The use of Audi Tool T40196

**Theiceman** · 08-09-2019 07:29 AM

I get asked this a lot so i thought it might be worth its own discussion, especially since i just recently completely built my motor, and i may forget all this soon.

The B8/8.5 was designed to have the head removed without ever removing the valve cover , which actually is the cam cradle also . This allows the head intake , cams and turbo to be removed from the engine in one complete unit along with all the other stuff bolted to the head. Actually it was more designed for assembly speed as they could have them built in another dept and then just pop them on the block, but that is another story.

In order to accomplish this there has to be a clear path to allow the Ribe tool to pass down through the valve cover to get to the head bolts. The problem lies in the fact the resting position of the engine has the exhaust cam lobes blocking the access to the bolt heads. ( by now you probably know the exhaust cam has high and low lift lobes and they slide on the cam shaft).

In order to get to the bolts you have to move those cam lobes out of the way. This is why you insert the tool into positions 2,3 6,7 and turn the crank 4 times. this moves the cam lobes out of the way.

after you have done all your work and put the head back on you need to move the cam lobes back to their initial position for starting . You now place the tool in positions 1,4,5 and 8. turn the crank 4 times and it slides them back to starting point ... done .

Note: if you are tearing the whole engine down and are removing the valve cover you can get away without it if you dont have the tool . just remove the valve cover and remove the cams ( with all the other hardware required of course, HPFP vacuum pump etc. ) , set them aside and put it back when done. I had the tool but never even bothered using them as i did not move the lobes out of their original positions. i bolted the head down , then installed the cams, then bolted down the cover.

Remember that you are fighting those valve springs when you do bolt down the valve cover so take your time and torque down gently a little at a time until you are clear of all mechanical obstructions.

hope this helps.

**magicmarker** · 08-10-2019 10:12 AM

I'm replacing my head with a rebuilt one. So if I read what you said right I put the tools in positions 1,4,5 and 8 AFTER I torque down the cover? That will set the cams in the right position? I don't have to worry about the cam positions when I torques down the cover? All this after all chains are back in too?

**Theiceman** · 08-10-2019 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by magicmarker

I'm replacing my head with a rebuilt one. So if I read what you said right I put the tools in positions 1,4,5 and 8 AFTER I torque down the cover? That will set the cams in the right position? I don't have to worry about the cam positions when I torques down the cover? All this after all chains are back in too?

Yup. After assembling the head it's the last thing you do before putting all actuator solenoids back
. I cant remember exact order but cams have to be in time to be bolted down. But have to be bolted down to rotate for timing.
. It a concert really. I'm sure will figure it out.
This has nothing to do with the tool of course. I am just talking about assembly order

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**tomsgtr** · 08-10-2019 10:47 PM

When I did my head, I had to put the drift tools in positions 2 4 6 8 and rotate the crankshaft to put the cam lobes into position. There's another special tool you insert between the cam lobes to keep it in that position.

**Smac770** · 08-11-2019 02:12 AM

These are the relevant summaries from the repair manual I have.

* Removing cylinder head with notched camshafts (with wrench/screwdriver clearance)

Set crank to TDC with vibration damper notch aligned to cover arrow and camshafts marks pointing upward
Remove 2 of the 10 cylinder head bolts in particular order with T10070
Set T40196 drifts into holes 2, 3, 6, 7 (counting front to rear) and turn engine 4 complete turns, then remove T40196 drifts
Remove the N205 valve and camshaft bearing bridge
(more work regarding releasing the camshafts chain tension)
Remove 8 of the 10 cylinder head bolts in particular order with T10070

* Installing cylinder head with notched camshafts (with wrench/screwdriver clearance)

Install 8 of the 10 cylinder head bolts in particular order with T10070
(more work regarding applying the camshafts chain tension)
Set crank to TDC with vibration damper notch aligned to cover arrow and camshafts marks pointing upward
Install the camshaft bearing bridge and N205 valve
Set T40196 drifts into holes 1, 4, 5, 8 (counting front to rear) and turn the engine 4 complete turns, then remove T40196 drifts
Install 2 of the 10 cylinder head bolts in particular order with T10070

------------------

* Removing cylinder head without notched camshafts

Remove the camshafts
(rest of work)

