Brake rotor screw stripped - advice?

[egli05]

All,

I am doing front rotors and pads on my 12' A7 and he driver side rotor screw does't want to play nice. With minimal force using a wrench and torx attachment, it stripped fairly easily.

Has anyone run into this and have any advice? I am attempting a bit like the Grabit to remove, but having no luck.

I was able to use my cutting piece on my dremmel to make slots to fit a flathead in there but can't cut deep enough to get any real traction. I guess my next option is a reverse drill bit?

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

[Gwillplays]

If the head of the screw broke off, just continue to remove the rotor. The remaining stud should be lubed with penetrating fluid then removed. I would replace all the retaining screws. GL


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[Lilrckt]

Agree with gwill, but if the head isn't off yet and you can't get it out, just drill the head off to get the rotor off


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[Audibot]

I encountered this same issue on my buddy's Hyundais (which each use 2 screws per disc) when I helped him change his brakes. Wound up purchasing a SpeedOut from either Home Depot or Lowes. It's nice. #3 worked great. Just insert it drill-bit sit out, drill it, and then reverse the bit and back it out (drilling/removing all in reverse).

Additionally, replacement rotor screws can also be found there. Countersunk, same diameter and threading. Only difference being phillips head and cheaper. Bring one in with you for comparison. Anti-seize the sucker going back in and you shouldn't have the issue again.

Another removal tool to consider is an handheld impact driver. Harbor Freight sells them. Basically, you insert a bit into the tip, line it all up, and then hit the head of the tool with a hammer. The blow of the hammer ensures contact while simultaneously rotating the bit.

[Valpo A7]

rotor.JPG

If you are talking about the small screw that goes in the circled hole, it serves no purpose beyond the assembly line. It is intended as a "keeper" to keep the rotor on the car as it moves down the assembly line. Once the caliper and brake pads are on the car it cannot fall off during the assembly line move and once the wheels are on and properly torqued the rotor has no where to go.


If this is the screw you speak of, just drill the head out and finish the brake job. grind it flush once the rotor is off or just remember to always index the rotor to that position to line up what is left of the screw with the existing hole in the rotor.


Absolutely no reason/purpose for that screw once the car is off the assembly line.

[gimpgutter]

I encountered this same issue on my buddy's Hyundais (which each use 2 screws per disc) when I helped him change his brakes. Wound up purchasing a SpeedOut from either Home Depot or Lowes. It's nice. #3 worked great. Just insert it drill-bit sit out, drill it, and then reverse the bit and back it out (drilling/removing all in reverse).

Additionally, replacement rotor screws can also be found there. Countersunk, same diameter and threading. Only difference being phillips head and cheaper. Bring one in with you for comparison. Anti-seize the sucker going back in and you shouldn't have the issue again.

Another removal tool to consider is an handheld impact driver. Harbor Freight sells them. Basically, you insert a bit into the tip, line it all up, and then hit the head of the tool with a hammer. The blow of the hammer ensures contact while simultaneously rotating the bit.

I've used both the SpeedOut method and purchased an impact driver. On my old Accord, the hammer-driver worked great for getting out the rusted rotor screw. The fact that it pushed into the head as it rotates should keep it from stripping out in most situations. About 6 years of being by the coast in the salt belt made that screw extra rusty.

[egli05]

rotor.JPG

If you are talking about the small screw that goes in the circled hole, it serves no purpose beyond the assembly line. It is intended as a "keeper" to keep the rotor on the car as it moves down the assembly line. Once the caliper and brake pads are on the car it cannot fall off during the assembly line move and once the wheels are on and properly torqued the rotor has no where to go.


If this is the screw you speak of, just drill the head out and finish the brake job. grind it flush once the rotor is off or just remember to always index the rotor to that position to line up what is left of the screw with the existing hole in the rotor.


Absolutely no reason/purpose for that screw once the car is off the assembly line.

Thanks all - this is what I ended up doing. The Grabit didn't work, but I just used it to remove the head of the screw and didnt bother drilling out the screw because as you said, it just used for alignment. After inspecting, the driver side which was the side that was problematic, as incredibly rusty. It was a northeast car for 6 years so it doesn't surprise me.

I will be tackling the rears tomorrow, and hope I don't run into the same issue.

[AUDIofil]

I run into the same issue on passenger rear rotor. Used SpeedOut and was able to get that screw out. It took me a few tries mainly because I didn't drill deep enough hole.

[Audibot]

I like to put in the rotor screw just to help hold the disc in place when I am positioning the caliper and wheel. Plus without it, the disc can spin independent of the hub, making it a bit harder to line up the lugs.

I know there's a tool for aligning it all, but it's often faster for me to do it all by hand and a lug, so long as nothing else moves.

[db12]

You can actually "re thread" the stripped head by using a small flat head and a hammer. place the flat head on the screw and give it a couple solid whacks in the desired pattern. I would recommend using a socket wrench vs a screwdriver to remove it. You can apply better pressure and more torque. If that fails take it to a standard brake shop and they can take it out for you for a minimal fee