Long version/DIY:
A spring/shock combo was the best value for what I wanted out of the car. I didn’t care for the height adjustability and the drop I would get from the Bilstein B8s and H&Rs would be good for all around use. And other than the PSS10, which are basically impossible to get now, everything pretty much needs to be removed from the car to be adjusted and I wasn’t interested in that. I also had a similar set up on a previous car and it was great so off I went. KW SCs were another option but more expensive and once the rebound is set would probably rarely ever get adjusted, and there’s additional cost for the adjustment extenders.
Parts:
Contacted our friendly neighborhood Mops for most of the stuff who as usually provided great service. I also elected to order the density line front strut mounts from 034 since the new set-up would be stiffer, and wanted to make sure the mounts were set. Also ordered a trans mount (already had ECS drive line inserts).
Figured I would swap to the Moog end links since the fronts are taken off anyway and the rears are far more accessible. The rears are way easier to access with the shock removed, I didn’t end up using the rears though because I didn’t like the way they fit (soft or hard) with the 034 bar, bushings/bolting just didn’t line up right. The stock ones are so short I doubt there is much improvement in stiffness anyway.
New parts list:
Bilstein Shocks:24-145985 / 24-145992
H&R Springs: 29001-3
034 Strut Mount: 034-601-1003-TD
034 Trans Mount:034-509-4025
Moog Front/Rear: K750359/K750361
Audi also made almost every suspension bolt a TTY bolt and therefore they are supposed to be replaced each time. I know a lot of people reuse them and are OK, I decided to get new ones. Spoiler alert, there’s a lot. If you don’t do the rear end links, it’s less, and I ordered hardware for both ends of the upper control arms since I wasn’t sure which side I wanted to remove, just ended up doing the strut mount end, so less to order there too. Here is the list of everything though. NOTE: A shop manual is helpful, the TTY bolts should be torqued properly and many of them are torqued in curb weight position (jack the suspension up to normal height).
Item Description / Size / Part Number / Qty
1. Upper Control Arm to Upper Strut Mount Bolt / M10x62x45 / N-104-253-02 / 4
2. Upper Control Arm to Upper Strut Mount Nut / M10x1.5 / N-102-861-10 / 4
3. Upper Control Arm Spindle Pinch Bolt / M10x110x24 / WHT-007-963 / 2
4. Upper Control Arm Spindle Pinch Bolt Nut / M10x1.5 / N-102-861-10 / 2
5. Upper Strut Mount Bolts / M10x35 / N-911-523-01 / 8
6. Lower Strut Pinch Bolt / M12x1.5x80 / N-104-213-04 / 2
7. Lower Strut Pinch Bolt Nut / M12x1.5 / N-101-064-02 / 2
8. Lower Strut Mount to Control Arm Bolt / M12x1.5x85 / N-102-412-02 /2
9. Lower Strut Mount to Control Arm Nut / M12x1.5 / N-101-064-02 / 2
10. Front Swaybar End Link Upper Bolt / M10x45 / N-106-999-01 / 2
11. Front Swaybar End Link Lower Bolt / M10x60 / N-105-707-02 / 2
12. Front Swaybar End Link Lower Nut / M10x1.5 / N-102-861-10 / 2
13. Rear Swaybar End Link Bolt / M10x65 / N-909-978-02 / 4
14. Rear Swaybar End Link Nut / M10 / N-102-723-02 / 2
15. Rear Lower Shock Mount Bolt / M14x1.5x90 / N-105-008-02 / 2
16. Rear Upper Shock Mount Bolts / M10x40 / N-912-225-01 / 4
Now on to the fun part:
You will need a spring compressor (I borrowed from Autozone), basic set of tools, and a high torque impact will make things a lot easier. Buy a strut spreader from Amazon (VW 3424). Nothing really special. Note I also soaked everything in PB Blaster for a couple of days before getting started to try and ease disassembly, I only have about 40k miles, but not worth fighting with stuff. A second person is pretty much required for certain things for removal or install. If you have electronic damping you will have some additional parts to deal with.
1. Measure and record the center of each wheel hub to the fender for use later when tightening things.
2. Remove the front cowl cover and the two strut tower support pieces to allow access to the front strut bolts.
3. Rear Suspension:
a. Started in the back since the springs seemed like they would be the most likely to be a pain (spoiler alert, they were). Note that on the left side is the headlight level sensor, unbolt it from the control arm so it doesn’t get damaged during the work.
b. Remove two upper strut bolts, I had to trim the wheel well liner a little to get good access to the bolts. Just use a razor blade.
c. Take off the rock guard and remove lower strut mounting bolt. This is where a high torque impact is nice, this one would be a PITA to get off otherwise.
d. Remove the shock. Now’s the time to do the rear end links if you want (or after the spring as it’s a lot easier to raise up at that point with no spring tension).
e. The rear spring will come out a lot easier if you unbolt the brake caliper (like you are changing the pads), this will give you another 4 or 5” of room, and unbolting at least the end link from the sway bar will allow more suspension movement to bounce it when removing/installing the spring.