* Installing cylinder head without notched camshafts

(rest of work)
Install the camshafts

------------------

* Removing the camshafts

Remove the N205 valve and camshaft bearing bridge
Set crank to TDC with vibration damper notch aligned to cover arrow and camshafts marks pointing upward
Set T40196 drifts into holes 2, 4, 6, 8 (counting front to rear) and turn the engine 2 complete turns, then remove T40196 drifts
(more work regarding releasing the camshafts chain tension)
Remove the HPFP and vacuum pump
Remove the cylinder head cover
Remove the camshafts

* Installing the camshafts

Make sure pistons are not at TDC (How does one know this is accomplished? Pull all the spark plugs?)
Install the camshafts, using two sets of T40191 to make sure the exhaust cam elements are properly spaced
Install the cylinder head cover
(work work regarding applying the camshafts chain tension)
Set crank to TDC with vibration damper notch aligned to cover arrow and camshafts marks pointing upward
Install the camshaft bearing bridge and N205 valve
Set T40196 drifts into holes 1, 4, 5, 8 (counting front to rear) and turn the engine 4 complete turns, then remove T40196 drifts
Install the vacuum pump and HPFP

One of the oddities is why is the N205 and bridge in place when using the T40196 when removing/installing the cylinder head whole, and when installing the camshafts. But removed when using the T40196 when removing the camshafts?
Another oddity with the removing camshafts instructions, the T40196 designated holes are not the opposites of the opposing operation (installation in this case). And only two engine rotations?
It would seem the position of the exhaust cam elements when removing the cam would be irrelevant, no? Still, what's the point of using different holes than what one would do for removing the whole cylinder head?

The pic for the T40196 in the removing camshafts section T40196 confusing picture.png

**Theiceman** · 08-12-2019 06:26 AM

that is odd indeed....
would make more sense that install is opposite of removal...

in my manual shows shows this ....

in prep for removal of head

after installation of head.

but looking at it more closely today i did note something .. my instructions say to move to TDC , remove 2 of the head bolts... then put the tool in , rotate as first pic , remove rest of head bolts.

then when putting head back put 8 of the 10 in , put the tool in as second pic shows, rotate 4 times , then put last 2 head bolts in .

its odd that there are so many variations.

**Theiceman** · 08-12-2019 06:35 AM

just some theories.. i have no specific knowledge.

One of the oddities is why is the N205 and bridge in place when using the T40196 when removing/installing the cylinder head whole, and when installing the camshafts. But removed when using the T40196 when removing the camshafts?. Just the way they wrote the instructions. The tool to slide the lobes on the cam has zero to do with bridge, does not matter if it is on or off.
Another oddity with the removing camshafts instructions, the T40196 designated holes are not the opposites of the opposing operation (installation in this case). And only two engine rotations?
It would seem the position of the exhaust cam elements when removing the cam would be irrelevant, no? Still, what's the point of using different holes than what one would do for removing the whole cylinder head?.. when removing the head you are trying to align access for bolt holes for head, the cam cover/ carrier will not be moving... when just removing cams you are aligning on the low lobe so there is less pressure from the valve springs on the cam to make removal and instalation of cam cover/carrier easier.

**Smac770** · 08-12-2019 09:20 AM

I can live happily with those theories.

So 2,3,6,7 and four revolutions for head removal without disassembly.
Or 2,4,6,8 and two revolutions for camshaft removal.
Then 1,4,5,8 and four revolutions to put things back where they belong after it's all done.

**Theiceman** · 08-12-2019 09:24 AM

Originally Posted by Smac770

I can live happily with those theories.

So 2,3,6,7 and four revolutions for head removal without disassembly.
Or 2,4,6,8 and two revolutions for camshaft removal.
Then 1,4,5,8 and four revolutions to put things back where they belong after it's all done.

Yup that's how it looks to me too.

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**whats77inaname** · 08-12-2019 09:39 AM

This is some good information to have. Thanks for posting it.

**magicmarker** · 08-23-2019 10:25 AM

Thanks, I'll follow this when assembling:

Then 1,4,5,8 and four revolutions to put things back where they belong after it's all done.

**dmarcum99** · 04-09-2020 10:14 PM

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I'm reinstalling my cam in my 2010 a5.

I'm interested in the seating of the pins on installation. I've used the red camshaft install for and got the camshaft in place. But it seems as the pins do not sit completely flush....are they supposed to be fully seated and into the grooves?? My pins are resting on top and not inside the grooves...

I have not rotated 4 times yet.

