DIY 4" Intake Elbow for APR Turbo Inlet System

[jd_rs3]

Purchase this filter: Green Filter #2893 (or whatever 4" ID filter your heart desires). I like this one because it's grey and dual cone, so it sucks in air right from the factory air ducting. https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-.../dp/B00DDTN1XI

**If you want to retain the factory air ducting lid, choose a shorter filter, like this one**
Green Filter 2899
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-...gateway&sr=8-1

**If you want to retain the factory 3.5" turbo inlet pipe, choose a filter with 3.5" ID, like this one**
Green Filter 2896
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-...gateway&sr=8-1

For 4" intake parts (APR Turbo Inlet system), this is what you need:
www.siliconeintakes.com
10% discount code: "link987"

(1x) 4" 60 degree silicone elbow
(1x) 4" straight silicone hump hose
(2x) 4" stainless steel coupler
(2x) 4.25" worm gear hose clamps

For 3.5" intake parts (Factory turbo inlet), this is what you need:
(1x) 3.5" 60 degree silicone elbow
(2x) 3.5" stainless steel coupler
(2x) 3.75" worm gear hose clamps

***BONUS CONTENT*** 5" SETUP ***
If any of you are feeling froggy and want to take your 4" APR to the next level, try this, hehe

5” to 4” hump hose reducer (x1)
https://www.intakehoses.com/reducing...d-to-4-id.html

5” intake joiner (x2)
https://www.intakehoses.com/aluminum...-x-4-long.html

5” 90 degree elbow (x1) *you will need to cut to ~60 degrees*
https://www.intakehoses.com/rubber-e...e-no-ribs.html

AFe 5" #21-91062 filter (dual cone): https://afepower.com/afe-power-21-91...y-s-air-filter
or
KNN 5” #RU-3107HBK filter https://www.knfilters.com/ru-3107hbk...-on-air-filter (only down side is, it's not dual cone)


For the recirculation valve, grab one of these breather filters:

K&N part #62-1370, which has 1" ID, 1.5" tall (comes grey / un-oiled or red / pre-oiled)
https://www.amazon.com/62-1370-Vent-.../dp/B00029WXTA

K&N part #62-1420, which has 1" ID, 2.25" tall (comes grey / un-oiled)
https://www.amazon.com/62-1420-Vent-...omotive&sr=1-1

S&B part #26-1370JR, which has 1" ID, 1.5" tall

Yes, it's big (TWSS)


Step 1: Remove lid from air intake ducting

Step 2: Drill 3/8" hole into hump hose


Step 3: Attach PCV hose and barb fitting


***Make sure barbed fitting is not covered by stainless steel joiner to ensure proper vacuum on this port!!***




Step 4: Work from APR pipe outward using water with a few drops of dawn soap to keep things lubricated for adjustment purposes. Loosely clamp everything in place until you reach desired fitment and orientation, then tighten everything down.

**Rememeber not to over tighten clamps to carbon fiber intake tube as you can crush it!!*




Step 4b: Install stainless steel coupler into filter and connect to 60 degree silicone elbow. Do not insert the coupler too far into the filter, as it will restrict airflow. Insert approximately 1" (the filter inlet flange depth):



Step 5: Use black piece of door edge guard or rubber to protect air filter where it touches air intake ducting. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BW...b_b_asin_title



Step 6: Install breather filter on recirculation valve:


Step 7: Relocate trans fluid vent to existing tab:




That's it!

Finished product:


Confirmed filter does not touch hood when closed!




Videos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wnountBSrKvX9YKo9

[S3DUDE]

Looks pretty nice to me, big fat pipe, big fat filter. Thanks for sharing. ETS also will build a custom elbow or custom hose, you just have to send them the dimensions. The little tiny rubber guard to protect the filter can also be replaced with the door guards that you put on the edge of the door sill. They sell them cheap on 15ft rolls.

[ItsRainingLead]

Does it feel like it makes a difference over the stock box with a panel?

[jd_rs3]

Yes! When I drove the car last night for about 20 mins, I lit up the tires at launch like never before. My butt Dyno is not calibrated but I can positively say this intake, combined with pendulum support on a stage 2 e85 car made a considerable difference.

That being said, I don't have a comparison between the APR inlet system with stock air box vs APR inlet system with my diy elbow. Some guys have seen 25rwhp on back to back Dyno pulls by just cutting the stock airbox. I guess we'll see what APR power increase claims are with their open filter design and can safely assume this system makes very close if not the same increase as that.

[tateltot]

Stuff.

Great write up. What JD elbow are you referring to?

