Ohlins VWS MT21 Coilover KIt

[P5stunna]

Anyone running Ohlins VWS MT21 coilovers on their RS3? How's the ride quality and ease of installation? I just placed my order and should have them next week.



In case anyone asks, order them through RE Suspension in Mooresville, NC.

[cseaman]

I have no feedback but have some questions. Did you spec a car with fixed suspension? If not, is it easy to 'turn off' magnetic so that the car isn't freaking out in VCDS?

[P5stunna]

I have no feedback but have some questions. Did you spec a car with fixed suspension? If not, is it easy to 'turn off' magnetic so that the car isn't freaking out in VCDS?

No did not spec for fixed suspension. I also ordered a MRC delete kit that costs $410. I have no idea if MRC can be turned off easily and if it can I'd rather do that and save some money. I have an Obdeleven pro I can use if it's possible.

[RSKYBET]

Is VWS MT21 based on R&T dampers?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[P5stunna]

Is VWS MT21 based on R&T dampers?


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

Yes.

From Ohlins:

The Öhlins Road & Track suspension gives our customers a true racing experience, with their own cars, without losing comfort when commuting to work. Our unique Dual Flow Valve (DFV) technology allows you to quickly change the stiffness of the shock absorber. When arriving to the racetrack, just turn the golden knob clockwise on the damper to set it in race mode this action changes all four areas in the damper; low and high speed compression and rebound damping.

With Öhlins Road & Track coil overs you will experience a car with blistering response times, improved bump absorption and a massive amount of grip to increase the safety when driving your car on the limit. The car will be easier to balance on the edge of what the tires can handle before losing grip. You will be much quicker on track. The DFV suspension prevents you from losing the racing line when hitting bumps or curbs. The DFV components within react quickly and keeps you in control of the car and in contact with the track. When driving to and from the track, just set the dampers in road mode for a more relaxed and comfortable drive, still with more grip and quicker response time than ever before.

[Paul@SupremePower]

I can get get the VTS MT21 kits ordered if any one is interested:

[Paul@SupremePower]

I have no feedback but have some questions. Did you spec a car with fixed suspension? If not, is it easy to 'turn off' magnetic so that the car isn't freaking out in VCDS?

No did not spec for fixed suspension. I also ordered a MRC delete kit that costs $410. I have no idea if MRC can be turned off easily and if it can I'd rather do that and save some money. I have an Obdeleven pro I can use if it's possible.

If you have mag ride you’ll need a DTC cancellation kit like the one they offer; it can’t be addressed with VCDS. I Sweep also makes a proven 8V DTC Kit

[hckymstr19]

I can get get the VTS MT21 kits ordered if any one is interested:

How much?

[P5stunna]

How much?

$2790 coilovers
$410 MRC delete kit

[jd_rs3]

$2790 coilovers
$410 MRC delete kit

crazy!

[ReallyNotHalvie]

crazy!

In a good or bad way? Doesn't seem too bad.

[Jeff_Jeske]

This is my third vehicle with Ohlins DFV coilovers. I purchased thru Vorshlag as I didn't know Paul was a dealer. I also had mine revalved to 10K front 8K rear. I haven't installed these yet because I didn't want to miss track time during the transition. My plan is to install next week and test them the following week at another track day.

[P5stunna]

If anyone is interested in getting these Ohlins save yourself some money and order them from Paul at Supreme Power. I went with a local supplier here in NC thinking I'd get a better price because Ohlins USA is out here but that wasn't the case. I overspent by a couple hundred bucks.

[P5stunna]

Drove 2.5 hours to pick up my ohlins because I'm that type of guy that just can't wait for stuff. lol My MRC delete kit is being shipped from Ohlins Sweden because apparently the kits they have here in the states are not the right ones or there is a known issue with them. Can't wait to get these on and will post pics once its dialed in.

[Paul@SupremePower]

Right on. Such a nice kit.

[Patrick_l52]

Drove 2.5 hours to pick up my ohlins because I'm that type of guy that just can't wait for stuff. lol My MRC delete kit is being shipped from Ohlins Sweden because apparently the kits they have here in the states are not the right ones or there is a known issue with them. Can't wait to get these on and will post pics once its dialed in.

please share the review after installed

[P5stunna]

I decided to order new mounts for the ohlins because I think one of the embedded nuts on one of the oem front mount is stripped, plus, I don't want to de-pin the rear MRC connectors just to reuse the oem mounts. I've got some 034 mounts coming and will use them instead for this installation. The price of the new mounts were reasonable IMO.

[OCTA1NE]

I decided to order new mounts for the ohlins because I think one of the embedded nuts on one of the oem front mount is stripped, plus, I don't want to de-pin the rear MRC connectors just to reuse the oem mounts. I've got some 034 mounts coming and will use them instead for this installation. The price of the new mounts were reasonable IMO.

