Should I repair this fender or replace?

[CFella]

I purchased this Audi from Copart with a Salvage title yesterday for $500 plus fees. Do you think it was a good deal?

Wondering if i should replace the fender or try to repair it? Do you think it is past repair?

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[2004a4b630QT]

Replace. It'll take a lot of labor and considerable body filler plus matching paint. You can probably find one in a yard in matching color and even a new one with e-coat primer can be had relatively cheap but will also need paint.

Save the panel beating for when your quarters take a hit.

[APC123]

Keep that car alive

[Gosser]

How many miles on it? Auto or manual? Has CVT wheels, but looks like a quattro badge in the grille.

Replace the fender, they can be had cheap on rockauto for 42CAD which is like 9 dollars US, to your door next days(at least mine was). Then shoot it with paint.

Looks clean otherwise.

[customa4]

After dealing with aftermarket parts myself, I'd be more inclined to find an OEM part. You can get lucky and find one paint matched.

[Gosser]

I should have mentioned that aftermarket fenders are no where near OEM quality. Way flimsier, they are hard to align properly, but for a 500 dollar car... I've been waiting to find a clean silver OEM driver side fender for the last 2 years. And since its only for my winter beater, I've been considering the aftermarket route again.

[CFella]

How many miles on it? Auto or manual? Has CVT wheels, but looks like a quattro badge in the grille.

It’s for got 138,000 but I pulled the car fax and it was leased for 100k miles with all maintenance done by dealership until 100miles and 2014. Car was resold by dealership in 2015 and they continued maintence.
It’s auto 1.8T. Also, holy shit these cupholders suck. Going to do the swap to the B7 console.

- - - Updated - - -

Going to go to junkyard and pull a fender. I think I can get the same color.

[CFella]

Will a fender from a wagon work? I found the same color as mine at a junkyard close by.
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/loca...r-232/recents/

[customa4]

Will a fender from a wagon work? I found the same color as mine at a junkyard close by.
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/loca...r-232/recents/

Yes. Make sure the paint codes match.

[CFella]

Yes. Make sure the paint codes match.

How do I check to make sure they match?

[Gosser]

The sedans have their Production(PR) codes in the spare wheel well, yours looks like LY7W.

Wagons have their PR codes under the rear seat, well my B7 did at least. Simply make sure they have the same. But light silver is pretty easy to eye ball. B7 fenders will not fit the B6, well they can be made to fit. But body lines do not match and one is longer at the bumper. It'll take some cutting and welding to get a b7 fender to fit a B6, and the body line/seam will be off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kseO7QUOmtU

[CFella]

Wagons have their PR codes under the rear seat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kseO7QUOmtU

Are the rear seats easy to flip up to see the code?

[fR3ZNO]

Yeah, just need to pull up (hard) on the front edge to pop it out of the clips.

[Spike00513]

I purchased this Audi from Copart with a Salvage title yesterday for $500 plus fees. Do you think it was a good deal?

Wondering if i should replace the fender or try to repair it? Do you think it is past repair?

side.jpgfront.jpg

That cheap for something with just a bad fender. I'm impressed. I wonder how insurance determined the status as Total Loss.
Because practically speaking, if nothing else is damaged, fixing such a thing is a matter of finding a suitable replacement fender and bolting it on. Which can be purchased for as little as $50 at a junkyard.

It’s for got 138,000 but I pulled the car fax and it was leased for 100k miles with all maintenance done by dealership until 100miles and 2014. Car was resold by dealership in 2015 and they continued maintence.
It’s auto 1.8T. Also, holy shit these cupholders suck. Going to do the swap to the B7 console.

- - - Updated - - -

Going to go to junkyard and pull a fender. I think I can get the same color.

You might find a B7 center console at a junkyard for around $45.

The sedans have their Production(PR) codes in the spare wheel well, yours looks like LY7W.

Wagons have their PR codes under the rear seat, well my B7 did at least. Simply make sure they have the same. But light silver is pretty easy to eye ball. B7 fenders will not fit the B6, well they can be made to fit. But body lines do not match and one is longer at the bumper. It'll take some cutting and welding to get a b7 fender to fit a B6, and the body line/seam will be off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kseO7QUOmtU

Yes. Sedan code in trunk well. Avant codes are under backseat. If the sticker hasn't fallen off.

Yes. Make sure the paint codes match.

Correct. Certain Audi paint colors have different shades/codes that are similar but visibly different after install.
So it's a good idea to make sure the paint is an exact match regarding the (4?) digit code.

