Aquapel...thoughts?

[RLwantsS5]

So i live in rainy SW florida i decided to try aquapel over rainx. Any thoughts on how well it works? Can i apply to side glass as well? Anyone else use it? Havent applied yet. But will be next few days.1562104018457.jpeg

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[RLwantsS5]

So i live in rainy SW florida i decided to try aquapel over rainx. Any thoughts on how well it works? Can i apply to side glass as well? Anyone else use it? Havent applied yet. But will be next few days.1562104018457.jpeg

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Btw i plan on using griots glass cleaning clay first then applying1562104203667.jpeg

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[2by2handsofblue]

Btw i plan on using griots glass cleaning clay first then applying1562104203667.jpeg

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Is that for the exterior or interior? How does the griots glass cleaner differ from invisible glass cleaner?

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[RLwantsS5]

Is that for the exterior or interior? How does the griots glass cleaner differ from invisible glass cleaner?

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Its a clay bar for exterior glass. Havent used it yet. It removes contaminents. You would use invisible glass after the clay treatment

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[2by2handsofblue]

Its a clay bar for exterior glass. Havent used it yet. It removes contaminents. You would use invisible glass after the clay treatment

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Oh. Didnt know they had clay bar for windows.
Than I assume its only meant for exterior glass

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[pdqgp]

I don't mind Aquapel. Key to this or any coating is to prep the winshield correctly. I just did a little write up on it.


Glass Coatings; Key lies in the Prep Work

Safe Driving Starts with Good Visibility
Glass Coatings are a great alternative to OTC Rain-X or AquaPel products. The advantage they bring is a more consistent performance free of streaking and the length of time they last. On windshields coatings typically last 6-9 months with upwards of a year is not uncommon. The main point of degradation comes from wear and tear from wipers and the fact that the front of vehicles is constantly being pelted by contaminants that wear away at the protection.

Key to Success
The key to successfully applying a glass coating lies within the preparation of the surface just as it does with paint coatings. Most all the complaints and issues I see with glass coatings can be traced back to improper preparation which leads to uneven application, thus wiper shudder, or a less than prepared surface that leads to contaminants still being present and again, causing wiper shudder or streaking. Lastly, if the glass isn’t prepared the product can not bond effectively thus it simply will not last.



Remove the Contaminants
When preparing for glass coatings, start when washing your vehicle. Use glass clay or a synthetic clay-mitt to remove the surface contaminants such as dirt, grime, road film, tree sap, etc that will simply not be removed by washing alone. I prefer synthetic mitts simply because they are more effective and last longer. Do NOT use regular paint formulated clay as it will tend to get trapped in the microscopic pits of the glass and thus impeding proper bonding leading to the above noted issues. Once trapped, it’s also very difficult to remove.

Once the vehicle is cleaned and dried, the key then becomes getting down to the virgin glass under what still will be on there which includes timeless amounts of road film and sealants. If you notice the water isn’t “clinging” (see top right image) to the window as shown in this photo and instead is beading or leaving streaks of water, then it’s not ready to be coated. Once the glass is cleaned and water clings, it's so thick you can cut through it with a water blade and yet the surface tension will still hold the surrounding water in place. That's a good thing!
(see image below for this in action)



What’s next is to use a fine glass polish and a polishing pad specifically for glass. This will safely remove any remaining layers of film and open up the pores from pitting over time so that the product can fill in those marks and bond effectively leaving a fully level surface that is hydrophobic and super smooth. I like Adam’s Brand Fine Glass Polish and their corresponding glass pads. Adam’s is super easy to wipe off and again, unlike traditional polishes meant for paint, will not fill in the pores that are now exposed.

CarPro CeriGlass is another good alternative but overkill for coating applications and if not used in the hands of a skilled person will actually scour or scratch your windows, so consider your experience level and understanding of the product before attempting to use it.

Final Step
Once the polishing is done and wiped away, I like to use denatured alcohol and some paint prep spray to give it a final once over to remove all traces of anything. From there, a final wipe down with a good window cleaner to leave a perfectly smooth and clean glass layer ready for your coating is all that’s needed. I like Stoner’s Invisible Glass as my go-to cleaner for both inside and outside of windows.

Now you’re all set and ready to apply your window coating of choice. Just be sure to follow their respective instructions closely and going forward, avoid using any detail sprays, waxes or sealants on the windshield portion of the vehicle with wipers as they can lead to shuddering or poor performance over time. On side windows, I’m okay with spraying them but here too, anything you apply to the glass will tend to overpower the properties of your glass coating thus leading to more beading vs sheeting.
Good luck and enjoy your now clear vision!