Edit: Oh, your custom solution. Haha.

[jd_rs3]

Great write up. What JD elbow are you referring to?

Lol. Distracted this morning. Typo .. will fix

[jd_rs3]

Reference to APR open system.

https://youtu.be/HspYoAfrt5s



No air ducting at all with their system, not even bottom portion. Not sure why.

[S3DUDE]

jd_rs3,

I recently took the car to the dragstrip and removed the oem filter panel and it made no difference which tells me that the biggest restriction is perhaps the shape of the air box itself. I believe that going open filter will benefit the flow. I just don't know why APR hasn't released their open filter cone yet, I mean, they already made the difficult part which is the piping, all you have to do now is slap a big cone filtered a cheap plastic square box to isolate the engine bay heat.

[jd_rs3]

jd_rs3,

I recently took the car to the dragstrip and removed the oem filter panel and it made no difference which tells me that the biggest restriction is perhaps the shape of the air box itself. I believe that going open filter will benefit the flow. I just don't know why APR hasn't released their open filter cone yet, I mean, they already made the difficult part which is the piping, all you have to do now is slap a big cone filtered a cheap plastic square box to isolate the engine bay heat.

Interesting! I will eventually do some Dyno pulls but not sure how much difference it will make. Still, the fact the stock air box has a vacuum actuated flap in it to increase flow with air from the engine bay tells me that it has to be at least in certain situations, ie, heavy load, somewhat of a restriction.

[jl87]

All the photos of the prototypes don't have any shielding from heat nor ducting from the front, it's just a massive cone filter in the OE box location. Will be interesting to see if they've added either of these for the production model.

[ChanceA4Parks]

I just received the aluminum to build something like this for a 2.7t. Nice build

[hilltop804]

Thanks for posting this! I ordered some stuff to try my own diy.

How secure is the PCV with just the barb fitting? That's the only thing that I'm iffy on.

[jd_rs3]

Thanks for posting this! I ordered some stuff to try my own diy.

How secure is the PCV with just the barb fitting? That's the only thing that I'm iffy on.

Secure. Trick is to make sure hole is not too big!

[tateltot]

All the photos of the prototypes don't have any shielding from heat nor ducting from the front, it's just a massive cone filter in the OE box location. Will be interesting to see if they've added either of these for the production model.

The general belief is that the IC cools down the air anyway, though you would probably get a bit more hot air sitting in traffic without ducting. Not sure we’ll have conclusive results that ducting = power.

[sleeperwagon]

didnt need any elbow tube. just another option for everyone. didnt need anything but the cone and a ziptie. i kept the bottom portion of the orginial airbox in thinking it draws outside air???? no clue. plus i wanted the air filter to sit on something i could ziptie it to. ECS tuning air filter btw20190517_182007.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

[OE2]

link to ECS filter?

[tateltot]

didnt need any elbow tube. just another option for everyone. didnt need anything but the cone and a ziptie. i kept the bottom portion of the orginial airbox in thinking it draws outside air???? no clue. plus i wanted the air filter to sit on something i could ziptie it to. ECS tuning air filter btw20190517_182007.jpeg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Audizine mobile app

Haha. If it works, it's not dumb.

[J_3_f_f]

Good job OP. any clip on sound? How do you like it so far?

My hunch is APR’s design probably will look very similar to yours but you did at the fraction of the cost. Haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jd_rs3]

Good job OP. any clip on sound? How do you like it so far?

My hunch is APR’s design probably will look very similar to yours but you did at the fraction of the cost. Haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes here is a link to videos. Should give you a good idea on sound. I love it

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wnountBSrKvX9YKo9

[DodgyRS3]

One of my friends made this for me

[jd_rs3]

One of my friends made this for me

That's pretty cool! You might consider a dual cone filter so that air will go right into the intake tract. How tall is the filter you are using?

Here's a grey, dual cone filter with a 3.5" ID : https://greenfilter.com/store/2896 It is 6.5" tall, including flange.\

If you prefer green: https://greenfilter.com/store/2459

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Filter-...gateway&sr=8-1

green filter dual cone.jpg

[tateltot]

Good job OP. any clip on sound? How do you like it so far?

My hunch is APR’s design probably will look very similar to yours but you did at the fraction of the cost. Haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Likely with a carbon elbow, I suspect.

- - - Updated - - -

Reference to APR open system.

https://youtu.be/HspYoAfrt5s



No air ducting at all with their system, not even bottom portion. Not sure why.

Maybe it just doesn't make a difference at speed with the turbo sucking in its own air?