f. Compress the rear spring as much as possible using the tool and pry it out. A second person can leverage the suspension down to get more space. The new spring was around 2” shorter and isn’t as bad to get in, just bounce the suspension down while pushing it in. I didn’t use the compressor at all for the new one. Make sure the springs are properly seated in the perch before reinstalling.
g. Re-use the stock mount, bump stop and shield (I trimmed them at the first ridge from the top on front/rear – JHM has a good picture for their springs and the drop was going to be similar). Assemble the new one noting the proper order for everything as you disassemble the old one.
h. For reinstalling the rear shock, if you are quick, you can fully compress it and then get it set in place without much effort.
i. Marvel at your efforts, then realize you still have a bunch to do, the fronts are actually easier though.
4. Front Suspension:
a. Pull the ABS wire out of its clip so it doesn’t pull while moving stuff around, the brake line will be fine.
b. Unbolt the front end link from the lower shock fork/mount. I just took all the way out to replace it.
c. I unbolted the upper control arms from the strut mount instead of fighting with the ball joints. A little more complicated to reinstall but nothing that bad. Swing them towards you and out of the way. Note that the spindle and brake rotor and going to move a lot when these are disconnected.
d. Unbolt both the shock lower mount/fork part attached to the control arm and the pinch bolt at the top. Insert the strut spreader, rotate 90 deg and leave it in place, and you should be able to wiggle everything to get the lower strut mount/fork piece out. The spring and shock will now be hanging from the 4 bolts up top and that’s it.
e. Go back up top and unbolt the 4 upper strut mount bolts, support the assembly or its going to just fall out after the last bolt is removed. It’s not super heavy, just awkward. Tilting the brake rotor and spindle towards the front of the car will allow plenty of room to take it out.
f. Use the spring compressor just to take tension off the mount to remove the bolt, and so you don’t shoot the mount across the garage.
g. Reuse the spring perches, washer, bump stop (trim again), and rubber mount (unless you buy the new one. Again pay attention to the way everything came out. The bilsteins came with a new nut and washer this DOES NOT replace the washer that came off of the shock under the mount. The new one is meant to go on top with the new top nut since it doesn’t have the built in washer.
h. Once reassembled, put it back in and loosely install the 4 top mount bolts, don’t tighten anything down until its all back in.
i. Reinstall the fork/lower mount using the strut spreader to help. Again put the bolts/nuts in but keep them loose. The shock should bottom out in the lower mount, there is a little lip/tab that keeps it from going all the way through. Remove spreader once it is in place.
j. Reinstall the upper control arms, keeping the bolts loose.
k. Tighten up the bolts as follows:
i. Upper strut mounts:
1. Inner Cowl Bolt
2. Inner Engine Bay Bolt
3. Outer Cowl Bolt
4. Outer Engine Bay Bolt
ii. Jack the suspension up to nominal ride height.
1. Lower shock mount to Control Arm
2. Lower shock mount pinch bolt.
3. Upper control arms, get both sides snug, then have someone push the spindle towards the inside of the car while you tighten them. This will prevent too much unnecessary preload on the bushing and prematurely wearing out.
4. Once everything is in place, the end link can go back in, don’t fully tighten until the car is back on the ground, these are easy to get to from under the car.
l. Wheels on, lower the car, torque wheels, tighten end links. Should look like this when it is all done.
m. Clean up your stuff and go drive the car.
Once you finish your headlights are probably going to be aimed into the dirt so go adjust those too. Find a flat surface (probably a shopping center). They should drop 1 inch from the center of the lens over 25 feet.
Note: I recommend doing this via VCDS to set the new home position to make sure they maintain the proper range for the level motors (could result in soft code if it goes out of the expected range). On newer models, the adaptation is done under 09 – Central Elect / Basic Settings / Group 011. Clcik ON/OFF/NEXT, it will say WAIT, then Adjust headlights, when done click ON/OFF/NEXT again and it will have learned the new home position. Headlights must be in ON, not AUTO, while this is done.
The ride honestly feels better than stock, dive/squat are much better controlled and slide in the corners is very predictable. I have pilot sport a/s 3+ on the car and I will lose traction before I feel the car is at it’s suspension limits. No more roll feeling. So far it dropped about 2”, we will see where it settles out in a couple hundred miles. Was about ~18” from the center of the hub to the fender, and is now about 16”, the back is floating more than the front but will settle around there if I had to guess. Alignment check to follow. Here is a quick before and after, but it had practically 0 miles on it at the time.
The trans mount was an awesome upgrade as well, a little bit of low RPM vibration from the trans now, but it shifts SO much nicer, doesn’t feel like the driveline is bouncing around and hammering the crap out of everything. I HIGHLY recommend it for the 30 bucks, especially if you are tuned and don’t mind a little vibration. I rolled the windows up with the radio off briefly and didn’t really hear any trans whine, but A/C was off and it was only for a minute so can’t speak to that yet. I am guessing the vibration may be a little much for some, but I love it.
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Originally Posted by arjun90
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