[2by2handsofblue]

I don't mind Aquapel. Key to this or any coating is to prep the winshield correctly. I just did a little write up on it.


Glass Coatings; Key lies in the Prep Work

Safe Driving Starts with Good Visibility
Glass Coatings are a great alternative to OTC Rain-X or AquaPel products. The advantage they bring is a more consistent performance free of streaking and the length of time they last. On windshields coatings typically last 6-9 months with upwards of a year is not uncommon. The main point of degradation comes from wear and tear from wipers and the fact that the front of vehicles is constantly being pelted by contaminants that wear away at the protection.

Key to Success
The key to successfully applying a glass coating lies within the preparation of the surface just as it does with paint coatings. Most all the complaints and issues I see with glass coatings can be traced back to improper preparation which leads to uneven application, thus wiper shudder, or a less than prepared surface that leads to contaminants still being present and again, causing wiper shudder or streaking. Lastly, if the glass isn’t prepared the product can not bond effectively thus it simply will not last.



Remove the Contaminants
When preparing for glass coatings, start when washing your vehicle. Use glass clay or a synthetic clay-mitt to remove the surface contaminants such as dirt, grime, road film, tree sap, etc that will simply not be removed by washing alone. I prefer synthetic mitts simply because they are more effective and last longer. Do NOT use regular paint formulated clay as it will tend to get trapped in the microscopic pits of the glass and thus impeding proper bonding leading to the above noted issues. Once trapped, it’s also very difficult to remove.

Once the vehicle is cleaned and dried, the key then becomes getting down to the virgin glass under what still will be on there which includes timeless amounts of road film and sealants. If you notice the water isn’t “clinging” (see top right image) to the window as shown in this photo and instead is beading or leaving streaks of water, then it’s not ready to be coated. Once the glass is cleaned and water clings, it's so thick you can cut through it with a water blade and yet the surface tension will still hold the surrounding water in place. That's a good thing!
(see image below for this in action)



What’s next is to use a fine glass polish and a polishing pad specifically for glass. This will safely remove any remaining layers of film and open up the pores from pitting over time so that the product can fill in those marks and bond effectively leaving a fully level surface that is hydrophobic and super smooth. I like Adam’s Brand Fine Glass Polish and their corresponding glass pads. Adam’s is super easy to wipe off and again, unlike traditional polishes meant for paint, will not fill in the pores that are now exposed.

CarPro CeriGlass is another good alternative but overkill for coating applications and if not used in the hands of a skilled person will actually scour or scratch your windows, so consider your experience level and understanding of the product before attempting to use it.

Final Step
Once the polishing is done and wiped away, I like to use denatured alcohol and some paint prep spray to give it a final once over to remove all traces of anything. From there, a final wipe down with a good window cleaner to leave a perfectly smooth and clean glass layer ready for your coating is all that’s needed. I like Stoner’s Invisible Glass as my go-to cleaner for both inside and outside of windows.

Now you’re all set and ready to apply your window coating of choice. Just be sure to follow their respective instructions closely and going forward, avoid using any detail sprays, waxes or sealants on the windshield portion of the vehicle with wipers as they can lead to shuddering or poor performance over time. On side windows, I’m okay with spraying them but here too, anything you apply to the glass will tend to overpower the properties of your glass coating thus leading to more beading vs sheeting.
Good luck and enjoy your now clear vision!

A video would be nice too

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[pdqgp]

A video would be nice too

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I have one I'll repost later. Its me polishing with Ceriglass but the rest is the same.

EDIT: Here's a link to the video. It's a bit older and my process has changed some but overall you get the idea. https://youtu.be/Dc7-bTV3aTs

[2by2handsofblue]

I have one I'll repost later. Its me polishing with Ceriglass but the rest is the same.

EDIT: Here's a link to the video. It's a bit older and my process has changed some but overall you get the idea. https://youtu.be/Dc7-bTV3aTs

Thanks. If u make a update plz let us know

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[2by2handsofblue]

I have one I'll repost later. Its me polishing with Ceriglass but the rest is the same.

EDIT: Here's a link to the video. It's a bit older and my process has changed some but overall you get the idea. https://youtu.be/Dc7-bTV3aTs

Can give us links to the synthetic clay Mitt and other accessories u use to clean the glass?

How about using a razor blade?

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[RLwantsS5]

I don't mind Aquapel. Key to this or any coating is to prep the winshield correctly. I just did a little write up on it.