Why would you not go with the 034 camber mounts for the front if you're installing coilovers? I have heard a few issues with the 034 standard front mounts. Rears are spot on. I use them in mine and the camber mounts in the front.

[P5stunna]

Why would you not go with the 034 camber mounts for the front if you're installing coilovers? I have heard a few issues with the 034 standard front mounts. Rears are spot on. I use them in mine and the camber mounts in the front.

I consulted with a reputable shop on whether or not I needed camber plates and was told they were not necessary for street use. Lowering the car automatically adds negative camber and the 034 camber plates would just add an additional 1.4 degrees of negative camber which I don't need. If anything, I would want to have more positive camber after lowering a car if I wanted my tires to last longer. What issues have you heard with the 034 standard front mounts?

[OE2]

Camber doesn’t wear tires if you get a proper alignment (unless you’re talking beyond -3)

[P5stunna]

Got my 034 mounts and I’m so glad I did. It made my install much easier.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I didn't want to dick around with the magride BS so I went to the dealer and picked up new OEM shock mounts today (part number 8V0-513-353). I must say I'm a bit shocked to see how the coilover shock assembly attaches to the shock mount.

In your pics above you can see you used the 10mm spacer that goes over the threaded portion of the shock. Then the top mount slides on and sits on that spacer. Lastly a self locking nut goes on the threaded portion and is tightened down sandwiching the top mount between the spacer and nut. That's it!

Seriously there is next to no support for that shaft!!! That just looks wrong to me but I double checked it a couple times.

[rex_racer]

I didn't want to dick around with the magride BS so I went to the dealer and picked up new OEM shock mounts today (part number 8V0-513-353). I must say I'm a bit shocked to see how the coilover shock assembly attaches to the shock mount.

In your pics above you can see you used the 10mm spacer that goes over the threaded portion of the shock. Then the top mount slides on and sits on that spacer. Lastly a self locking nut goes on the threaded portion and is tightened down sandwiching the top mount between the spacer and nut. That's it!

Seriously there is next to no support for that shaft!!! That just looks wrong to me but I double checked it a couple times.

The shock doesn't support any weight, so the mounting can be quite simplistic. Ideally the upper mount would be an articulating bearing for even greater dampening control.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I sure hope you are right!

I have yet another question .... if the magride connection is north of the shock mount where is the best place to mount the magride eliminator?

I so wish there was a hack to eliminate the magride via coding rather than trick focking the module via dummy load.

[P5stunna]

I sure hope you are right!

I have yet another question .... if the magride connection is north of the shock mount where is the best place to mount the magride eliminator?

I so wish there was a hack to eliminate the magride via coding rather than trick focking the module via dummy load.

I'll be zip tying mine on top of the rear mount and on the shaft for the fronts.

[rex_racer]

I sure hope you are right!

I have yet another question .... if the magride connection is north of the shock mount where is the best place to mount the magride eliminator?

I so wish there was a hack to eliminate the magride via coding rather than trick focking the module via dummy load.

It'll be fine. The spring supports all the load. The shock just smooths out the motion. This is why the chassis where mount attaches is also so thin. This has been the way its been for about 2 decades or so with this and similar VW platforms, not even counting every other make that does a similar setup.

If you can fit the iSweeps up in the liner, I would leave them up there, try to attach to the mount as mentioned. If not, others have mounted it down on the shock, just be mindful to mount it down lower so its away from the tire. Unfortunately the iSweeps are the only way to do this. Another company claimed to have been able to do it, but required a number of modules, rewiring and recoding, basically rebuilding the car. Not worth the time, or the money even according to them.

[WAF]

In regards to Mag ride equipped vehicles has there been an confirmed fix or product for eliminating any cel's. I've used a KW EDC delete kit before with good luck but heard its a lil different on the MBQ platform.

[Jeff_Jeske]

In regards to Mag ride equipped vehicles has there been an confirmed fix or product for eliminating any cel's. I've used a KW EDC delete kit before with good luck but heard its a lil different on the MBQ platform.

I purchased the Ohlins option which some say has the same markings as the KW kit. They could be sourced from the same manufacturer.



If they don't work I am going to be royally pissed off. I'm still a bit concerned about cable routing in the rear as the wires normally go through the center whole but now need new routing. I may have to drill a hole and add a grommet.

[Paul@SupremePower]

In regards to Mag ride equipped vehicles has there been an confirmed fix or product for eliminating any cel's. I've used a KW EDC delete kit before with good luck but heard its a lil different on the MBQ platform.

ISweep has a proven kit for 8v

[Jeff_Jeske]

The reason I went with the Ohlins option is the two year warranty. Looks like I will be the beta test for them.

[P5stunna]

Thanks to @Paul@SupremePower for getting me the iSWEEP cancellation kit so quickly. Ohlins was dicking me around about having theirs shipped directly from Sweden. I can finally finish this project and get my car back on the road later today.

[Paul@SupremePower]

Thanks to @Paul@SupremePower for getting me the iSWEEP cancellation kit so quickly. Ohlins was dicking me around about having theirs shipped directly from Sweden. I can finally finish this project and get my car back on the road later today.