It’s for got 138,000 but I pulled the car fax and it was leased for 100k miles with all maintenance done by dealership until 100miles and 2014. Car was resold by dealership in 2015 and they continued maintence.
It’s auto 1.8T. Also, holy shit these cupholders suck. Going to do the swap to the B7 console.

- - - Updated - - -

Going to go to junkyard and pull a fender. I think I can get the same color.

I didn't know you could lease a car for 100k. I don't get why they didn't just buy it and make regular payments.

Replace. It'll take a lot of labor and considerable body filler plus matching paint. You can probably find one in a yard in matching color and even a new one with e-coat primer can be had relatively cheap but will also need paint.

Save the panel beating for when your quarters take a hit.

Anyone know a cheap way to fix Fucked Rear Quarter Panels?
Hammers don't seem to work well on the strong steel; I hear a slow puller is the better tool.
But I mean more if it's worth doing a ghetto fix. Cutting the panels off a junk car with a sawzall and welding them on.
IDK what body shops charge private party to do that professionally (vs. what they charge insurance which is probably higher)

Some guy put widebody RS4 fenders on his B7 avant but idk what that cost.

[2004a4b630QT]

"Anyone know a cheap way to fix Fucked Rear Quarter Panels?"

I haven't done it yet but assume just heat the metal and work with with hammer and dolly, then filler, build primer, base, and clear. If you have no paint damage you could try a glue pull and pushing from behind first. Mine is creased and finally starting to rust so it's hammer time for me. It's near the wheel well at the bottom so if I wanted a no bondo fix, I could maybe get a donor quarter, and cut/weld in about 6x8 inch piece.

I almost forgot I improved the dent a little a couple years ago heating it, and using a 2 feet long needle nose angled pliers from the back leveraged against the tire. I wanted verify I could move metal before investing in any dent repair tools. Then mechanical repairs came up and I haven't been back to it since.

[CFella]

So I just got the car towed from Copart, and took it off the tow truck. Car started right up without a jump, no check engine lights or ABS lights on. But it looks like the accident caused one of the hoses on the power steering reservoir to come loose. There is no power steering at all. Going to see if i can just reconnect the hose later when i get home from work. Other then that, I am pretty happy with the purchase. There is also a cracked windshield that i didn't see in the photos so thats probably like another $150 or so i would guess.

I am still not certain I am going to replace the fender, I may just use the heat gun and push the dent out and reattach the bumper. The reason for this is because I will need to get a salvage car inspection so i can get a rebuildable title. I will need to provide receipts with VIN numbers of the cars I took the parts from. I don't think my Pick and Pull junkyard will have the VIN number on the receipt. So my idea is to just push out the fender and leave it looking the way it is. I will just tell them I didn't actually buy a different fender. Not sure if this is the best way to do it.....first time fixing a salvage car. If anyone else has done it and has some advice...please let me know if you think this is a good idea.

[Spike00513]

So I just got the car towed from Copart, and took it off the tow truck. Car started right up without a jump, no check engine lights or ABS lights on. But it looks like the accident caused one of the hoses on the power steering reservoir to come loose. There is no power steering at all. Going to see if i can just reconnect the hose later when i get home from work. Other then that, I am pretty happy with the purchase. There is also a cracked windshield that i didn't see in the photos so thats probably like another $150 or so i would guess.

I am still not certain I am going to replace the fender, I may just use the heat gun and push the dent out and reattach the bumper. The reason for this is because I will need to get a salvage car inspection so i can get a rebuildable title. I will need to provide receipts with VIN numbers of the cars I took the parts from. I don't think my Pick and Pull junkyard will have the VIN number on the receipt. So my idea is to just push out the fender and leave it looking the way it is. I will just tell them I didn't actually buy a different fender. Not sure if this is the best way to do it.....first time fixing a salvage car. If anyone else has done it and has some advice...please let me know if you think this is a good idea.

The power steering fluid reservoir is plastic and probably old and dry. So hopefully it didn't disconnect by breaking one of the nipples at the bottom. Because otherwise the hoses are probably held on with clamps and I feel like an accident shock is more likely to break a plastic nipple, than to loosen a tight hose clamp on a rubber hose.

IDK which windshield glass source is best; as for shops, I hear those with buildings are better than mobile ones, and that good ones use a better quality glue/sealant.
But auction car or not, any B6 with these miles and years age is probably likely to have windshield damage anyway. Whether it be peppering that shows up when light hits it, some chips, etc.