**Theiceman** · 04-10-2020 09:21 AM

yes it should be in the grooves.. otherwise it can not move the lobes when you crank the engine over by hand. do you have a pic of what you are talking about ?

**dmarcum99** · 04-14-2020 09:17 AM

I took a couple of pics and I by manipulating the sliders I was able to get 3 fully seated for 1,4,&8. #5 was able to insert but it's as far as it goes unless I back the crank pulley back a little bit.
I just wanna make sure I'm not screwing something up.

**dmarcum99** · 04-14-2020 09:31 AM

- - - Updated - - -

https://imgur.com/gallery/dcrRmee

**Theiceman** · 04-14-2020 02:07 PM

crank the pulley back a bit you will be fine .. that pin has to seat .. or if you are more comfortable, leave the pin out until you go all the way around until it comes up again so you can insert , there is no worries you might just be on the wrong lobe until you get the pin inserted , it wont do any harm. remember it will take two crank turns for one cam.

**tomsgtr** · 07-30-2022 08:06 PM

I'm reassembling my head and I was looking back at this thread. I think the repair manual is suggesting you remove the cylinder head using the bolt holes through the valve cover. Which requires you move the cam lobes so you can have room to loose the head bolts. I'm not doing that method.

This is the method I ended up doing - I'm not installing the cylinder head and valve cover as a unit. I'm going to do it separately.

The camshaft exhaust sliders has to be in a certain position (1,4,5,8) otherwise you will have a hard time trying to install the valve cover. The lobes will interfere with the valve cover and it wont line up correctly.

So put them in 1,4,5,8. If you have the red insert tools, insert them in like in the repair manual so when you slide the lobes manually, you will not slide it too far and the ball and spring will shoot out. It could shoot right in your face if you're not careful.

To do it manually, insert the red spacers, Slide the first lobe set (cylinder 1) towards the front of the car, Slide the second lobe set (cylinder 2) towards the rear of the car, Slide the third lobe set (cylinder 3) front of the car, and slide the last lobe (cylinder 4) set towards the rear of the car.

Place the camshafts on to the cylinder head with the timing marks in the correct position, I temporary install the cam bridge with a couple of bolts to the cylinder head, I hand tighten the triple square bolt into the front of the exhaust camshaft. Doing this step will move the camshaft into the correct position since the exhaust camshaft has a lot of free play to move back and forth.

Remove the cam bridge, install your timing chain and when the timing chain is on and set and you're ready to rotate the engine, place the pins in 2,3,6,7, I manually rotate each one, I put the pin into position 2, with my hand on it, rotate the engine with my other hand and you can feel the cam lobes move over. If you remove the little plastic covers and plastic peg on the valve cover, you can also visually verify it move. Repeat until all lobes have moved into their low lift positions.

If anyone thinks I'm wrong or has other input, please let me know.

**mc_hotmail** · 07-30-2022 10:59 PM

you can get away without it if you dont have the tool . just remove the valve cover and remove the cams

The old ElsaWin 3.6 manual asks for poly drive 3452 (triple square) to remove cylinder head bolts. The 3452 shaft without the 1/2 socket about 78mm. I bought and used that to work on the AVK 3.0 V6 head gasket. Newer manuals replace 3452 with T10070 (even for the same MY V6 engine), which is 140mm long.

When I rebuilt the B8 four-banger, I reused the good old 3452, because I removed the valve cover and cams first. With the valve cover on, you must use the longer T10070. I like the feel of the short 3452 -- less likely for the hand to tilt the poly drive off the center and damage the bolt.

**RPMtech147** · 07-31-2022 05:36 PM

Originally Posted by tomsgtr

When I did my head, I had to put the drift tools in positions 2 4 6 8 and rotate the crankshaft to put the cam lobes into position. There's another special tool you insert between the cam lobes to keep it in that position.

The first time I tore down a ruined 2.0T I was playing around with the silders on the exhaust cam and launched the spring and detent ball into low earth orbit. I decided I should order those..

Worth every penny.

T40191 is the Audi P/N and they were cheap, like $20.

My Cheapo Amazon 2.0T Cam timing kit has the little slugs for moving the sliders around when the VC is still installed. That's the best $40 I've ever spent and payed for it self 100's of times over.