Glad you got it addressed. Looking forward to this set up 🤙

[ReallyNotHalvie]

Reviews when someone has a chance please.

[Jeff_Jeske]

I too have to thank Paul for overnighting me the isweep cancelers. Accidents happen and the first couple Ohlins kits were shipped with the wrong cancelers. I immediately called Paul and he was able to get me the correct cancelers in less than 24 hours. I can confirm these work as advertised.

[Jeff_Jeske]

For those of you entertaining the Vorshlag camber plates, they fit perfectly and no modification was required to the strut mount.... BUT .... a minor thing .... the bolts used to secure the plate to the mount are longer than the OEM bolts. Two out of three fit without issue but the third bolt is a bit longer than it needs to be which creates contact between the plastic cover and the bolt. I didn't notice this until the car was corner balanced and aligned so rather than cut the bolt down or replace it with a shorter one I just trimmed the plastic piece. I may actually open up the entire top hat area to occasionally check torque spec of those bolts. It's no big deal for me as this is not visible with the hood closed. Keep in mind this is a TTRS not an RS3 so I'm not sure if there will be similar issues.

[P5stunna]

Reviews when someone has a chance please.

I wish I could provide a meaningful review on the Ohlins by now but I've run into some minor issues. The kit came with 8" Swift springs, part numbers Z65-203-070 (392 lbs/inch) and Z65-203-080 (448 lbs/in). I installed the 080 springs in the front and 070 in the rear. The issues I have are [1] this barely nets a 1/2 inch drop in ride height and [2] the rear sags too low when my 6 and 12 year old get in and they don't even weigh that much. I can only imagine how bottomed out it'd look if two adults sat in the back or if the trunk was packed. In hindsight, I should have probably used the 080 springs for the rear. The ride quality is fine as-is but I want to go much lower in the front. I've ordered 7" Swift springs Z65-173-080 for the front and plan to move the 8" 080 to the rear.

[Paul@SupremePower]

I too have to thank Paul for overnighting me the isweep cancelers. Accidents happen and the first couple Ohlins kits were shipped with the wrong cancelers. I immediately called Paul and he was able to get me the correct cancelers in less than 24 hours. I can confirm these work as advertised.

Glad I could help you out in a pinch!

I hope Ohlins is making it right for sending you the wrong kit.

[Jeff_Jeske]

The kit came with 8" Swift springs, part numbers Z65-203-070 (392 lbs/inch) and Z65-203-080 (448 lbs/in).

I'm on day one and trying to determine if I like the valving I went with so I can't truly comment on whether I love it just yet. I haven't even fiddled with the adjusters and they are currently setting -10 clicks from full stiff.

You and I have the same rear 450lbs or 8K but I went higher in the front for track duty. So I'm running 560lbs or 10k fronts. These feel fine when being worked on a smooth surface and pretty good on the typical highway but in town on rough pavement the more direct connection with the wheels is noticeable. You do feel that contact patch whether it's good or bad. No surprises but probably only recommended for people that track their car. I'm willing to bet and 8k front and 8k rear would be perfect for street duty. But that is one good things about ohlins, they are valved wide enough to handle +-2k spring. Technically I could swap front and rear springs and not require revalve. In your case I do find it odd that two kids could cause sagging on a linear 8k spring as that has little to do with the valving and everything to do with the spring.

Let us know how the 7" springs work out for you.

[ReallyNotHalvie]

I wish I could provide a meaningful review on the Ohlins by now but I've run into some minor issues. The kit came with 8" Swift springs, part numbers Z65-203-070 (392 lbs/inch) and Z65-203-080 (448 lbs/in). I installed the 080 springs in the front and 070 in the rear. The issues I have are [1] this barely nets a 1/2 inch drop in ride height and [2] the rear sags too low when my 6 and 12 year old get in and they don't even weigh that much. I can only imagine how bottomed out it'd look if two adults sat in the back or if the trunk was packed. In hindsight, I should have probably used the 080 springs for the rear. The ride quality is fine as-is but I want to go much lower in the front. I've ordered 7" Swift springs Z65-173-080 for the front and plan to move the 8" 080 to the rear.

Do you know why you got the swift springs and not the ones they list the kit having? Are the springs on backwards? From product page image posted here (or here: https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/au...springs--6676/) it looks like 70nm in front and 80nm in the rear.

[P5stunna]

Do you know why you got the swift springs and not the ones they list the kit having? Are the springs on backwards? From product page image posted here (or here: https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/au...springs--6676/) it looks like 70nm in front and 80nm in the rear.

I don't know why Swift springs came with the kit but I am assuming Swift is Ohlins' spring supplier. Yes, I think I should have used the 070 springs for the front. I deduced that after I noticing how much the rear sagged when my kids got in. Unfortunately, the instructions don't specify which spring goes in the front or back.