Interesting info. My B6 just became salvage but it is still drive-able so I've been wondering if it's possible to make road legal and how.
So you saying that an inspection pass can earn a car a rebuildable title is good news.
Maybe in the eyes of insurance for an old car like this, their "it's totaled" thing just means repair price would exceed current market value of the car, and not necessarily "non-rebuildable"
ie *some* limited damage, vs. the car ripped in half or wrapped around a tree - even though both would still technically be "totaled"

I didn't know about the donor VIN requirement. I wonder if the junkyard can add that to the receipt. Or if pictures are good enough.
What if you find other sources for a fender that *do* provide VIN but might not be lucky enough to find the same color? If that part is absolutely needed to get the title, I wonder if it would work to get a close match painting it yourself just to pass inspection.
IDK if their reasoning behind that is to have intact parts ready to function as a crumple zone in the event of a future collision, to absorb the impact.

[CFella]

Interesting info. My B6 just became salvage but it is still drive-able so I've been wondering if it's possible to make road legal and how.
So you saying that an inspection pass can earn a car a rebuildable title is good news.
Maybe in the eyes of insurance for an old car like this, their "it's totaled" thing just means repair price would exceed current market value of the car, and not necessarily "non-rebuildable"
ie *some* limited damage, vs. the car ripped in half or wrapped around a tree - even though both would still technically be "totaled"

I didn't know about the donor VIN requirement. I wonder if the junkyard can add that to the receipt. Or if pictures are good enough.
What if you find other sources for a fender that *do* provide VIN but might not be lucky enough to find the same color? If that part is absolutely needed to get the title, I wonder if it would work to get a close match painting it yourself just to pass inspection.
IDK if their reasoning behind that is to have intact parts ready to function as a crumple zone in the event of a future collision, to absorb the impact.

What state are you in? Each state has their own requirements for getting a rebuilt title. Here in Colorado, I have to fix the car and keep all the receipts for parts. I can't use a site like Ebay for the big parts because they will check the VIN #. I also have to have the words "Rebuild from Salvage" stamped on the driver side door pillar. I can literally stamp the words myself. After I fix it and stamp those words, I have to schedule an inspection which is done by a police officer I think. After he signs off that the car is rebuilt and it all checks out, I think I should get the rebuilt title that day. It's all new to me too. Just wondering, how did your car become salvage? Was it in an accident? Did you go through your insurance company?

[CFella]

The power steering fluid reservoir is plastic and probably old and dry. So hopefully it didn't disconnect by breaking one of the nipples at the bottom. Because otherwise the hoses are probably held on with clamps and I feel like an accident shock is more likely to break a plastic nipple, than to loosen a tight hose clamp on a rubber hose.

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yup...i think you're right

[Spike00513]

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yup...i think you're right

Hopefully the steering system wasn't starved. I hear doing this (with air in it) is a way to at least kill the pump.

[CFella]

I hear doing this (with air in it) is a way to at least kill the pump.

Doing what with air in it?

[2004a4b630QT]

Doing what with air in it?

Running the pump for any length of time is a death sentence for the part. It will take some time, but it's more a less inevitable. Luckily the pumps are relatively cheap.
The pump starves as soon as air enters or fluid level drops. For me it was a leak in the cooler line and I didn't understand and thought it was oil and then ended up driving it dry.

[Gin+]

What state are you in? Each state has their own requirements for getting a rebuilt title. Here in Colorado, I have to fix the car and keep all the receipts for parts. I can't use a site like Ebay for the big parts because they will check the VIN #. I also have to have the words "Rebuild from Salvage" stamped on the driver side door pillar. I can literally stamp the words myself. After I fix it and stamp those words, I have to schedule an inspection which is done by a police officer I think. After he signs off that the car is rebuilt and it all checks out, I think I should get the rebuilt title that day. It's all new to me too. Just wondering, how did your car become salvage? Was it in an accident? Did you go through your insurance company?

Same in NY. Salvage inspection adds another $200+ to the fees category in purchasing a salvage car.

[CFella]

Same in NY. Salvage inspection adds another $200+ to the fees category in purchasing a salvage car.

I don’t think my salvage inspection costs that much . I think we only have a $20 fee. We can also drive the car to the inspection place. Not sure what part of NY you are in, but in NYC you would have to have it towed to inspection I think so that’s another cost. I was looking at salvage cars for my dad in NY

[CFella]

Running the pump for any length of time is a death sentence for the part. It will take some time, but it's more a less inevitable. Luckily the pumps are relatively cheap.
The pump starves as soon as air enters or fluid level drops. For me it was a leak in the cooler line and I didn't understand and thought it was oil and then ended up driving it dry.

