What engine oil do yo u guys prefer and why?

[Serpex13]

About to get an oil change done and was wondering what some of the oils that you guys use are.

[kebabman]

About to get an oil change done and was wondering what some of the oils that you guys use are.

I used Mobil 1 0W-40 for my last oil change, got some LiquiMoly to try for the next one. One advantage of 5k oil changes I guess.

[wwhan]

I typically use Mobil 1 European formula 0W-40 (VW 502), works well & easy to find. The 5 gallon container is around $28 at Walmart.

I am tempeted to try the Mobil1 ESP 5W-30 (VW 504), since it allegedly produces less sludge, but it does cost more.

My underhood labels says to use VW 502 or VW 504 motor oil.

The local Audi dealer uses Pennzoil Platinum Euro because it is cheaper.

[Serpex13]

What oil filter do you guys use?

[Chiromikey]

I’ve been using Motul or LiquiMoly but good grief it’s a pain in the butt to find locally of you need a quart to top off between oil changes. Always used Mobile1 with my AMGs with zero issues on a lot of hard miles. I’m seriously considering going back to Mobile1, not just because it’s easy to find, but I feel like the 0 weight may give me a small layer of comfort with the oil screen issues.

[gk1]

Motul Specific 5w-40 for changes.
and/or Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Improved ESP aka AFL for top offs.
Optional for top offs because locally avaialble...Pentosin Pento High Performance II
OE filter

FWIW top off oil usually lasts a while never had to do more than 250ml in a 5k mile change interval.

[Clipse3GT]

I’ve been using Motul or LiquiMoly but good grief it’s a pain in the butt to find locally of you need a quart to top off between oil changes. Always used Mobile1 with my AMGs with zero issues on a lot of hard miles. I’m seriously considering going back to Mobile1, not just because it’s easy to find, but I feel like the 0 weight may give me a small layer of comfort with the oil screen issues.

I ran 0w-40 M1 with OEM filters. Turbos both failed at 46k miles. 0w-40 will not help. It's the oil screen micron is wrong and it clogs from sludge build up or simply the oil starts to break down and creates enough large particles to clog the oil screen. 5k OCI buys time. Doubt it's a actual fix.

[Dasquade]

I ran 0w-40 M1 with OEM filters. Turbos both failed at 46k miles. 0w-40 will not help. It's the oil screen micron is wrong and it clogs from sludge build up or simply the oil starts to break down and creates enough large particles to clog the oil screen. 5k OCI buys time. Doubt it's a actual fix.

That is why some take it one maintenance step further and do oil flush restorations (BG, Bardahl, etc...) and additional oil adds. Sadely we can't proof if it helps or not...

[OlyS6]

Motul 5w-40 Excess:
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-...gateway&sr=8-3

Oil change interval of 5k miles. I've been using a can of BG EPR engine cleaner at the start of each oil change:
https://www.amazon.com/cans-EPR-Engi...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

At 25k, when I changed the turbo oil screen out to the new version, my old screen was pristine.

[Chiromikey]

Motul 5w-40 Excess:
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-...gateway&sr=8-3

Oil change interval of 5k miles. I've been using a can of BG EPR engine cleaner at the start of each oil change:
https://www.amazon.com/cans-EPR-Engi...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

At 25k, when I changed the turbo oil screen out to the new version, my old screen was pristine.

Was thinking about starting this regimen. Do you simply add oil afterwards with no worries about any leftover solvent?

[OlyS6]

Was thinking about starting this regimen. Do you simply add oil afterwards with no worries about any leftover solvent?

Yep, just add it to the old oil, and run the engine at temp for 15 minutes. Then drain the old oil. Change the filter, add new oil, done. I fully drain it, and don't use a mityvac with this process- I'd be concerned about leaving some solvent in if I only used a vacuum and didn't completely drain the oil.

[warp_ix]

I've been using a can of BG EPR engine cleaner at the start of each oil change

One can or two?

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[OlyS6]

I've only been using one can, but the directions say that for our volume of oil we should be using 2 cans of the BG EPR.

[Patrick Matte]

Liqui Molly

[wwhan]

BG EPR Engine Performance Restoration information PDF

"For 7-9 quart (6.6–8.5 liter) capacity crankcase: Add two 11 oz. (325 mL) cans BG EPR® to crankcase. Start engine, bring to full operating temperature and run engine for 20 minutes at 1,200 RPM. Shut off engine, drain oil and remove old oil filter. Install new filter, replace drain plug, and fill with new oil. Do not use on badly sludged engines!"

[Miller136]

Liquid Molly. If it’s not available Motul. I have to go to Napa. Advanced Auto and such don’t carry German motor oil.


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[LawDawg]

2 questions:

Is it a problem to add 22oz. (2 cans of BG EPR) to the engine oil? That seems like quite a bit to have "overfilled" your oil levels.

Do you actually sit there and rev the car in neutral to 1200 RPM after it warms up, or do you just go for a short, easy drive keeping the RPMs low?

Will def. do this at my next change.

[wwhan]

2 questions:

Is it a problem to add 22oz. (2 cans of BG EPR) to the engine oil? That seems like quite a bit to have "overfilled" your oil levels.