[jl87]

FB Post Here "Coming Soon"

[jd_rs3]

That's at least a 5" ID filter! Big honker! Curious to know the cost and if there is any benefit over what I've already done.

I updated the first post to include:

-4" ID filter options for those wanting to retain factory air ducting *lid*
-3.5" ID filter options for those wanting to retain factory turbo inlet piping
-3.5" parts list for those wanting to retain factory turbo inlet piping
-Info and purchasing links to all filters mentioned

[jd_rs3]

If any of you are feeling froggy and want to take your 4" APR to the next level, try this, hehe

5” to 4” hump hose reducer (x1)
https://www.intakehoses.com/reducing...d-to-4-id.html

5” intake joiner (x2)
https://www.intakehoses.com/aluminum...-x-4-long.html

5” 90 degree elbow (x1) *you will need to cut to ~60 degrees*
https://www.intakehoses.com/rubber-e...e-no-ribs.html

AFe 5" #21-91062 filter (dual cone): https://afepower.com/afe-power-21-91...y-s-air-filter
or
KNN 5” #RU-3107HBK filter https://www.knfilters.com/search/pro...rod=RU-3107HBK (only down side is, it's not dual cone)

[myrder]

Props man. This forum needs more DIYs

[tateltot]

That's at least a 5" ID filter! Big honker! Curious to know the cost and if there is any benefit over what I've already done.

I updated the first post to include:

-4" ID filter options for those wanting to retain factory air ducting *lid*
-3.5" ID filter options for those wanting to retain factory turbo inlet piping
-3.5" parts list for those wanting to retain factory turbo inlet piping
-Info and purchasing links to all filters mentioned

Agreed. We need a dyno battle! :)

[jd_rs3]

Who's going to try the 5" DIY?

How much do we anticipate the APR system costing? I think the 4" elbow/filter setup I posted is about $150

[jl87]

Hard to say on cost. The rear APR 4" CF tube is ~250, and an APR filter for a B8.5 S4 (similar cone filter, though probably smaller) is $75. That leaves the CF elbow and hardware for install.
Your setup will be significantly cheaper and will probably perform similarly I would think.

[MichiganRS3]

I suspect the APR part to be $449-499.

[Audi TTRS]

I suspect the APR part to be $449-499.

I'm thinking 599-799. Hoping for way less though.

2018 TTRS stock

[MichiganRS3]

I'm thinking 599-799. Hoping for way less though.

2018 TTRS stock

https://www.facebook.com/APRMotorspo...type=3&sfns=mo

IMG_1414.JPG

60% of $900 is $540
So maybe $499-$549

[s316]

I suspect the APR part to be $449-499.

no way it should cost ~300$

[MichiganRS3]

no way it should cost ~300$

I don’t disagree that’s what it SHOULD cost.

Back on topic:
The DIY ones are usually OK. I always used thin wall aluminum tubing from Woolf Aircraft bent to the correct angle when I was making them for Grand Prix GTP’s back in the day. I’d polish them and they looked pretty nice. Black powder coating was about $50.

Example of the tube and bend
https://catalog.woolfaircraft.com/it...5-450-045-6061

[myrder]

I like the marketing, show an inlet and tube that's 749$ plus your new part. Someone comments $900 and you say 60% cheaper, not specifying just cone and little elbow.

So, $1200+ for their set up, which at least includes an inlet, vs other full intake options.

[jd_rs3]

My guess

$750 for turbo inlet system
"60% less than 900" for the filter elbow $360

Total $750+$360 = $1,110

[myrder]

[QUOTE=jd_rs3;13692990]$750 for turbo inlet system
"60% less than 900" for the filter elbow $360

ahhh right math got switch so the 540 was the 60% to be removed. It's early here. Haha.

I mean... $360 area sounds... fair for their R&D and it being carbon. Definitely the most attractive price for the entire intake tract to the turbo.

[jd_rs3]

$360 is not unreasonable for carbon and a nice looking overall system. Plus, judging by the pics it looks like this includes a mount below the filter portion and of course provisions for PCV and Recirc valve hoses. For $1100 including turbo inlet, I am cool with it.

[jl87]

I like the marketing, show an inlet and tube that's 749$ plus your new part. Someone comments $900 and you say 60% cheaper, not specifying just cone and little elbow.

So, $1200+ for their set up, which at least includes an inlet, vs other full intake options.

Was thinking this too. $250 for the main rear 4" CF section and then ~$360 for a tiny CF elbow and filter, hardware,etc?

[tateltot]

So JD, when does the JD-branded billet mounting bracket come out? ;)