How many miles on your 3.0 b6's

[WerkzINC]

Bought my car from original owner always garaged at 206k for $1800. just did all arms.new suspension and timing belt..usp lip etc.. oh new paint job cus someone had fun with a key around the car week after buying it. Hit 223k and still runs drives and looks sorta newish.. went through a quart after 6k miles not too bad. all together have probably 6,000 into the car which is insane I didn't think it would add up so quickly and I'm so scared with this mileage that I'm an idiot for doing all this. I love the car but thinking about buying something else as a daily just to drive this on weekends. maybe it won't die .with such high mileage it scares me every time I start it LOL I think I have OCD over this car. I don't think I've seen many people with higher mileage on the 3.0 I know I checked the cam lobes and they still look great thank God since it's a 2002. I work my ass of for 550 a week so it took every penny after rent and bills to get my addiction/hobby where it is lol ,which means I can't afford big repairs all the time I diy alot but still .Want to hear some stories and how you got this far..
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[imnuts]

I just passed 260k last week. Probably going to be doing timing belt #3 next year.

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[ZERO FRAME GRAB]

Little over 100K on the second motor, first one decided to shit the bed with only 90K on it.

[2004a4b630QT]

108K on original motor and Tip trans. Original owner. If I didn't learn to do the work myself it would have all ended before 100K when I found my timing belt was hanging on by fibers and shops in my area were quoting up to and over 3k. Nearly every repair is harder on the 3.0 due to limited space. If you aren't willing and able to do the work yourself or have a friend that won't rip you off, this car might end up haunting your dreams.

[WerkzINC]

I hope I make it untill 260k that would be almost 3 yearss from now lol. And I think I have worked on this car every weekend last 2 months doing control arms, wheel bearings and every axle. Parts are pretty cheap.. working on this car every weekend does haunt my dreams LOL it's fun and worth it in the end cuz I love this car more than anything. But it's expected with a high-mileage car

[Tahoe3.0]

110k

[Alwaysworri3d]

Just rolled over 318k. She burns some oil and definitely far from perfect condition, but still running strong.

[Shuga]

Just rolled over 318k. She burns some oil and definitely far from perfect condition, but still running strong.

318K??? that’s crazy


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[road_tripper]

I'm at 298K miles... original clutch. Still drives nice, but the body is beat. I don't know what I'll buy to replace it when it finally goes... manual transmissions seem to be not available any more in any vehicle that can also tow.

I wish I had plunked down $2K for S4 seats 10 years ago!

[Nollywood]

My 2 previous cars:

A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro Sport.
Transmission: 6 speed manual.
Model year: 2003.
Last recorded mileage: 154,000 miles.

A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro Sport.
Transmission: 5 speed Tip.
Model year: 2001.
Last recorded mileage: 357,000 miles.

[iadubber]

97K hoping to run it to at least 250-300k.

[Turbo510]

211K on this one. Just had the tint redone - went from way too dark to 55% light, and glad I did.

[SJorge3442]

Damn. Makes me feel young with only 161k on my 3.0. When taken care of, these motors seem to be pretty reliable. I'm hoping to at least make it to 200K with timing belt #2 coming next fall.

[Turbo510]

My '05's engine is very reliable so-far. All of the problems have been other things; fuel pump, wheel bearings and control arms, radiator, steering rack, and PS pump. It gets one synthetic oil change ever 10K miles, consuming a couple of quarts in between. The engine itself runs smoothly and quietly. The only upgrade is an OE-appearing touchscreen/Bluetooth/Navigation stereo, that I highly recommend over the original AM-FM cassette CD changer.

[Ted222]

OK mine has just hit the 300,000KM mark and I can tell you a few things..
It also has a ZF 5 speed triptronic transmission which I just finished rebuilding...
Let me just tell you about the inner conditions of these transmissions at higher mileage..
Hope your taking care of them like your engines....
Regular oil changes in the transmission will be your saving grace...
At this stage of the game, your clutch packs are worn down and starting to slip which in turn burns the clutch assembly and goes down hill from here...
You can't expect sealings to last forever especially been threw so many heat cycles ,things get brittle and crack which leaks start to appear..
Theres alot of contamination in the transmission valve manifold, tiny shinny bits floating around due to all the shift spools moving around as it functions...
All that metal cant go anywhere but hopefully get stuck in the filtering element..
It's all about cleaniness !!!! CHANGE YOUR OIL SOONER THAN LATER !!!!
AND for GOD's sake use the proper ZF approved oil... (Nothing but)
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[2004a4b630QT]

OK mine has just hit the 300,000KM mark and I can tell you a few things..
It also has a ZF 5 speed triptronic transmission which I just finished rebuilding...
Let me just tell you about the inner conditions of these transmissions at higher mileage..
Hope your taking care of them like your engines....
Regular oil changes in the transmission will be your saving grace...
At this stage of the game, your clutch packs are worn down and starting to slip which in turn burns the clutch assembly and goes down hill from here...
You can't expect sealings to last forever especially been threw so many heat cycles ,things get brittle and crack which leaks start to appear..
Theres alot of contamination in the transmission valve manifold, tiny shinny bits floating around due to all the shift spools moving around as it functions...
All that metal cant go anywhere but hopefully get stuck in the filtering element..
It's all about cleaniness !!!! CHANGE YOUR OIL SOONER THAN LATER !!!!
AND for GOD's sake use the proper ZF approved oil... (Nothing but)

Nice work. Did you do any upgrades in terms of the clutch packs and solenoids? I've been reading about making these transmissions "bullet proof" through use or carbon fiber packs and upgraded solenoids, but don't know much about it. Also, did you replace the torque converter of was yours still good?
Lastly, did you do any work on the front diff? Replace bearings, etc. Condition of pinion and ring gear, etc.
I'm just under 175000KM and considering whether to rebuild or swap to a manual.