Do you actually sit there and rev the car in neutral to 1200 RPM after it warms up, or do you just go for a short, easy drive keeping the RPMs low?

Will def. do this at my next change.

For running at high idle, the extra 22oz should not be a problem, most likely the oil is not completely full, since last oil change.

Use a tool to keep the throttle at high idle 1200rpm: Lisle 48700 Throttle Pedal Depressor, $19.34 FREE Shipping

" Engage the nylon hook under the steering wheel
Tool is 40" in overall length
Use the adjustment screw to fine-tune the RPM level
Then extend the depressor rod to the accelerator pedal "

[gk1]

2 questions:

Is it a problem to add 22oz. (2 cans of BG EPR) to the engine oil? That seems like quite a bit to have "overfilled" your oil levels.

Do you actually sit there and rev the car in neutral to 1200 RPM after it warms up, or do you just go for a short, easy drive keeping the RPMs low?

Will def. do this at my next change.

Good question.
I'd be uncomfortable if I did not at least remove half a quart prior or maybe ok if the oil level already reads half quart(liter) low at oil change time.

[DoItAllGarage]

I spoke with a Liqui Moly rep and this is what he recommended. I change my oil every year bec I only put about 5-6k/yr. What I use on my S7, Liqui Moly (top tech 4200, anti-friction oil, and engine flush every other oil change) and use Liqui Moly 2332 Leichtlauf High Tech on my A4 B8. Screenshot_20190818-185708_Amazon%20Shopping.jpeg

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[gk1]

I spoke with a Liqui Moly rep and this is what he recommended. I change my oil every year bec I only put about 5-6k/yr. What I use on my S7, Liqui Moly (top tech 4200, anti-friction oil, and engine flush every other oil change) and use Liqui Moly 2332 Leichtlauf High Tech on my A4 B8. Screenshot_20190818-185708_Amazon%20Shopping.jpeg

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Weird that Liquimoly would recommend the lighter 5w-30(4200) for the S7, when their 5w-40(4100) is recommended on their website as well as it's on Audi's approved list.
While I'm sure both are fine and all Liquimoly is probably pretty good, since we are splitting hairs here the 5w-30 just seems like an odd choice, but for your low usage it probably doesn't matter. Also the "synthesis-technology" is market speak for "not really fully synthetic" GroupIII (thanks Castrol) again probably no difference to most anybody, but I believe their Group IV stuff goes by different naming (if it exists at all any more...maybe Synthoil Energy.)

From Liquimoly:
"Note :According to the National Advertising Division® all Group III and Group IV based oils are designated as “Fully Synthetic” oils. "

Again from Liquimoly:
Group III:
"Hydrocracked base oil combines the positive properties of mineral and fully synthetic base oils with one another. This base oil type offers a very good thermal stability and resistance to aging with simultaneously absolute material compatibility. The basis for hydrocracked base oils are formed by the paraffin taken from the mineral oil extraction. The paraffin is made up of long-chained molecule compounds (> C35). These are split open in the presence of a catalytic converter under a pressure of 70 - 200 bar and temperatures of up to 500 °C and shortened to a useful length of C20 – C35 (catalytic hydrocracking). The liquid in the vacuum is subsequently distilled, in order to avoid the cracking of the molecule chains. In the last step, any paraffin deposits are removed"

Group IV:
"Fully synthetic base oil is mainly characterized by its very good thermal stability and cleaning performance. As high performance as it is, so laborious its manufacture also is. So-called naphtha (petrol without additives) serves as the base product. Naphta in cracked in the first step, which means that the molecule chains (C5 – C12) split open and are broken down to a length of C2 – C3. The former liquid is now gaseous. In the consequent synthesis process the short molecule chains (C2 – C3) are added to long molecule chains (C20 – C35) and sealed by adding hydrogen (hydrogenation)."

So there is a defined difference between Group III & Group IV yet oil manufacturers are not required to differentiate between the two Groups in advertising...jeez....

Again it all likely makes no difference whatsoever and I know a lot of this information is old news...just being pedantic. Sorry.

[DoItAllGarage]

Really good info! I haven't been on LM's site in almost 2 yrs, looks like they added more options. I totally agree not much of a difference between 30w vs 40w, colder vs warmer regions. The 4100 is cheaper, may change to save a few bucks.

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[Dre325]

This Technical Service Bulletin is pretty helpful if you don't already have a favorite brand. For the S6 we want VW 502 00 compatible. I got a warning last night that my oil is low, so I've been researching what to top it off with. My dealer who did my last oil change under AudiCare said they use Castrol 5w30, but weren't specific as to which Castrol so I may go by and ask in person just out of curiosity.
https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...e-Bulletin.pdf

[wwhan]

........For the S6 we want VW 502 00 compatible.......

My S6 underhood label says to use VW 502 or VW 504 motor oil, so I could also use the VW 504 5w-30 oils listed near the end of the bulletin.

[Joe'sS6]

Mobil 1 5W50 works like a charm in warmer climates, at iddle the engine runs smooth. You can forget about those valves clicking noises at iddle when using Castrol Edge and the original VW 504 00 oil.