Glass Coatings; Key lies in the Prep Work

Safe Driving Starts with Good Visibility
Glass Coatings are a great alternative to OTC Rain-X or AquaPel products. The advantage they bring is a more consistent performance free of streaking and the length of time they last. On windshields coatings typically last 6-9 months with upwards of a year is not uncommon. The main point of degradation comes from wear and tear from wipers and the fact that the front of vehicles is constantly being pelted by contaminants that wear away at the protection.

Key to Success
The key to successfully applying a glass coating lies within the preparation of the surface just as it does with paint coatings. Most all the complaints and issues I see with glass coatings can be traced back to improper preparation which leads to uneven application, thus wiper shudder, or a less than prepared surface that leads to contaminants still being present and again, causing wiper shudder or streaking. Lastly, if the glass isn’t prepared the product can not bond effectively thus it simply will not last.



Remove the Contaminants
When preparing for glass coatings, start when washing your vehicle. Use glass clay or a synthetic clay-mitt to remove the surface contaminants such as dirt, grime, road film, tree sap, etc that will simply not be removed by washing alone. I prefer synthetic mitts simply because they are more effective and last longer. Do NOT use regular paint formulated clay as it will tend to get trapped in the microscopic pits of the glass and thus impeding proper bonding leading to the above noted issues. Once trapped, it’s also very difficult to remove.

Once the vehicle is cleaned and dried, the key then becomes getting down to the virgin glass under what still will be on there which includes timeless amounts of road film and sealants. If you notice the water isn’t “clinging” (see top right image) to the window as shown in this photo and instead is beading or leaving streaks of water, then it’s not ready to be coated. Once the glass is cleaned and water clings, it's so thick you can cut through it with a water blade and yet the surface tension will still hold the surrounding water in place. That's a good thing!
(see image below for this in action)



What’s next is to use a fine glass polish and a polishing pad specifically for glass. This will safely remove any remaining layers of film and open up the pores from pitting over time so that the product can fill in those marks and bond effectively leaving a fully level surface that is hydrophobic and super smooth. I like Adam’s Brand Fine Glass Polish and their corresponding glass pads. Adam’s is super easy to wipe off and again, unlike traditional polishes meant for paint, will not fill in the pores that are now exposed.

CarPro CeriGlass is another good alternative but overkill for coating applications and if not used in the hands of a skilled person will actually scour or scratch your windows, so consider your experience level and understanding of the product before attempting to use it.

Final Step
Once the polishing is done and wiped away, I like to use denatured alcohol and some paint prep spray to give it a final once over to remove all traces of anything. From there, a final wipe down with a good window cleaner to leave a perfectly smooth and clean glass layer ready for your coating is all that’s needed. I like Stoner’s Invisible Glass as my go-to cleaner for both inside and outside of windows.

Now you’re all set and ready to apply your window coating of choice. Just be sure to follow their respective instructions closely and going forward, avoid using any detail sprays, waxes or sealants on the windshield portion of the vehicle with wipers as they can lead to shuddering or poor performance over time. On side windows, I’m okay with spraying them but here too, anything you apply to the glass will tend to overpower the properties of your glass coating thus leading to more beading vs sheeting.
Good luck and enjoy your now clear vision!

Thanks for the write up!
I have the glass clay, the glass polish, and also a glass sealant. Can i layer the aquapel on top of the sealant or am i wasting my time?

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[pdqgp]

Can give us links to the synthetic clay Mitt and other accessories u use to clean the glass?

How about using a razor blade?

I use Nanoskin products and like them. No need for razor unless you're trying to clean off stickers or like. Adam's fine glass polish and their corresponding glass pads on a polisher is good.

Can i layer the aquapel on top of the sealant or am i wasting my time?

Skip the sealant as it will inhibit the bond from Aquapel.

[RLwantsS5]

I use Nanoskin products and like them. No need for razor unless you're trying to clean off stickers or like. Adam's fine glass polish and their corresponding glass pads on a polisher is good.




Skip the sealant as it will inhibit the bond from Aquapel.

Welp...i wish i read this 45 mins ago. I layered the aquapel on top of the selant.

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[pdqgp]

Welp...i wish i read this 45 mins ago. I layered the aquapel on top of the selant.

Don't sweat it. If there' an issue it will be in that you might see some streaking or wiper chatter down the road as the Aquapel loses it's adhesion. If that's the case then re-polish and apply. My guess is the application and effectiveness may be diminished is all.

[2by2handsofblue]

Can you provide links to some of the tools use to polish and clean the car windshield?