[yanni6556]

I have 214k on my 02 3.0.

Had the tip rebuilt at 180k cause the torque convertor went.

Done almost everything needs doing, just realised it had a blocked PCV hose for around 40 thousand ks as a previous mechanic or owner put a tube in it which basically meant no PCV air was going to the top side of the intake manifold not sure if this is good or bad but if my motor isnt blown then your ones got plenty of life in it.

Next jobs are engine mounts, some diff mounts and all the control arms most likely oh and the valve covers and cleaning a crank angle sensor hahaa

List goes on but i like your wheels man.

[2004a4b630QT]

I have 214k on my 02 3.0.

Had the tip rebuilt at 180k cause the torque convertor went.

Done almost everything needs doing, just realised it had a blocked PCV hose for around 40 thousand ks as a previous mechanic or owner put a tube in it which basically meant no PCV air was going to the top side of the intake manifold not sure if this is good or bad but if my motor isnt blown then your ones got plenty of life in it.

Next jobs are engine mounts, some diff mounts and all the control arms most likely oh and the valve covers and cleaning a crank angle sensor hahaa

List goes on but i like your wheels man.

PCV problems won't kill your engine, but they could build up pressure and cause your valve covers to leak. There's a DIY on replacing the plastic crap with heater hose and brass elbow joints that works well. You can also carefully pry open the PCV pancake valve and clean it out. Or better yet, replace it.

[Tahoe3.0]

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off topic by miles and miles, but I was wondering if you had installed your new downpipes yet. I am dying to know what they sound like with the stock catback and would love a soundbyte/video if you ever get the chance

[2004a4b630QT]

off topic by miles and miles, but I was wondering if you had installed your new downpipes yet. I am dying to know what they sound like with the stock catback and would love a soundbyte/video if you ever get the chance

I should be finished this weekend. i've been moving at a snail's pace plus I had other work with the center diff/stripped bolts on the driveshaft and having to reboot, repack the driveshaft cv, etc. Just got the subframe bolted back up earlier.
The pipes are on though, and as I'd hoped you can pretty much access everything from the wheel well now. I can get to both o2 sensors this way too, so I won't suffer another nightmare if I have to take them off again, especially since I used the old sensors for now.

[shurur9]

Closing in on 230k...100k of it are mine.

[Turbo510]

CHANGE YOUR OIL SOONER THAN LATER !!!!
AND for GOD's sake use the proper ZF approved oil... (Nothing but)

I've always filled my 3.0's ZF 5HP19 trans (and a B5 A4 and B5 Passat before that) with Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF, with no clutch wear or shudder issues. It's been 50K miles since the last change, so due. My '05 A4 is at 213,000 miles (340K km) with no trans problems. By the way, that assembled unit looks really nice; is that painted or some other surface treatment? Also, a Kawasaki in the garage is always a good sign.

[Ted222]

WOW,
First off, I only payed $250 CDN for this "Audi" and I was really on the fence about wanting to own such a vehicle. I've done alots of research before buying it and if it had a CVT transmission I was gunna turn the other way... In my line of work I deal alot with ZF transmission and drivetrain products, let me tell you their products are well designed and built..
But of coarse like everything else their difficult to work on, you need specialized tooling (which you can't buy)..
I replaced all friction and steel plates, all sealing orings, bearings, gaskets with all ZF original parts..
And yes the Torque converter was replaced for good measure.. (didn't want that dreaded code dealing with that seal inside it, for lock-up)
All the aluminum parts were washed in a hot water parts washer some sand blasted and primed (no sandblasting inside)
Both the front and rear diff's were dismantled, inspected and new bearings and seals installed...
The front diff is real special ....It;s housed inside the transmission and to remove the pinion from it will be your worst nightmare.. Relacing that seal took alot of patience and special tooling..
The rear diff is like any other 'open' diff , bearings and seals replaced and set back up....
All ring and pinions after 300,000 kms look fine...The only thing I found was the preload on the pinion bearins were out (of coarse)
The transmission was functional when I bought the car, but wanted to go thew it to see what shape it was in.. I'm sure the TC is fine but with that many km's on it didnt want to risk it...
I also rebuilt the 3.0L engine in this vehicle... Looking back at it all and if someone would ask me about "Audi" products .......All I would say would be Run.....Run very fast away!!!
These cars are brutal to work on and I can see why the Audi stealships can charge soooo much ...


...and yes thats a Ninja 12R and Bmw 1150R (for times when you need to relieve stress)

[Turbo510]

I also rebuilt the 3.0L engine in this vehicle... Looking back at it all and if someone would ask me about "Audi" products .......All I would say would be Run.....Run very fast away!!! These cars are brutal to work on and I can see why the Audi stealships can charge soooo much ...

Evidently you have no problem diving right into rebuilding the 3.0 engine or the ZF transmission, which probably less than one in one-million owners would do. But brutal to work on...how so? (besides the engine and trans rebuild). From my experience of owning two A4s, a B5 2.8 and my 3.0 B6, they are not at all bad. I've only had two jobs that were tedious: changing the PS rack, and changing the plastic coolant manifold. Other than that, pretty easy.