealer every every little thing that goes wrong. I'm pretty handy with a wrench, so I'm hoping I'll be able to do most maintenance and light repair jobs myself.

I have a '14 A6 TDI prestige with 47K miles and have been advised to replace both engine mounts, and the control arm bushings. Denver Audi quoted me ~$1,300 for the mounts, and ~$1,000 for the bushings. I believe there are aftermarket options for the engine mounts that perform better than OEM, but i haven't looked in to in enough yet. I'm going to speak with my shop to get a 2nd opinion on the price/options before doing anything.

You'll love the driving experience going up in to the mountains with the diesel. It's addictive to just pass everything in front of you with just a blip of the pedal. Good luck with your search, and the car!