NGK copper plugs with antiseize?

[dithmartfitness]

So I was wondering if I could gain some first hand insight on using antiseize when installed the NGK copper plugs. I've always thought it was a great idea, until I typed this question into the internet. They say it reduces torque values by 20 percent and not to. What do you guys think? Anyone had any issues? And which base of antiseize to use if you think it's a good idea? Thank you for the insight in advance! And I apologize if this seems like a redundant question, I just am aiming for optimum outcomes here. I realize with these plugs I'll need to change them often, but I was sent in this direction by folks on this forum.

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[maurizio]

likely you will replace those plugs often enough that you wont need to worry about them seizing. The long life plugs on the other hand.....

[old guy]

Do not use anything on the threads. It isn't necessary. Here's what NGK says:

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as 'trivalent plating'. This is a silver-or-chrome coloured finish on the threads that is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture, chemicals and weathering. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal.

[dithmartfitness]

Do not use anything on the threads. It isn't necessary. Here's what NGK says:

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as 'trivalent plating'. This is a silver-or-chrome coloured finish on the threads that is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture, chemicals and weathering. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal.

Yup that's what I thought


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[Charles.waite]

Never used anti-sieze, never had a plug be remotely hard to remove. Don't bother with it.

[RDA990]

Used it last time I changed plugs but after reading the info in this thread I won't any longer.

Never used anti-sieze, never had a plug be remotely hard to remove. Don't bother with it.

I literally had to use a breaker bar to remove a set of spark plugs on one of the B6s. I forgot to check what kind they were but I'm guessing they were BKR6E's that I left on for much longer than 5k miles.

[shurur9]

I use nickel anti seize.
I'd rather use it and not perhaps end up breaking a plug.

[BumblebVR6]

I use nickel anti seize.
I'd rather use it and not perhaps end up breaking a plug.

You'll end up over torquing and stripping the threads in the head. Best not to use anything. Make sure to blow the access holes before spark plug removal to keep from grit getting in upon removal.

[Charles.waite]

I use nickel anti seize.
I'd rather use it and not perhaps end up breaking a plug.

But the point is that NGK (and I’m sure Bosch as well) already have an anti-siege coating...so you don’t need two, and the lubrication messes with torque values making them super easy to overtorque, then you risk stripping out the aluminum head, breaking the plug, or worse.

All because “it couldn’t hurt”. It’s simply not necessary. I’ve have Bosch Double Platinums in my 2.0t for the past 30-40k and when I remove them I fully expect them to come out with no issues.

[Seerlah]

I'm one of those guys that always use anti-sieze, and will continue to do so. I run Bosch FR5DTC plugs, which last roughly 25k. Prior, ran Bosch F6DTC...still used anti-seize.

[Charles.waite]

You rebel!

[jpulll]

Image1560377513.454905.jpg

I don’t see any need for anti-seize.


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[shurur9]

but it's about what I want..not what others think I do or don't need..;-)

[Seerlah]

If you strip your head torquing spark plugs, that's on you. If you can't feel the threads stripping vs the tq wrench locked to final torquing spec...stop working on your car and let Pep Boys handle the situation. I personally use anti-seize for a peace of mind, but that's just me.

[shurur9]

If you strip your head torquing spark plugs, that's on you. If you can't feel the threads stripping vs the tq wrench locked to final torquing spec...stop working on your car and let Pep Boys handle the situation. I personally use anti-seize for a peace of mind, but that's just me.

What torque wrench?
I use gutentite torque spec on all my cars.

[Seerlah]

Cheapo Harbor Freight. I have a Craftsman digital one I built my engine with, but use the cheapo one for simple stuff like spark plugs.

The gudentite method has also proven efficient, with proper feeler method. I don't use tq specs on just about anything on my car. But when engine related, I use tq specs on many parts (almost all).

[shurur9]

Cheapo Harbor Freight. I have a Craftsman digital one I built my engine with, but use the cheapo one for simple stuff like spark plugs.

The gudentite method has also proven efficient, with proper feeler method. I don't use tq specs on just about anything on my car. But when engine related, I use tq specs on many parts (almost all).

I would definitely use torque specs on any motor build...and I do have torque wrenches..one hf and two others through amazon for various ranges..some overlap a bit.

my 99 mustang cobra has the dreaded 4 thread c-heads. I haven't f'd those up yet..

[Charles.waite]

Cheapo Harbor Freight. I have a Craftsman digital one I built my engine with, but use the cheapo one for simple stuff like spark plugs.

The gudentite method has also proven efficient, with proper feeler method. I don't use tq specs on just about anything on my car. But when engine related, I use tq specs on many parts (almost all).

I’m the same way. Torque specs on vital parts like brakes and engine. Not so much on most other things. Gutentight is just fine when you get a feel for it.

[Kevin C]

I pulled a set of NGK double platinums out this weekend, they had a about 40,000 miles and were installed dry. The last plug started to bind up about four turns out. I started it back the other way and it was loose for a couple of turns and I started it back out again. Three turns and it was even tighter with that sick feeling like your taking threads out of the head.

A blast of WD 40 , let it soak in and I worked it back and forth a few times. The friction went down and it came out without taking the threads out. It was really , really close to seizing. I had a couple of small aluminum shavings and that was it. I'm not convinced on the no anti seize theory. Still, that's how I put my new set in...

Also, once you take a set of plugs out all bets are off since it's likely you have now lost the coating.

I'm probably going back to a light coat and set the plugs at 20% less torque.