**blubaru** · 09-21-2024 06:36 PM

Bumping old thread - if just removing the cover and leaving the head on, do you need to do pins in 1,4,5,8 after it’s assembled? I don’t have the spacer tools, I followed the Elsa Win guide and did the 2 rotations with pins in 2,4,6,8 before removing the cover, and the cam is easy to get in and out. The Elsa instructions do not say to use the pins, only the spacer tools. I’m also not sure where the above post got the instructions to do 2,3,6,7, so I’m just trying to figure out how much it matters.

I also noticed that my rollers are on the “front” lobe for every pair, which means cyl 2 and 3 are on the high lobe and 1 and 2 are on the low. Should I manually move them when cam is installed in lower tray so that 2 and 3 are on the low lobe? When I did the 2 rotations I was able to get all the pins flush so really not sure if this is correct or not.

**Theiceman** · 09-23-2024 01:55 PM

too far back for me now ..it's almost 6 years.. time flies...I used service manual at the time. others who have done it more recently might be able to help..

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**Chillaxin** · 09-24-2024 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by blubaru

Bumping old thread - if just removing the cover and leaving the head on, do you need to do pins in 1,4,5,8 after it’s assembled? I don’t have the spacer tools, I followed the Elsa Win guide and did the 2 rotations with pins in 2,4,6,8 before removing the cover, and the cam is easy to get in and out. The Elsa instructions do not say to use the pins, only the spacer tools. I’m also not sure where the above post got the instructions to do 2,3,6,7, so I’m just trying to figure out how much it matters.

I also noticed that my rollers are on the “front” lobe for every pair, which means cyl 2 and 3 are on the high lobe and 1 and 2 are on the low. Should I manually move them when cam is installed in lower tray so that 2 and 3 are on the low lobe? When I did the 2 rotations I was able to get all the pins flush so really not sure if this is correct or not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2e_3yqmvYY&t=1s

**Robv27** · 01-25-2025 05:07 AM

I realize this is now a 6yo thread, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
2016 Audi Q5. CPMB engine code

Long story short... A friend and I installed the head back in this engine after we had removed because of no compression on cyl 1,2 and 3. When we removed the head, (not as a whole assembly with intake, or turbo and all the stuff. We removed everything, including the cams out of the head) we discovered 3 burned valves!
After replacing all 8 exhaust valves with new ones We, installed everything back up with new timing parts and head gasket set, but we never did this cam install procedure because we had no idea it needed this. We were extremely careful and organized when we removed everything, to a point that when we removed this eshaust cam, we didnt even know the cam loves moved around, so with all this being said, we reinstalled everything, including this exhaust cam without really any issues, (like it kinda just dropped in and we timed it with the chain and torqued all the bolts and sequences and all) and than we hand cranked the engine, re checked timing and it eas all perfect... BUT than, to our surprise, when we tried to start the engine... NO COMPRESSION!!!
we both had done successfully a few CCTAs or CBFAs and other engines head rebuilt before for bent valves and timing failures, but they never had these type of cams...
We are now obviously worried about this lack of compression on all 4 cylinders... i know we made a mistake by installing the exhaust cam wothout the proper procedure, but we obviously didnt know... so what now??
We looked inside the cyl through the spark plug holes and theres no sign of any valves hitting the pistons, so thats good...
HOW MUCH TROUBLE DE WE HAVE HERE?
Im now assuming theres no compression in the engine because maybe the cam lobes are in the incorrect "tracks" of the rockers?
Did we do damage to the cam, or Rockers or valves?
Do we just take the cams back out and reinstall with the right procedure?
Thabks everyone for any imput! We are pretty desperate right now... its gis wife's car... she needs it back!!
I appreciate you all's help!!!

**A4Qwattro** · 01-25-2025 05:38 AM

Originally Posted by Robv27

I realize this is now a 6yo thread, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
2016 Audi Q5. CPMB engine code