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[pdqgp]

Can you provide links to some of the tools use to polish and clean the car windshield?

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Rupes Mille or Flex 3401 Polishers. Those are two I use but if you're just a weekend warrior, a good Griot's Boss unit will be solid for you. You could obviously go for a much cheaper weekend warrior polisher but I will tell you honestly they are worth it given they stall out too easily and slow so much on anything but flat surfaces that you'll really spend all day detailing a car. Personally I do this for money on the weekends but even before that I used a Flex unit because my time is valuable. A forced rotation unit is the way to go IMO.
Adams Glass Clay or a Nanokin Mitt
Adam's Glass Pads for the Adams Fine Glass Polish
Ceriglass - save that for the pros but if you use it, it must be used with their corresponding rayon pads or you could damage the glass
3D Eraser Gel is great for water spots on glass or paint. Read closely as you shouldn't leave it on glass more than 1 minute.

[2by2handsofblue]

Thanks. I'll try the weekend warrior stuff lol


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[RLwantsS5]

Well its been raining since my application of those products (glass clay, glass polish, glass sealant and aquapel), holy...shyt. it was downpouring past few days i never once had to use my wipers. At 25mph the water just sheds off the windshield. I actually parked the car, smoked a cig and watched the water falling off my windshield and 2 side windows.

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[2by2handsofblue]

Well its been raining since my application of those products (glass clay, glass polish, glass sealant and aquapel), holy...shyt. it was downpouring past few days i never once had to use my wipers. At 25mph the water just sheds off the windshield. I actually parked the car, smoked a cig and watched the water falling off my windshield and 2 side windows.

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[2by2handsofblue]

Well its been raining since my application of those products (glass clay, glass polish, glass sealant and aquapel), holy...shyt. it was downpouring past few days i never once had to use my wipers. At 25mph the water just sheds off the windshield. I actually parked the car, smoked a cig and watched the water falling off my windshield and 2 side windows.

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What about the rest of the windows on your?

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[2by2handsofblue]

Well its been raining since my application of those products (glass clay, glass polish, glass sealant and aquapel), holy...shyt. it was downpouring past few days i never once had to use my wipers. At 25mph the water just sheds off the windshield. I actually parked the car, smoked a cig and watched the water falling off my windshield and 2 side windows.

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How long did it take u to do it

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[RLwantsS5]

How long did it take u to do it

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Not long, after i washed the car, the clay bar took about 10 mins for the 3 windows, polish was another 10. Sealant another 10. Aquapel took about 5. Bout 30 mins avg for windshield and 2 side windows. Gonna do back 2 and rear window in a couple days. It was a real feel of 108° when i did it. Even in the garage i was sweating profusely so i took my time. Probably take less with cooler weather.

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[2by2handsofblue]

Not long, after i washed the car, the clay bar took about 10 mins for the 3 windows, polish was another 10. Sealant another 10. Aquapel took about 5. Bout 30 mins avg for windshield and 2 side windows. Gonna do back 2 and rear window in a couple days. It was a real feel of 108° when i did it. Even in the garage i was sweating profusely so i took my time. Probably take less with cooler weather.

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Which brand of glass clay, polish and sealant did you use?

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[pdqgp]

Glad it all worked out my friend!

[RLwantsS5]

Which brand of glass clay, polish and sealant did you use?

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In order 20190708_121332.jpeg

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[RLwantsS5]

Glad it all worked out my friend!

Yes thanks! It rained hard again this a.m. never used my wipers. This stuff is just lovely to use and really im surprised most people dont treat their windows the visibility is just ridiculous

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[2by2handsofblue]

In order 20190708_121332.jpeg

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Thanks.

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[Audibot]

One thing to add I do is use a razor blade on the windshield (with cleaner as a lubricant) after I initially clean it but before I clay it. This scrapes up any burrs of glass and some remaining and/or stubborn contaminants that wouldn't remove with a clay bar. Then clay, polish, and seal as stated.

[2by2handsofblue]

One thing to add I do is use a razor blade on the windshield (with cleaner as a lubricant) after I initially clean it but before I clay it. This scrapes up any burrs of glass and some remaining and/or stubborn contaminants that wouldn't remove with a clay bar. Then clay, polish, and seal as stated.

But I dont want to scratch the window on accident. I know it needs to be at a 45 degree angle. But still. A little worried.
I went to the dollar store and found a large wide razor blade with a handle for this type of thing.
I'll take a pic and post it on here.

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[2by2handsofblue]

Here's the scrapper that I got for $1

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