Well it looks like it broke from accident. Car has been sitting at salvage yard for a month. I only ran the car for about 10 minutes yesterday. Going to fix it today, hopefully pumps good.

[2004a4b630QT]

Well it looks like it broke from accident. Car has been sitting at salvage yard for a month. I only ran the car for about 10 minutes yesterday. Going to fix it today, hopefully pumps good.

It should be, at least for long enough to decide if you are keeping the car, etc. Mine was on death row for 2 years. If you really want to play it safe, remove the pump, and pour some fluid into the inlet port and turn the pump by hand to circulate fluid till it comes out the pressure hole. Then install. Then fill res, start for 2 seconds (don't turn wheel), stop, add fluid, repeat. Once the fluid level is stabilized. Run for 2 minutes (still no wheel turning). Then shut off and do the bleed procedure. This will ensure you don't do any more damage. This is the procedure for a new pump and since yours has long since dried out, it's a similar situation.

[CFella]

It should be, at least for long enough to decide if you are keeping the car, etc. Mine was on death row for 2 years. If you really want to play it safe, remove the pump, and pour some fluid into the inlet port and turn the pump by hand to circulate fluid till it comes out the pressure hole. Then install. Then fill res, start for 2 seconds (don't turn wheel), stop, add fluid, repeat. Once the fluid level is stabilized. Run for 2 minutes (still no wheel turning). Then shut off and do the bleed procedure. This will ensure you don't do any more damage. This is the procedure for a new pump and since yours has long since dried out, it's a similar situation.

Not really looking to remove the pump. I think I’m just going to replace the reservoir and fill with fluid. Haven’t really looked into removing the pump so not sure how hard it is.

[CFella]

I also don’t think it completely dried out. There was fluid coming out of the disconnected hose when it was running yesterday.

[CFella]

https://www.carparts.com/details/Aud...owfitment=true

The only thing I would need to do to this fender is paint it and clear coat it right? It’s already primed I think

[2004a4b630QT]

Not really looking to remove the pump. I think I’m just going to replace the reservoir and fill with fluid. Haven’t really looked into removing the pump so not sure how hard it is.

It's one of the few very easy repairs. The only "skill" needed is to be able to get your serpentine belt off and on without putting it in service position. I was worried this would trip me up when I swapped my pump back in March. It's tricky but doable, and it's a good thing to learn so you can do a roadside belt replacement if needed or a bad A/C compressor bypass using short belt.

It took me about 3 lazy hours to do it. By comparison, most first time repairs I've done take me days or even weeks in some cases (like right now I've been on jack stands 2 full weeks for downpipes and center diff).

[Dr.B6Banter]

they can be had cheap on rockauto for 42CAD which is like 9 dollars US

Sad but true

Yeah my passenger's side fender is one of the few places on the car thats got rust. I've been keeping an eye on the pick and pulls on the off chance that a Dolphin grey b6 a4 that got rear ended wound up in the lot to no luck... Might just go the rockauto route and figure out some way of paint matching it along with the lower plastic trim.

[CFella]

Luckily, power steering pump ending up being good. Power steering works great again. However, I do have a large puddle on the floor of my garage from an apparent washer fluid leak....guess the bottle is cracked.

[CFella]

so i ended up getting lucky. I have 6 Pull your own part junkyards in my area. I finally found a silver A4 fender (UNDAMAGED) at the last one. While I was attemping to remove it, I stripped 2 of the screws. One of the stripped screws was on the inside of the wheel well area near the drivers door. I stripped another one at the top near the headlight. It was a Sunday and it was about to rain, so I took a few other parts I needed from the car and went home all pissed off. I purchased a Dremel off amazon for $22 because I needed a way to get the stripped screw off. I was planning to go the next weekend and hoped nobody took if before I got there. Well......when I first saw the car at the junkyard, the entire front end was in tack, it was only in the yard for 7 days at that point. When I went back the next weekend, the entire front end was gone....except the fender was hanging off by the stripped screw. There is some damage from where the fender was hanging off and rubbing against the door (circled in red). Not sure if I am even going to bother fixing it....pretty happy with the result....
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[wafi ahmed]

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I got this for 80$ it’s in better shape than what’s on my car rn but it has some rust thinking about sanding it to bare metal than spray primer


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[wafi ahmed]

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[Dr.B6Banter]

Not ideal but definitely usable on the one condition that you sand it down to bare metal and prime and paint over the spots where it'srusty. That spot where it's rusty sees a lot of water and debris from the wheel so if you leave it like that it'll get worse in no time.