Long story short... A friend and I installed the head back in this engine after we had removed because of no compression on cyl 1,2 and 3. When we removed the head, (not as a whole assembly with intake, or turbo and all the stuff. We removed everything, including the cams out of the head) we discovered 3 burned valves!
After replacing all 8 exhaust valves with new ones We, installed everything back up with new timing parts and head gasket set, but we never did this cam install procedure because we had no idea it needed this. We were extremely careful and organized when we removed everything, to a point that when we removed this eshaust cam, we didnt even know the cam loves moved around, so with all this being said, we reinstalled everything, including this exhaust cam without really any issues, (like it kinda just dropped in and we timed it with the chain and torqued all the bolts and sequences and all) and than we hand cranked the engine, re checked timing and it eas all perfect... BUT than, to our surprise, when we tried to start the engine... NO COMPRESSION!!!
we both had done successfully a few CCTAs or CBFAs and other engines head rebuilt before for bent valves and timing failures, but they never had these type of cams...
We are now obviously worried about this lack of compression on all 4 cylinders... i know we made a mistake by installing the exhaust cam wothout the proper procedure, but we obviously didnt know... so what now??
We looked inside the cyl through the spark plug holes and theres no sign of any valves hitting the pistons, so thats good...
HOW MUCH TROUBLE DE WE HAVE HERE?
Im now assuming theres no compression in the engine because maybe the cam lobes are in the incorrect "tracks" of the rockers?
Did we do damage to the cam, or Rockers or valves?
Do we just take the cams back out and reinstall with the right procedure?
Thabks everyone for any imput! We are pretty desperate right now... its gis wife's car... she needs it back!!
I appreciate you all's help!!!

First question: Was the motor consuming large quantities of oil before it lost compression and you decided to rebuild?

Second, the cam lobes being in either position (small or large valve lift) would not cause a loss of compression. Is there any oil in the engine?

**Robv27** · 01-25-2025 05:53 AM

Originally Posted by A4Qwattro

First question: Was the motor consuming large quantities of oil before it lost compression and you decided to rebuild?

Second, the cam lobes being in either position (small or large valve lift) would not cause a loss of compression. Is there any oil in the engine?

So, to answer the first question.
According to my friend, the engine were using about 1 quart of oil about every 3k miles.
We only decided to mess with it because of the loss of compression on cy 1,2 and 3.

2nd: i agree with your statement about the lobes being in a position where it would not make it have compression. It makes sense on all engines.
Obviously, we put new oil inside of the engine, but as for the cyl walls, they were pretty clean and "dry" when we reinstalled everything back up!
I was also thinking it could be rings, as we know these engines have rings/piston problems!

Thanks so much for tour input my friend! Greatly appreciated!

**A4Qwattro** · 01-25-2025 06:17 AM

You mentioned that you looked inside the cylinder to check the valves. Did you also look for cylinder wall scoring?

Another cause of the loss of compression can be head gasket not sealing well for some reason. In that scenario, there might be bubbling in the coolant reservoir. You can rent a coolant system pressure tester from local auto parts store. Check if the reading fluctuates while you crank the engine (or just look for air bubbles or some indiciation that air goes into the coolant system).

Finally, are the cylinders dry? (free of oil). There's needs to be an oil film to develop compression. I don't know if you guys were cleaning the motor of debris while you were working. In that case it might take a few more cranks to get oil to the cylinder walls.

**Robv27** · 01-25-2025 11:23 AM

Yeah, just to be clear, we replaced the Head gasket and everything else involved because the original problem was no compression! Now, after replacing the head gasket, still no compression. We replaced all 8 of the exhaust valves, where 3 of them were burned and had holes in them. When we pulled the head off, we carefully inspected the cilinder walls, and there were no scratches nor anything odd! The pistons looked OK too, exceptnto carbon build up, specially on number 4.
Im really thinking this engine is also having ring problems. Timing is good and nothing touches nothingbwhen manually rotated or cranked with the key. Everything looks great, except no compression. I thought it cpuld be cause we installed the exhaust cam without the tools and procedure described here. But i now thing that's not the issue... i thinknits rings!
As for the cylinder walls, we cleaned the very well and left them "dry ". Im thinking about putting some oil inside of each cylinder and try to start it to see if it builds any compression. I just dont see how it can go from 0 compression to good (150ish at least) from just adding some oil in the cylinders... but anything is possible!
Thanks again for the input! I appreciate that!

**SNice** · 01-25-2025 11:37 AM

Originally Posted by Robv27

Yeah, just to be clear, we replaced the Head gasket and everything else involved because the original problem was no compression! Now, after replacing the head gasket, still no compression. We replaced all 8 of the exhaust valves, where 3 of them were burned and had holes in them. When we pulled the head off, we carefully inspected the cilinder walls, and there were no scratches nor anything odd! The pistons looked OK too, exceptnto carbon build up, specially on number 4.
Im really thinking this engine is also having ring problems. Timing is good and nothing touches nothingbwhen manually rotated or cranked with the key. Everything looks great, except no compression. I thought it cpuld be cause we installed the exhaust cam without the tools and procedure described here. But i now thing that's not the issue... i thinknits rings!
As for the cylinder walls, we cleaned the very well and left them "dry ". Im thinking about putting some oil inside of each cylinder and try to start it to see if it builds any compression. I just dont see how it can go from 0 compression to good (150ish at least) from just adding some oil in the cylinders... but anything is possible!
Thanks again for the input! I appreciate that!

Apologies if this is a silly question… but did you check the valve seats or lap the new valves prior to installation?

…also did you mess with the injectors at all?

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**Robv27** · 01-25-2025 12:51 PM

Originally Posted by SNice

Apologies if this is a silly question… but did you check the valve seats or lap the new valves prior to installation?

…also did you mess with the injectors at all?

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Oh, no problem SNice! No silly questions as i know how many people dont do that stuff!
But yes! We lapped alll the exhaust valves. We never removed the intake valves... we checked all the valve seats too snd they were good. No knicks but just stains, and after we lapped the valves they were all good. We never removed the injectors from the head.

**SNice** · 01-25-2025 01:58 PM

Originally Posted by Robv27

Oh, no problem SNice! No silly questions as i know how many people dont do that stuff!
But yes! We lapped alll the exhaust valves. We never removed the intake valves... we checked all the valve seats too snd they were good. No knicks but just stains, and after we lapped the valves they were all good. We never removed the injectors from the head.

Well sounds like you checked everything else - if it’s not the head gasket, valves, or injectors - it’s gotta be the rings. Weird that it is across all cylinders. Warped head? Maybe a leak down test is in order?

…also did you ever finally do the camshaft adjustment procedure referenced earlier in this thread? It’s been a while since my rebuild but I feel like the cam positions need to be set manually prior to starting (by inserting the pins in the solenoid holes and turning the crankshaft a few revolutions) - I don’t think it happens automatically.

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**Theiceman** · 01-27-2025 10:30 AM

well since there are no silly questions ...
could you have mixed up intake lifters with exhaust lifters ?
could this engine have had catastrophic failure and moved the cam lobs on the cam shaft ? ( they are pressed on. )
was the detent locked in the intake cam phaser when doing base timing ?
do you have any pics of your base timing setup ?

are you sure your TDC is really TDC ? did you verify TDC with gauge on the top of piston one ? you could you have the crank sprocket off on the crank and you are just assuming the rank sprocket is correct ?

if all is perfect . I would remove cams and do leakdown.. all valves are closed with no cams and should tell you if it's rings
personally I dont think it's rings. if compression is now good, you know it's the top end timing somewhere

good luck.

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**blubaru** · 01-27-2025 11:26 AM

From what I’ve seen in videos and experienced myself, if you set all of the solenoids / actuators to the retracted position, the car will sort itself out on first start. You can try to make them somewhat evenly spaced but I don’t think a lot of shops actually do anything with the tools.

**Robv27** · 01-27-2025 03:40 PM

Hey All! Thanks for ALL the input! I
I Believe we have found the problem!
And it seems like Theiceman has hit the head of the nail!!
So we today took the cam cradle and cams back off after rechecking timing, wich was perfect, and than... I SAW IT! We had mixed up the intake lifters with exhaust lifters!!🤦🏽 i dont know how it happened, but it did! I guess thats the negative of having 2 people working on the same engine and assuming each other are just doing things right...🤣. We didnt have enough time to reinstall everything back up, as it was getting late, so we are back on it tomorrow and she "should" hopefully start right up! I feel so dumb about this... neither of us are Audi (or any brand fornthat matter) gurus, but we know our way about cars... but anyways, allways something to learn, and when we think we are being careful... sometimes we're still not careful enough! But ill let tou guys know how she runs tomorrow!
Btw... i paid SUPER Extra attention when removing the exhaust cam, and i reset it before i removed it from the head. I did it according to the video posted above from youtuber Neptown Tuner! (What a great dude btw! Knows his stuff)
With the way he explained it and how i saw the cam placement on the head today, i honestly dont see why we would need this special tool to reinstall the exhaust cam! Anyway... just a thought! Im not too sure what the tool would do, that Neptown could not donin his video! I guess ill find that out tomorrow!
Everyone, Again! Thanks so much for all your help and input! Shed lots of light! Blessings!!